NewZed

There's three holes on each side of the TV RT mount, to mount it to the car body. Did you pick the wrong two? I don't know if it's possible, but there is another hole there. Looks like everything else is right.

You might find some diagrams in this sub-forum, or the answer directly - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ The turbo ECCS system is hard to work on. Nissan built an analyzer for it and therefore didn't put much in to the later Service Manuals. The 1981 Turbo Supplement has a good wiring diagram. Try that one. http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html If you're on a phone and can't open big documents, you'll just have to ask better questions or hope someone feels generous. Good luck.

It's still in the link I provided. Do some work. Check the coil bracket for a silver cylinder. Then open the EFEC chapter to figure out what it is.

The ignition module is not on the ECU, it's by the fusebox. Above and forward. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Maybe it's the other end of the circuit, not the sensor end. A bad component that fails at high frequency. Have you tried the JimStim? Apparently, it replicates a clean signal from a variety of wheels. Looks like it was thought up and designed for exactly your problem. Not too spendy, especially considering the time, money, and effort you've already spent. http://jbperf.com/JimStim/

Good find. I assumed too much. Interesting thread. I learned something.

Large water filter? There's probably room for one down by the bottom hose. You'd have to do some research on rates and particle size. Of course, remove and rinse is the obvious first attempt. I think that fill and shake might be more effective than turn upside down and flush. You need to get the sand to one of the openings. Then it's up to your comfort level wondering if you got all of it out. Most of the sand will probably settle to the bottom of the radiator anyway.

He's still screwed. https://wwwapps.ups.com/ctc/request?loc=en_US&WT.svl=PNRO_L1

PM'ed instead.

Courtesy sounded like a great idea. But, it looks like shipping gets you no matter where they come from. PM Tony D, he probably carries some around with him. I think it's not recommended but maybe you can re-use those nuts. Maybe. Used nuts might work, with threadlocker. I'd do it.

Click on the Compatibility tab on the attached link and you'll find a few options. I copied some of the Nissan models in a picture. Could be that the upper rubber seal on yours just rotted away. They do that. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MCS0/7013/03357.oap?year=1976&make=Nissan&model=280Z&vi=1209226&ck=Search_C2021_1209226_-1&pt=C2021&ppt=C0331

The reservoir tanks were used before 1977. The caps all divert overflow to a hose. The only new question is whether or not the cap and radiator cap flange can hold a vacuum to pull the coolant back in. There is no extra valve just two round rubber seals. The main pressure relief spring and seal could be termed a valve. But it's the only one.

Looks promising but I'll bet a lot of people get stuck here - Your Responsibilities are to make sure that the vehicle is not currently titled in your state, stolen, or salvaged. After five (5) years most titles are out of the system, but if you think your car is still in your state's computer, just contact your local "Department of Motor Vehicles" (DMV) and give them the Vehicle Identification Number from your vehicle. Then ask the status of the Title if any.

Most states require the registered owner to either release interest or apply for the new title, through a "lost or damaged title" process. Until the registered owner releases interest, the vehicle is theirs. You don't even need a bill of sale in most states, just the title in-hand with the release of interest signature. It doesn't matter who took money for it, or who possesses it if the title interest isn't released. That's my understanding. I've looked at a car or two with no title and you either had to go to the DMV with the registered owner, or find the registered owner and convince them to go to the DMV or find the title, This is in Oregon, other states may be different. I haven't seen a simple process described to take ownership with no title. I think that there may be ways to claim that a vehicle is abandoned and take ownership that way.

You might start a new thread with a title like "Which tailshaft housings will swap?" or something similar. So you can find the right one. There are a few guys on here who've had many of these transmissions apart and might know. I have an old ZX tail housing myself but am not really in to selling/shipping/internet stuff, beyond Amazon and eBay. But anyone who did the 71C/240SX transmission bellhousing swap should have 1/2 a transmission left over. They're out there.

Post a link.

May or may not matter, but most 1976 cars have a voltmeter, you have an ammeter. Maybe it's an early 76, or it's actually a 75. Avoid some wiring confusion in the future. It looks like the Jeep market is really driving your engine options. They all look pretty tall though. http://www.tuffdawgengines.com/AMC.htm

Turn the rod so that the threaded portion on the end of the rod gets shorter. In other words, the effective rod length increases. You can actually turn it without removing the clevis pin in the pedal, by loosening the locknut and using a pair of pliers on the rod. You'll be able to watch that gap between the rubber stop and the pedal close up. Looks like you have quite way to go because the pedal spring is pulling the rod out to the limit of the retaining clip in the master cylinder. You should be able to lengthen the rod until the pedal spring pulls the pedal against the rubber stop and there's a little bit of play/slop around the clevis pin. Hopefully you have a good pin, they get a groove worn in to them over time and can add some sloppiness. You have a lot more travel in your MC than you're using now.

The new hole is shown in the link I edited in above. Since it's on the rod, it's just 22 mm forward. Who knows, there's not much to it, you could probably get it right with a hand drill and a tap. If it was me and I had everything all put together and working, I might even drill and tap without taking it apart, but with the transmission out, on its side and working from underneath so the chips fall down and out. But I'm lazy and like an odd challenge. You can also see the notch on the 71C shift rod in his pictures. Looks like that would be your problem source sine you started with a 4 speed housing. A measurement of hole location comparing the two housings would also tell. There should be a 22 mm difference. http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/Transmission2.htm

I can't imagine someone drilling a new hole. Where would they put it? I think it sits in the notch in the shifting rod, and is actuated by the edge of the notch. You can see it in the sixth and seventh pictures of Post #10 in this link - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/49070-transmission-id-quiz.html Lots of swaps done and no reports of reverse switch weirdness. Maybe get a mirror up in the hole and see if something's bent inside and can be nudged aside. Maybe your shift rod is 180 off, did you repair any shift fork damage? You should be able to see that notch. You might be right, there could be something wrong inside the transmission. Edit - Found that reference you talked about. Apparently the four speed front cases had the switch in a different spot. Meaning they must have used a different style shift rod. I used a ZX 5 speed housing so no problems for me. You could probably fix it just by swapping shift rods, I would guess, or machining a new notch in the rod. Might be easier than machining a new hole in the case. Still, a look through the hole will probably tell the story. Sorry to monopolize your thread, good luck. http://home.comcast.net/~zheimsothtn/Transmission2.htm " Here's one I haven't seen mentioned before; the reverse gear switch is located about 22mm further back on my F4W71B than on the FS5W71B or C. Since I didn't realize this until after I chose the 4 speed bell housing to modify (it was already out of the car), I had to drill and tap a new hole in the side of the case to make my reverse switch work. If you're using a 5 speed 71B bell housing, this is not a concern."

Not really understanding what's going on. You say waiting for them to kick on, implying that they were off, but then say that they stayed on, implying that they were already on. And the switch and wiring test out good. ?? Anyway, your car, your problems, Something to work on. You could always just wire in a console switch in the meantime, until you figure it out.

Seems like a lot of work for pretty certain. Have you logic'ed things out? You said the reverse lights are always on. Meaning the switch contacts are always closed. You might be able to back the switch out a few threads to get the contacts to open. Or you might just have a stuck switch, You can probably swap it with one of the extra ones, from under the car. Even if you took the transmission out and removed the front case, that's probably what you'd end up doing anyway. I have a 1985 71C transmission with a ZX bell/front case on it. It's sitting in the garage so I checked the switches. The reverse switch is the one directly in front of the fill plug on the right side. It works fine, reverse = beep, anything else = silence. There's also a neutral switch on the back half, right side. Good luck, don't get carried away.

It's in between before adjustment and after adjustment, it can't get better. The distributor rotor orientation is fine. If the distributor housing is twisted too far, that means the ignition timing is off. Get a timing light and set timing.

Why does this "sound right"? That pressure should be released through the charcoal canister. The big pressure release indicates that something is screwed up. My stock 1976 280Z with the complete venting system (lets pressure out), including the stock charcoal canister, and vented tank cap (lets air in), and aftermarket Airtex E8312 fuel pump is very quiet. A couple of pieces of rubber between the pump body and the mount, and I can only hear it in a quiet garage with the pump only running, engine off. Nobody should have to live with a noisy fuel pump.

The switch is located over the reverse gear mechanism of the transmission, probably the shift fork. It can't be moved anywhere. You may have plugged in to the wrong switch, like a neutral indicator switch. Use an ohmmeter or test light and find the switch that closes when the shifter is in reverse location. Or just try them all until one works right.