NewZed

Coincidence? Did you have your hand on something else while fiddling with the dome light? The dome light has constant power but only grounds through the door switches or the switch at the light itself. BE-16. My instrument lights and running lights went out when the wire to the top of the switch broke off. But ti sounds like you've checked that, and confirmed it's good with the hedlight circuit swap. How about the rheostat circuit? That's the ground for the instrument lights, through C-1 which, coincident to the lights coming back on, is down by the fuse box. BE-15.

Tuning would most likely be done using Nistune. Rewriting the internal EPROM. No hardware changes, so the inside will look the same. http://www.nistune.com/equipment-products.php

76 does not have a pump prime. The 76 pump only gets power at Start and when the AFM contact switch is made to the fuel pump relay. Your memory of a fuel pump prime may have been a dream about a ZX.

Don't the bump stops bounce off of the top of gland nuts under full compression? Could be a clue re your suspension bouncing off the line when racing. Probably related, get off the bump stops and the gland nuts might stay tight.

You figured out FSM. BE = Body Electrical. The ZX FSM does not have a Body Electrical chapter, but does have an Electrical chapter. That would be the next logical place to look. Have you tried to figure out what the one (1) switch does? Is the 5 speed from a ZX or a Z? That would be a factor in number of switches.

Free, or salvage value? Title? Parts only or possible restore to driveability? I haven't been to Eastern Washington for a while.

It's an acronym. The middle letter stands for Service. You could also take a multimeter and measure what's happening on the wires under various conditions. Reverse, neutral, key on, key off, etc. Puzzle it out. Or you could just drive the car around and see what doesn't work anymore.

Word.

Exactly. You're getting worked up at someone who's on your side.

My direct point in the later post was that the fuel damper can only restrict flow if there is a problem with it. But you stated that you had good flow from the injectors in a previous post. So you were planning to remove something that could only restrict flow even though you don't have a flow restriction. No beneficial effect. In other words, you're wasting your time removing the damper. And you didn't address my point about what the injectors were doing. At low RPM you should see the individual squirts. If you get a full blast when you turn on the pump at starting RPM then you have an electrical problem with the injectors. Could be as simple as the TPS being stuck on WOT.

Pretty sure you missed my point...

For an extra $18 you can get the Nissan part - http://www.courtesyparts.com/brg-rr-ax-p-359331.html Might be an NSK or some other brand though. But at least it has the Nissan seal of approval. You could probably get your local dealer to get some in and open the box to see what you're getting.

How long has it been sitting? Squirt some oil in the cylinders to get a good ring seal and cylinder pressure.

My mistake. I saw ZX in your post and gave you the inner ZX number. RW101 is the number for the inner rear bearing of the ZX. RW116 and RW117 are Z numbers. Another source I've found for part numbers is RockAuto. You'll see that National, SKF and Timken all use the same numbers. These days, they might even be the same company.

This site might get you there. It's give you the Timken number anyway, to cross-ref from. http://www.showmetheparts.com/timken/ And the Z and ZX bearings are different in the rear, both inner and outer. Not sure about the front. I think that the nomenclature is common in the bearing world. So RW101 would be the label. Here's an E-Bay link http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKF-Premium-Quality-RW101-Wheel-Bearing-New-/310681801599 You can also use your favorite PDF program to search for RW101 through this Timken catalog - http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=skf%20bearing%20cross-reference&source=web&cd=7&ved=0CFAQFjAG&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.timken.com%2Fen-us%2Fproducts%2FDocuments%2FTimken_Bearing_Cross_Reference_Guide.pdf&ei=Xy4EUvSkE6OhiAKE2YHIAg&usg=AFQjCNHcSSJ2h8RauqWLEO5iAFWfpmt6Sw&cad=rja

A few pictures in Motortrend is not much history. One of the pictures is just a picture of cars at a car show. Are the other three pictures from a Motortrend article or somewhere else? I think you might just have a typical modified 280ZX turbo car. If that's a picture of the engine, it looks fairly factory stock.

This might help with the wiring - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1983/1983%20280zx%20FSM/ But the items below seem to show that there have been modifications. Are you sure it even has the stock engine management? Look for the computer and see if it says Megasquirt or Haltech or similar. If it's aftermarket you'll be able to focus on how to get the specific EMS to work right. There are no numbers to keep matched in a 1983 280ZXT.

No offense intended. You do see my point about looking for a blockage when you have good flow through the injectors? Makes no sense.

Even less clear. I don't think that you understand the basics of fuel injection, or your not applying the principles to your problem. You should read read the Engine Fuel chapter in the FSM. It describes when and why the injectors spray. If you are about to remove the fuel damper to get your engine to run, you aren't really thinking things through. You said that you had a good spray pattern but you're still looking for a fuel line blockage. Doesn't make sense. Read and think before going any further. A few simple methodical tests will tell you where the problem is.

This part isn't clear. At starter motor RPM I would think that you would see a small squirt for every other revolution. Barely enough to see a pattern. You seem to be describing injectors on full time.

BD makes a good point. If you're going to fix it no matter what, it's probably one of those two , and they both require transmission removal. So you might as well drop the transmission. But if you're going to live with it for a while, it's good to know which, since the transmission has no dipstick.

Smell it. Engine oil smells like exhaust fumes and a little bit of gasoline, gear oil smells like sulfur.

Sounds like you've made up your mind. Good luck with it.

How long has it been sitting? The problem with swapping to carbs is that you will almost certainly break some studs and/or bolts off in the head when removing the manifolds. After you fix those problems and get the carbs installed, you'll have to tune the carbs. You should also consider emissions rules in your locale, since 1977 is usually a year that needs testing in most places. If you have a catalytic converter, your carb tune will be extra important also. You won't be able to just drive it around at 12 mpg. Just some thoughts. If you have spark and it runs on starting fluid you're not really that far away from driving it with EFI. If you do decide to go with carbs though, the EFI harness is essentially separate from the main harness. It even has its own power supply wire and fusible link. The fuel pump relay is tied to the AFM switch though, so you'll need to rewire that. Overall, it shouldn't be too complicated.

On the priming - couldn't you leave the valve lash as loose as it can be, or remove the rocker arms, and spin the engine to flush the passages and confirm flow to all lobes, or spray-bar holes? I don't know how loose lash would be with the adjustment backed all the way off, but if it can be loose enough not to open the valve, it might be worth doing. Or removing the rocker arms might be worth the effort and not super difficult. Spinning everything but with no valves opening and closing, no pressure on the cam lobes. Just thinking. The oil will still drain down past the main bearings while you set lash for start-up. But at least the pump will be full and flow confirmed, and any grit or swarf will flush out without seeing the cam lobe/rocker arm interface under pressure.