NewZed

You're actually pretty lucky that it's driveable. Bad things happen when these cars sit. There are two paths you could take - 1. Drive the piss out of it and see if things change. They do seem to like hard work. 2. Work your way through the Engine fuel chapter of the FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/), and/or the Electronic Fuel Injection Guide (http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html). Also, for some reason, many of the old EFI systems tend to run lean. The spitting and popping is typical. You could put a potentiometer on the coolant temperature circuit and dial in some extra fuel. The phone is going to be a problem for you though. Good luck.

One way to get close to zero is to set the camshaft sprocket notch on the groove on the compression stroke (lobes up). The damper pulley notch should be close to the zero line on the marker, visible for sure. If it's not, you might have damper problems. Also, if you get the marks all lined up, pop the distributor cap and make sure that you're rotor is pointing at the correct #1 plug wire, and that it's the one your light is on. Maybe you have some firing order weirdness.

Bad battery, dirty battery terminals, bad charger. Doesn't sound like a major problem. Are you connecting the charger to the proper terminals? Could be why you only get 12 on the voltmeter, it's not actually charging. The newer chargers can tell when they're connected backward and just won't do anything. And the Z battery cable colors are often backward. Check for the + and - signs on the battery. Clean the terminals. Make sure you have good battery cables.

You can get a digital thermometer with a small fast-acting probe for about $12 at Bed Bath and Beyond. Stick it in the coolant and see what it says. Overall, you're doing way too much guessing, with the temperature and the timing, and coil and the plugs (both of those guesses are way off).

These things are all separate from the engine control harness. You'll probably find that they work fine. The factory switches are a little bit different from many switches, for example the headlights are controlled by grounding through the dimmer switch. You'll run in to a mental rat's nest trying to redesign a new system. As noted, you'll need to understand before you replace anyway. Make what you have work before you start tearing things apart.

Define "doesn't want to start".

Read the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM. The different years of 280Z's control the fuel pump power in different ways, but none of them power the pump with just the key on. Engine running or Start only. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Congratulations on fixing it with no replies. I almost opened the thread but the title was so weird it looked like a potential quagmire.

From the better front picture that's obviously a Z transmission. Probably the stock 4 speed. No signs of V8 occupancy. Looks like the wiring harness is still intact, that might even be the stock external voltage regulator on the fender well.

He's not using a stock L28ET CAS he's modified with a later disc, I'm guessing, from what he wrote above. You mean the disc with the holes in it, right? There are a variety out there with holes in different positions,from what I've been able to figure out. But if the one you have is that close, 12 degrees, you probably won't find better since you're off the stock application grid. You'll probably have to mess around with the drive gear as suggested or just modify the hold-down clamp like you described. I'm assuming you did something like cgsheen describes in Post #20, here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111877-north-idaho-eastern-washington-280z-l28et-wiring-gurus-or-anyone-willing-to-help-a-knucklehead-out/?do=findComment&comment=1052558

You popped the cap after it was hot? I can't do that on my car, coolant will overflow. And the temperature gauges and senders on these cars aren't known for accuracy. I would get an accurate measurement before going crazy. The steady temperature would be a good thing if it's in the right range.

I've read that Mopar engines will slide in pretty easily using the stock mounts, with no cutting or welding. SBC is most common but who knows. That transmission does look a little like a Z transmission though. Take a picture of the shifter through the hole in the top if it's exposed.

You mean the bolt, not the bushing...? On the noise, you've created a more solid path, aside from the tiny sliver of rubber at the small end of the arm, from the tires to the body, with the toe/camber adjuster. Delrin is pretty hard material. The on-off nature is probably just pavement quality. Bummer. On the other hand, if you were racing, it might be a fair indicator of available traction.

How is he going to get your engine?

What kind of noise are you hearing? Squeaking, banging, clunking? Are you sure that those are the cause? You did several things in one operation.

Have him install the head he offered on your short-block (edited - was long-block, got my shorts and longs mixed up) and get it running, with the condition that the camshaft has to survive and the engine has to run properly. That's what you're looking for and he's the pro. You'll avoid the typical expensive problems people run into when building their engines.

These two books are great resources. Not perfect, but they set the basic foundation that most people work from. http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407883467&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+modify+your+dat http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=pd_sim_b_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MSCXHH78BHW3Q5Q517A And this one is good for the car as a whole - http://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022/ref=pd_bxgy_b_text_z

I may be way off base here, but have you verified that the injectors are supposed to be open long enough to satisfy the air volume? In other words, does pulse width increase consistently as you pass through that lean zone. I'm not familiar with all of the MS variations but I copied a Megatune screenshot that shows what I mean. The pulse width should increase pretty closely with RPM, assuming a constant throttle setting. At least, it shouldn't stop increasing or go backward. Might be worth a look. I assume the Megatune data is what's supposed to happen, not what really happens. In other words, it's showing what MS is telling the injectors to do. I assume the flyback problem is the injectors not staying open as long as they're supposed to. There may even be a way to plot pulse width versus RPM, in a program like Excel, to look at the relationship.

If you can find a computer or a bigger phone the link below should help. And search for "colored wiring diagram" on classiczcars.com and you might get lucky. I know that there's a 1976 diagram over there. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Take them back off and make sure the light housings are seated properly on the surround. If I recall right there are three or four sizable Phillips head screws that connect the red light housings to the black surround. Maybe you forgot to tighten them. Also, notice how the big pictures from the internet show more clearly how things fit all the way around. Your closeup of a one area gap is not the same. Your picture doesn't really show much. Regardless, there's not much you can do until you take them back off.

Can't you just pull the seal from outside, like you would most other seals? Remove the crank damper, pry the seal out, press a new one in/on. Protect the edge of the seal from sharp edges when installing. Never done it, but the manual just says "press new oil seal in" to the timing cover.

You can look at examples using Google images. It's not right.

Where are you and how much are you offering?

Why would the pistons from a "master rebuild kit" not work with the head and cam? Something is weird and probably wrong. You need to list part numbers or links. Master rebuild kit is too general. If it is just a stock rebuild but with 0.040" pistons, and you get it put together right, I don't think that you've listed anything that will add power over the stock engine. From what I understand, the stock manifolds flow pretty well, so the headers won't add anything, and flow to and from the cylinders is restricted by the head, so no gains with the manifold and carb. These engines aren't like old small bccok chevys with small carburetors and restrictive exhaust manifolds. It actually sounds like you're about to put together an engine that won't run on pump gas with timing optimized for power. It will probably be down on power when you get it running, because of retarded timing. Better do some more research, take some measurements, and re-calculate.

You'll lose the safety features and the voltage/pump speed control. Noisier than necessary, more load on the electrical system at idle. But the Z31 ECCS can't control the pump without its associated relays, so if you don't have those you shouldn't be trying to use ECCS control anyway. The picture's from 1986. 1984 is similar. Around page 27-29 in the EFEC chapters.