NewZed

Never mind, couldn't resist (I had something else here). clocker, read some of Tony D's other posts before you get too carried away.

The internet says that that pump should work. It's DC and directional though and the motor will run backward if the wires are. Could be that your old pump was okay and the original problem is still there. Measure fuel pressure.

Never mind. Wasted words.

Using the motor and transmission as a jig is a good idea. One step back (or forward depending on perspective) would be to take the measurements from the assembled motor and transmission. Or make a jig from the motor and transmission. Wood, scrap steel, plastic, whatever material you feel comfortable with. p.s. the point about multiple dimensions in the FSM drawing is that you can determine what's right with math. They're not all wrong, and as was noted above, it's not wrong in all of the FSM's. The good news is that all of these suggestions are most likely more accurate than measuring from the firewall, which does not appear to be precisely located during manufacturing.

Sounds reasonable. Might be worth removing the check valve to see if you can fix it. That's about where the blockage would be if it's in the pump. Even so the pump bodies are designed to handle pressure. Maybe your leak was on the inlet side and you were sucking air. You could measure fuel pressure, to be sure it's the pump.

Pump failing to pump and pump leaking might be two different problems, as well as engine as running crappily. The Airtex E8312 is the common parts store replacement pump. It's not very noisy and seems to work fine, generally, although some people have problems, I've had one for about three years. Lots of people seem to complain about noise from the MSD225 (or Walbro, same thing I believe). How it's mounted is important. Another option is a used Bosch brand pump from a wrecking yard Ford pickup (with EFI - might take some fittings work). Sometimes used factory pieces are better than new aftermarket.

I jumped in to the middle of your thread so that's my mistake. The splines are at the center of the leverage from the steering wheel and the steering gear so they see a lot of force. Teflon tape or any of the softer plastics based solutions won't last long, they'll just get pressed out on tight or bumpy corners over time, as you noted. Seems like the safety concern is up and down the shaft and the problem is rotational. If you could test the first while evaluating the second you might find a good compromise. JB Weld with one set of splines lubricated might allow the sliding for safety but tighten up the joint for handling. Clean one side and wax the other. Test sliding action before re-installation. Full disclosure: I don't even know if you can take the two pieces apart. If not, the fine wire option seems reasonable.

Why not just use a clamp in the same place as the Vise-Grips were? You could probably find something small that looks like it belongs there and does the job.

Get three. They're small.

The pump pulls from the bottom hose and pushes the water through the block, up in to the head, through the thermostat and in to the top hose. There's a diagram, with arrows, in the FSM (of course), in the appropriately named chapter.

The top radiator hose is on the down-stream side of the thermostat, where pressure would be lower if the T-stat was closed and the pump was pumping. Your top hose would not be overly pressurized. With no flow I think that the temp gauge would still get hotter if the engine was over-heating, which it should do if the T-stat doesn't open. There's a small whole in the T-stat that allows coolant to pass through. There's something off in your theory of what's happening. Might not have anything to do with the thermostat, that's why changing it had no effect.

The FSM doesn't even call out the dimension to the firewall, from anywhere, that I can see. Doesn't look like a good reference point. Why trust somebody's shaky tape measure hand when there are several ways to cross-check the FSM numbers, and/or back out a super-simple dimension like to the top of the front strut?

I was kidding, kind of. Non Tech for the story, and engine related for your problem. With the throttle closed not much air can pass through the engine. So the AFM doesn't do much. You can suck oil past the oil rings and through the valve seals though, especially on a high mileage engine, as the cylinders go from pressurized to vacuum with not much air passing through. How do the plugs look? That might tell you something.

This thread should be in the Non Tech Board forum.

You're right, my mistake. I was sure I had one that was a press fit. Must have been a different engine(s). Subtract that wrongness and the rest of what I wrote stands. Carry on.

You could also just put the spring back where it was. Much cheaper than buying a new one. Most of the procedures you find on the web recommend marking your starting point. Which is a good idea for almost everything you modify.

In to a plastic grommet? With adhesive? I think it's meant for permanent installation with no rotation. At least on the 280Z and ZX covers I've seen. In other words, he can spin it all he wants, it's not going to get tighter. The plastic base is broken.

Those aren't points. The proper term would be electrodes or contacts. You have electronic ignition already, the ZX won't be any better unless you have a bad ignition module. Since the engine runs, that's not very likely. Seems more like a carburetor problem. Did you leave the choke on? You should describe what carburetors you have for the carb people.

The hose from the valve cover is part of the PCV system. The L shaped metal fitting from the top of the cover is just a press fit with adhesive in to a grommet, I believe, or something similar. It's not threaded. You have to seal that if you're running EFI. If your engine runs clean you can get away with heater hose for the valve cover hose. It only sees fumes if you have more blowby than the PCV valve and its hose underneath the manifold can handle. The flame arrester is an individual call. A piece of brass scrubbing pad would probably do the same job. I think it only sees flame in extreme cases.

You are going to have a hell of a time with that RB25DET swap...

Use Google images and type in "280Z sway bar end links" or cut and paste from here. A bent sway bar could probably affect rear wheel alignment also. And don't forget to check your brake lines. They could have snagged something or been stretched. The wheel lugs too, even though they didn't break, could be stretched or damaged. If the front end went over the curb, parts up there need a good look. The TC rods can bend or get a crack started that will fail later. Even if you get a new shell, these parts need a good inspection if you're going to re-use some.

Doesn't your problem seem similar to johnc's in Post #30 here? - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113462-rear-wheel-stub-axle-play-help-needed/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1086574

Where are you?

Maybe, subconsciously, you were just looking for a reason to build another car. You crashed on purpose. Do the doors and hatch open and close properly? If not, you'll always be reminded that the car's not-quite-right.

Not really sure what you mean by rivets. I don't see any projecting rivets on my spare clutch disc and can't imagine any projecting in from the pressure plate to where they might rub. Pictures? (damaged parts are always fun to look at). I have rubbed the springs in a clutch hub on the flywheel bolts when I put it in backward. That was a small block chevy.