NewZed

I'm just guessing based on how other seals work, and the FSM and other drawings. I usually just look at things like that and try to figure out what should be, not so much about how they ended up. Somebody previous could have installed the wrong seal when they changed pinion flanges and made a mess of it. That's all I have. Looks like fun, good luck.

Look at PD-9. Outside. From under the car if you want to do it exactly by the FSM procedure. Making little stars with your hammer and tool. The outer portion of the new seal pounds in to that rusty recess in your picture (looks like yours has been missing for a while, that's going to need some cleaning), then the pinon flange slips inside when you put it back together. The moving surface seal is around the flange, the static portion fits inside the diff housing. That's my take on it. Most of the seals on the driveline, even the rear crankshaft seal in the engine, pound in from the outside.

Kind of looks like you removed a piece of the original seal, the inner seal, and the rest has torn off. Maybe someone has had your diff apart before. Do they have the same diameter inside the sealing surface, where the "spring" is? The seal replacement procedure is described on PD-9. Looks like it's meant for the big seal, not the tiny piece you have. A large hammer and a tool are shown. Here's a blow-up of the 95 300ZX viscous diff, if it helps. http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-parts-z32-1990-1996/genuine-nissan-parts/power-train/380-rear-final-drive/-c-882_883_953_974.html

Check fusible link. Where did you come up with "12 amp connection"? I don't think that anybody out here is a fuse or a relay.

Timing is when the spark happens. Unless you're good with your ear, you're best off to set it with a timing light. It spins counterclockwise. 1-5-3-6-2-4. What matters most is where the rotor tooth is in relation to the magnetic pickup. Look in the Electrical chapter of the FSM under distributor. It has the firing order and much other good information that will help you out. The Engine Tuneup chapter will show you how to set the timing and what/where the various parts are.

You didn't mention ignition timing.

Since you're in direct contact with Rocky Auto maybe you could ask about the Speedhunter situation. They either won't care because they're just in the money-making business or they'll appreciate the opportunity to clear things up. It doesn't really matter in the big scheme but it would be interesting to know what's going on in the big-money world. Vicarious thrills...

Seems like Tony D, with his experience and connections in Japan, could find out what's really going on and translate the situation for the forum (and anyone else that sees these posts). Or HS30-H might have some insights also. That would be constructive. Taking credit for someone else's work is never OK, in any culture, from my experience. If a mistake has been made by the journalist, giving the wrong impression, clearing it up would be doing Rocky Auto a service. Apparently they deserve the effort, from somebody that can get it done.

I was fishing. You'll probably get a lot more help if you just dump all of the tests you've done, with the numbers, in to one post. Unless you find someone that enjoys pulling teeth. Good luck.

Good for you. I'm going to guess it's a bigger throttle body, not the stock one?

I opened up the EFEC chapter and just randomly chose something that caught my eye. How about the throttle valve switch? It's easy to get to, test, and adjust. Who knows, you might get lucky.

That's kind of what I thought. Not the best way to do it. You can get continuity over a short-circuited wire. Or you can get continuity to the connector but have a bad connection to the sensor. Continuity doesn't tell you as much as resistance.

Describe your EMS. Is it the stock 280ZX turbo system, or modified 280Z, or Z31, or other? Edit - also curious - if you did this, "measure resistance at the ECU/ECCS connection and compare the number to the resistance versus temperature chart", why did you say that you did this, "I have continuity from plug to ecu connector and i checked the snsor itself"? Did you actually get a resistance in ohms, from the pins at the connector?

CHTS problems would be there always, not just at start. If you want to know that CHTS circuit is correct, you have to measure resistance at the ECU/ECCS connection and compare the number to the resistance versus temperature chart in the FSM.

Didn't the corner worker drop his flag before the guy that crashed came in? Seems like the corner worker screwed up, after 2 of the 4 cars ignored his red flag in the first place. Looks like a big CF.

Check alternator output while you're working on things. If you have bad regulation, the rev to 7000 RPM would cause higher voltage > higher current flow > more heat from resistive heating on your bad connections > melting and smoke. That would be one logical cause and effect path.

Check continuity from Pin 1 to the negative post of the coil. That's what the ECU uses to determine when to ground the injectors.

The revving to 7000 RPM shouldn't cause a short circuit. The voltage regulator controls voltage. You probably knocked one of the loose wires to ground when your leg was pumping up and down on the gas pedal. And that circuit should probably have a fuse on it. I would look to see why it didn't blow. I don't think that "redline" is determined by the cam profile.

Perception probably depends on whether the user is looking for smooth notch-free shifting in the cold or grind-free shifting at 7000 RPM. I've seen long discussions about getting rid of notchiness when it's cold out. A racer who changes fluids after every event or season won't have the same view of quality as a daily driver from Minnesota who will probably leave the fluid in for 30,000 miles. Redline has a paper on how their fluid is engineered with the proper coefficient of friction under high shear rates to allow the synchros to work correctly (see the MTL and MT90 Tech Info paper from the link below). The chart on page two is interesting because it shows viscosities at 100 degrees C. 10W-30 motor oil apparently has a higher viscosity than 80W gear oil at use temperature. So there must be different test standards for labeling the fluids (as impled by darkstar, and answers part of my question from above). The chart also shows that viscosity breaks down pretty quickly for the motor oil and ATF. Something to consider. http://www.redlineoil.com/techinfo.aspx I'm one of the Swepco 201 converts, but at 75/25 with ATF. Worked better than MT90 in an old, probably rusty inside, 1983 5 speed for high RPM 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. But it is a little notchy when cold out. No yellow flakes (I checked) or signs of excess wear after ~15,000 mlies. Prior to that I chose MT90 over Valvoline 75W-90 in a 1978 5 speed for better high RPM 2-3 shifting. Both transmissions high mileage, which could be a factor. One more anecdote... letitsnow used the super-duper Pennzoil Synchromesh and seemed to like it. He's shifting at high RPM. Post #120 in duragg's thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/110792-high-rpm-shifting-dynamics/page-6

When was the last time that it ran well? "I did some checks in the EFI bible and that everything checks out" means that only some things checked out, and there are things that you didn't check. Best to check everything. I would use the 1976 FSM, Engine Fuel chapter, in addition to the "bible".

The angle between the transmission shaft's axes and the pinion shaft axis should be parallel to avoid u-joint motion induced vibration. RTz's dff mount design drops the nose of the diff because he designed it for a V8 application. An RTz-style mount might be better all around for you, with the right angle and a urethane piece to damp diff whine. Pretty sure I've seen accounts of the solid mount causing fatigue cracking of the cross-member. If you have a stock mustache bar the looseness of the end mounting points will put a lot of stress on that solid mount. They'll move but the solid mount won't

I've seen it said that the gear oil numbers are different from the motor oil numbers, so they can't be compared. But I've never seen anything to support the statement, no test specs. or descriptions from evenan official looking source. I do know that 75W-90 gear oil pours much, much slower than 10W-40 motor oil at human (not engine) temperatures. Which seems to support that the same test and specs. apply to both. Who knows. I'd love to see a good professional source describing the different test methods for gear and motor oil. The link below seems to imply also that the same specs.are used. Otherwise, a 5W-30 gear oil would be like running 3 weight motor oil. Which doesn't seem likely, just considering bearings alone, let alone synchros. I'd love to learn more, I just haven't seen it yet. Ready for illumination. Edit - I've found a few more internet items suggesting that there are two specs for the two oils. But Amsoil is still labeling their gear oil as a 5W-30. So unless they decided to label their gear oil with a motor oil spec., there's precedence for the newer gear oils for modern cars, like Honda MTF, to be of lower viscosity. Hard to find a clear answer out there. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/transmission-fluid/manual/manual-synchromesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?zo=1368758&page=%2fstorefront%2fmtf.aspx

You were right about sucking at search . Don't get mad! Type "LD28 water pumps" in to the search box at the top of the page. You have to also choose "Forums" from the drop down menu in the right hand side of the search box. Maybe that's where you missed it, if you don't choose Forums it will search the topic you're in, not the whole site. The reason for my first comment will become apparent... Edit - of course, if that's not the one you're looking for then my humor is wasted.

Edit (this might be wrong - It's a short nose R200). R200V is shown in the specifications at the end of the PD chapter. Ratio of 3.538 by your tooth count, is correct for 1995. They went to 3.692 in 1997. Edit - actually I can't say for sure that it's a short nose R200. I have a shortnose R200V from a J30 and it doesn't have the finned cover. Haven;t looked at recently There's pictures all over the internet if you Google "R230 viscous" or "R200 viscous". Many links back to Hybridz. Good luck.

This thread is following the same path as the last one like this - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/98290-rb26-head-removed-and-found-this/