NewZed

Bad hydraulic lash adjuster? May or may not be applicable to your engine. You should list the actual numbers for your cylinder pressure test, per cylinder, and also tell which cylinder has the darker plug. You might find some things correlating to one cylinder.

Maybe the chart is just listing the ratios the cars came with, nothing to do with with the differential component. Your logic seems reasonable. The 660 probably has the different size ring gear bolts. 650 seems more likely to be a bolt-in for the 3..9 280ZX diff. The holes will match the bolts. The years listed on the 660 product are later, in the 12mm bolt time-frame. That's a nice find on the chart, thanks for sharing that. Now if I can just figure out to save a Japanese PDF file...

Low fuel pressure comes to mind.

I think that he's saying that if there was no oil at the cam then there was probably no oil at the bearings. No oil > no lubrication > metal to metal contact > damage. Your first instinct was right - (I know, should have towed it). You saved $75 and will probably spend hundreds. For as cheap as it is, oil is probably the most important thing in an engine.

Thanks...

The ECU won't reflash. There's no EPROM chip.

Edited. Too mean. Had to add one more link. Probably a sign of the end... About 1/4 page down. Says he drove it down from Tokyo. http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/04/nagoya-exciting-car-showdown-2012-pt-1/

Lithium ion batteries - http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/whitezombie.php

Sounds like you actually have a "no run" issue, not a "no start". The older cars have two wires to the ballast, one to bypass the resistor for starting and the other to pass through the resistor for running. You might have just the Starting wire connected. Attached a 1976 picture to illustrate.

Here's a 185/50/16 on 16x7.5, with technique. And they report fail fail ... not even stretch. Seriously though, it's surprising what will come up on Google if you just search the size, like 185/50/16 on 16x8.

Pressure comes from flow restriction. The other way to lose pressure is for the pump to be moving oil just fine, but the oil to be flowing too freely through some area it shouldn't. A crack or a hole or a misplaced bearing.

Pretty sure that nothing is worth swapping from the 300 to the 240, except the R200. The 240 probably has an R180. You'll need more parts to do the swap, it's not really a throw-in job. You didn't post any pictures so it's not clear that the brown you mentioned is even on a car.

Thanks for the pictures, those are good enough. There are still well-established name brand springs being sold out there that don't do what they're advertised to do, or give odd results, like the Eibach progressive rate springs. People are still buying those, installing them, then asking why the front is higher than the back. Always good to confirm that products do what the manufacturer thinks they're going to do, in my opinion anyway. Mistakes get made.

Just looking for the real world number. The ad copy says 1.25", on brandcarparts. Great to have another option.

Any idea if the springs do much lowering? Your picture looks kind of stockish in height.

You're asking for suggestions and a little help but no pictures or descriptions. And the 1991 300ZX had short nose differentials. Problem? Photobucket is terrible for actually looking at pictures. Might be fine for storing, but viewing takes forever.

On my system, Windows 7 with Chrome, you can right click to search the internet for an image. There does seem to be some overlap in use of that image. http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-Thick-Turbo-Exhaust-Manifold-For-Nissan-RB20-RB25-RB25DET-NEW-DESIGN-/181319905462 https://www.google.com/search?tbs=sbi:AMhZZivff0zzTOv2fE7SDI9-yYg7PHzdmO8WOm8RVjjVRqUWaZ19QV-VF6png_1iqY-NlrUl1ftef05aCgF6ub5ioRMxvl46WjqCqqGvNoBS_1fR95nZ_1vkt1i1CugT2w3o_12_1YjUm-TZRW8GpaCEmdNQuNko2gullyAHDvFbqdRqF41gFO4HE8Eh5ffXIIHwgTA-EbypbKk-FHrsIBc6hKp3ZARqgfLTyR1aoyW-WfLMg_1YOumGqAnHOyDOw_1KHImltAdX5RugJATyYVSVb2Uv3hvydI5xmvhynuJt6XQZeD9zqOUqphZ_1tTlofl-eyvTTNOeEoTFe57T_1duA2bHV-ajR_1zkMkYnHoClrh1raVob7n3vWmkbh2c-aHOk5LL8eFvPBlEakk9VtNEVpQMn_1-pkHZFVC4h9esRNZHn36LvMTlas1e8fLOrKuj89uhnZ_1AgHVsEe7yPBDW0MR8pMMq74pA5K17dvm3aVUAbXJu8V9vZKN33fmI5tLNdWC1yALSDw09y0JX4_1U5wtYy6pUB8DAmpAtTFsPuMru5DPj7LkyfOcN872rm6it5d2HljJQnnFxIQDYsmkOuzWtz_14UsXCW35pafAk4jAivylYMOX4jCeSSw4sZDpTiPUkmeI82HIqoTkfM8_1NOxk2XEAwRek8oZxSBhyf-GgSjNVuT-9qkAo9K728cxdI-V686f2H6SL2g7J9nZy-Y-joeYbaZkRNOb-7X-qcCGD6eB1iGbBDTFTfoKk0OSgBq_1p64yc6SCP23YZiMYmHiY_1WIsATd-isfDugSS0Q2ZMsUxedpCI_1r1YlMXNV8hIQ9nYHbJURglpMr1fU2qT6CkAD0d0V_17eBvDUz_16qsRu6_18W36AOj6EcrmiMhRjxoK1_1cMBb3X7OaQCVbgy4nl1za-ZRfUD_1CNCooo8wMiI_1gmK1FTOdBo2FN_1Bw82UpObqE7BWprJY25uRh3zv6JPE6RGRyKIHQUrgaskFn52fq1kA3zJgWjMHYiJ6gBbS-JAaxQPwbeqQQzMl73xaX8Eb4maZwhhAOwg_1JKr1JzYg-M0IdHiPi1xJbXg6P_1AJ3SQJcPaI6u85r1k62iV1MmO3MyQ30yukdRqk68-L8iJyf1t2J9V3Sa2342NckOr5zIu5VTaDdN8elu2PR-LQj38iHF5B5yqtWzI_1TdR7V7shk8CAJDO1uDo-yXcOFZ9wc2WgSfgBob_1H6ozdYM8wbe0Gh_1Q5beMxV5eGlZ7M483b1EXJpu6JPWaAtFrxEDfftiRtn1i62WatXYhO5Lma2QHbQ9e08erh_1FPux26GQypXDzyo-xru6tlbPFpbpW-OWtqEZXnn4JHxWCX-qEfUqSOzKEu4eFqaw0yB1PH6lgQSyxQAx1aen8Uzpx1XfWhlTfqSYKO06KwMUSMshNduT6p_1Y5-_1fcVq4y2Lkflrm3CMfwE8hIAaRHNVurLhWuLbMp1HoJzLv85_1vRsXG7ESHREK

You mean this engine runs now? Or do you have a stock engine and a bunch of parts? Or are you just using some of those parts? 3rd gear grind is pretty common on the old transmissions. Redline MT90 fixed one of mine that did that. There are a couple of good threads here about turboing - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/90-l-series/ and there's a whole sub-forum on Megasquirt.

It's not his car, it's his son's. Notice the tow hook, and the 2" ground clearance. It's a parking lot poser. Stretch is in these days. The most painful part of the whole experience will be the single touch of a curb taking the shine off of a new Diamond Racing wheel. But, kids need their space, to learn in. Here is the proper site, with some choice examples of what could be - http://www.stancenation.com/2013/12/30/one-mean-s15-takashi-kusunokis-silvia-s15/ http://www.stancenation.com/2014/08/10/royal-fitment-invasion-photo-coverage/ http://www.stancenation.com/

Seems like a radiator swap might be a better idea. Odd logic.

No. Don't do anything until you figure out which cable is the positive one and which is negative. Then make sure that the positive cable is connected to the battery terminal that has a "+" beside and the negative cable to the one that has a "-" beside it. You should find someone to help you out. This is very basic stuff, but you can do a lot of damage if you get it wrong.

You're actually pretty lucky that it's driveable. Bad things happen when these cars sit. There are two paths you could take - 1. Drive the piss out of it and see if things change. They do seem to like hard work. 2. Work your way through the Engine fuel chapter of the FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/), and/or the Electronic Fuel Injection Guide (http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html). Also, for some reason, many of the old EFI systems tend to run lean. The spitting and popping is typical. You could put a potentiometer on the coolant temperature circuit and dial in some extra fuel. The phone is going to be a problem for you though. Good luck.

One way to get close to zero is to set the camshaft sprocket notch on the groove on the compression stroke (lobes up). The damper pulley notch should be close to the zero line on the marker, visible for sure. If it's not, you might have damper problems. Also, if you get the marks all lined up, pop the distributor cap and make sure that you're rotor is pointing at the correct #1 plug wire, and that it's the one your light is on. Maybe you have some firing order weirdness.

Bad battery, dirty battery terminals, bad charger. Doesn't sound like a major problem. Are you connecting the charger to the proper terminals? Could be why you only get 12 on the voltmeter, it's not actually charging. The newer chargers can tell when they're connected backward and just won't do anything. And the Z battery cable colors are often backward. Check for the + and - signs on the battery. Clean the terminals. Make sure you have good battery cables.

You can get a digital thermometer with a small fast-acting probe for about $12 at Bed Bath and Beyond. Stick it in the coolant and see what it says. Overall, you're doing way too much guessing, with the temperature and the timing, and coil and the plugs (both of those guesses are way off).