NewZed

You mean the bolt, not the bushing...? On the noise, you've created a more solid path, aside from the tiny sliver of rubber at the small end of the arm, from the tires to the body, with the toe/camber adjuster. Delrin is pretty hard material. The on-off nature is probably just pavement quality. Bummer. On the other hand, if you were racing, it might be a fair indicator of available traction.

How is he going to get your engine?

What kind of noise are you hearing? Squeaking, banging, clunking? Are you sure that those are the cause? You did several things in one operation.

Have him install the head he offered on your short-block (edited - was long-block, got my shorts and longs mixed up) and get it running, with the condition that the camshaft has to survive and the engine has to run properly. That's what you're looking for and he's the pro. You'll avoid the typical expensive problems people run into when building their engines.

These two books are great resources. Not perfect, but they set the basic foundation that most people work from. http://www.amazon.com/Modify-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128049/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407883467&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+modify+your+dat http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=pd_sim_b_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1MSCXHH78BHW3Q5Q517A And this one is good for the car as a whole - http://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022/ref=pd_bxgy_b_text_z

I may be way off base here, but have you verified that the injectors are supposed to be open long enough to satisfy the air volume? In other words, does pulse width increase consistently as you pass through that lean zone. I'm not familiar with all of the MS variations but I copied a Megatune screenshot that shows what I mean. The pulse width should increase pretty closely with RPM, assuming a constant throttle setting. At least, it shouldn't stop increasing or go backward. Might be worth a look. I assume the Megatune data is what's supposed to happen, not what really happens. In other words, it's showing what MS is telling the injectors to do. I assume the flyback problem is the injectors not staying open as long as they're supposed to. There may even be a way to plot pulse width versus RPM, in a program like Excel, to look at the relationship.

If you can find a computer or a bigger phone the link below should help. And search for "colored wiring diagram" on classiczcars.com and you might get lucky. I know that there's a 1976 diagram over there. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/

Take them back off and make sure the light housings are seated properly on the surround. If I recall right there are three or four sizable Phillips head screws that connect the red light housings to the black surround. Maybe you forgot to tighten them. Also, notice how the big pictures from the internet show more clearly how things fit all the way around. Your closeup of a one area gap is not the same. Your picture doesn't really show much. Regardless, there's not much you can do until you take them back off.

Can't you just pull the seal from outside, like you would most other seals? Remove the crank damper, pry the seal out, press a new one in/on. Protect the edge of the seal from sharp edges when installing. Never done it, but the manual just says "press new oil seal in" to the timing cover.

You can look at examples using Google images. It's not right.

Where are you and how much are you offering?

Why would the pistons from a "master rebuild kit" not work with the head and cam? Something is weird and probably wrong. You need to list part numbers or links. Master rebuild kit is too general. If it is just a stock rebuild but with 0.040" pistons, and you get it put together right, I don't think that you've listed anything that will add power over the stock engine. From what I understand, the stock manifolds flow pretty well, so the headers won't add anything, and flow to and from the cylinders is restricted by the head, so no gains with the manifold and carb. These engines aren't like old small bccok chevys with small carburetors and restrictive exhaust manifolds. It actually sounds like you're about to put together an engine that won't run on pump gas with timing optimized for power. It will probably be down on power when you get it running, because of retarded timing. Better do some more research, take some measurements, and re-calculate.

You'll lose the safety features and the voltage/pump speed control. Noisier than necessary, more load on the electrical system at idle. But the Z31 ECCS can't control the pump without its associated relays, so if you don't have those you shouldn't be trying to use ECCS control anyway. The picture's from 1986. 1984 is similar. Around page 27-29 in the EFEC chapters.

Just curious as to how these things happen. I think that the stock 280Z tach counts six coil discharges as one revolution. So you'll have the signal problem to solve and the math problem of making four look like six. These adapters look interesting - http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/tachometer-adapters http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=127/prd127.htm http://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/SGI-8B.PDF

It's interesting to think about. I wouldn't call it a non-starter. With a lubricated bushing at the contact point of the mount and the control arm tube, the arm could probably pivot fine, But, with the stock rubber bushings deflecting side-to-side, the diff alignment would be off as you cornered. Using urethane bushings to stiffen things up, a lubricated metal bushing at the attachment points, and you're left with "can the tubes handle the load without bending?". Just a thought experiment, building on the AZC design. Application would matter. Drag-racing not a good idea, street car maybe fine. Apparently rags is using the AZC version, modified, post #17 - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119147-arizona-zcar-rear-suspension-design-function-flaw/

The voltmeter should always indicate system voltage, even with the key off. Most likely cause of your problem is dirty battery connections.

You don't need any of the wires from the factory harness to get the alternator to charge. You can run separate L and S wires, ground through the body or run an extra wire, and run a main charging wire to the battery or the starter lug. You should figure out how the alternator works first, you'll need to know that anyway even with another harness. Unless you're planning to go back the the external regulator. There is no easy path when working with the electrical system. Put the seeds down, open up the wiring diagram file, and get your meter out.

So the short nose diff mount system (actually two mounts), the front one, is an AZC product? I've looked all over the AZC site and didn't find it. I started another thread about it, since I've never seen it and there doesn't seem to be a simple mounting system out there. Seems like the concept could be applied to the stock control arms, maybe with a bushing that allows rotation and a bar connecting the two, like you describe.

Differential. Wheels. Half-shafts. Front struts.

Thanks for that. I looked through the AZC site for instructions or descriptions but didn't find that page. Funny that the page is called the "lowarms" page, but the picture doesn't show them lowered. Running them lowered would put a lot more turning torque on the inner tubes. And still not clear why you'd have plastic sleeves if you're "locking tightly". The two things don't go together. The overall path to this point seems cloudy. Still curious if anyone's seen any signs of movement. But if people are happy with the design, there's no need to change it.

Silvermine Motors is using the same design. Looks like they are aware of the roll center change possibility (better geometry, below), but are just using the clamping force of the stock brackets to keep the bars from spinning. Also looks like they could easily have put the heim ends on the same center line as the original arms. Interesting how these things come about, I wonder if the original goal was the geometry control or if it was recognized after the fact. http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-260z/suspension/rear-lower-control-arm-cnc-for-240z-260z-280z "These arms allow for full adjustment of the suspension geometry without having to remove any parts! They allow for on car adjustment of camber, and also the length is adjustable and the pick-up points can be raised for better geometry. Constructed of high grade T6061 aluminum. They can be anodized different colors per customer’s request. These control arms are extremely strong compared to factory parts, and they look BEAUTIFUL! Work great for extreme driving conditions. Please allow 2-3 weeks for delivery."

Actually, if you look at various pictures around the internet you'll see that big tube pivots also. Plus, AZC has what looks like Delrin bushings at the ends of the big tube. I thought the same thing and wondered about the effect of creating a shorter transverse link. But after looking around, decided that it's meant to pivot. Maybe it's not. If so, I don't know what the plastic end pieces are for. I started another thread about the AZC arms and how they work - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/119147-arizona-zcar-rear-suspension-design-function-flaw/?do=findComment&comment=1116443 But, if one wanted to, they could lock the big tube down, use the heim joints as the sole pivot, and the big tube could be welded or bolted to. You'd have the shorter control arm though, if that matters.

I didn't consider the half-shaft. Good point. As far as loads though, the outside wheel will be exerting a load directly across those three pivot points. The half-shafts and diff may well be taking up the load when buckling occurs. I wonder if people with the AZC system have extra diff or half-shaft problems. I've got locked in to wrong understanding before. But I think that the design here lends itself to buckling. Under normal driving conditions, the shift off center is probably small. But in a hard corner, with body roll, I think that it has to being trying to buckle. Once it's off center, there's nothing to stop it. Except maybe the half-shaft at full compression. As noted in another thread, maybe the big tubes don't spin. The assembly pieces, plastic (end bushings) and various pictures on the web (varying angles of the attachment points) seem to indicate that they do. Maybe I just don't get it. Why wouldn't you just attach the heim joints so they have the same pivot center as the original arms?

I've seen a variety of different error messages, and been able to get halfway on to the site, certain pages show but no links work. No problems now, using Windows 7 and Chrome. I've heard bad things about IE.

Seems like it could be a nice simple easy to make option. Who knows. On the Kindig It people - I see a reality car show in the future: http://www.kindigit.com/about-us.php