NewZed

In case you get the wrong one. http://www.bearingscanada.com/servlet/the-6839/63-fdsh-22X-dsh-2NSL-Nachi,-Nachi,-deep/Detail They do exist. Actually, that's a sealed bearing, but pretty close. Edit found the open one - http://www.bearingscanada.com/servlet/the-19228/63-fdsh-22X-NACHI%2C-Nachi%2C-deep/Detail For some reason, that size bearing seems hard to find. The parts store sites list center and rear, but no front, even though there's only two bearings. None are 56 mm. Messed up. The 71B and 71C internet information has been messed up for quite a while. Everyone seems to be working from the same wrong spreadsheet. Dumping more stuff on your thread, for any future searchers. The 56mm bearing may be disappearing. If you search the AST database (the Nachi distributor, see link at bottom), the 62mm bearing comes up with a "305" number, which is the Timken cross-reference, but there is no option at all for a 56mm bearing. http://www.astbearings.com/catalog.html?category=single_row_deep_groove Nachi - http://www.astbearings.com/nachi-bearings-distributor.html

The DIY site's a pretty good source. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_280zx_turbo.htm http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt_install_writeups.htm

How about a picture? Or a link.

Have you measured anything? I see RPM, and 0. 0 isn't even correct since the car does move. "New" us useless if the numbers aren't right. Just to add a guess - You have a flat cam lobe causing the popping and lack of power, and the CHTS resistance is high, causing the gas smell,

The thermostat is designed to hold the coolant temperature constant. So sitting on the "M" no matter what is good.

No idea what this means^^ The bucking is typical of a lean condition, assuming timng is correct and you're driving correctly. Either low fuel pressure or an AFM and ECU that run on the lean side. Usually there is some popping back through the intake manifold though, if it's lean. A common fix for that problem is to install a potentiometer in the coolant temperature circuit to add a little resistance and trick the ECU in to thinking the engine is colder, to add more fuel. But, you don't have any measurements in your post. You really need to measure fuel pressure, ignition timing, and resistance on the coolant temperature circuit, at least, to have a starting point to work from. Without numbers it's all guessing. The movement of the rotor is just the centrifugal advance mechanism moving. Read the Engine Tuneup chapter - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Pretty sure that I got a bearing at OReilly Auto. I've also used the Timken resource to find the part number. But everything is coming up 62 mm, not 56. Anyway, at OReilly you could compare the bearings side by side. Your local dealer might have it also. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Transmission+Bearings/C0070/C0338.oap?year=1982&make=Nissan&model=280ZX&vi=1209350&keyword=bearing http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/ http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/TransmissionGears/5Speed/tabid/1708/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/bearing-co-p-341746.html Notice that you can get the bearing shim also. Only one size available though. but they all seem to need that size (I measured a bunch), Manufacturing got more precise, probably.

I've been helpful in all of my posts. You're just missing it. And there is no "hood strut section" or "suspension team" (to get owned?, who's mocking?...) Also, I don't know what "birdging" is, no idea why red or blue or for sale matters, and not ticked off. I am amused and bemused though.

Post #6? - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119465-rb26-susspension-upgrade/?do=findComment&comment=1119954 Don't forget that new posts come from people you haven't pissed off. Last post September 3 - http://forums.nicoclub.com/datsun-z-forum-f1241.html

He does seem to know what he's doing - https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.368925643220938.1073741825.296125467167623&type=3 Can't find a Hybridz thread. Found it Thanks. Hard to keep up... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/99357-my-dream-ls7gtzproject-underway/page-30 If you open the thread and search within the topic for "arizona" (use the Hybridz search box) you get a pretty nice review from somebody that put the parts to the test. He's using the short-nose diff mount also. And he had the links to the bar pointed straight down. Maximum leverage so the set screw, or whatever clamping mechanism, was critical. Obviously these things have been discussed before (June 2012), but a review never hurts.

I wonder if this guy knows about the set screw - http://www.importtuner.com/features/1408_mti_racing_1971_datsun_240z/viewall.html Might be important at speed. Car specs. at the end of the article. Can't replace the lost week's discussion (a shame), but still interesting to follow where the design is being used.

Just a thought - is it possible that you used a short lug nut on a thin wheel and the stud bottomed out inside? Then you spun the stud when you thought you were tightening it? Hard to imagine how a properly torqued lug nut, of four or five also properly torqued, could allow the stud to move enough to wallow out its hole.

Here's CFJ's description, just for reference. Maybe they didn't get pressed in fully. Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z Chromoly Stub Axles Billet 4340 heat treated, cryogenically treated, and double tempered Stub Axles! Available in typical Datsun/Nissan 4 lug (4x4.5) or 5 lug (5x4.5) Includes one pair of billet stub axles and one set of M12x1.5 ARP studs WITH the ARP studs pressed in. They are a direct replacement you must use the large 27 spline 280 flange or any of the adapters below. http://www.chequeredflagracing.net/Datsun.html

Your picture links don't work. No thumbnails, nothing comes up with a click.

It's wasting your time and money. Seriously. A $5 Harbor Freight meter, a free download, and some time could have saved you that money. Test at the ECU connection, that's what matters.

By "shorts" I meant continuity. There shouldn't be any continuity from the end of the positive cable to the end of the negative cable (ground), when the key and everything else is off. You don't even need the battery installed to do the testing. Set the meter for ohms/resistance.

Use a meter and check for shorts from the positive cable connections to ground. The starter lug that the positive cable is connected to and the alternator charge wire which is usually connected to the same spot. One of those two has to be grounded. Then narrow it down from there. If it's the starter, easy, if ti's the charge wire you'll have to check the voltage regulator and the various loads along the way. All you can do is keep checking with the meter until you find that short circuit. Sounds like a big one though, and since the fusible link doesn't blow I'm guessing starter. Then there's always the reversed connections. Happens to many. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1972_240z.gif

Working on these old cars requires some discipline and effort to get things right. I can't help but notice the degradation of this thread as it progresses, both in writing style and accomplishments. It's just not good. You've pulled the tank and the pump and you still don't even know if the pump works. And who wants to read text-speak, really? Anybody? Bump the effort level back up to Post #1. Edit - actually I may have offended some people that do text. I know that when I text a message I actually hit the little button for capitals. So "text-speak" is probably the wrong term. I don't know what the word would be for what's going on here.... Post #1 sample - "Good Morning fellow Z'ers, as you can see im having issues with my Z let me say i looooove this car so much but i haven't been able to enjoy it since I’ve owned it. The previous owners was a nice couple in Wisconsin and all they really asked was that i drove the car and enjoyed it "which i plan to do once its running good", anyway onto my issues let me list what i have done and i hope someone can point me in the right direction on what could be the issue. Oh and if anyone lives near or passes through Augusta, GA and wouldn’t mind putting an eye on it that be awesome also." Post #16 (what's different?) - "yeah tonight I pulled the fuel pump and dropped the tank the way I see it might as well clean it to be extra safe in the long run an you know what emptied the tank and a first fuel looked normal, when it got to the last bits was like sludge so glad I did that. However working 9 hrs then pulling a tank at night alone was a little overwhelming those old clamps was no joke lol. tomorrow after work ill clean the tank and test the pump and pull the old lines so that I can replace them just to be safe. and ill report back with results."

The "one more thing" and "I forgot to mention" are progress killers. You just need to test each component, one at a time, and make sure they're doing what they're supposed to do. Dropping the fuel tank when you're not even sure if the fuel pump works doesn't make sense.

Sorry, I misunderstood what you were saying. Looks like you're only reading atmospheric. No connection to intake vacuum. good luck.

The A in MAP is for Absolute. That includes atmospheric. Copied the sentence below from one of numerous web sites. "The standard atmosphere (symbol: atm) is a unit of pressure and is defined as being equal to 101,325 Pa or 101.325 kPa.[1][2]" Source (I have no connection,it just looks authoritative) - https://www.princeton.edu/~achaney/tmve/wiki100k/docs/Atmospheric_pressure.html

The fuel pump doesn't run when the key is On unless things have been messed with. The pump gets power when the key is at Start, or when the engine is running. So, what you saw is correct for an unmolested stock 1978 280Z. Take the small wire off of the starter solenoid (it's a male-female press fit), place it where it won't ground out and cause a spark, then turn the key to Start. The starter won't turn the engine, but the fuel pump will get power. Be ready for fuel to flow. Edit - the first few pages of the Engine Fuel chapter will tell you how things are supposed to work. It can take some time to absorb it all but if you go back to it regularly, things will start to make sense. For example, "where is the cold start injector?" It's described, with a drawing, in the Engine Fuel chapter. Go look it up. It's also mentioned in the first few pages of the chapter. You'll waste a lot of time and money if you don't take a methodical approach.

Stop dropping parts when you're putting your engine back together? That was actually a pretty good catch back in Post #8 then. There have been posts about pinning the gear on the shaft, I believe. I think that Tony D has posted on it, if you want to search. Or he might be back with the fix.

There is no set of resistors under the distributor. Check the Electrical Chapter of the FSM to see what you might be thinking of. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/ Edit - tylernumber, Nissan removed the ballast for 1978.

You mean the three of us; me, dpuma8, and danigirlz? Or everybody on Hybridz? Just wondering if you're above just us three, or everyone. Why are you going to two pumps if one has been working so great? And the only difference between your ingenuity and stock is the point of fuel pickup? An exposed fuel pickup doesn't seem like an improvement over the protected stock point. Looks like you've gone backward. And then another idea, untried. I don't see any true value at all in your post besides an attempt to pump up your self-image.