NewZed

You could run off the battery alone for a test to see if the charging circuit is producing the noise. Are you using the external regulator or have you modified to internal?

Bearings are the same. Collars must match pressure plate height.

My mistake. I think that for the 280ZX the axles are the same for turbo and NA, that's what was in my mind. The parts store will sell you the same axle for NA or turbo applications. I haven't figured out what the difference is. Edit - Actually, I think that only the 280ZX turbo cars were intended to have CV axles, the NA's had u-joint half-shafts. But, apparently, in 83, Nissan put CV's on some of the NA cars. So, in short, any 280ZX CV axle will be the short 6 bolt axle that the OP is looking for. I have a set of 6 bolt CV axles from an NA car in my garage. Sorry to muddy things up.

The 6 bolt CV axles are actually NA axles. Even though some parts stores show them as turbo. Turbo axles are 4 bolt. If you change your title you'll probably get more looks.

Did you keep the 77 pressure sender or make the 82's work? Lots of variation in the oil pressure senders. I "gained" 30 psi when I installed a different sender.

borini... sells a lot of used parts. He posts here and is active on zcar.com. Or look at the pictures on this page - http://www.datsunstore.com/index.php/cName/7578-280-z3-steering-and-suspension-3

Somewhere in one of jmortensen's threads I think that there's a comment about "watch out for the 6 bolt NA 300ZX CV axles" they're extra long. Maybe you got 300ZX axles. Might be in this htread but I'm not sure - - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ Also out there in the internet world is information on the general fact (inferred) that the 240Z's don't seem to have as much space between the flanges as the 280Z's. U-joint half-shafts bottom out when used with the R200 differential in the 240Z, but they're fine inthe 280Z's. BUT, on the other hand, for the 280Z's there seems to be at least an extra inch of space with the 6 bolt 280ZX CV axle. People make adapters, about an inch thick, to go from 6 bolt to 4 bolt, to allow using the axles with the stock 280Z companion flanges. Seems like you might have NA 300ZX axles.

I could be wrong. He said left to rright was mismatched, which shouldn't be. Maybe just one is bad. It's easy to check, either way.

Mark the input flange and the wheel's, then turn the input flange 3.7 times. The wheels will each turn exactly one revolution, if drag is equal on both sides. Or lock one wheel, and the other will turn two revolutions. Stuff like that will give a good approximation.

Looks like torn rubber in both strut mounts. I haven't had a torn mount but I've had my car up many times and the wheel's don't hang that low. You could reach your hand up in the strut tower and feel if there's a gap. With a good light and some contortions I thnk that you can see up there, with the wheel's off. One other possibility is that you didn't put the main nut on the shock/strut rod. Three nuts for the strut mount and the big nut for the shock rod, on top. Edit - Actually, the easiest way to see if the strut mount is doing its job is to eyeball the nut on the shock rod, from inside the car, while the wheels are hanging. You'll probably find that it's not where it should be and is deep in the hole instead.

The drawings in the Body Chapter of the FSM are probably better than any picture you'll see.

Here's another link from the same site - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electrical.htm Click on the 74 PDF file. Pages 6 and 7 might be the most helpful. It's odd that your brake lights are out also, Ithink that they have their own separate circuit from the running lights, headlights and turn signals. Maybe not. By "flashers" loy might have been referring to the Hazard lights. It's fairly common for the Hazard switch, the one by the Defrost switch under the radio, to get corroded and screw things up. Search around and you'll find some threads on cleaning it up.

Sounds like you already know a bunch. Did the resistance come back up when the coil cooled down? You said that it dropped by 2k ohms. The tach jumping aorund is a typical sign of the module going bad. But there could be other causes , my tach stopped working right (needle just quivered at ~500 RPM) after I installed a Z31 coil with a GM HEI module. A condenser/capacitor on the negative side brought it back to life. The tach and HEI module worked fine with a 78 Nissan coil, it was switching to the Z31 coil with the module that knocked it out. But the capacitor, a typical alternator style, fixed it. Some trivia...

I just spend some time messing around with options for something similar and talking to people about it. You'll have a stress riser right at the most critical length of the axle due to the change in material properties at the weld. Read the thread on jmortensen's shortened CV axles and you'll see how critical the heat treatment is to get the steel properties right. Sounds interesting though.

What circuit does Fuse #3 protect?

You didn't mention the crank angle sensor. I think that the ECCS produces spark based on the signal from the CAS. No CAS signal, no spark (or injector operation). It comes up occasionally but there doesn't appear to be an easy way to check the CAS sensor's functions. 83 is in the distributor, I believe. You might search aorund on CAS sensor to see if there's a way to check its functioning.

It's the amps that produce the heat. It may be that the 78 igntion module flows too much current for the Crane coil. The PS60 shows a primary resistance of 0.4 ohms on their page (below). Compare that to the 78 Z spec. of 0.84 - 1.02 ohms and you can see that a lot more current is flowing through the whole system than the 78 module is designed for and maybe the Crane coil also. The coil may be designed to have more resistance in the circuit. You're probably lucky if you haven't fried the Z ignition module. The description says compatible with all OE electronic ignition systems but the 78 Nissan system might be a little too primitve. There's more to designing an ignition system than just matching primary circuit resistance but it is one important factor, just to keep the heat down. I'm an electronics rookie and probably always will be but I wouldn't even change the 78 coil specs. without "upgrading" the module also. The modules are over 30 years old and crapping out on a regular basis. Putting more work through it can't be good. http://www.cranecams.com/416.pdf

From Post #9. It seems to me that one of the original problems was that the cam is bent a small amount (as pointed out in another forum also), since the binding is not consistent across 360 degress of rotation, it's only there for 20 degrees. That's what I meant to look for, in one of my posts about measuring cam "run-out", although that may not be best word for it. Just trying to help you avoid more pain in the future. As has been pointed out, there's a certain sequence to follow to end up where you want to be.

Old-style brake cleaner (chlorinated), MEK, ethyl acetate, acetone, THF or nail polish remover should work. The new environmentally friendly brake cleaner might work, I don't know what it's made of. Mineral spirits paint thinner probably not so good, not polar enough (chemistry term, sorry). http://www.loctite.com.au/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_aue/hs.xsl/3286_AUS_HTML.htm Near the middle of the page.

Looks like the downloadable EXTRA code does spark mapping. Maybe that's the "EXTRA" part. http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms1extra/MS_Extra_Basic_Configuration_Manual.htm#desextra http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html

Not to jump in front of PMC, if he even intended to reply, but is the head bent top to bottom or side to side? You seem to describing a side to side bend. Why would you use the manifold mounting holes otherwise? The plan doesn't fit the original problem. As far as fixing the "fixed" head - how thick is it now, from bottom surface to top surface? After all of the trips to the shops it has to be getting thin. Measure at each corner to get an idea of how parallel the surfaces are, just for fun, to see where you're at. Do you have the "How to Modify..." book or just the "How to Rebuild..." book. There's two books, and they're different. The straightening process is in the "How to Modify". I'll copy the page if you want to try it or show it to one of your shops, although it might be too late.

Search 280z blue springs on Google. There's at least one informative hit on the first page.

The early 280Z's used more pins/wires than the later ones. The later 280Z's had the pins in the AFM for the fuel pump contact switch but don't use them. Check the FSM for the wiring for your year of car, you should be able to figure out if you have the wires that you need. Edit - I overlooked the "75" in your title. If your EFI system is stock, you'll need those extra wires for the fuel pump contact switch. You'll need seven. Weirdly, for you, I think that even the 280Zx uses five.

Check (measure) your fuel pressure, and fuel flow for starters. Might be low.

Flip the level over and measure again. Do the same on the bottom of the head. Make sure the head is of even temperature throughout, cold on one side hot on the other will give some bend although I have no idea how much. There are much better tools out there for those measurements and many people here who know how to use them. I'm just throwing some basics out. You don't trust the shop? Didn't they tell you how "straight" the head was, or how much they cut? Didn't they have the cam towers to measure from since that was the ulitmate goal? This story gets weirder and weirder. Edit- actually, considering the whole thread, the real issue/question seems to be how much it would have cost to have it bored (line- to align, or align-, whatever your preference) and whether or not you could find a shop that knows how to bore aluminum camshaft bearing brackets (towers), (as opposed to steel crankshaft bearing journals). It seems easy in principle, so why didn't any of the "machine" shops you've been to suggest it. Seriously, if you took the head in to a shop and said "my camshaft is binding, how do I fix it", it seems like a shop with some experience would have measured camshaft run-out, then suggested a fix. It's odd that you haven't found a shop that can just look at the head and its parts and offer a fix, even if it's expensive. How can this be so hard?