NewZed

How long will imgur.com be around. There are threads with disappearing pictures happening now. When the site dies, the pictures and links go with it. It's a dilemma. Example - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62691-l6-heads-pics-and-descriptions/page-5?do=findComment&comment=1121078

Hit More Reply Options then Choose File then Attach this File. You probably missed the last step. Could be that you're using the stock bar bushings and they're allowing too much flex.

That type of clearancing is for the wider gear. To use the bigger CS bearing you have to enlarge its hole in the front case. It's a precision machining operation. It's the only thing you can't do in your garage unless you have some milling equipment.

Same wheels? I got the impression it was a fatigue problem from flexing, because there was a gap at the wheel mounting surface. My interpretation, I couldn't really be sure what was being proposed in the other thread.

You're right, more stuff when you're signed in. I get 2 pages, ~24 hrs when not signed in, 19 pages, ~4 weeks when signed in. And can't find an option for changing the view. But I still get newest first on the first page. Who knows. This is on a desktop computer. Maybe mobile platform OS is different.

All of these links are broken. Is this a dead Photobucket account or did some images get lost in the crash?

There's probably a setting in your profile that got changed. View ascending versus descending. I have Chrome on windows 7 and I still get newest first. just like before.

Some computerized flow analysis seems like a good idea. I thought that the big problem with the L6 head is the flow, not so much the surface area.

Signal conditioning is done at the CAS. Piling on....

You might try controlling the coil with the E12-80 module alone first, to verify they work right, then add the MSD unit. The MSD basically inserts between the E12-80 module and the coil.

That guy that gave you advice the last time you posted this is a moderator. You should take the advice. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119653-a-fine-kettle-of-electrical-fish/?do=findComment&comment=1120930 Forget abut the brand of harness and the 12 volt power source. Figure out how the ignition system works and give it what it needs. You didn't say if you have spark either, just that the engine won't start. Check for spark. And describe what engine you're working with - carbs, EFI, etc. There are many engine swaps out there, 260Z doesn't tell much.

Bad angles cause vibration, not diff howl. Noise (the howl) transmitted in to the cabin from the diff is usually from the mounts being too solid, allowing a good path for high frequency noise. Is it possible that your propeller shaft is too long for the new setup, pressing the diff back in its mounts?

The Flying Spaghetti Monster could probably help you out. It will tell you what controls the relays that control the pump. You'll need to know what kind of car you're driving.

77's don't have boost. So it's either not a 77 engine or your description needs work.

One day and 12 posts later, no testing done, and you're buying new parts without knowing much more than when you started. Don't forget the coil itself. And if you're guessing on the module, the GM HEI module is a much cheaper way to go. It will wire up just the like the black box does.

I'm definitely no expert on converter stall speeds but I think that you have your understanding backward. The 2500 will be more sluggish than the 2800. The number is where the converter starts to "grab". So 2800 would be like revving the engine to 2800 RPM with a clutch and a manual transmission to get moving versus revving to 2500. Basically the high stall speed converter cars sound like somebody slipping the hell out of their clutch to get going. So high stall, you'll be the guy making a lot of noise to get going from a stop, low stall, you'll be quieter but not as quick. The converter should, generally, match the torque curve of the engine. So Lunati's advice is based on what their cam should produce.You probably don't want to go higher than that because it would be a waste of energy, but you could probably go lower to make the engine more streetable. Then tune the driving experience by adjusting the gear change points of the transmission. I'm just talking from what little I know about automatics.

Race only or street only? Or in-between? If you don't trust the cam designer, who will you trust? If you're not getting the power from the cam, maybe you have the wrong cam for the blend of parts.

The tachs get old and go bad. Your symptoms are like those of a bad ignition module. Also an overheating relay or electrical connection. It's a tough one. Timing light sticking out the hood might work, you could see the flashes. Or an aftermarket tach, if you have an old one laying around. Or you could do the GM HEI conversion, for a cheap effective fix. Worst case you still have the problem, but end up with a newer better-shape ignition module.. You're probably running on the 37 year old original ignition module and they definitely wear out eventually.

The specifics on that page are for the 1977 model. He added the other material as a bonus, but it may not be complete. Some of the other models have relays that end up powered all the time if you just follow the instructions. 1976 for example. If you hear a click when you connect and disconnect the battery, with the key off and a charged battery, that might be your problem.

For the record - http://schneidercams.com/300F_L6.aspx , Related Products. The More Info button on their web site doesn't really jump out at you but it does add more info.

Wring diagrams in the back of the EL chapter. Nissan did a poor job on it though, trying to show turbo and NA on one drawing. Still figurable. You are wrong (you requested). Edit - actually you're only partially wrong.

I saved the following thread a while ago because it had some interesting considerations and numbers. Quench and piston rocking, I've also seen that you either want to be in the "quench" area or completely away from it. If you're not in it but too close you can actually create a detonation zone. No facts to back it up, just a consideration. Some people seem to think that the Datsun "quench" heads weren't doing any quenching at all. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106806-long-rod-short-piston-combo-l28-tech-questions/?do=findComment&comment=999867 Numbers-wise, .025" = 0.635mm. So with a 1.25 mm HG (after installation), you'd have 0.615mm or .024" "quench" zone. So your mechanic might be right, depending on which part of the discussion in the thread I linked you look at. BRAAP suggests that .014" quench is "perfect" (Post #16), but two others stop at .028" and .025".

This thread is for 280Z's. The wiring is a little different from your 240Z. The guesses will be closer if you show how you wired your system. By show I mean a diagram, not pictures of wires.

There are eleven ignition system tests that you can do using a meter, page EL-28. You might also check the stator magnet to see if it's broken, check the air gap, check that the bushings aren't worn allowing the air gap to change. Look at the tips of the six point reluctor for signs that they've been touching the stator. Pretty common I think for the magnets to break and the bushings to wear out. The bushings are available as a maintenance item. Someone posted recently also about another part that wears, but I can't remember what it is. Might not find your problem, but you'll know more than you do now. On fuel - there's always the old gauge sticking from the hood method. Watch what happens in the problem zone.

Does fuel come out of the return line? Run it in to a gas can. That's even easier than connecting the gauge there. There are many ways to figure out where the blockage is.