NewZed

I have a 78 ECU in my 76. The manual transmission Federal models seem to be the same over the years. The oil pump switch for the fuel pump showed up in 78. Of course, Nissan could have started early with some late 77's. A look at the AFM plug, and probing with a meter would tell.

A cheap axle option might be shown at about 6:55 in the video linked here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/117369-awesome-240z-on-youtube/

You should be able to create sparks all day long without harming or overheating anything. That's what happens when the engine is running. And it's actually "easier" for the coil to discharge across a fouled plug than a clean gap. Blowing a 20 amp fuse consistently is not good. There's something not right. Might be that your "dwell" or coil primary "on" time is too long. The coil primary circuits aren't getting broken to discharge the coils, and the long dwell is causing your fuse to blow. Or you have a short on the coil ground side that isn't allowing a complete circuit break. I would double-check the coil circuits and settings. Just a some impartial observations. I don't have any idea what specific MS circuits or settings would be involved.

Apparently I edited while you replied. You got my typo. Good catch. They're just the holes left over from casting the parts, plugged to complete the job. Occasionally they pop out when the coolant freezes. But it's just a coincidence, not intentional. Described in the link I added above.

Core plug. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug

The early tachs "watch" current flow on the positive wire to the coil, as I understand things. Either a threshold current or voltage rise and drop needs to be reached, I assume. Somehow, you need to get similar action on that wire. There's probably a way to do it using resistors and/or re-wiring or another circuit from MS that follows cylinder firing. The later tachs, like the 280Z's, follow the action on the coil negative wire. Probably just voltage rises and drops past some trigger value, since there is a hefty resistor on the the tachometer wire circuit in a 280Z. Get in to the principles and you might be able to fake something.

On the slotted spindle pins - is the slot wide enough to allow the bolt movement side-to-side? The nut on one end is going to pull the bolt in and clamp things down until it stops on either the lock pin or the bolt head. Just wondering if the slot is for anti-rotation alone or side-to-side location purpose, or both.

That's impressive and kind of weird. Is this home-made cider vinegar or some special brand? How do we reproduce these results?

Print the drawing from #3 and take it and your axle to the machinist. Replace six holes with four. Another complication to consider if you do make a thinner adapter - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/54719-cv-adapter-to-cv-shaft-issue-does-not-bolt-down-against-mating-surface/ There's threads everywhere on this topic. Here's another adapter. It's six bolt and looks thick. I wonder if guys are making them thick to get the axle nut to clear the CV end-cap. More measurements needed. http://www.whiteheadperformance.com/products/billet-280zxt-cv-axle-adapters-27-spline-datsun-240z-260z-280z/

Back to your original dilemma, to trust the shop, or to trust your faulty measurements: probably best to get the right measurements before you do anything. You can't make a good decision until you know what you're dealing with.

Don't have an answer but curious if you mean that .005" is the range that you get measuring the same spot (your measurement error range), or if you mean that the head thickness varies by .005", from side-to-side, end-to-end. They're both bad, one means you're not sure what your measurements really are, the other means the shop didn't keep things very parallel and/or flat.

Don't they all look like that at the bottom. It's the rest of the tube and its bends that matter, right? The whole thing.

These might help. "fe" is for Fuel and Exhaust. The attached picture is from the 1982 version. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

I did a little more looking around and found that DIYA specifies that they're Hall sensor works with their square-tooth wheels. Implying that they don't work well with the pointy teeth wheels. So the sensor might not work with the 24-2 Toyota wheel (I have no idea what tooth shape Toyota has). http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/trigger_wheels_index.htm For anyone thinking about just getting a DIYA Hall sensor to solve a trigger problem. There's more to it.

I think that this guy used to make a kit for the L6 engine. Worth a look, and maybe an e-mail, he would probably know, or might make a custom one for you. http://www.mazworx.com/products/drivetrain/enginetrans-adapter-kits/complete-adapter-kits/

The cap only lets air in, through a spring-loaded valve. Not out. There's no easy solution. Unless you confused air escaping with air entering. Air entering wouldn't cause a "burn" though. Find the charcoal canister, or the lines to it, and make them work. p.s. Use more capital letters.

Just a note for anyone getting 404 errors. This seems to work to get to the page that comes up in the search engine - insert index.php in between org/ and /topic. Before ................hybridz.org/topic/............. After ...............hybridz.org/index.php/topic/................... Just something to use to get by in the meantime. Edit - the above doesn't work anymore. Google brings up a link with the word forum now, instead of topic. Completely replace the word forum with index.php/topic and you'll get there. Hopefully this is irrelevant after Friday.

Take the multimeter you used to check the wire, turn the knob to DC voltage, and check for power on the ignition circuit. The coil (or coils, depending on ignition setup) is a good place to start. Describing the ignition system and EMS you're using would help people give you some better guesses. It's not a 1978 280Z anymore.

The factory system has a vented fuel tank. Sounds like yours are clogged or someone blocked them off. Maybe to get rid of "emissions crap". Check your vents. There's a nice diagram out there somewhere of all of the various hoses and valves.

Whatever failed probably powered both the fuel pump and something else. The something else still needs power. Maybe the ignition system.

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/906323-finally-started-my-r33-diff-swap/ Post #10

To add to Tony D's post, if you go to an auto parts store with the old bearing or just say 6203 they'll probably walk right to the back, grab one off the shelf and send you on your way. That's what I did, and that's what they did. Apparently it's a very common automotive bearing, even today.

You know it's the idler for the AC compressor belt, right?

Not an expert. But I think you need a wheel with magnetic teeth to drive a Hall effect sensor. The Hall effect is what happens when you push a magnet through an electric field. With the steel DIY wheel you need a VR sensor. Which is what you already have with the 24-2 Toyota setup. You'll just be replacing one VR wheel with another and installing a sensor that won't work right with either. Edit - Never mind the above. They must have developed sensors based on the Hall effect that will read a steel tooth's effect as it passes by. They say it works. Good luck. Not sure why the sensor wouldn't work with your 24-2 setup though. A VR sensor should be able to pick up tiny voltage pulses. If you can't get the Megasquirt circuitry to do it directly, you could probably use a GM HEI module to amplify and condition the VR signal. I think it's described out there somewhere.

Only if you can't stand the heat.