NewZed

You did not "PROPERLY" delete those parts. You need to go back and absorb the information about what those things do and how they work, and how the EFI and ignition systems work in general, so that you can figure out how to properly remove them. There's no easy way out from your situation. EGR is in the Emissions chapter, ignition is in Engine Electrical, and EFI is in Engine Fuel. You have some things hooked up incorrectly for sure, and probably some broken electrical circuits. Get out out of the "simple solution" mind-set and in to the "this will take some work" mind-set. Accept the fact that you screwed up and move on. People have been doing what you did since emission control systems were introduced.

That was my guess also. A stock cross member with new bushings and you should be golden. There's no aftermarket part because there's no demand. Nobody would buy them.

As noted in a previous post, you'll need the FSM for that. Try the Body Electrical (BE) chapter. The wiring diagram and wire colors offer clues also. Most people don't see their relays unless they stop working,and they don't fail that often. Even if they do, a few weeks after you fix them they all look the same again. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

Use ears, with method on EF-13 to run pump. Add fuel pressure measurement to quantify findings. You could also pull the line off of the filter outlet and see if anything comes out. At least you have power if the pump is what you're actually hearing.

Classic mistake. Should have read up on what those things do and how they work before removing. Check that you haven't switched the coolant temperature sensor with the thermotime switch. Even better, measure resistance at the ECU connector to be sure the ECU is getting what it needs. Do some Googling on vacuum advance and ported vacuum.

The OP should do a little more work on determining the cause of the cracks. Strengthening the inner diff mounts won't help the outer contact points. The outer cross member mounting points have the leverage advantage over the inner diff mounting points. Probably be just fine with a stock replacement cross member.

Give it a tune-up. But fix your vacuum leaks first, lean mixture plus cold = hard-starting. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115703-idle-drop-and-popping-sounds-from-intake/?do=findComment&comment=1084488

You have this car, engine and Megasquirt and you're wondering if the coil needs to have the case grounded to get a spark? - 77 280z - L28et, Megasquirt MS1v3 5.6 volts at the positive, if you had 12 at the battery, is a sign that you have current flow on that circuit. The fuel pump running is not a good sign. You have an error somewhere, and it looks like a long road ahead to figure it out. http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html#ms1

Might be beyond your budget - http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/50-5010 PM borini63. He parts a lot of cars. Or you could just go to the JY and count circuits. The fuses are replaceable and the wire gauge comes from the harness.

Could be that the fuel rail is draining. Bad FPR or bad fuel pump check valve. Use a pressure gauge to see.

How about a 14" half-round file? http://www.amazonsupply.com/simonds-american-pattern-half-round-coating/dp/B006P2YIPU/ref=sr_1_3?sr=1-3&qid=1384744711

No offense to AZ intended, but that answer isn't that great. You don't need to mess with the ignition system. The ignition module is not part of the EFI system, although the EFI system does use it for injection timing. And there's no reason to mess with the fusible links - same reason, it's not part of the EFI harness.

The water temp gauge has nothing to do with the water temp sensor. The gauge uses a completely different sender and wire. What kind of meter are you using? 0 and 001 don't sound right (Post 44). Find something of known resistance, like an old injector or the AAR, and measure it. An injector will be about 2.5 ohms, the AAR about 60. And the setting on the meter needs to be high than what you expect. The 2000 ohm range won't measure over 2000 ohms. That might explain the 001. Does the meter have instructions with it? Search around the internet for "how to measure resistance" or "how to use a multimeter". You need a little bit of training.

Air conditioner.

Don't overlook weight.

Take a picture and post it, just for fun. If it's as you described, there should/could be much more damage. The pilot bushing holds the nose of the main shaft centered and should have put leverage on your bearings, possibly damaging them. Gears could be damaged from mis-alignment after the bearing got damaged. The tip of the shaft might be damaged. The clutch might be damaged from flexing. The transmission case should be damaged if any of the bolts are tightened properly and the transmission is tilted. Overall, you might have destroyed the transmission. On the good side, though, the screeching from the first transmission might have just been the throwout bearing. Worth double-checking. Your clutch probably stopped working once the transmission tilted and cocked the clutch disc.

This thread covers most of what you need to know - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/ The early EFI systems don't use a an EPROM chip that can be reset with new values. They don't use any type of "chip" at all, only a few individual transistors. The computer is locked in to whatever it was set to when soldered together at the factory, plus/minus whatever drift has occurred due to component aging. The two main things that you can tune are fuel pressure and resistance in the water temperature sensor circuit. The first can be adjusted leaner or richer, the second richer only.

Re post #6 - http://www.amazon.com/ACCEL-9002C-Extreme-Universal-Ceramic/dp/B001OD2OM4/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Spendy in the short run but long-term might be worth the money.

Well, good luck then. The feeling of knowing the function of the wires and that they're connected correctly is much more satisfying, to me, than the thrill of connecting the battery or turning the key with no firm knowledge that things won't go up in smoke. But I'm kind of boring.

You should change the focus of what you're trying to do. Don't worry about wire colors or what this plug connects to or any of that. Sit down with the wiring diagram, the big connector to the ECU, some tape or stick-on labels and a pen, and an ohm-meter or continuity tester. Test each pin in the ECU plug for continuity to every wire end. Some of them will be pretty easy, like the pin for the CHTS should be connected to an EV1 style connector. Others might require a lot of probing. Or do it backwards and pick a wire end and just stab your probe in to every ECU plug pin until you get a hit. When you figure one out, label it with the pin number and/or (preferably and) its purpose to the ECU (example: injector ground, CHTS connection, etc). When you're done you can decide how to connect each component or power source to the proper pin at the ECU. Fuses, relays, etc. will be easier to figure out once you know each wire's function.

Cut all of the wires out and just add new wires as you discover things that don't work anymore.

You need to go back and put some spaces and capital letters in those two posts. Effort returned is usually about proportional to effort invested. Too much effort is required to figure out what you're trying to say, none is left for a reply. Your problems will make more sense to you also if you describe them well. I've solved a lot of problems while trying to work up a good description so I could ask a question. In short - your jumble of words is too hard to read.

You know you shouldn't. Just put the work in.

It depends on what you mean by the word "can".

Yes, it is. For wiring issues, it's best to use the factory publications, in my opinion. Use 1983 since that's your harness, the EFI harness is essentially independent of the body harness except for power supply. When you see the page you'll understand. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/