NewZed

The case study in Cramer and Hoffmann;s Performance Fuel Injection Systems book is informative, Page 142 specifically. It could probably be read in less than an hour.

Here's the commonly used write-up on swapping the ignitor with an HEI module. The HEI module will respond to the signal from the ECU like it does the signal from the VR in an NA engine's distributor, apparently. The main difference would be that the HEI module and ECU would be competing for dwell control. It seems to work though. http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/285085-hei-ignition-control-module-swap-info-turbos-only.html

Sounds like the hot start / heat soak problem. The injectors and/or fuel rail get hot and fuel metering gets screwed up. It's a fairly common problem. The low oil pressure is probably from the low RPM idle.

Everything he needs is in the the picture you posted in #16. Where to look for the mark, what the dimension for the hub should be and where to measure from, and the dimensions of the matching "distance piece". Illustrated, with arrows. There's even enough information in the chart to have a new one made, if he has the means to measure the hub width. Maybe he's on a phone...

Re Post #15 - I quoted what you said, but interpreted what was said differently. The MS igniton control algorithm calculates ahead to control dwell and advance. All it needs is to know where the crankshaft is in its rotation. The page linked below, about using the Pertronix Ignitor in a locked distributor, probably describes it best. This is said often, but the Megamanual and DIY information is scattered, poorly organized, misleading, full of holes and just really hard to figure out. Even the page I link here, labeled as a Pertronix-oriented page, is really just about using the VR input to use a locked distributor to control ignition timing. From the page "When you do this, the PerTronix functions as a sensor for the MegaSquirt, with the MegaSquirt firing the coil." Pertronix is a tiny piece of it, just another sensor, and the page label is probably putting off many people that could use the information, with other sensors to the VR input. It all boils down to getting a consistent solid signal in to MS that lets it know where the crankshaft is positioned. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_megasquirt_with_pertronix_ignitor.htm

The passage from the Megamanual that you might be referring to is not really clearly written. What they're saying is that MS needs a signal that is locked to crank position. That's what locking the advance mechanisms in the distributor does. The part about controlling off of the coil terminal is about injection control only, not ignition. With a locked distributor feeding a signal to MS that is locked to crank position, you can do ignition timing control. When the Megamanual guys say "tach signal" they just mean the signal that MS is using to know crankshaft speed. "MegaSquirt-II™ controllers can be triggered from the negative terminal of the coil, just like MS-I, as long as MS-II™ is not being used to control the ignition timing. However, if you are controlling the ignition timing, then the tach signal must be fixed with respect to the crank position (not vary with the advance timing like the coil signal)."

It means you're using batch mode for injection, and a single coil for spark. The distributor is getting the spark to the right plugs. Your distributor's VR is being used by MS. Your setup is one level up from the simplest. You're going to spend hours on the forum asking one question at a time. There's really no way around reading on the DIYAutotune and Megamanual sites. Or Cramer and Hoffmann have written a nice book on the fundamentals of electronic engine management. Not that spendy. http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Fuel-Injection-Systems-HP1557/dp/1557885575

I don't think that air causes pulling. One of the principles of hydraulics is equal pressure everywhere. The bubble can be on one side, compressing, but the pressure on both sides will be the same.

Blue (atlanticz) has pictures of everything. #3. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/46506-reaction-disk.html

Open the Megamanual link, click "V3 Assembly", use "CTRL-F" to open a text search box (if you're using Windows), type "TSEL" in to the box and see where it takes you. Looks like you're set up for the VR sensor that is used in the distributor you asked about. You'll have to look around a little more to see if you want your VR input to be inverted. 52. Select the tach input circuit with jumpers: For the VR sensor: Jumper VRIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB (near the DB37, opposite the heat sink.) Jumper TSEL to VROUT (Or VROUTINV if you want the VR input to be inverted) on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center. OR (Do NOT install both sets of jumpers, chose one set or the other!) For the Hall sensor, optical sensor, coil negative terminal or points: Jumper XG1 to XG2 on the bottom side of the PCB, near the 40 pin socket, Jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink. Jumper TSEL to OPTOOUT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center.

It just gets better... You need to at least put some minutes in if you're going to ask someone else to do some work for you. A better description than the "little connector in the middle" would be a great place to start. Find the numbers on the circuit board or use Photoshop to draw a circle.

Astounding. Incredible. Amazing. Something new will always come along. Gobsmacked. This might help - http://www.megamanual.com/index.html

TimZ makes a good point about modified parts. I almost posted something about whether or not that cam is factory or a regrind, if it's a regrind the mark may be irrelevant. But if it's a stock cam the marks should still be aligned, even if they're not optimum. The mark tells you what position the valves are in (since they're at the ends of the lobes), in relation to the pistons. The before and after picture in the FSM is 4 degrees. You're cam is about 8 - 10 degrees advanced. Looking back to your Tuning with Vacuum Gauge post I wonder if you don't have some bent valves. It's like a super bad permanent miss. Or that's just how an engine runs when the cam is way off-time. Could also explain your high pressure numbers, although those measurements are gauge dependent (I get 185 with my gauge on a stock 78 engine) . I think Tony D was on the trail with his comment about adjusting the valves, and starting with a basic full tune-up. Pistons and valves opening and closing at the correct times and to the proper distances is the heart of the combustion cycle. You need to find square one and try to get there if you can. Checking the cam timing is a great starting point, but now you have to fix it.

I was referring to the picture in the book. As the chain wears the notch (in the sprocket) lags the oblong groove (bolted to the cam tower). The valves open later. In the picture, "before adjustment" shows a stretched chain (valves opening late), "after adjustment" shows it repositioned so that the valves open sooner. Your notch has the valves opening waaayyy sooner. IF the tight side of the chain is tight. You can also think of it as the straight side. It's the side of the chain that gets pulled when the crankshaft is turning. It needs to be tight to know what is actually happening when the engine is running. The distributor has nothing to do with what you're looking at. It and the oil pump are in a whole separate world.

A new player. Had not heard of them. Not much on the web site, not even the typical "About" page. it looks like a Hungarian guy (customer service in two languages) named Jason is selling kits. Looks like there's a guy named Rob in the UK also. Anyway, back to choosing, for the OP....

Before you go further, make sure the tight side of the chain (driver's side) is actually tight. If you're moving the crankshaft back and forth, you could have the tight side loose. Set the pulley mark at zero and use a wrench on the sprocket bolt to tighten it up, without moving the crankshaft. If it is tight, then it looks likes someone was anticipating a lot of chain wear. You're in the after-after adjustment zone. Pretty sure I've seen where guys have advanced the sprocket and cam to the 2 hole to move the power curve to the low end. Gives the feel of more power, but the top end is gone. If so, move it to hole 1 and see where things end up. Don't forget to wedge the chain. Nice pictures.

Assuming money is no object since you've left it open, this option looks pretty good. Take it to a shop and have it professionally installed. That would be close to the "best" you can do. http://www.electromotive-inc.com/product/total-engine-control/ http://www.electromotivestore.com/engine-management/electromotive-tecgt-ecu.php

Consider the HEI module replacement. At least it's a new part. Apparently it runs the coil just fine using the ECU square wave instead of the GM VR signal. Skittle wrote it up on zcar.com. Just a cheap option.

If the engine runs well, and it's the hoses that are cracking, you could replace hose alone for about $5. If you're going to run stock injectors, there's really no point in getting an aftermarket rail, except looks and maybe ease of installation.

A before-and-after cause-effect process might help you. You mentioned the ZX alternator swap but didn't say if that was the only thing you did, or if it worked just before the swap, but not after. You said the engine ran then died and hasn't started since, last year. What's happened in that year? You're getting voltage sometimes - voltage to where? You have a brand new coil - was it replaced to fix the problem, or replaced before the problem? Can't tell what happened when. Ballast resistors don't generally go bad when they're just sitting. As for measuring coil voltage, you can measure power to the ballast also, it's sitting right there with terminals exposed. And, the ballast and coil only get power when the key is on. In case you've been measuring with the key off. Here's the easy link to the FSM's. Try the Engine Electrical chapter for some diagrams. http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals

Did you add the part about pumping the brakes, in the first post? Didn't see it yesterday. That says air in the system. These types of swaps, in general, seem to be notorious for not having the bleed hole at the very top of the caliper's internal passages, when mounted. Even off just a little bit, the air will sit there while the fluid flows out the bleed hole. The external hole may not be a direct shot to the internal high point either. They all seem to take some finagling.

Actually it just monitors how fast things change. Dramatic changes in the slope of the speed-time curve, within one turn of the shaft (per the ad copy). It's tunable too, so in the long run, tooth number won't matter if you're in the ball-park. Just saying, it's not critical to know the number of teeth. On the other hand, more teeth might give higher resolution to the processor, and signal quality from the sensor would be important. Same as crank triggered ignition, probably more so. "The TMS-Drag-Sportsman is our entry level Traction Control system. This Non Self-Learning system monitors the drive shaft speed and reacts to any sudden increase in that speed. The user can adjust the threshold of over acceleration that will cause a correction (AFR)." Pretty cool technology. Here's more on the "How Does It Work" page - http://www.moretraction.com/howdoesitwork_drag.htm On the other hand, if it has a speedometer function included, then you might need the numbers. Unless that's tunable also. I'm done. Just wanted to make that point...

Seems like Megasquirt should be able to control a relay using an ignition signal. Just a thought. Here's a link that might offer something. http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/common_megasquirt_modifications.htm

My impression has been that they're the same for all of the S30's. This reference shows one part for the all years (scroll down to the part description to see the year range) - http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Axle/FrontSuspension/tabid/1729/Default.aspx If it's a later, big-bumper 260Z then the odds are close to 100%.

Just post the story, if the moderators feel it's out of line they'll let you know, and delete it. But, did you let the guy know what you got? He may have just passed on what he thought he was getting. Give him a chance to make it right first.