Jump to content
HybridZ

NewZed

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    6650

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    66

 Content Type 

Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    Might as well go beat the heck out of it and see if things loosen up. "Italian tune-up".
  2. NewZed
    Check inside each light socket. A short across the bulb contacts will blow your fuses.
  3. NewZed
    Seems like you're going through gyrations just to get a magical/mystical "square" bore/stroke ratio. And that L20A cam is kind of tiny for a 2.7 liter engine, isn't it? Add in the small E31 valves and it will be kind of choked, I believe. I'm not an expert, by any means though. Engine specs. for the L20A are in the 1972 FSM Engine Mechanical chapter. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/
  4. NewZed
    You might try some starting fluid just to see how close the timing is and to check if you have a fuel problem or spark. If it runs for a few seconds at least you'll have renewed hope, although it might just be delaying the inevitable.
  5. NewZed
    Cut a small hole in a potato and jam it up in there. Or search Google for words like backpressure myth exhaust.
  6. NewZed
    Back to fuel pressure then. I've had a pump that worked fine when cold, crapped out after running for a little while. The motor was dying. Roll the dice again or take a measurement.
  7. NewZed
    If you've taken the manifolds off, you might have left a hose or two disconnected, or have a messed up injector seal. All air must pass through the AFM (except for the tiny amount that comes through the carbon canister). Check for vacuum leaks. A leak would give you a lean mixture, which would work better for a warm engine.
  8. NewZed
    CAS?
  9. NewZed
    Measure the fuel pressure, before you change the pump. What does this mean "If it's worth mentioning, I've only done so much as intake / exhaust on my car. "?
  10. NewZed
    The brake check warning lamp relay is powered off of a yellow wire from the external regulator in the stock configuration. If you or someone did some rewiring at the old regulator harness that could be the source. Easy to check, the relay will click and there will be a small spark at the negative post when the battery cable is re-connected. Take the cable off and put it back on a few times, listen and look. The relay is under the passenger seat. The brake pressure differential switch lights the lamp but shouldn't cause a draw if disconnected.
  11. NewZed
    You read my mind. BRAAP wrote up a good summary of his L6 experience, see Post #4 specific to TB's and the whole thread for general knowledge. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/
  12. NewZed
    Is the ECU getting the right temperature signals? Engine runs good when cold with rich air/fuel mixture, terrible when hot and super-rich. Check at the ECCS plug.
  13. NewZed
    Turbo engine?
  14. NewZed
    From the Google - http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqcode.asp?mode=nml
  15. NewZed
    They're not very complicated, just some throttle-actuated contact points. Have you taken the cover off to see what's happening, and how do you know it failed?
  16. NewZed
    You can also do the math in Delta's spec sheet. Those are all measured numbers. Theirs comes out to 1.5 (.466/.3104). Subtract the lash out and you get 1.47. I'm just doing math on numbers available, not real rocker arms. Delta actually measured the lift on ww240z's cam, so the math is kind of moot for his wonderings. Looks like they added lash back in to get "gross". The bulk of the internet and literature uses 1.5, so the fight to change thinking to 1.4 will be a good one.
  17. NewZed
    If you look at pages EM-29 and EM-30 in the 1976 Engine Mechanical chapter you can derive 1.5 and/or 1.6 ratios yourself. If you calculate in the hot lash numbers you'll get ~1.53 (intake and exhaust different), if you ignore lift lost to lash you'll get 1.57. Both above 1.5, no way to round down to 1.4. Later FSM's, ZX's for example, don't have enough numbers to do the math.
  18. NewZed
    Is your real question about the price of the head rebuild or whether you really need one or not? The cost of the rebuild would depend on quality and quantity of new parts, how much time is spent, and the mechanic's valuation of that time. Value of the job is what it's worth to you.
  19. NewZed
    The other points of pressure leak down are the check valve in the fuel pump and the FPR. Are you using the stock FPR or aftermarket? Aeromotive FPRs are known to leak down rapidly.
  20. NewZed
    If you have the stock ZXT transmission I don't think that it has a reverse synchro. Might still be air in the lines. Looks like fun.
  21. NewZed
    Probably something under the hood. Open it and see what you can find. Use a multimeter.
  22. NewZed
    You said it runs great in #15...? Popping and stumbling is typical of a bad AFM causing lean spots or just running on the lean side due to low fuel pressure. I have two lean AFMs that work fine with the potentiometer in the water temperature circuit, adding a little fuel.
  23. NewZed
    Try here - http://www.datsunstore.com/240z-260z-280z-c-203.html?osCsid=37b8da3c7da41f308568397ec5001165 Looks like some are out of stock, but it would be worth an e-mail or phone call to be sure.
  24. NewZed
    The solder joint fatigued and broke underneath the big blob of solder. Looked like it was still connected but was just sitting above, no electrical connection. If you were pressing down on the shiny solder blob with a probe you might measure continuity or voltage, that would then go away when the probe was removed and the wire end lifted. I think that it's fairly common. It's a heating/cooling/vibration fatigue that cracks it. Grab the wire and tug. If it comes free, that's a problem. C-1 is where the actual ground point is. Maybe you lost ground there. Find C-1 and jumper the pin through the back side or something, or measure voltage at the pin with the switch on. The diagram of C-1's location and the rheostat pin is on the page I referenced above.
  25. NewZed
    Weird how the brain automatically converts unknown words in to known ones or some sort of mutant word that sounds more familiar. E-prong from EPROM. Someone that has Nistune might be able to read the chip and learn something. If modification dates are saved. Assuming that Nistune was used. It's possible that the ECU was "chipped" but even then it would be difficult to tell unless the new or old chips have ID numbers. You should re-title your thread "How do I tell if my 88 Z31 ECU has been chipped or Nistuned?" Where'd you find this "tuner"? Craigslist?
×
×
  • Create New...