NewZed

Somebody seems to think that they can get them - http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sop=10&_nkw=tokico+%2B+%283015%2C+3016%2C+3012%2C+3013%2C+3038%29&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m194&ssPageName=ADME:SS:SS:US:1150 eBay just popped out this notification a few days a go. Get the 3013 and don't use the spacer for the front.

I put a typical alternator capacitor/condenser on the coil negative post once to solve a jumpy tach problem. It was a GM HEI module with a Z31 coil (yes, the Tony D setup, but since changed to an external GM HEI coil). Stray RF or voltage spikes, who knows. The tach started working again. The tech circuit doesn't require much, in other words it's sensitive, it has a pretty large resistor in-line from the coil post.

No offense intended. You could have wired up the painless exactly like the original. None intended on this question either - have you confirmed power at the coil during cranking? There are two circuits from the ignition switch, one for cranking and one for running. One simple way to test the most basic elements of the system is to connect a jumper wire to the coil negative, leave the end hanging in air, place the end of the center coil wire next to ground with about a spark plug width gap, turn the key on, and tap the jumper to ground. That should create a spark from the coil. You'll be mimicking what the E12-80 or 6AL does. Make and break the coil circuit. Off topic, a little, but the MSD goes to single spark at higher RPM. How can it allow or generate an extra ten HP compared to a high energy ignition system like the E12-80? There's no logical reason for it. Maybe compared to an older points system? My take on MSD has been that it cleans up low RPM running on engines that might otherwise miss or not get a complete burn due to high performance cams or high CR's. Ignition system discussions are always interesting.

One problem that you might be having is that the original 260Z electronic ignition module is still in place. It would be at the end of that "tach sensor" wire in Post #5. That would be two modules on the coil negative but only one is getting the variable reluctor voltage spike. The other one isn't so doesn't allow the circuit to break, therefore no spark. Did the engine ever run? Are you "upgrading" the original 260Z electronic ignition? Describe what you have and someone will have a solution. JMortensen's suggestion would work, but only if you disconnect the original module. Then you would remove the E12-80 module, and extend the red and green wires from inside the distributor to the MSD module. And the order of the wires would matter, because the trigger from the VR would be either rising or falling. The MSD 6AL doesn't offer much more than the stock E12-80. Might be simplest to just crawl up under the dash by the fuse box, disconnect the stock 260Z module, and use your wiring scheme in Post #5. Sell the 6AL, and buy a 280ZX coil to work with the 280ZX module.

It's in the Tool Shed. You broke some Rules.

There's a Contact link on the webpage. You might send a message and find out, and ask if they're actually available. That last post is May 2010. The guy is stil making the RTz-style mounts, I think, so there's hope. http://www.technoversions.com/ I thought the older Ford V8's were either Windsor or Cleveland style, Windsor being small-block, Cleveland bigger, although the sizes weren't actually that different. 221, 255, 260 (Sunbeam Tiger - a model for the V8 Z), 289, 302, 351 were apparently the Windsor block displacements. That's just my vague, fuzzy memory of old Ford engines. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Windsor_engine

Looks like the lug nuts are torqued down over an air gap and the rigidity of the flat steel between the two rings is expected to transfer the force to the contact surfaces, maybe even just the outer ring. Even worse. But the steel isn't rigid enough. Probably flexing all over when racing. Looks like a poor wheel design. They should pay for your hubs if they're selling those as performance wheels. Maybe the design is meant for a hub that fits completely inside the outer ring. Could be the wrong application. Just an opinion, it's not my field. I just know the basics, and the picture is a little grainy, and two-dimensional. Looks bad though..

So that's where it is. Knew it was out there somewhere.

It's a discussion. Hybridz only lost a week though, And when Hybridz is gone, where the pictures were stored won't matter anyway. I don't know how you can tell that imgur and photobucket are viable businesses. Photobcuket is clunky and slow, I can easily imagine them going out of business. I may be jaded - I learned word processing using Word Star (all those memorized formatting codes useless now...), and my first e-mail account was on Eudora.

How long will imgur.com be around. There are threads with disappearing pictures happening now. When the site dies, the pictures and links go with it. It's a dilemma. Example - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62691-l6-heads-pics-and-descriptions/page-5?do=findComment&comment=1121078

Hit More Reply Options then Choose File then Attach this File. You probably missed the last step. Could be that you're using the stock bar bushings and they're allowing too much flex.

That type of clearancing is for the wider gear. To use the bigger CS bearing you have to enlarge its hole in the front case. It's a precision machining operation. It's the only thing you can't do in your garage unless you have some milling equipment.

Same wheels? I got the impression it was a fatigue problem from flexing, because there was a gap at the wheel mounting surface. My interpretation, I couldn't really be sure what was being proposed in the other thread.

You're right, more stuff when you're signed in. I get 2 pages, ~24 hrs when not signed in, 19 pages, ~4 weeks when signed in. And can't find an option for changing the view. But I still get newest first on the first page. Who knows. This is on a desktop computer. Maybe mobile platform OS is different.

All of these links are broken. Is this a dead Photobucket account or did some images get lost in the crash?

There's probably a setting in your profile that got changed. View ascending versus descending. I have Chrome on windows 7 and I still get newest first. just like before.

Some computerized flow analysis seems like a good idea. I thought that the big problem with the L6 head is the flow, not so much the surface area.

Signal conditioning is done at the CAS. Piling on....

You might try controlling the coil with the E12-80 module alone first, to verify they work right, then add the MSD unit. The MSD basically inserts between the E12-80 module and the coil.

That guy that gave you advice the last time you posted this is a moderator. You should take the advice. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119653-a-fine-kettle-of-electrical-fish/?do=findComment&comment=1120930 Forget abut the brand of harness and the 12 volt power source. Figure out how the ignition system works and give it what it needs. You didn't say if you have spark either, just that the engine won't start. Check for spark. And describe what engine you're working with - carbs, EFI, etc. There are many engine swaps out there, 260Z doesn't tell much.

Bad angles cause vibration, not diff howl. Noise (the howl) transmitted in to the cabin from the diff is usually from the mounts being too solid, allowing a good path for high frequency noise. Is it possible that your propeller shaft is too long for the new setup, pressing the diff back in its mounts?

The Flying Spaghetti Monster could probably help you out. It will tell you what controls the relays that control the pump. You'll need to know what kind of car you're driving.

77's don't have boost. So it's either not a 77 engine or your description needs work.

One day and 12 posts later, no testing done, and you're buying new parts without knowing much more than when you started. Don't forget the coil itself. And if you're guessing on the module, the GM HEI module is a much cheaper way to go. It will wire up just the like the black box does.