NewZed

If nobody comes through with the answer you could take a look at the drawings in the Body Electrical chapter of the FSM. I'm going to guess voltage regulator. Pretty sure it's the standard location.

The voltmeters on these old cars aren't very accurate and the alternators typically don't produce enough amperage at idle to supply all of the components and their corroded connections. Voltage drops at idle and rises with RPM, up to the voltage regulator limit. MSD has instructions and schematics on their web site. I would measure actual voltage numbers using a voltmeter at the battery, not "pretty high" estimates from the dash gauge, and go to the MSD web site. Be prepared to have problems with the 6A and your tachometer, many seem to.

Thanks. Everybody learned. If the engine runs, you might just go directly to EFEC-61. MAFS/AFM is code 12 (EFEC-63). You'll need a flat-blade screwdriver.

88 doesn't have a limp mode. If you can't take the time to read the whole thing at least read pages EFEC-20 to EFEC-23. You'll be miles ahead of where you're at now. You can't guess your way to success without understanding at least the most basic elements of the engine's control system. The computers used are primitive. Guessing at limp mode is one example of how you can get side-tracked.

Don't see how using the wrong water pump bolt caused "loss of all compression". The first part is the more likely cause. Did you take anything apart to find out the details of what happened? Anyway though, good luck with the wrecking yard 79 ZX motor. It will probably work fine with the manifolds from the motor you doinked up with the gasket refresh. By the way, 74.5 still doesn't tell if you have the early small S30 or the later bulkier S30. It's important for other things, like suspension work.

Those nuts are supposed to be self-locking. Maybe they're worn.

It's on the internet, it must be true.

Except in the case of conditions described in your first post. You might be so far off with CHTS, fuel pressure, and/or some other variable that the ECCS can't do its idle control. Probably be worth your time to check all of the basics, like timing, fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, etc. followed by whatever you can figure out from the FSM. Even without the O2 feedback, 10 mpg is terrible. You'll need to do the same with MSnS anyway.

Think about what the throttle does, and the effect of opening up a vacuum port to the outside atmosphere. http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/throttle?s=t

Phantom answered this in Post #7. It would be exactly like what you have until you shifted to 5th. Look through the MT chapters of the various FSM's or find a web page that lists the gear ratios for the older versus newer 5 speeds. They're different, that's why the rear gear ratio is different.

These links might help. Looks like some work ahead to get it running right. http://www.electromotive-inc.com/support/manuals.php http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

You can also put a small punch through the oil weep hole to knock the seal partially out, to get it started.

1975 US cars didn't come with a 5 speed so you might spend a little time figuring out what you have. If it's a 77 Z - 83 ZX 5 speed, it will be a straight swap as beerman says. Check your rear main seal on the engine, and the front and rear seals on the transmission, they're easy to replace, pretty cheap, and you'll regret not doing it if you find they leak later. Also, on your 1976, if it's a Federal model, you'll lose the top-gear vacuum advance switch. It's described in the Emissions or Engine Fuel chapter in the FSM. Not a huge deal, but you might want to re-route the vacuum advance hose otherwise you'll never get vacuum advance of timing in the distributor.

Tony D mentioned the 3.36 R200 in Post #2.

Read the whole thread (Post 18 and 19), or make your own images (Body) - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/

The last pieces to fit are the mainshaft tip in to the pilot bushing and the alignment dowels on the back of the engine, I believe. It's also possible to jam the pilot bushing deep in to the crankshaft on some engines, although I don't know if there's an inch of space there. Were you lightly tapping or banging? Seems scary.

This might help. The spacer distance needs to match the housing. Don't forget that engineers design bearing assemblies for hot running, not sitting still and cold.

Nissan stamped/etched the engine ID number in to the car's ID plate on the fenderwell up through 1976, maybe into 1977. Stopped for sure in 1978. Find the serial number of the engine, stamped on a pad at the top of the block between 5 and 6 cylinders and compare. The first three symbols are engine size - L24, 26, 28 - followed by the ID number. If it's original, it will match the car ID plate. Edit - just noticed your sig says 1974.5 260Z L28. So, if you don't have the car the engine came from, or it's post 76, you're out of luck on the ID plate. Good luck.

Maybe it's the boot then. My 280ZX CV axles take a lot of pressure to fully compress. I haven't had them apart and didn't dig in to what keeps them extended. It's extraneous to the OP's problem anyway, shouldn't have added it. But thanks for clarifying.

The rubber boots on the u-joint halfshafts pull the ends together. A u-joint halfshafts natural state is on the short side so there will always be a force pulling the axle out of the diff. As opposed to the CV shafts which have a spring inside extending it. Another thing to consider is the portion of the axle that the bearing rides on. There's about an extra inch inside where the bearing rides. The axle necks down to the splines. If the axle moves too far you won't have bearing support. Which will put a lot of potentially damaging load on your Quaife unit.

I don't have an opinion, I just found it interesting that Leon's clearance was so much tighter than what the guys on the other thread were recommending. Quench is a fun topic. And even if Monroe (and Honsowetz) wasn't focused on quench, he's still focused on keeping parts from banging together. The point about different builds and different specs. was the main point, at the end, in the other thread also. It's all good discussion material. I've read of another way to check clearance, using a piece of solder. Stick it in the spark plug hole after everything is assembled and run the engine through a revolution. The soft solder will compress and hold its shape. Of course, the piston will be "rocked" to maximum clearance. Maybe measure the rocking distance before assembly, the do the math after. This could be one last measurement before real-world testing.

Here's a thread from the recent past on the piston-head clearance topic. Some solid engine builders had some interesting comments. Most recommended that you should only get close if you have the right engine components. Clearance comes in at Post #10. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106806-long-rod-short-piston-combo-l28-tech-questions/?do=findComment&comment=999867

Can you add some detail on the side-gapping and the idle changes? I just spent some effort indexing a new set of plugs,which I've been doing since I found it smoothed the idle on my last "last-legs" engine (leaky valve stems seemed to play a part in the rough idle also). I thought about side-gapping but wasn't really sure what it offered.

You seem to be mis-translating some modern car concepts to the old EFI systems. Rftw really just needs to break out the FSM and a multimeter and do some work.

Not sure why you're equating intake vacuum with leaky injectors, but 21-23 is a good number. At least you have a measurement to work with. I've seen quite a few injectors and only seen one actual leaker. And it was an external leak from a crack. Even if you had a leak, it wouldn't be so much that it floods the engine. Probably not your problem. High fuel pressure could be though. Good luck. A few more measurements would probably show the problem source.