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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. NewZed
    Take the connector off of the ECU, find the pins to the TPS, and test there to see if it's working right. Test the coolant temperature circuit also, use the chart in the FSM to see if the resistance is correct for the temperature. It will take a little bit of work to figure out which pin is which at the connector and to piece together the information from the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM, but once you do, you'll know if the ECU is getting the right information to run the engine. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/
  2. NewZed
    A thought on the use of Silly Putty - it's claim to fame is that it will flow and hold a shape given enough time but otherwise is rubbery and elastic on a short time frame. Depending on how fast you turned the crankshaft for your test, you might have had some elastic recovery. Your piston-head clearance might be even less than measured.
  3. NewZed
    There are people on this forum who have run KYB's and Tokico springs for street use for years with no problems. I think that the rumor comes from the warning literature that KYB includes with the shocks, that says do not use with lowering springs. Boiler plate, do not use in a non-stock configuration type warning. I've had KYB's and a lower ride for about a year and a half on a street car. Tokico springs in the back, cut stock springs in the front. It rides the same, nice and firm, as when I installed them. That's on a 76 280Z.
  4. NewZed
    Did you use a meter or just eyeball things? You need to get a voltmeter and check for voltage at the various critical spots like the coil, the starter solenoid, etc. And "turn over" means different things to different people. Engine crankshaft rotating to some, engine starting to others. More definition will help.
  5. NewZed
    It was a nice try though. Some things are just much more difficult to do than they seem by appearance. Edit - Note that the harshest comments came from the guys that could have given the best advice. Maybe a little offended that you didn't ask before building.
  6. NewZed
    ~75% of that is solvent. So 2.25 lbs of paint per gallon, 11.25 total. The solvents are very flammable too, for anyone planning to do work inside the car. From the MSDS - http://www.plastidip.com/home_solutions/Plasti_Dip
  7. NewZed
    Might as well go beat the heck out of it and see if things loosen up. "Italian tune-up".
  8. NewZed
    Check inside each light socket. A short across the bulb contacts will blow your fuses.
  9. NewZed
    Seems like you're going through gyrations just to get a magical/mystical "square" bore/stroke ratio. And that L20A cam is kind of tiny for a 2.7 liter engine, isn't it? Add in the small E31 valves and it will be kind of choked, I believe. I'm not an expert, by any means though. Engine specs. for the L20A are in the 1972 FSM Engine Mechanical chapter. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240z/
  10. NewZed
    You might try some starting fluid just to see how close the timing is and to check if you have a fuel problem or spark. If it runs for a few seconds at least you'll have renewed hope, although it might just be delaying the inevitable.
  11. NewZed
    Cut a small hole in a potato and jam it up in there. Or search Google for words like backpressure myth exhaust.
  12. NewZed
    Back to fuel pressure then. I've had a pump that worked fine when cold, crapped out after running for a little while. The motor was dying. Roll the dice again or take a measurement.
  13. NewZed
    If you've taken the manifolds off, you might have left a hose or two disconnected, or have a messed up injector seal. All air must pass through the AFM (except for the tiny amount that comes through the carbon canister). Check for vacuum leaks. A leak would give you a lean mixture, which would work better for a warm engine.
  14. NewZed
    CAS?
  15. NewZed
    Measure the fuel pressure, before you change the pump. What does this mean "If it's worth mentioning, I've only done so much as intake / exhaust on my car. "?
  16. NewZed
    The brake check warning lamp relay is powered off of a yellow wire from the external regulator in the stock configuration. If you or someone did some rewiring at the old regulator harness that could be the source. Easy to check, the relay will click and there will be a small spark at the negative post when the battery cable is re-connected. Take the cable off and put it back on a few times, listen and look. The relay is under the passenger seat. The brake pressure differential switch lights the lamp but shouldn't cause a draw if disconnected.
  17. NewZed
    You read my mind. BRAAP wrote up a good summary of his L6 experience, see Post #4 specific to TB's and the whole thread for general knowledge. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/
  18. NewZed
    Is the ECU getting the right temperature signals? Engine runs good when cold with rich air/fuel mixture, terrible when hot and super-rich. Check at the ECCS plug.
  19. NewZed
    Turbo engine?
  20. NewZed
    From the Google - http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqcode.asp?mode=nml
  21. NewZed
    They're not very complicated, just some throttle-actuated contact points. Have you taken the cover off to see what's happening, and how do you know it failed?
  22. NewZed
    You can also do the math in Delta's spec sheet. Those are all measured numbers. Theirs comes out to 1.5 (.466/.3104). Subtract the lash out and you get 1.47. I'm just doing math on numbers available, not real rocker arms. Delta actually measured the lift on ww240z's cam, so the math is kind of moot for his wonderings. Looks like they added lash back in to get "gross". The bulk of the internet and literature uses 1.5, so the fight to change thinking to 1.4 will be a good one.
  23. NewZed
    If you look at pages EM-29 and EM-30 in the 1976 Engine Mechanical chapter you can derive 1.5 and/or 1.6 ratios yourself. If you calculate in the hot lash numbers you'll get ~1.53 (intake and exhaust different), if you ignore lift lost to lash you'll get 1.57. Both above 1.5, no way to round down to 1.4. Later FSM's, ZX's for example, don't have enough numbers to do the math.
  24. NewZed
    Is your real question about the price of the head rebuild or whether you really need one or not? The cost of the rebuild would depend on quality and quantity of new parts, how much time is spent, and the mechanic's valuation of that time. Value of the job is what it's worth to you.
  25. NewZed
    The other points of pressure leak down are the check valve in the fuel pump and the FPR. Are you using the stock FPR or aftermarket? Aeromotive FPRs are known to leak down rapidly.
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