NewZed

Get three. They're small.

The pump pulls from the bottom hose and pushes the water through the block, up in to the head, through the thermostat and in to the top hose. There's a diagram, with arrows, in the FSM (of course), in the appropriately named chapter.

The top radiator hose is on the down-stream side of the thermostat, where pressure would be lower if the T-stat was closed and the pump was pumping. Your top hose would not be overly pressurized. With no flow I think that the temp gauge would still get hotter if the engine was over-heating, which it should do if the T-stat doesn't open. There's a small whole in the T-stat that allows coolant to pass through. There's something off in your theory of what's happening. Might not have anything to do with the thermostat, that's why changing it had no effect.

The FSM doesn't even call out the dimension to the firewall, from anywhere, that I can see. Doesn't look like a good reference point. Why trust somebody's shaky tape measure hand when there are several ways to cross-check the FSM numbers, and/or back out a super-simple dimension like to the top of the front strut?

I was kidding, kind of. Non Tech for the story, and engine related for your problem. With the throttle closed not much air can pass through the engine. So the AFM doesn't do much. You can suck oil past the oil rings and through the valve seals though, especially on a high mileage engine, as the cylinders go from pressurized to vacuum with not much air passing through. How do the plugs look? That might tell you something.

This thread should be in the Non Tech Board forum.

You're right, my mistake. I was sure I had one that was a press fit. Must have been a different engine(s). Subtract that wrongness and the rest of what I wrote stands. Carry on.

You could also just put the spring back where it was. Much cheaper than buying a new one. Most of the procedures you find on the web recommend marking your starting point. Which is a good idea for almost everything you modify.

In to a plastic grommet? With adhesive? I think it's meant for permanent installation with no rotation. At least on the 280Z and ZX covers I've seen. In other words, he can spin it all he wants, it's not going to get tighter. The plastic base is broken.

Those aren't points. The proper term would be electrodes or contacts. You have electronic ignition already, the ZX won't be any better unless you have a bad ignition module. Since the engine runs, that's not very likely. Seems more like a carburetor problem. Did you leave the choke on? You should describe what carburetors you have for the carb people.

The hose from the valve cover is part of the PCV system. The L shaped metal fitting from the top of the cover is just a press fit with adhesive in to a grommet, I believe, or something similar. It's not threaded. You have to seal that if you're running EFI. If your engine runs clean you can get away with heater hose for the valve cover hose. It only sees fumes if you have more blowby than the PCV valve and its hose underneath the manifold can handle. The flame arrester is an individual call. A piece of brass scrubbing pad would probably do the same job. I think it only sees flame in extreme cases.

You are going to have a hell of a time with that RB25DET swap...

Use Google images and type in "280Z sway bar end links" or cut and paste from here. A bent sway bar could probably affect rear wheel alignment also. And don't forget to check your brake lines. They could have snagged something or been stretched. The wheel lugs too, even though they didn't break, could be stretched or damaged. If the front end went over the curb, parts up there need a good look. The TC rods can bend or get a crack started that will fail later. Even if you get a new shell, these parts need a good inspection if you're going to re-use some.

Doesn't your problem seem similar to johnc's in Post #30 here? - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/113462-rear-wheel-stub-axle-play-help-needed/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1086574

Where are you?

Maybe, subconsciously, you were just looking for a reason to build another car. You crashed on purpose. Do the doors and hatch open and close properly? If not, you'll always be reminded that the car's not-quite-right.

Not really sure what you mean by rivets. I don't see any projecting rivets on my spare clutch disc and can't imagine any projecting in from the pressure plate to where they might rub. Pictures? (damaged parts are always fun to look at). I have rubbed the springs in a clutch hub on the flywheel bolts when I put it in backward. That was a small block chevy.

The main purpose of Hybridz, as I understand it, is to discuss ways to add pep. Have you browsed through some of the threads? Check out the FAQ's section. Rebuilding an L24 wouldn't be high on anyone's list of ways to add pep though. What does TL;DR stand for?

The only thing that keeps any engine from destroying itself is control of the air supply. If you have too many RPM then you are letting in too much air. Check all avenues for air in to the cylinders.

I had one that leaked through the clutch fork pivot pin (with the ball on the end). The threads are through the front cover. If you took the pin out and didn't seal the threads when you re-installed that could be your source.

Here's a link to classiczcars.com that might work for you. Not really easy though. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content/201-honda-wiper-motor-upgrade-240z.html Another option is Philbin in Portland, OR. They'll clean up the motor and replace any broken parts for a very reasonable cost. At least they did for me a few years ago. http://www.philbingroup.com/

You need to measure fuel pressure after you shut the engine down and before you start to know if the fuel rail is draining. If the rail is at zero when you hit the starter the engine will just keep cranking until the rial fills and re-pressurizes. My 76 280Z has not had a cold start valve for the last few years. I went out last week after it had sat for a few days in the garage and it fired right up after about five revolutions. When I had an FPR that leaked down it would take longer, although not as bad as you're describing. You might also have weak spark. Check the grounds on your ignitor (power transformer) and its mounting bracket. During starting spark is weaker since battery power is sucked up by the starter. If you have a weak transformer it might cause starting problems. I had an ignition module once that would only start the engine with starting fluid but ran okay once the engine started.

Be aware that if you go to a typical parts store and ask for 280ZXT alternator you'll most likely get a 60 amp unit.

Have you tried your local Nissan dealer?

I wonder if these sellers, and maybe Nissan too, don't have multiple sources for what they sell under their names. I couldn't even find the Beck/Arnley gasket on their e-catalog (which they seem to think is fantastic) unless I had the part number first, 037-3936, and the picture may or may not be correct. But it doesn't show the metal crush ring. Looks like paper too. http://www.beckcatalog.com/# http://www.beckarnley.com/beckarnleycatalog.html Looks better on Amazon. Same company, different picture - http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-037-3936-Exhaust-Manifold/dp/B000CAVLYC Looks like no way to tell what you're getting, over the internet. p.s. Is "graphite" really the material used on some of the gaskets or did someone just give it that name because it's black and looks fibrous, like graphite fiber composites? Edit - some of the parts people refer might just be NLA. There's a 1978 Beck/Arnley 037-3951 gasket, wholesaler closeout, on Rockauto that does not come up on BeckArnley's catalog (above). The "good" gaskets may not be available anymore as normal stock items, only NOS.