NewZed

I'm pretty sure that people use the early 280Z EFI tank in 240Z's when they switch to EFI because they want the internal baffles and the bigger fuel lines for the high-flow/pressure EFI fuel pump. Should work fine for a 260Z since it's in the middle. I'm just interpolating, no actual experience with a 260Z tank.

Why not just leave the electronic distributor and ignition module in? Why remove it for a points set-up then circle around to electronic again? It's already there.

It's kind of an unwritten principle on this forum that the type of work you listed is pretty much routine maintenance. On a Moderator's bad day you could probably get banned for even suggesting that you would pay someone to do any of that. It's all relatively easy, non-complicated work. All of it. Time and sweat required of course, but the only "specialized" tool you might need would be a spring compressor. Not kidding and not trying to run you down. It's all simple stuff.

Starting fine with the screwdriver in the electrical switch is a sign that all of the relays and wiring are correct and working, unless there's a heat related problem. Really sounds like the key just isn't turning the switch far enough. Take two pair of needle nose pliers, grab the metal piece with both, and twist the part in between. That way there's no load on the connection with the keyed mechanism. Visualize first to make sure you're twisting the right way to get more action from the key.

Are you sure they're 280Z springs? Are they progressive or straight rate? One coil is a lot. Look for numbers on them. 5022 is the 280Z number. If a coil was cut it would be obvious since the factory bends the final coil to fit the seat. They might be 280Z coils that someone cut to use in a 240Z. Documented on Hybtidz somewhere. Here- http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/

The Engine tuneup chapter, Checking and Adjusting timing, shows what you should be seeing as far as the adjustment lock-down screw. That's a screw head in a slot, between the arrows. And the Engine Mechanical chapter, page EM-25 (1976 FSM) shows what you should see down the hole with the distributor out, with a description of the side to which the tang should be offset ("the smaller bow-shape will be faced toward the front". It will make sense when you're looking at it. With no lock-down screw you can pull the distributor right out by hand.

Looks like your distributor is in backwards. The hole that would take the screw that went through the slot on the other side of the distributor base is covered. There are several ways that this could happen. I've heard that some people have been able to force the distributor in 180 degrees off, or your oil pump is installed incorrectly, or someone took the distributor apart and put it back together backward, etc. It does need to be locked down though. There are workarounds you could try or you can run through the oil pump and distributor installation procedures in the FSM to see what's off. Put the timing mark on zero and see where the distributor drive tang is oriented first (take the distributor out and look down the hole).

Strap your battery down before driving. You can make your own with parts from any auto parts store.

Pretty sure that only the Pope is allowed to do this.

The factory spec. for the 260Z was 8.8 CR. Regardless, you're still applying the paradigms from other engine platforms. Cranking up the CR alone does not do much. From what I've gathered, an appreciable bump in CR will not give a comparative increase in performance. It will make the engine more sensitive to fuel quality (octane rating) and more detonation-prone. It's all covered in this forum, here and there. Good luck. If you're looking to be unique just pick a powerplant that nobody's ever done and make it work.

Compared to the E88 (one of them anyway, I believe there were several variations), the E31 just bumps the CR from 8.3 to 8.6. Valves are the same size. Probably a faction of a horse or a ft-lb. gained. I'm going from ozdat's engine calculator so might be missing something, but it looks like the E31 is bathed in the glow of the mysticism of unavailability here. Happy to learn something different though, in case I see an E31 in the local yards. In general, there don't seem to be many simple stock part swaps with the L6 that produce big gains, like you find with other engine platforms. Easier to just swap a bigger engine. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/

Good link to some good work. Has anyone followed up with a USA L28E engine? Hate to be picky but that's what the OP has (probably, assuming nobody put a JDM engine in to his 76).

If you were on all-bacon diet you might get some beneficial surface treatment effects but probably not worth the time and/or effort. You probably are getting rods mixed up with pistons. The turbo engines have a different part number for both pistons and piston rings (Honsowetz and Monroe as reference). I don't know what the difference is. If you're going to tear down or refresh things before installing the turbo you night consider a "Hybridz best-practices" route. Do some work on the head unshrouding the valves, which will give a bigger chamber, lowering compression ratio and also give better flow to get the most from every pound of boost. Use an aftermarket EMS, like Megasquirt. Don't spend any money on the bottom end until you're sure the tune isn't going to destroy expensive parts. Etc. Take a few notes as you browse the threads and a good path will appear.

After reading the various cam destruction threads over the past few years, if I ever install a new cam I'll leave the rocker arms off and spin the engine with all valves closed before starting. Probably build a little aluminum foil shield to direct any spray then check each lobe for flow. Or even cut a plexiglass tube lengthwise to allow viewing as the cam turns. Confirmation of flow before applying any pressure to the cam or rocker arms. If it still gets destroyed at least the oil supply question will be clear. Inline, you could still do that if you haven't taken things apart yet or taken a sledge to it. It would tell you something.

Doesn't the unburned fuel from a miss skew the O2 sensor's reading to the rich side? If it's "false rich", adding fuel should make the AFR reading show leaner, as the lean misses go away.

If you can smell the mouse pee you'll probably want to hose it out with water. That stink will last forever.

The thumping noise is at cold start. It goes away and doesn't come back, I assume when oil is supplied. The other noise follows RPM exactly so doesn't seem like it would be a timing chain flopping around. That's why I thought it might be the wrist pin, after looking through Monroe's book. Removing the injector plug is a variation on his recommendation of removing spark. The motor has always had a ticking that remained after adjusting lash and I've kind of blown it off as just a noise that this particular engine makes, maybe from a loose mouse-trap spring or something. But I decided to find the source and here I am. Can't find it, except I know now it's associated with the #1 cylinder. Everything's adjusted, the mouse-traps all seem tight, the noise seems to come from somewhere besides the valve train. I've put about 10,000 miles on it so hopefully I'll get some more noise as it gets worse if it's about to go. I have another engine that will go in eventually. If I knew what to look for on the ticking engine I might take it out sooner and fix it. Thanks for the comments. The only blown up L6's I've personally seen all had rods thrown through the side of the block, but they weren't mine so I have no idea how much warning the drivers had. Mystery noises make me nervous.

For the money spent already, it probably would have been worthwhile to modify a valve cover with a plexiglass window to see what's happening while running. Might still be. Cold running only of course.

I had a similar problem with the ignition switch. I just took a pair of pliers and twisted/bent the actuating rod so that it hit Start before it ran out of twist. The electrical component was fine. I tried two (had a spare) before I figured out what was happening. You can test the electrical piece with a flat blade screwdriver. Actually, if you wanted a fail-safe you could let the electrical part hang, carry a screwdriver, and keep the key for show until you get it fixed.

Are you replacing the whole switch (with key) or just the electrical part? The mechanical pieces can wear to where it won't turn the electrical switch far enough to make contact with the starter circuit. You can bend the rod from the key part to the electrical part to get more twist if that's the case.

Does anyone know how to tell for sure if a wrist pin is bad? I thought I had a timing chain noise but did some more inspecting and find that removing the #1 injector plug removes the noise. Loose wrist pin is the only thing that seems to fit (Honsowetz Rebuild book as my source), aside from possibly a small exhaust or head gasket leak. The engine (used, probably high mileage) has a light thumping noise that goes away after 4-6 thumps when started in the morning which is apparently a sign of a worn bearing. The inside of the engine had much sludge, which is slowly washing away with detergent oil usage, so it's probably had a hard life. But it runs great, except for the irritating ticking noise. Lash is adjusted, oil level right. Any insights on how long you can run with a bad wrist pin, and what happens when it gets too bad (does something break or does it just get super noisy?) would also be appreciated. Odd topic and I won't be surprised if it's just another one of my DOA threads.

In summary, you've purchased a Z with an early 240Z engine. Pretty basic. For performance, transplanting an L28 would probably be quickest, cheapest and easiest. You haven't said what year Z you have. I'll guess 260Z since you assumed it was an L26. Apparently the E31 is "uncommon and desirable" to some though. http://www.xenons30.com/Heads.html

I was just pointing out, indirectly, that transmitting 60 ft-lbs of torque through the urethane flange seems unlikely. There's something weird going on with your assembly of parts if the outer nuts are loosening, self-locking or not, if they're tightened to 60 ft-lbs.. The urethane might get squished and squeak but it seems unlikely to transmit that kind of torque.

Regarding low oil flow at idle - it might be worhwhile to bump the idle speed up semi-permanently, until you get some miles on the cam, or even permanently. A couple hundred RPM might make the difference in flow with no real adverse effects except you'd lose some of the cammy/lopey idle sound.