NewZed

Here's an old thread that describes what some people do. The ES mount is flat and will rock on the nose of the diff. They remove urethane from the center-bottom mount to let it seat on the mounting holes. Another way is to stack washers under the mount at the holes but the original RT design already lowers the nose of the diff, since he designed it for a small block chevy transplant application. In an ideal world there would be another RT-style mount that holds the diff in the L6 orientation. Forgot to say that the ES mount holes need to be elongated also since they don't line up with the diff holes. Also described in bjhines's thread. A good round file will do the job. Actually a good size round file will probably do both jobs. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50209-ron-tyler-style-front-diff-mount/

*sigh* I feel for you Six_Shooter. It's so obvious now. Hard to believe that the brain-washed masses accomplish what little that they do. Now that you've shown the way, some will be sure to follow. Cheaper, easier, better - how can they not. Thanks for the enlightenment.

Still sounds interesting. But you haven't offered anything very specific The links were helpful. Can you do some simple math to show that the Delco EMS can be up and running "for less money" as you stated. You've made a proposal but it needs support. Just saying. Our own stuff always seems like the way to go. Until the math is done. I think that you and one other person are the only ones using the Delco system on an L6. Seems like it should be more popular.

Thanks for the links. It would be great to see a general path laid out to a Delco ECM running an L6, with some links and cost estimates. Just to make the case that there's another option out there than Megasquirt or one of the high dollar EMS. I browsed through your links and there's a lot there but they are very computer geek oriented (no offense). You have to get deep in to chips and EPROM's and communications, etc. to get anywhere. Megasquirt is making their money by being easy to get directly in to running and tuning with good support. I'm sure that Matt Cramer is on more boards than just this one, but he is available and has good insight on how to make things work. If you could lay out a plan to get running with a tunable Delco ECU that would be noteworthy.

The Delco ECM option sounds interesting but where do you get the products to tune it and how is the support? Do you flash the board directly or have to buy a daughter board like Nistune?

This web site is pretty informative. It shows that they're all the same until July-August of 1976 build date. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunZIndex/Brake/RearBrake/tabid/1734/Default.aspx

No need for the part number. Just pointing out that JWT Z31 ECU could be one of many possibilities. Even 84 turbo has four model numbers. Also implying that there is no guarantee that the PO knew what he was doing. People install large injectors all the time thinking that more gas = more power. And there's no way to notice no info on the JWT site for your older ECU because it was never said that it was an older out-dated ECU. It's not apparent that you've been on the site, or actually talked to someone at JWT, you didn't say. It looks like you have more information than you've shared. Post it up. Not many people talk about the JWT products, they're a mystery even though they've been around for a while.. The O2 sensor is only really in play during cruising conditions. Probably not the cause of your flames.

Maybe the PO installed super-duper 440 cc Supra injectors to go with the JWT modified ECU. Lots of different ECU's under the "JWT Z31" category. A lit of part numbers will help you out in the long run. Know what you're working with. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/customer_results.asp Here's something useful - http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/280%20Z31%20450HP%20UPGRADE.PDF

Your new injectors have a different, newer style of nozzle. I've seen it on a few other brands, like BWD and Standard (yours are probably one of those brands). Your new injectors aren't designed to use a pintle cap. The tender pieces are recessed inside the injector tip, protected. As far as directions on what to do when increasing injector flow, those would be in your SDS instructions. Lower injector open times would be the main change.

IF you're just looking for stronger spark the MSD can be run from your 1973 points distributor. If you're looking for more adjustability in your advance curves the Mallory might offer that. The simplest, cheapest way to get stronger spark might be a 280ZX distributor with its electronic module. You can get them for about $125 from Rockauto or your local parts store. Not shiny and don't have a big brand name attached but pretty effective. Don't forget that a new distributor will come with different centrifugal and vacuum advance curves. The curves have a big effect on driveability and power.

I thought JMortensen would be pretty good at evaluating quality. He's been deep in to the details on his other car. Good luck.

How did you miss this one - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118434-1970-rolling-chassis-suprisingly-light-rust/?do=findComment&comment=1110416

Don't know if this will help, but I measured voltage on the four pins to my 1995 Pathfinder CAS, with it disconnected from the distributor and key On, and I get one ground wire (zero), one 12 volt, and two 5 volt. The Pathfinder has the same type of optical CAS with a high resolution and low resolution trigger out. So the 5 comes from the ECU. The "trigger" might just be the phototransistor grounding the circuit. I think that much of what is written about the "trigger" voltage coming from the distributor may be mis-guided or wrong.

You're not comprehending...

The fuel pump is not supposed to stay on unless the engine is running. On early cars nothing happens until you hit Start. Later cars had a priming function controlled by relays and/or the ECU. You need to know what is controlling your fuel pump power.

The Factory Service Manual (FSM). You can open the relevant chapters here - http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

Pages 1982 EL-32 and 1982 EFEC-96 should help you out. It will take more effort than typing out "because" though. Probably hard to see on your phone also. A volt/ohm meter at the ECCS plug and those two pages should be enough. Good luck.

On the New Content page, on the left, do you have Forums chosen? Might have blogs or some other odd thing. If I choose Blogs or Downloads or Calendar, I get no content.

I just clicked it and got three pages of New Content. Windows 7 with Google Chrome browser.

Actually that's not clear from the Nissan service specs., and that's where the confusion comes from. Plus the fact that some BW manual transmissions specify Dexron, according to the interweb. See attachment for Nissan spec. Notice that Nissan calls out the automatic transmission specifically right below the manual transmission spec. It's just a poorly written specification. Here's a pretty good summary that throws in the confusing point with no clarification. World class versus non world class, but who knows if that's true. Nissan calls out either fluid in their spec. Maybe Nissan used both WC and NWC in their turbo cars and the owner is supposed to know which they have. It's a mess. About paragraph 7 - http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2007/05/01/hmn_feature21.html

This is one of those threads that could ramble around for weeks, but just for curiosity what is unknown about the injectors? Do you have a part number? Are they the stock injectors for the engine you're using? Turbo injectors? Or truly unknown? If you have the wrong injectors for the EFI system you're wasting money buying Seafoam.

How do you calculate mpg from 100 miles? Now seems like the right time - http://www.mycyclonefuelsaver.com/howitworks.html

Last post - I think that the 5 that's measured with the factory system comes from the ECU. You have a 12 volt supply on your pullup line so should be seeing 0 or 12, I believe. The 5 volts that you're seeing might be a coincidence. The voltage is not generated from within the distributor, it's just allowed through. The 5 and 4.75 you're seeing might just be the result of a voltage drop (from 12) from a short somewhere. Another guess. Sorry to clutter up your thread.

You've probably seen this or something like it. Zero or five seems like the right numbers. http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2031-0002.pdf Edit - note that the test is with everything plugged in.

Might as well post this for photo-diodes. It seems like the Nissan system would just put out a voltage, with only power and ground. Maybe it's between tach wire and distributor body. Almost the bottom of the page, Optical Triggering. Don't forget that MS is set up with VR trigger even with an optical distributor. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm Good luck.