NewZed

Remove the hose that supplies the carbs, stick the end in a container and turn the engine over.

Honsowetz talks about enlarging the oil jet to 0.125" on page 15 of his "How to Modify..." book. Says it will help with a high profile cam, but should only be done if it won't deprive the bottom end oil supply. Doesn't really say how to tell if the bottom end supply is affected though.

With a voltmeter, you would have exactly the same confusion on why your engine doesn't want to start, assuming an understanding of how both meters work. The advantage of the voltmeter is it tells you if the alternator is putting out too much voltage. Otherwise, the two meters show the same thing if you know how to interpret them.

It will be an excellent learning experience. Do it.

I'm just trying to help you get some results. If you can't edit the title, you might as well start a new thread. Try an edit first.

The one spark means that your coil works and is getting power. The coil is supposed to spark when the ignitor breaks the coil primary circuit when the ECU tells it to when the CAS tells the ECU it's time. The problem is in the CAS, ECU or ignitor. You could easily have the same problem with an 82 distributor. There are test procedures in the 81 Turbo Supplement or the 82 and 83 FSM, Engine Fuel chapters. Takes some reading. Seems to be a very common problem, you should be able to find many many threads on this forum about it.

Take better pictures and put a better title on your thread. There are billions of threads that say "help me" out there on the interweb.

I'm always amazed at the expertise of the illustrators for the FSM's. Wish I could draw like them. You'll need to mentally twist your orientation. It only hurts a little bit. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

If nobody comes through with the answer you could take a look at the drawings in the Body Electrical chapter of the FSM. I'm going to guess voltage regulator. Pretty sure it's the standard location.

The voltmeters on these old cars aren't very accurate and the alternators typically don't produce enough amperage at idle to supply all of the components and their corroded connections. Voltage drops at idle and rises with RPM, up to the voltage regulator limit. MSD has instructions and schematics on their web site. I would measure actual voltage numbers using a voltmeter at the battery, not "pretty high" estimates from the dash gauge, and go to the MSD web site. Be prepared to have problems with the 6A and your tachometer, many seem to.

Thanks. Everybody learned. If the engine runs, you might just go directly to EFEC-61. MAFS/AFM is code 12 (EFEC-63). You'll need a flat-blade screwdriver.

88 doesn't have a limp mode. If you can't take the time to read the whole thing at least read pages EFEC-20 to EFEC-23. You'll be miles ahead of where you're at now. You can't guess your way to success without understanding at least the most basic elements of the engine's control system. The computers used are primitive. Guessing at limp mode is one example of how you can get side-tracked.

Don't see how using the wrong water pump bolt caused "loss of all compression". The first part is the more likely cause. Did you take anything apart to find out the details of what happened? Anyway though, good luck with the wrecking yard 79 ZX motor. It will probably work fine with the manifolds from the motor you doinked up with the gasket refresh. By the way, 74.5 still doesn't tell if you have the early small S30 or the later bulkier S30. It's important for other things, like suspension work.

Those nuts are supposed to be self-locking. Maybe they're worn.

It's on the internet, it must be true.

Except in the case of conditions described in your first post. You might be so far off with CHTS, fuel pressure, and/or some other variable that the ECCS can't do its idle control. Probably be worth your time to check all of the basics, like timing, fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, etc. followed by whatever you can figure out from the FSM. Even without the O2 feedback, 10 mpg is terrible. You'll need to do the same with MSnS anyway.

Think about what the throttle does, and the effect of opening up a vacuum port to the outside atmosphere. http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/throttle?s=t

Phantom answered this in Post #7. It would be exactly like what you have until you shifted to 5th. Look through the MT chapters of the various FSM's or find a web page that lists the gear ratios for the older versus newer 5 speeds. They're different, that's why the rear gear ratio is different.

These links might help. Looks like some work ahead to get it running right. http://www.electromotive-inc.com/support/manuals.php http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

You can also put a small punch through the oil weep hole to knock the seal partially out, to get it started.

1975 US cars didn't come with a 5 speed so you might spend a little time figuring out what you have. If it's a 77 Z - 83 ZX 5 speed, it will be a straight swap as beerman says. Check your rear main seal on the engine, and the front and rear seals on the transmission, they're easy to replace, pretty cheap, and you'll regret not doing it if you find they leak later. Also, on your 1976, if it's a Federal model, you'll lose the top-gear vacuum advance switch. It's described in the Emissions or Engine Fuel chapter in the FSM. Not a huge deal, but you might want to re-route the vacuum advance hose otherwise you'll never get vacuum advance of timing in the distributor.

Tony D mentioned the 3.36 R200 in Post #2.

Read the whole thread (Post 18 and 19), or make your own images (Body) - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

The last pieces to fit are the mainshaft tip in to the pilot bushing and the alignment dowels on the back of the engine, I believe. It's also possible to jam the pilot bushing deep in to the crankshaft on some engines, although I don't know if there's an inch of space there. Were you lightly tapping or banging? Seems scary.

This might help. The spacer distance needs to match the housing. Don't forget that engineers design bearing assemblies for hot running, not sitting still and cold.