NewZed

Sounds like you have the lines reversed on the fuel rail. This pumps in to the outlet of the FPR, leading to maximum fuel pump pressure on that line. Bet if you checked you'd find that no fuel is flowing in the return line. It's deadheaded at the FPR. The typical aftermarket fuel pump will hit 80-90 psi.

Re-title your post - "Need 8 quart oil pan for 1987 300ZX" and you might get more looks, maybe some advice. Oil pans are generally boring, I only clicked because there was nothing else to look at. An 8 quart oil pan is kind of interesting though.

Did you confirm oil flow through the cam? I remember that was a subject of concern. For the record, could you summarize the details? Who made the cam, was it reground from stock material, or was it new, which rocker arms failed (the Delta's or your home-reworks) and how many? Probably painful to relive but the clear path to a good cam swap still needs developing. Still seems odd that it's such a problem. And what path will you take now? New rocker arms? Do they exist? Nissan new or "new" from specs. by some shop somewhere? Also wondering if Delta knows their product is failing. Regrinding rocker arms is probably a job they give to the new kid. Maybe they don't know what's happening.

I didn't want to complicate the process but it could be a relay powered circuit that's shorting. That's harder to find, since the relay needs power to cause the short. Your description of molten lead makes it sounds like you have a big wire shorting though. Looks like a tough one. One thing you can do is to put a light bulb, like a bulb in a tail light socket, in between the end of the positive cable and the battery positive. The light bulb will allow enough power to flow to cause the short, but not enough to burn anything up. If the short is there the light will light up. If it's a relay, you'll hear the relay click when you connect the power. I think that you'll get enough current through a small bulb to activate a relay. Even if it's not a relay the light will tell you if the short is there. One possible way to figure it out.

I would have left everything connected, removed the battery, confirmed that you had low resistance from the positive cable to the negative cable (confirming the short), then disconnected things one by one until the short went away.

Yes there should be. A lot. 15 megahoms is a lot. If there wasn't the battery would discharge immediately.

The auto stores may be losing track of transmission parts (I stopped by a couple today and their software couldn't track down a Nachi 63/22X), but apparently it's a common motorcycle crankshaft bearing. A bearing house wouldn't have a problem. http://www.ebay.com/itm/371108714614?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT NEW GENUINE KOYO CRANKSHAFT BEARING 63/22C3 56X22X16 6QTY: 1 PART NUMBER: 6322X MEASURMENTS: 56X22X16 FITS: KZ550-A1 (1980) KZ550-A2 (1981) KZ550-A3 (1982) KZ550-A4 (1983) KZ550-C1 LTD (1980) KZ550-C2 LTD (1981) KZ550-C3 LTD (1982) CRANKSHAFT/SECONDARY SHAFT ('80-'81 C1/C CRANKSHAFT/SECONDARY SHAFT ('82-'83 C3/C KZ550-C4 LTD (1983) KZ550-D1 GPz (1981) KZ550-F1 Spectre (1983) KZ550-F2 LTD Shaft (1984) KZ550-H1 GPz (1982) KZ550-H2 GPz (1983) KZ550-M1 LTD Shaft (1983) VN900B6F Vulcan 900 Classic (2006) VN900B7F Vulcan 900 Classic (2007) VN900B8F Vulcan 900 Classic (2008) VN900B9F Vulcan 900 Classic (2009) VN900BAF Vulcan 900 Classic (2010) VN900BBFA Vulcan 900 Classic (2011) VN900BCF Vulcan 900 Classic (2012) VN900BCFA Vulcan 900 Classic (2012) VN900BDF Vulcan 900 Classic (Canadian) (2013) VN900BDFA Vulcan 900 Classic (2013) VN900BEF Vulcan 900 Classic (2014) VN900BEFA Vulcan 900 Classic (2014) VN900C7F Vulcan 900 Custom (2007) VN900C7F Vulcan 900 Custom (European) (2007) VN900C8F Vulcan 900 Custom (2008) VN900C8F Vulcan 900 Custom (European) (2008) VN900C9F Vulcan 900 Custom (2009) VN900C9FA Vulcan 900 Custom (2009) VN900C9FA Vulcan 900 Custom (European) (2009) VN900CAF Vulcan 900 Custom (2010) VN900CAFA Vulcan 900 Custom (2010) VN900CBF Vulcan 900 Custom (2011) VN900CBFA Vulcan 900 Custom (2011) VN900CCF Vulcan 900 Custom (2012) VN900CCFA Vulcan 900 Custom (2012) VN900CDFA Vulcan 900 Custom (2013) VN900CEFA Vulcan 900 Custom (2014) VN900D6F Vulcan 900 Classic LT (2006) VN900D7F Vulcan 900 Classic LT (2007) VN900D8F Vulcan 900 Classic LT (2008) VN900D9F Vulcan 900 Classic LT (2009) VN900DAF Vulcan 900 Classic LT (2010) VN900DBF Vulcan 900 Classic LT (2011) VN900DCF Vulcan 900 Classic LT (2012) VN900DDF Vulcan 900 Classic LT (2013) VN900DEF Vulcan 900 Classic LT (2014) ZL600-A1 ZL600 Eliminator (1986) ZL600-A2 ZL600 Eliminator (1987) ZL600-B2 Eliminator 600 (1996) ZL600-B3 Eliminator 600 (1997) ZR550-B1 Zephyr (1990) ZR550-B2 Zephyr (1991) ZR550-B3 Zephyr (1992) ZR550-B4 Zephyr (1993) ZX550-A1 GPz (1984) ZX550-A2 GPz (1985) ZX550-A3 GPz (1986) ZX600-A1 Ninja 600 (1985) ZX600-A2 Ninja 600 (1986) ZX600-A3 Ninja 600 (1987) ZX600-B1 Ninja 600RX (1987) ZX600-C1 Ninja 600R (1988) ZX600-C10 Ninja 600R (1997) ZX600-C2 Ninja 600R (1989) ZX600-C3 Ninja 600R (1990) ZX600-C4 Ninja 600R (1991) ZX600-C5 Ninja 600R (1992) ZX600-C6 Ninja 600R (1993) ZX600-C7 Ninja 600R (1994) ZX600-C8 Ninja 600R (1995) ZX600-C9 Ninja 600R (1996)

Bummer. Phone internet is sucky.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

In case you get the wrong one. http://www.bearingscanada.com/servlet/the-6839/63-fdsh-22X-dsh-2NSL-Nachi,-Nachi,-deep/Detail They do exist. Actually, that's a sealed bearing, but pretty close. Edit found the open one - http://www.bearingscanada.com/servlet/the-19228/63-fdsh-22X-NACHI%2C-Nachi%2C-deep/Detail For some reason, that size bearing seems hard to find. The parts store sites list center and rear, but no front, even though there's only two bearings. None are 56 mm. Messed up. The 71B and 71C internet information has been messed up for quite a while. Everyone seems to be working from the same wrong spreadsheet. Dumping more stuff on your thread, for any future searchers. The 56mm bearing may be disappearing. If you search the AST database (the Nachi distributor, see link at bottom), the 62mm bearing comes up with a "305" number, which is the Timken cross-reference, but there is no option at all for a 56mm bearing. http://www.astbearings.com/catalog.html?category=single_row_deep_groove Nachi - http://www.astbearings.com/nachi-bearings-distributor.html

The DIY site's a pretty good source. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt_install_writeups.htm

How about a picture? Or a link.

Have you measured anything? I see RPM, and 0. 0 isn't even correct since the car does move. "New" us useless if the numbers aren't right. Just to add a guess - You have a flat cam lobe causing the popping and lack of power, and the CHTS resistance is high, causing the gas smell,

The thermostat is designed to hold the coolant temperature constant. So sitting on the "M" no matter what is good.

No idea what this means^^ The bucking is typical of a lean condition, assuming timng is correct and you're driving correctly. Either low fuel pressure or an AFM and ECU that run on the lean side. Usually there is some popping back through the intake manifold though, if it's lean. A common fix for that problem is to install a potentiometer in the coolant temperature circuit to add a little resistance and trick the ECU in to thinking the engine is colder, to add more fuel. But, you don't have any measurements in your post. You really need to measure fuel pressure, ignition timing, and resistance on the coolant temperature circuit, at least, to have a starting point to work from. Without numbers it's all guessing. The movement of the rotor is just the centrifugal advance mechanism moving. Read the Engine Tuneup chapter - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Pretty sure that I got a bearing at OReilly Auto. I've also used the Timken resource to find the part number. But everything is coming up 62 mm, not 56. Anyway, at OReilly you could compare the bearings side by side. Your local dealer might have it also. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Transmission+Bearings/C0070/C0338.oap?year=1982&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209350&keyword=bearing http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/ http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionGears/5Speed/tabid/1708/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/bearing-co-p-341746.html Notice that you can get the bearing shim also. Only one size available though. but they all seem to need that size (I measured a bunch), Manufacturing got more precise, probably.

I've been helpful in all of my posts. You're just missing it. And there is no "hood strut section" or "suspension team" (to get owned?, who's mocking?...) Also, I don't know what "birdging" is, no idea why red or blue or for sale matters, and not ticked off. I am amused and bemused though.

Post #6? - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119465-rb26-susspension-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=1119954 Don't forget that new posts come from people you haven't pissed off. Last post September 3 - http://forums.nicoclub.com/datsun-z-forum-f1241.html

He does seem to know what he's doing - https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.368925643220938.1073741825.296125467167623&type=3 Can't find a Hybridz thread. Found it Thanks. Hard to keep up... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99357-my-dream-ls7gtzproject-underway/page-30 If you open the thread and search within the topic for "arizona" (use the Hybridz search box) you get a pretty nice review from somebody that put the parts to the test. He's using the short-nose diff mount also. And he had the links to the bar pointed straight down. Maximum leverage so the set screw, or whatever clamping mechanism, was critical. Obviously these things have been discussed before (June 2012), but a review never hurts.

I wonder if this guy knows about the set screw - http://www.importtuner.com/features/1408_mti_racing_1971_datsun_240z/viewall.html Might be important at speed. Car specs. at the end of the article. Can't replace the lost week's discussion (a shame), but still interesting to follow where the design is being used.

Just a thought - is it possible that you used a short lug nut on a thin wheel and the stud bottomed out inside? Then you spun the stud when you thought you were tightening it? Hard to imagine how a properly torqued lug nut, of four or five also properly torqued, could allow the stud to move enough to wallow out its hole.

Here's CFJ's description, just for reference. Maybe they didn't get pressed in fully. Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z Chromoly Stub Axles Billet 4340 heat treated, cryogenically treated, and double tempered Stub Axles! Available in typical Datsun/Nissan 4 lug (4x4.5) or 5 lug (5x4.5) Includes one pair of billet stub axles and one set of M12x1.5 ARP studs WITH the ARP studs pressed in. They are a direct replacement you must use the large 27 spline 280 flange or any of the adapters below. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

Your picture links don't work. No thumbnails, nothing comes up with a click.

It's wasting your time and money. Seriously. A $5 Harbor Freight meter, a free download, and some time could have saved you that money. Test at the ECU connection, that's what matters.

By "shorts" I meant continuity. There shouldn't be any continuity from the end of the positive cable to the end of the negative cable (ground), when the key and everything else is off. You don't even need the battery installed to do the testing. Set the meter for ohms/resistance.