NewZed

What's it look like?

Seems like you are mixing up adjusting timing with adjusting rotor position (phasing, I think some call it). Timing is just when the coil discharges. This is adjusted with the 81 CAS by moving the sensor at the pulley. Described on EF-46. When the spark happens it will then jump to the closest terminal to the rotor tip. If the rotor is not closest to the #1 position terminal, the spark will jump to the one in front or behind. #4 or #5. #1 will then get its spark when #4 or #5 should have got theirs. So when you rotate the distributor on your 81 crank-mounted CAS all you're doing is moving the point at which the terminal gets its spark. If you move it too far, the "timing" will be way off, like a whole cylinder's worth. Phase the rotor position to #1 using distributor rotation and/or plug wire position, then adjust the CAS at the pulley to set timing.

Flooded?

I pulled a combined EFI/fuel pump relay from a 78 parts car that I had, that was the same as my 76's. I think that Nissan may have used the same combined relay in 78, but not all of its functions. They all have JECS part numbers on them. Compare those. By the way, they don't go bad often, probably because they're in the dryest location of all of the relays.

Use an ohm-meter to check the pinout to the Microtech ECU plug, and the Microtech wiring diagram to determine what should be there. Why guess?

Some people just don't have that kind of money. I know I don't. Or they need something to get them by until they get the extra funds. If I was trying to fix a mess like that, in the garage on the weekends, I might consider using a good strut brace to locate the tops of the struts with the new fabricated pieces underneath. You still need to do some other locating work but it might work as a good jig to hold things together. The chassis dimensions are in the Body chapter of the FSM.

I've had a persistent ticking noise from my stock L6 that I can't get rid of. I've found that tweaking the chain guide (with a screwdriver from the top) will affect the noise but won't get rid of it. It's most noticeable as I idle by parked cars with the window open. Seems to disappear at higher RPM. On the Kameari site they mention "heat seizing" chain links. Has anyone ever seen a seized or balky timing chain link? Wondering if I have a tight one that is causing the noise, or if my chain guides are just worn out. The chain itself seems to be within normal stretch range. http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_TimingChain.php Could someone who's installed a new timing chain share how tight the chain should be with nothing moving? I have quite a bit of play in the tight side of the chain if I turn the camshaft forward. The spring in the tensioner isn't taking up the slack, but I don't know how much slack it should take. I might just have a worn chain slapping around, even though timing is right. Thanks for any insights.

On coatings. Found some stuff on the Kameari site. Manganese phosphate, manganese phosphoric acid. Seems to be typically used for corrosion-proofing, but Kameari is touting it for wear. Seems like some marketing guys might have their hands in here, but still interesting. http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_SuperDragCamshaft.php http://www.kameariusa.com/L6_TimingChain.php

You need to measure the housing (outer tube), not the shaft. The gland nut locates and clamps the outer shock tube in to the strut tube. Measure at the top, the part that fits inside the gland nut.

Remove the hose that supplies the carbs, stick the end in a container and turn the engine over.

Honsowetz talks about enlarging the oil jet to 0.125" on page 15 of his "How to Modify..." book. Says it will help with a high profile cam, but should only be done if it won't deprive the bottom end oil supply. Doesn't really say how to tell if the bottom end supply is affected though.

With a voltmeter, you would have exactly the same confusion on why your engine doesn't want to start, assuming an understanding of how both meters work. The advantage of the voltmeter is it tells you if the alternator is putting out too much voltage. Otherwise, the two meters show the same thing if you know how to interpret them.

It will be an excellent learning experience. Do it.

I'm just trying to help you get some results. If you can't edit the title, you might as well start a new thread. Try an edit first.

The one spark means that your coil works and is getting power. The coil is supposed to spark when the ignitor breaks the coil primary circuit when the ECU tells it to when the CAS tells the ECU it's time. The problem is in the CAS, ECU or ignitor. You could easily have the same problem with an 82 distributor. There are test procedures in the 81 Turbo Supplement or the 82 and 83 FSM, Engine Fuel chapters. Takes some reading. Seems to be a very common problem, you should be able to find many many threads on this forum about it.

Take better pictures and put a better title on your thread. There are billions of threads that say "help me" out there on the interweb.

I'm always amazed at the expertise of the illustrators for the FSM's. Wish I could draw like them. You'll need to mentally twist your orientation. It only hurts a little bit. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

If nobody comes through with the answer you could take a look at the drawings in the Body Electrical chapter of the FSM. I'm going to guess voltage regulator. Pretty sure it's the standard location.

The voltmeters on these old cars aren't very accurate and the alternators typically don't produce enough amperage at idle to supply all of the components and their corroded connections. Voltage drops at idle and rises with RPM, up to the voltage regulator limit. MSD has instructions and schematics on their web site. I would measure actual voltage numbers using a voltmeter at the battery, not "pretty high" estimates from the dash gauge, and go to the MSD web site. Be prepared to have problems with the 6A and your tachometer, many seem to.

Thanks. Everybody learned. If the engine runs, you might just go directly to EFEC-61. MAFS/AFM is code 12 (EFEC-63). You'll need a flat-blade screwdriver.

88 doesn't have a limp mode. If you can't take the time to read the whole thing at least read pages EFEC-20 to EFEC-23. You'll be miles ahead of where you're at now. You can't guess your way to success without understanding at least the most basic elements of the engine's control system. The computers used are primitive. Guessing at limp mode is one example of how you can get side-tracked.

Don't see how using the wrong water pump bolt caused "loss of all compression". The first part is the more likely cause. Did you take anything apart to find out the details of what happened? Anyway though, good luck with the wrecking yard 79 ZX motor. It will probably work fine with the manifolds from the motor you doinked up with the gasket refresh. By the way, 74.5 still doesn't tell if you have the early small S30 or the later bulkier S30. It's important for other things, like suspension work.

Those nuts are supposed to be self-locking. Maybe they're worn.

It's on the internet, it must be true.

Except in the case of conditions described in your first post. You might be so far off with CHTS, fuel pressure, and/or some other variable that the ECCS can't do its idle control. Probably be worth your time to check all of the basics, like timing, fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, etc. followed by whatever you can figure out from the FSM. Even without the O2 feedback, 10 mpg is terrible. You'll need to do the same with MSnS anyway.