NewZed

Same plug with resistor is 7133. BPR6ES-11 http://www.ngk.com

Try RockAuto or Amazon. Some parts stores only know the NGK part stock number. NGK7334 is yours.

The fuel pressure regulator controls fuel pressure by bleeding off excess. When the engine is running the fuel pump would normally be on all the time. People bypass the switch in the AFM often, or it could be out of adjustment. Pump on all the time won't affect how the engine runs. Read the Engine Fuel chapter in the FSM if you really want to understand 1976 specifically. The Fuel Injection Book and the Engine Fuel chapter together should make it easy to test most of the components from the ECU plug. Spend an hour or two with a multimeter at the plug, with notes from the book and the chapter. Even if you don't find anything wrong it won't be a waste of time. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

Did you install the parts or buy someone else's project.? Verify that fuel pressure is maintained after it starts (use a gauge). No fuel, no run.

Anti-roll bar aka sway bar aka anti-sway bar. Funny, I asked the exact same question many posts ago, now I'm on the other side. Crank the wheel to the right and see how close the tire is to those parts. I'm not sure but I think that if you're steering rack was misplaced it would change the "lock" on one side. The rack bushings on these cars degrade and the rack moves around. Makes the steering loose. Edit - rack might not be the right word, since the actual rack is inside. Maybe rack housing? Anyway...

In the second picture, your steering link and ARB look like they have rub marks on them, maybe from the tire. Fits the right turn scenario.

Came across this site, thought it might be interesting to some. Like Redi-Sleeve, but more options. Food for thought. http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.7100150cebe5bbc2d6806710237ad1ca?vgnextdiv=687567&vgnextcatid=2633738&vgnextcat=SHAFT%20REPAIR%20SLEEVES&vgnextoid=f5c9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=NL

You were right, capacitor/condenser/RF resistor. The black wire connects to ground. The other side of the ignitor is round. Thought you might be talking about that. The specs. for the coil are in the FSM but you'd need to understand primary and secondary circuits. Hope the auto parts guys knew what they were doing. Looks like you're making progress.

Study up on how spark is created and how the ZXT ignition system works. It's a little bit complex and will take some thought. The Shizuki component is probably your ignition transistor, aka "ignitor". That would explain why it won't spark. The 82 Electrical chapter will have to do. EL-32. Power transistor. The case needs grounding, so there are actually three electrical connections.

There are no signs of dyno capability on the wongsperformance web site. Testimonials about what a great guy he is and listings of bolt-on packages but no dyno tuning descriptions. Looks like he's just a good mechanic who probably tunes by ear or AFR gauge.

One of your connections may be missing. Check the wiring diagram for 72 and you'll see the four connections between alt. and regulator. F, A, E, N. Engine Electrical chapter > Charging Circuit. The letters are usually cast in to the back of the alternator and may be marked on the regulator also. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/

One reason left to use the site's search engine instead of using Google and "site:hybridz.org" is the "Find Author" tool. But the 4 letter limit on word size kind of kills that usefulness also. Just tried to search OBX and a user name but couldn't do it. OBX is too small. Other useful three letter acronyms and words are KYB, LSD, NOS, OEM, MSA, DIY, oil, L28, L26, L24, Z31, Z32, SBC, BBC, LS1, LS2, LS3, LSX, FPR, HEI, low, S30, and WTB. All fairly useful and specific. Example - someone posted on low oil pressure. With the user name and "low oil pressure", the odds of finding the thread are pretty good. Without low and oil though, you have to search pressure alone which will give many more results to wade through. Same with OBX or HEI or KYB. Pretty specific terms, but not allowed. Just a suggestion.

Read motoman's post again. The end of the cable from the negative post should be attached to the starter case using a starter mounting bolt. This gives the shortest path for current back to the battery. You have it attached to the body, so that current has to flow through the starter case, in to the block, then through those small melting ground wires to the body, on its way back to the battery. Move the cable end to the starter mounting bolt. Your positive cable end looks pretty nasty also. It will give you problems in the future. RockAuto has cheap OEM-style cables.

Without the clips the axle can push in to the diff and probably destroy your side seal. Other bad things could probably happen if it pulls out and binds up. doesn't seem like a good idea. I think I've read of others having problems with clips in the OBX. Can't remember where though. I think that the 280ZXT axles were designed for clips in the diff, so that might be worth a try. Why did you start with clips on the axles? The internal clips are still available from Nissan. http://www.courtesyparts.com/clip-side-p-351272.html

motoman's theory makes the most sense. Take his suggestion first. The big cable from the battery negative post isn't passing the current it should be.

That's what ground wires are for. Follow the wire that burned backward toward the battery. It must be short-circuited, or it's too small for the current it's carrying. Ground wires should have a device or electrical component between the grounding point and the battery or alternator. The component is what limits current flow. Check the wires connected to your starter since it happens when you try to start the car. As for the hand-written wiring diagram you used, it's full of question marks and un-needed wires. Look at the turbo swap threads on this forum and see if you can find better instructions.

Side seal sounds right. I'd get the Nissan part if it's still available. Call your local dealer. Compare pictures if you decide to go RockAuto. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/PowerTrain/DifferentialGear/R200/tabid/1727/Default.aspx http://www.courtesyparts.com/seal-oil-p-351859.html

The relatively clean perimeters of the piston tops is a sign of bad oil rings, I believe. The oil left behind washes the edges clean. A fresh head might run better but things will probably recarbonify pretty quick and oil consumption will stay high. No expert, just testing what I've learned.

Still no picture. I'm going to guess speedometer cable.

johnc also had a good point about mechanically adjusting the rears. They're supposed to self-adjust with parking brake usage but the mechanism tends to get gummed up and stop working. On my car I can tell when I get another notch, because the brake pedal gets a little higher. If the rears are out of adjustment you'll have wasted pedal travel.

The booster has a big effect on effort. When they go bad, the engine idle speed will change when the brake pedal is pressed. The stock brakes actually work well when everything is adjusted right. In other words, it's not normal for a Z to have crap brakes. The brake light isn't tied to fluid level on the Z's (ZX's maybe), it's used to indicate an imbalance between front and rear systems. The light went out because you fixed enough of the imbalance when you bled the fronts to keep the switch centered. Check that the PO didn't put the calipers on the wrong sides also. Bleed valve should be up.

Check your tension/compression (TC) rods. When they break, the wheel can move forward easily, and backward too if the rod comes out of the socket. I broke one and the tire left a nice wear mark on the front inside of the fender well.

Did you remember to remove the chain wedge?

I've seen several small block chevy engines do this after wiping a cam lobe. Might check the mechanicals since the electrical and fuel look right. I've seen it described also, on this forum that the press-fit distributor shaft can spin. Timing verification is a good idea. Checking for a tooth jump on the cam chain is easy enough, using the notch and groove, and the zero timing mark.

Could be the BCDD 10 mph switch.