NewZed

Problems

What's cylinder pressure now? Did you clean a lot of carbon from the piston and combustion chamber? Curious. I've seen signs that the intake valves were getting cleaner on my old engine, that had obviously sat for many years before I got it. They were cleaner when I finally took it out than when I changed the manifold gasket, after about 20,000 more miles. I had seen the same as you and wondered about cleaning up the backs of the valves. They were nasty looking. To Xnke's suggestion, modern gas and hard driving to get lots of flushing on the back of the valve might be the way to go. A good reason to go have some fun. You're cleaning your valves.

Which method, three were mentioned? Seafoam, water or walnut shells.

Thanks for correcting me. With that in mind, and a little more digging in the FSM, you'll find that all of the information needed is in the Rear Axle chapter. L1 and L2 in the drawing, numbers in the chart. With the measurement tool of your choice you don't need the letters anymore. Not to argue, but it looks like with tolerances there's a lot of overlap, but the goal (blueprint) might be to have the strut housing ~.010 - .020" bigger than the distance piece. Just looking at the numbers. Really though, they look pretty sloppy and essentially just centered. Maybe those are just starting points and the "adjustment" procedure that Nissan never describes, to get preload and end play, is what sets the final distance. If adjustment is nut torque then there's some compression of the distance piece, If they mean disassembly and adjusting piece distance then there's more labor involved.

I made a comment earlier about the bearing system being designed for hot running, but it's probably not that much of a factor in this case since all of the materials are similar. I had transmission countershaft bearings in mind, which are set on steel shafts in an aluminum housing. and preloaded for proper clearance when they heat up. The strut materials would all expand at close to the same rate. If you look at the attached drawing you'll see that the seating area for the outer races is in line with the inner races. I think that the distance spacer is meant to match that outer racing seat distance, to center the balls in the races when everything is assembled. You wouldn't want the balls riding on the sides of the races since the loads on them shift from side to side and up and down. If I was starting from scratch or "blueprinting" my struts I would measure that area, from outer race seat to outer race seat, on each strut and make the "distance piece" match it. That's where my logic takes me. There might be more to it. Edit - forgot to say that the inner and outer diameters of the distance piece probably aren't that critical as long as the ends are flat and parallel and offer a good seating area for the inner bearing races. When everything is compressed by the axle nut the two inner races and the piece essentially form a solid tube of steel.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-New-Bracket-Brace-Differential-Nose-Support-Bar-69-78-/151170316498?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item233273f8d2&vxp=mtr Don't really see any benefits over stock. But there it is. In retrospect I do remember seeing this, and noting that it is sold by DatsunPartsLLC, a guy of suspect credentials in the Z car field. But he has a lot of parts for sale.

With the right surface prep an automotive adhesive might be better than welding or bolting, at least for portions of the new rails. Especially considering all of the surface area available, and stress distribution. One company's web site. There are others. Might have to register to see details. http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives.xml

The quickest way to check the coolant temp sensor is with a meter at the ECU connector. Does your friend have one and know how to use it? Three phillips head screws and you're in. Nobody can tell you over the web if the ECU is getting the right information. Have you opened up the 1980 Fuel Injection Guide yet, or the Factory Service Manual? They're on the internet and free. It looks like the only work you've done is to tear things apart and guess wrong in putting them back together, with no reading at all. Read up and catch up and some of your questions will be answered. There's not much anyone out here can do for you if you don't even know the basics. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/ Use the 1980 EFI guide it covers 1978 too - http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

Dang, I knew that one would show up if I said they didn't exist...

You did not "PROPERLY" delete those parts. You need to go back and absorb the information about what those things do and how they work, and how the EFI and ignition systems work in general, so that you can figure out how to properly remove them. There's no easy way out from your situation. EGR is in the Emissions chapter, ignition is in Engine Electrical, and EFI is in Engine Fuel. You have some things hooked up incorrectly for sure, and probably some broken electrical circuits. Get out out of the "simple solution" mind-set and in to the "this will take some work" mind-set. Accept the fact that you screwed up and move on. People have been doing what you did since emission control systems were introduced.

That was my guess also. A stock cross member with new bushings and you should be golden. There's no aftermarket part because there's no demand. Nobody would buy them.

As noted in a previous post, you'll need the FSM for that. Try the Body Electrical (BE) chapter. The wiring diagram and wire colors offer clues also. Most people don't see their relays unless they stop working,and they don't fail that often. Even if they do, a few weeks after you fix them they all look the same again. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

Use ears, with method on EF-13 to run pump. Add fuel pressure measurement to quantify findings. You could also pull the line off of the filter outlet and see if anything comes out. At least you have power if the pump is what you're actually hearing.

Classic mistake. Should have read up on what those things do and how they work before removing. Check that you haven't switched the coolant temperature sensor with the thermotime switch. Even better, measure resistance at the ECU connector to be sure the ECU is getting what it needs. Do some Googling on vacuum advance and ported vacuum.

The OP should do a little more work on determining the cause of the cracks. Strengthening the inner diff mounts won't help the outer contact points. The outer cross member mounting points have the leverage advantage over the inner diff mounting points. Probably be just fine with a stock replacement cross member.

Give it a tune-up. But fix your vacuum leaks first, lean mixture plus cold = hard-starting. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115703-idle-drop-and-popping-sounds-from-intake/?do=findComment&comment=1084488

You have this car, engine and Megasquirt and you're wondering if the coil needs to have the case grounded to get a spark? - 77 280z - L28et, Megasquirt MS1v3 5.6 volts at the positive, if you had 12 at the battery, is a sign that you have current flow on that circuit. The fuel pump running is not a good sign. You have an error somewhere, and it looks like a long road ahead to figure it out. http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html#ms1

Might be beyond your budget - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-5010 PM borini63. He parts a lot of cars. Or you could just go to the JY and count circuits. The fuses are replaceable and the wire gauge comes from the harness.

Could be that the fuel rail is draining. Bad FPR or bad fuel pump check valve. Use a pressure gauge to see.

How about a 14" half-round file? http://www.amazonsupply.com/simonds-american-pattern-half-round-coating/dp/B006P2YIPU/ref=sr_1_3?sr=1-3&qid=1384744711

No offense to AZ intended, but that answer isn't that great. You don't need to mess with the ignition system. The ignition module is not part of the EFI system, although the EFI system does use it for injection timing. And there's no reason to mess with the fusible links - same reason, it's not part of the EFI harness.

The water temp gauge has nothing to do with the water temp sensor. The gauge uses a completely different sender and wire. What kind of meter are you using? 0 and 001 don't sound right (Post 44). Find something of known resistance, like an old injector or the AAR, and measure it. An injector will be about 2.5 ohms, the AAR about 60. And the setting on the meter needs to be high than what you expect. The 2000 ohm range won't measure over 2000 ohms. That might explain the 001. Does the meter have instructions with it? Search around the internet for "how to measure resistance" or "how to use a multimeter". You need a little bit of training.

Air conditioner.

Don't overlook weight.

Take a picture and post it, just for fun. If it's as you described, there should/could be much more damage. The pilot bushing holds the nose of the main shaft centered and should have put leverage on your bearings, possibly damaging them. Gears could be damaged from mis-alignment after the bearing got damaged. The tip of the shaft might be damaged. The clutch might be damaged from flexing. The transmission case should be damaged if any of the bolts are tightened properly and the transmission is tilted. Overall, you might have destroyed the transmission. On the good side, though, the screeching from the first transmission might have just been the throwout bearing. Worth double-checking. Your clutch probably stopped working once the transmission tilted and cocked the clutch disc.