NewZed

If you have the stock ZXT transmission I don't think that it has a reverse synchro. Might still be air in the lines. Looks like fun.

Probably something under the hood. Open it and see what you can find. Use a multimeter.

You said it runs great in #15...? Popping and stumbling is typical of a bad AFM causing lean spots or just running on the lean side due to low fuel pressure. I have two lean AFMs that work fine with the potentiometer in the water temperature circuit, adding a little fuel.

Try here - http://www.datsunstore.com/240z-260z-280z-c-203.html?osCsid=37b8da3c7da41f308568397ec5001165 Looks like some are out of stock, but it would be worth an e-mail or phone call to be sure.

The solder joint fatigued and broke underneath the big blob of solder. Looked like it was still connected but was just sitting above, no electrical connection. If you were pressing down on the shiny solder blob with a probe you might measure continuity or voltage, that would then go away when the probe was removed and the wire end lifted. I think that it's fairly common. It's a heating/cooling/vibration fatigue that cracks it. Grab the wire and tug. If it comes free, that's a problem. C-1 is where the actual ground point is. Maybe you lost ground there. Find C-1 and jumper the pin through the back side or something, or measure voltage at the pin with the switch on. The diagram of C-1's location and the rheostat pin is on the page I referenced above.

Weird how the brain automatically converts unknown words in to known ones or some sort of mutant word that sounds more familiar. E-prong from EPROM. Someone that has Nistune might be able to read the chip and learn something. If modification dates are saved. Assuming that Nistune was used. It's possible that the ECU was "chipped" but even then it would be difficult to tell unless the new or old chips have ID numbers. You should re-title your thread "How do I tell if my 88 Z31 ECU has been chipped or Nistuned?" Where'd you find this "tuner"? Craigslist?

Coincidence? Did you have your hand on something else while fiddling with the dome light? The dome light has constant power but only grounds through the door switches or the switch at the light itself. BE-16. My instrument lights and running lights went out when the wire to the top of the switch broke off. But ti sounds like you've checked that, and confirmed it's good with the hedlight circuit swap. How about the rheostat circuit? That's the ground for the instrument lights, through C-1 which, coincident to the lights coming back on, is down by the fuse box. BE-15.

Tuning would most likely be done using Nistune. Rewriting the internal EPROM. No hardware changes, so the inside will look the same. http://www.nistune.com/equipment-products.php

76 does not have a pump prime. The 76 pump only gets power at Start and when the AFM contact switch is made to the fuel pump relay. Your memory of a fuel pump prime may have been a dream about a ZX.

Don't the bump stops bounce off of the top of gland nuts under full compression? Could be a clue re your suspension bouncing off the line when racing. Probably related, get off the bump stops and the gland nuts might stay tight.

You figured out FSM. BE = Body Electrical. The ZX FSM does not have a Body Electrical chapter, but does have an Electrical chapter. That would be the next logical place to look. Have you tried to figure out what the one (1) switch does? Is the 5 speed from a ZX or a Z? That would be a factor in number of switches.

Free, or salvage value? Title? Parts only or possible restore to driveability? I haven't been to Eastern Washington for a while.

It's an acronym. The middle letter stands for Service. You could also take a multimeter and measure what's happening on the wires under various conditions. Reverse, neutral, key on, key off, etc. Puzzle it out. Or you could just drive the car around and see what doesn't work anymore.

Word.

Exactly. You're getting worked up at someone who's on your side.

My direct point in the later post was that the fuel damper can only restrict flow if there is a problem with it. But you stated that you had good flow from the injectors in a previous post. So you were planning to remove something that could only restrict flow even though you don't have a flow restriction. No beneficial effect. In other words, you're wasting your time removing the damper. And you didn't address my point about what the injectors were doing. At low RPM you should see the individual squirts. If you get a full blast when you turn on the pump at starting RPM then you have an electrical problem with the injectors. Could be as simple as the TPS being stuck on WOT.

Pretty sure you missed my point...

For an extra $18 you can get the Nissan part - http://www.courtesyparts.com/brg-rr-ax-p-359331.html Might be an NSK or some other brand though. But at least it has the Nissan seal of approval. You could probably get your local dealer to get some in and open the box to see what you're getting.

How long has it been sitting? Squirt some oil in the cylinders to get a good ring seal and cylinder pressure.

My mistake. I saw ZX in your post and gave you the inner ZX number. RW101 is the number for the inner rear bearing of the ZX. RW116 and RW117 are Z numbers. Another source I've found for part numbers is RockAuto. You'll see that National, SKF and Timken all use the same numbers. These days, they might even be the same company.

This site might get you there. It's give you the Timken number anyway, to cross-ref from. http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/ And the Z and ZX bearings are different in the rear, both inner and outer. Not sure about the front. I think that the nomenclature is common in the bearing world. So RW101 would be the label. Here's an E-Bay link http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-Premium-Quality-RW101-Wheel-Bearing-New-/310681801599 You can also use your favorite PDF program to search for RW101 through this Timken catalog - http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=skf%20bearing%20cross-reference&source=web&cd=7&ved=0CFAQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timken.com%2Fen-us%2Fproducts%2FDocuments%2FTimken_Bearing_Cross_Reference_Guide.pdf&ei=Xy4EUvSkE6OhiAKE2YHIAg&usg=AFQjCNHcSSJ2h8RauqWLEO5iAFWfpmt6Sw&cad=rja

A few pictures in Motortrend is not much history. One of the pictures is just a picture of cars at a car show. Are the other three pictures from a Motortrend article or somewhere else? I think you might just have a typical modified 280ZX turbo car. If that's a picture of the engine, it looks fairly factory stock.

This might help with the wiring - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1983/1983%20280zx%20FSM/ But the items below seem to show that there have been modifications. Are you sure it even has the stock engine management? Look for the computer and see if it says Megasquirt or Haltech or similar. If it's aftermarket you'll be able to focus on how to get the specific EMS to work right. There are no numbers to keep matched in a 1983 280ZXT.

No offense intended. You do see my point about looking for a blockage when you have good flow through the injectors? Makes no sense.

Even less clear. I don't think that you understand the basics of fuel injection, or your not applying the principles to your problem. You should read read the Engine Fuel chapter in the FSM. It describes when and why the injectors spray. If you are about to remove the fuel damper to get your engine to run, you aren't really thinking things through. You said that you had a good spray pattern but you're still looking for a fuel line blockage. Doesn't make sense. Read and think before going any further. A few simple methodical tests will tell you where the problem is.