NewZed

Too funny. I was also going to direct you here before - http://forums.hybridz.org/forum/68-new-members-forum/ - and suggest reading the first three threads but realized that actually did a fair job of capitalizing. But your second post is a fail on that issue. The ipad is supposed to a powerful computing machine, not like the iphone. How can your ipad not be able to download the FSM? You don't have the unzipping software, right? Try here, all you need is a pdf reader - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/ - you can download just the chapters that you need. So sad....

Go here and download the FSM - http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html Open the Clutch chapter...read. Read this thread too, just because it fits and it's so recent. It will be funny, if you're not too sensitive - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109702-hybridz-is-not-automotive-101/ Good luck.

That's the part. Looks like it even comes with new plastic for the rod clip. You should be able to reuse everything else. Hope you can make your hands tiny.

It was worth a shot. The FSM shows it on the side and on top also. I assume, at least, that it looks kind of like the 2nd picture.

When the interior panel is back on the door the inside handle won't be caught under that metal piece anymore. It will sit whre it's supposed to. Not sure why it 's hard to pull though. Your door handle is broken, as you thought, and it looks like the actuating rod has popped out of the hole it's supposed to sit in. Remove those two nuts and the handle will come out from the outside. There's a support piece on the inside and a gasket on the outside so remember where the pieces go and try not to tear the gasket, it might be painted on. You'll probably be able to maneuver the rod out with the handle. The top end of the bent rod will push out of the plastic piece in the handle, it's a snap fit, don't try to remove the plastic piece with the rod in it. Get another handle and you'll see what a good one looks like. Install the new handle then install the actuating rod, I don't think the rod will go where it's supposed to go when the handle is unbroken so you can't reinstall it fromthe outside with the rod attached. At least it wouldn't on my car. Bolt the new handle on, set the white adjustable end of the rod in it's hole, then use some long pliers or really strong fingers, with some WD40 or something to push the rod back in to the upper plastic clip on the handle. Then adjust the white nut up or down until you like the feel of how the door opens. You might need to add some goop or tape afterward to hold it in place so it doesn't walk out of adjustment during use. Good luck finding a handle, I think new ones are available out there somewhere. I got mine at a wrecking yard. Edit - writing while cg posted. Two for broken...

I see that this your first post. You might want to read this thread before feelings are hurt - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109702-hybridz-is-not-automotive-101/

Just curious - did you look before my post or after? Wondering if I'm really that good at figuring out what a drawing is showing, and if I added any value...

Have you looked at the bottom of the intake manifold? I've never seen one but that's where I'd look. Based on the drawing.

Do loop...

Read the Emissions (describes the PCV system) and Engine Fuel (describes how the EFI system works) chapters of the appropriate FSM. There are diagrams and descriptions of function. You'll be ahead later also when you're trying to get the engine running. Search the whole internet using Google and you'll see what PCV systems are for. They're actually good for an engine.

Could it be transferred brass? The dog teeth look pretty rounded anyway, don't they. The brokevw link had some good focus on the "sync keys", or "inserts" as Nissan calls them, and the springs underneath. I don't think that people pay much attention to them since they're small and it's not obvious what they do. There's a Hybridz post out there by HizandHerz about doing some work on the "baulk springs". I assume that he means the insert springs. You might have seen it already since he also mentioned lapping the synchro surfaces. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/58315-280zx-rough-shiftinghelp/page__p__537658__hl__synchro__fromsearch__1?do=findComment&comment=537658

Look at the other side of the plug. It's under the carpet. Probably aniifreeze from a leaky heater core or hoses.

The coil needs to have current flowing through it to work. It fires when the current is interrupted. You can have voltage but no current flow. Follow the circuit from the power supply, through the coil, and to wherever the circuit making and breaking hardware is (BIP373 probably, inyour case). The ignitor would do that job in the stock system, at the control of the ECU. The BIP373 transistor in MS should be doing that job now. If it's connected correctly, then the next thing to look at would be the signal that the ECU uses to control BIP373, probably the CAS. Power+ > coil + > coil windings > coil - > BIP337 > ground BIP337 grounds the circuit when the ECU controls it to do so.

I "Like"'d your post and got the message below, even though I've never Like'd anyhting before, let alone today. Apparently my positivity quota is zero, which is good since it's easy to achieve. But I only did it to see what would happen. What is supposed to happen? Is it like a contest, where you write your post with the goal of getting Like'ed? Like a LIKE ME video game? Is it a self-esteem enhancer? I don't get it. An error occurredYou have reached your quota of positive votes for the day

TD, he said that he put the stock regulator back on, in his Post #1 text-device based word dump (it's sad that I barely care about the crappy grammar and formatting anymore). The adjustable FPR was an attempt to "stop his fuel pump from shutting off" (the other problem). Two vey basic things to do would be to check for spark while cranking the engine over, and to measure the fuel pressure. If one of those is missing, it needs fixing. If you have both of those, then flooding is a likely problem, assuming that no plug wires have been removed and replaced, or something unusual has happened (did you move or remomve the distributor while working onthe FPR?). If you've removed and replaced the plug wires while you were working on the FPR, make sure they're not in reverse firing order. The engine will run like you described with them backward.

If you can get it started again watch the tachometer needle. When the ignition module goes bad it typically causes the tach to read high and the needle to jump all over the place, much faster than actual engine speed. I know you can link to youtube or add embed code. Don't know if the site hosts the files, probably not. Easiest to youtube it and link it.

Sounds more like ignition, maybe the ignition module or just the distributor cap and/or rotor, wires, magnetic pickup coil maybe, etc. Could be any of those, but your description is a lot like how my 76 ignition module went bad. It would do what yours is doing after a run up above 3,000 RPM, but would fix itself with a restart. Edit - forgot to say that "fuel pump shutting off" might not be happening, and it's really ignition module shutting down. Another sign. The injectors rarely get stuck, expecailly if they're used regularly. If they do stick, it's usually a small leak, not a big hairy one that would give your symptoms and not all of them at once. One thing, also rare, that might hold the injectors open though, is a bad ECU. Try banging on it and see what happens.

What's the other problem?

Here's a little...

I was going to offer you second gear from my trashed 5 speed but whoever broke it wore the dog gear pointss down to a lean-to shape from the original peaked, before the shift forks broke and the adapter plate bearing balls came out. Don't forget to check the leading edge of the inner splines/teeth on the coupling sleeve. If the dog teeth are beat, they might have some damage also.

Some sites have a "similar topics" list at the bottom of every thread. Essentially an effort-free search for the OP based on the words in the posts. Maybe the site could be programmed to respond with an automatic reply with those search results. A variety of snarky comments could be computer-generated for the amusement of others. Maybe even with sound and video. This would remove the personal tone of the "have you searched" replies from individual members, but still get the new member on the right path. After a certain number of posts the auto-response could be turned off.

Might be in one of your other threads, but it's not clear what cam you're using. Turbo cam or NA? If it's the turbo grind, why not run the stock factory spec.?

That is true. If you're replacing both VR and alt, money is saved, if you only need to replace one, probably not worth it just replace the bad part. Interesting tip on the pickup alternator. I browsed through RockAuto and found that 90 - 95 pickups (Edit - with the VG30 engine, the 2.4Ls were at 60 amps) seem to have the same shape, with a pully instead of the ribbed belt, but a different electrical connection,. But they are 70 amp, so for a little wiring work you could gain 10 amps on the high end with a bolt-in swap, and some rewiring. That's probably a better value since wires will be spliced anyway in the swap. Easier than swapping pullies on the Maxima alternator. It should probably be THE alt swap to do if anyone is going to do it instead of the ZX swap. I couldn't find a reference to a 95 amp alt though. To cd1105's post point - he's already in it and just trying to make it work.

It might be interesting to put some blueing on the gear synchro cones and see the wear pattern of the new synchros before you put it together. You mentioned lapping in the drivetrain.com synchros. Went out and looked at a box of parts from a destroyed 80-83 5 speed I have and the 1-2 shift fork is aluminum with brass wear pads. It's the only trans I've had apart so don't know if it's normal or not.

Typically the W/R wire from the back of the alt terminates at the starter lug, after feeding the fusible links along the way, the same point as the positive battery cable, and charges the battery through that point. If you only have your positive cable connected to the starter and no other wires to battery positive, then your battery won't get a charge. But your engine shouldn't start either since you'll have no excitation current to the alternator. But if you only have the EFI supply connected to the battery pos., through the green fusible link, then the engine might start, but not charge, unless it self excites at higher RPM from residual magnetism. That would probably show as low voltage at the battery, but regular charging voltage at the fusible links or alternator post. What else is connected to the battery positive post or the starter lug?