NewZed

Hate to be picky, but I'm pretty sure that the early Z31 ECU's don't "learn". They don't record engine parameters for future use and have a new "tune" ready when the engine is started. I think that they only store engine fault codes. They do self-trim "on-the-fly" as the engine is running via sensor inputs like the O2 sensor and they do some self-maintenance like burning off the MAF wires, but I can't find anything that says there is any kind of programming incorporated that records "knowledge" of the engine and saves a new file for operating the engine. Every engine start is from scratch, I believe, and the self-trimming begins new every time. Resetting the ECU doesn't lose anything but fault codes. I might be wrong but that's what I get out of the various descriptions of how they work, that I can find. Could be semantics but compared to the Nistune, which can store a user-specified startup file and default file (as I understand it) for when sensor parameters might be out of range (WOT, for example) it might matter for the conversation. I bring it up because the FSM implies that default values are used at idle. The O2 sensor isn't even used. The engine idle parameters should be the same every time the engine is started. What you noticed may have just been from the engine warming up or the MAF wires getting cleaned or the O2 sensor drying out or some other new parts thing (no offense).

That's where the antenna switch is on my car, 1976. Mine is a factory-installed (as far as I can tell) spring-loaded momentary switch though, not an on-off.

The alarm might have been used to activate a relay which may still be in the starter circuit. You'll probably just have to trace the wire from switch to starter. If someone has messed with the wiring to install the alarm, no person or FSM diagram is going to be able tell you where to look to fix the problem, because there's no way to know what the installer did. You could just run a new wire. Get the wiring diagram and run new wires to the appropriate places. You'll probably find the problem while you're doing that.

What kind of engineering do you teach?

The guy in your link is talking about modifying the timing advance curves. The distributor will "work", triggering spark from the coil, but it may not be optimum, depending on how you want the engine to run.

You left a zero off after the 5.

There's quite a bit of information out there on using the GM HEI module. Search the words on the internet and you'll find it. If you have original wiring you might find a specific write-up for your car, or you can figure out what the various pieces do and go from there. There are only five connections on the module to worry about, the four pins and the ground. You'll have to do the same with the ZX module, but three of the circuits are already connected internally for that one. You can use the GM module on the ZX distributor also, by removing the stock E12-80 box and rewiring. If I had those two distributors and both were used, the first thing I would do is take them apart and see which one is in the best mechanical condition. Most of the old distributors are pretty well corroded inside by now. Might make your choice for you.

Looks like diode testing. Put your meter in diode mode ->| and test as shown, positive on g, negative on a = no continuity, negative on g, pos. on a = continuity. My meter beeps for continuity and shows a value in volts (I don't really know what the value means though). Go down the rows g/a, g/b etc., then g/1, g/2... Looks like 36 tests. One bad value and you're N.G. I'm no electronics guy but I was just messing with some alternator diodes earlier today and had to figure out the +/- continuity thing for testing.

One sounds like a ZX distributor, or Maxima, the other like a 75-78 280Z. The centrifugal and vacuum advance curves are most likely different from each other and both different from a typical, early, carb'ed engine's stock distributor. The total centrifugal advance will be stamped on the weights (under the breaker plate) but you won't know which springs you have, so won't know when it starts and when it's all-in. If they have blue wires, they're probably rebuilt so will have a "rebuilt" vacuum advance canister, of unknown characteristics (I think that the rebuilders use conservative specs. to avoid blowing up engines). There's really not much you can tell just by looking. Neither is probably ideal for your engine, but both will probably work. The 280Z dist. might be better since the ZX distributors were designed to run engines with lots of emissions controls. But the ZX distributor already has an ignition module (one reason the ZX distributor is popular, because it's easy to plug in and go if swapping from points), you'll need to get one for the 280Z distributor (the GM HEI module will work well and is cheap).

One down. OReilly Auto is not known for the high quality of the parts they sell. Take the MC back and get a refund or get another and try again. The pedal can't go to the floor unless the seals stop sealing, therefore... Throw a few capital letters and some punctuation in to your posts also, it will improve your thought processes and make these types of problems much easier to solve. It's like exercise for the brain. (edited for mellowness).

More amps (amperes, not amplifiers).

The pedal slams to the floor because, probably, your master cylinder seals are blown. Was the "new" MC old? Corrosion happens and will destroy the seals. The brake light goes on if there's a pressure differential between front and back. There might still be a big air bubble in your lines. Check that the bleed valve for the calipers is on top, not on the bottom. The calipers are reversible.

That Dirty Jobs guy is everywhere.

PCV tube. You don't want any coolant going in there.

Did you measure voltage at the starter or are you assuming there's no power because it doesn't turn? There's a lot of basics missing here, like the battery's charge level, condition of the battery posts, any actual voltage measurements, etc. Sounds like you just have a dead battery or dirty terminals.

The part that's not clear is what you mean when you say the pump doesn't work. If the pump turns, then the problem is most likely not electrical. But you're theorizing, above, about blocked fuel lines which implies that the pump is turning but no fuel is flowing. In your first post you said that the pump hasn't "fired" since you parked the car. What does "fired" mean? You said that the ground is connected, but you didn't say that you confirmed it's actually grounded, electrically. If you have 12 volts at the positive terminal, take a separate jumper or piece of wire and make sure that the negative terminal is grounded back to the battery. If the pump doesn't turn, don't worry about blocked fuel lines. You'll have to listen to the pump to find out if the pump is turning, or measure the voltage drop across the terminals like Domzs suggested. Listening is easier.

Might get better information from a Chevy V8 forum.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/19918-the-ultimate-turbo-faqbeginners-guide/

In case anyone else wants to compete - http://grantcontest.fedex.com/fedex-small-business-grant-contest/microsite Or just understand what the contest is about.

Thought you might have a second pickup coil and wonder how it gets used. No biggy, enjoy the old EFI system.

Maybe there should be a separate "Automotive 101" sub-forum. Then the "serious" forums won't get muddied up, but there will be a spot for the simple questions. Pinned at the top of the 101 forum could be the links to the xenon sites for FSMs, and various 101 type links, like "how an alternator works" and similar. Simple posts can get moved to 101 instead of exiled to the Tool Shed. Win-win.

All of the sensors are described in the FSM. Some have interesting functions. Have you looked under your distributor cap yet?

I miss the Tool Shed. It doesn't seem to be getting much use any more.

(Edited several times after staring at the drawing) The attached picture suggests that full droop actually lengthens the half-shaft and suspension compression shortens the shafts (I'm using "half-shaft" to describe both styles, CV and u-joint). This might explain a few things. A car lowered to allow compression beyond the factory design could bind the shafts. The drawing is from the 1976 RA chapter, but I assume that the 240Zs are the same. Someone with some drawing skills could probably calculate the amount of movement based on the arcs of travel of the link and the axle. More food for thought - It could be that Nissan designed the loose rubber mounting on the differential to allow sideways movement under extreme suspension compression to avoid binding. I've always wondered why the mustache bar rubber was so loose.

The attached picture suggests that full droop actually lengthens the half-shaft and suspension compression shortens the shafts (I'm using "half-shaft" to describe both styles, CV and u-joint). This might explain a few things. A car lowered to allow compression beyond the factory design could bind the shafts. It could also be that Nissan designed the loose rubber mounting on the differential to allow sideways movement under extreme suspension compression. The drawing is from the 1976 RA chapter, but I assume that the 240Zs are the same. Someone with some drawing skills could probably calculate the amount of movement based on the arcs of travel of the link and the axle.