NewZed

Sounds like you might be running lean because the ECU isn't connected to the AFM. You'll have idle fuel but no fuel from the AFM vane which will raise your idle a little. When you open the throttle it goes way lean and dies. Checking the pins at the ECU might be the easiest, quickest way to confirm. The 100 and 180 ohm measurements are the important ones, for a 280Z. Pins 6, 8 and 9 I believe, it's in the FSM, just measure actual values at the ECU connector pins instead of continuity. ECU pin numbers match the AFM pin numbers.

One of the Hybridz members just had a similar situation and ended up with a damaged cage like yours. You might start a new thread with a link to this and put a good title on it. Your problem isn't from the MM product, but from the Q45 CV axles. Search Q45 CV axle and you might find somehting. Read jmortensen's Differential thread in the FAQ section and you'll find a description of what you have to do to get the Q45 or 300ZX VLSd to work. I think that, in general, they say that you have to buy four Q45 axles and mix and match parts to get two good ones. Edit - Mikelly posted at the same time. Still not clear why you seem to have the other problem, of too much clearance allowing the axle to come apart. Anyway, lots of new stuff to read.

I think that those are VLSD axles. 6 bolt 280ZX axles are 3 sets of paired holes. You probably have the shortnose R200 setup from MM. There is a link within this link that shows an install. It might give you some ideas. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=74&PHPSESSID=9e25b7fab3e9baf204ae3aa017e3d66f Here's the link - http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_gallery.php?album=2008+March+Proto+Q45+R200+Mounting+Proven+Brian+G/ It used to have text with it explaining the pictures but they're gone now. Somewhere out there is probably another web page with more details. Edit - pretty sure that you have to have custom axles made for this conversion. The Q45 or 300ZX axles are too long. Maybe someone got their measurements wrong.

What do you mean by "axle pullout is bad" and how do you know? I've only read one account of a CV axle pulling out and it only did it once because the balls came out of the cage(?) and destroyed themselves. Probably best to describe what type of axle you have, 4 bolt or 6 bolt (MM makes a conversion for both), and if you have the MM parts or are asking about them.

Thanks. Maybe .028" is the limit. I had posted in another thread about the fact that Honsowetz had said, in his "How to Modify..." book, to never go lower than .050" piston to head clearance and PMC and someone else replied back they both went about .028", but with forged components, not stock. Less stretch with forged, I assume. Anyway, it looks like you're on the edge. Good luck. Edit - Here's the post I was referring to. rsicard is the "someone else". He said .030", PMC said .028". With precise measurements and machine work mandatory for success, I would guess. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106806-long-rod-short-piston-combo-l28-tech-questions/?do=findComment&comment=999867

Did you just stick a straight edge on to an uncompressed gasket on the block and use a feeler gauge to measure the gap betwen the straight edge and psiton top? I think a stock gasket compresses to 1.25 mm (.049"). If so, you might recalculate to figure out what the real clearance is. Can't tell what your method was.

Looks like you have 3.54 ratio R180 and your tachometer is off. I have verified that my 1976 tach reads 200 RPM high, for example. Sites like the one below, and a quick browse through the FSMs suggest that 3.7 gears are not available in the R180. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html On the other hand, the words/numbers "R180" and "3.7" in Google brought up some suggestions outside the Z world. Try Maxima's or non-domestic. Here's one thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105397-37-rp-for-r180-diff/

The 1976 FSM would be better to use than the "bible". It's specific to your car, whereas the "bible" is general. The Engine Fuel chapter gives a great description of how things work and how to test. www.xenons30.com/reference With the AFM disconnected, fuel should come from idle enrichment only. If it's flooding, one possibility is the TPS being stuck on "full enrichment". But OAATS makes a good point about the contact switch. Are you sure that it's running rich or assuming based on the way it sounds and what it does? It might just be running out of fuel pressure when the pump turns off.

I don't know what's going on with the links. The web address is right in a new window but it doesn't open the page. Maybe it's the forum blocking viruses. If you put this - "wiring 1976 saridout site:www.classiczcars.com" - in the Google search box, the link will come up as the third hit (unless this post knocks it down). The blue wire does go directly to the tach (the branch with the inline fuse). And the module and the ECU. Three branches from the coil negative post. Aseparate harness from the EFI harness, I believe. An ohmmeter will tell you if it's the right one. Test - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread36494.html

Check out this diagram that a user on classiczcar worked up - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread36494.html or go directly to his site - http://sridout.com/datsun/76circuit_COLOR.pdf It's very nice. The wire is blue, it comes from the coil (-) through a lug on the ballat resistor and it branches off to Pin 1 of the ECU and the tachometer on the way to the ignition module. The tach wire will have a small black inline resistor. You can feel it or see it in the bundle of wires by the relays under the dash. It's about 3/8 x 3/4" in size, rectangular, and has a male and female bullet connector. Probably easiest to peel it out of the bundle and tap in to the line there. Don't forget to unplug the stock module for your XDI.

How about the fuel pump, if you're using mechanical? Timng chain sprocket loose? Things you might not see if you're focused on the cylinders.

My point would be "read". Read Post #4 and Post #16 again. And Post #1.

Just to tie up loose ends: this topic came up on another forum so I collected the serial numbers from my four plus a scrapper that I had posted there. Blue posted your picture and a picture that suggested the numbers had meaning. Somehow cut and paste from another forum seems to work so I stole the picture (see below - thanks Blue for the work on the picture). According to the instructions, all of my transmissions were made in 1967 or 1977. This is the basis of my post above saying that the numbers are meaningless. Here is my table of serial numbers: "1980" 280ZX (came out of a 1981 ZX but has 1980 ratios) - 7409303 Original (as far as I can tell) 1976 280Z 4 speed - 7106146 1978 280Z 5 speed - 7128997 1983 280ZX (speedo bolt down) - 7X64820 Blown up ZX 5 speed year unknown - 7X64845

Sorry Heroez, but I can't understand what you're trying to show. How about less attitude and more examples proving your point? Even one would be good.

Read Post #4. The OP is looking for numbers cast, stamped or etched on tothe transmission itself that will tell something about the internals and the year it was made, or model and year of car it was made for. My reply was that the serial numbers (the ones that you referred to with your pciture) do not tell you anything. I don't think that you're understanding what was asked, or you think that the serial numbers do have meaning. If you can produce a table or chart, or a Nissan Tech. Bulletion or whatever, that correlates the serial number with year and type of transmission, I will gladly produce all four of my serial numbers and see how well the table fits. I've never seen one but would ove to have it available.

Finding the numbers is easy. Finding meaning from the numbers is difficult.

The pictures at the bottom of this link should help - http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html

One of those holes is directly behind the timing chain guide. People have been known to put a too long bolt in that hole and press the guide in to the chain. You can see it with the valve cover off if you're not sure and don't want to take it apart again.

Have you considered that you might just have a bad component or system on the board itself? The power supply maybe? Seems like you've looked at all of the external possibilities.

I have a 76 four speed, a 78 5 speed, and two ZX 5 speeds and have found that the numbers on the transmission case don't tell anything. I've read the various threads about using them to ID the type, went out and got all of the numbers from each transmission and they were meaningless. No trends or ranges to work with, just random numbers. I knew which car each came from and confirmed by the speedo gear clamp screw position (up or down) and the number of exhaust pipe hangers (two or one), plus the calculated fifth gear ratios for the ZX's.

They show up on the courtesyparts.com site at $15. The description doesn't tell the color or number of teeth by part number, probably have to call them. zspecialties.com has them for $26.95.

The oil sender is 1/8". Here's the numbers for an adapter nipple from McMaster Carr that I ordered in the past, for a similar reason (mechanical gauge on block). 2 2 Each 5832T121 BSPT-to-NPT Threaded Brass Pipe Nipple 1/8" Pipe Sz, 1-1/2" L, Threaded Both Ends, Sch 40 (Same as 5832T2) today $3.14 $6.28 If I had to guess, I'd say the water is 3/8". You could grab a 3/8" NPT nipple from any hardware store and compare. The two types look almost identical, the NPT tip is just a hair too large to get started easily, even if you wanted to try forcing it in to the BSPT hole.

I would start a new thread with Subaru Diff in the title. John C will probably see it, and probably knows the answer. "Differenital Problem Help" doesn't really get anyone's attention. If you download an FSM for the ZX's you'll see that the ZX R180's are bolt-in, re one of your questions. www.xenons130/reference . It's also described on the first page of the Differential/CV/LSD.. link. You might find more info on the "KA" swap by searching "71C" or "240SX" swap. I thnk that the details are the same. A Z/ZX bellhousing/front case swap on the later model transmission. And the later transmissions have a 3.321 first gear, so with a 3.9 you'll have a pretty low first gear.

The bolt-in/clip-in answers are here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ and here - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/108917-subaru-wxr-sti-r180-side-axles-part-six/ The other parts, 1-5, of the story are out there too. You'll have to search.

Find out what?