NewZed

With the EFI system you really have to be able to identify and separate the various issues if you want to get things running right. In your first post you said that you bought the car knowing it had a problem and it's gotten progressively worse. Now you're saying that it never did this for a month, then started and got worse. So it's either an old problem that maybe a PO tried to fix, or it's a totally new problem. Plus, you changed the intake/exhaust gasket for some reason. Maybe you fixed a problem, maybe you created a new one when you changed the gasket. It's easy to get the various symptoms and potential solutions mixed up. That's why taking measurements, even of components that you're positive are good, will help you determine what's really wrong and get all of the parts working together. Edit - don't forget to check your TPS. If it's stuck on wide open, the ECU will dump fuel. Maybe you banged it when you removed the manifolds. Best to sit at the ECU plug with the FSM and take all of the measurements you can from the connector, with a friend to move various parts like the AFM vane and the throttle.

The EFI "bible" is easier to use but the Factory Service Manual has the specific numbers you need to compare your readings to. www.xenons30.com/reference There is a table of resistance versus temperature for the coolant sensor in the Engine Fuel chapter. The proper numbers for the AFM readings are there also. I'm not sure what you mean by #1, #2 and #3, but I assume that those are the tests for the AFM potentiometer. I do know that the 77 AFM should have a 180 ohm and a 100 ohm reading at the AFM. Looks like your AFM readings might be off. Here's a picture from the 76 manual, the procedure is the same as for 77. AFMs are expensive. Some people have had luck with cleaning up the carbon trace and contacts. If yours is bad, you might try that. The ECU uses the AFM to determine how much fuel to add. From what I've seen they usually go bad on the lean side, so that might not be your only problem.

Bonus info - the ZX didn't appear until 1979. But the 79 ZX did have the N47 head, as did the 78 280Z. The head will swap straight over for the N42, without even removing the camshaft, or any of the rocker arms. The N42/N42 and N42/N47 engines are essentially identical, except for the shape of the head's exhaust ports, and the liners in the N47 head's ports. If the other engine is in decent shape, it might actually be easier to swap engines. Just something to think about. The main advice would be to download the FSM from the xenons30 site and read the Engine Mechanical chapter BEFORE you take anything apart. You need to tell the story about how you screwed up the N42 head though, just to keep people interested.

inline's thread is cursed. Even with a picture, people keep coming up with the wrong part. That's a front diff mount, az240z.

Drift car? You never mentioned that. MAF? Hot wire or stock 83 vane type AFM? The BCDD that you shaved off would normally add air to clean up the closed throttle mixture. Some of the other stuff might also be designed to lean things out. Hesitates, then goes, is more like a lean mixture. But 440 cc injectors with a stock Z31 ECU almost guarantees rich. Looks like just a mis-match of parts and ECU. Reading back through the thread, it's kind of odd that you ended up with this setup. Even the Z31 ECU is designed to work with a certain set of parts, I don't think that you can stray far from stock. It's not self-tuning, as I understand it.

I knew it was too easy. Pretty sure that there are two styles for the 240Z - bolt directly to the body with four bolts, and mounted to ears on the body with two long through bolts. You should probably specify year.

You need to get some numbers. Fuel pressure, coolant sensor resistance versus temperature at the ECU plug, etc. If it runs better with the sensor unplugged, then you have a lean problem. Maybe low fuel pressure, for example, or clogged injectors.

Almost impossible to diagnose without measuring the basics, like fuel pressure, CHTS resistance versus temperature at the ECU plug, etc. Someone may have "tuned" your AFM to make up for a different messed-up part. Maybe someone installed high flow injectors in a misguided attempt for more power. Many possible causes for the "running rich" problem.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1972-Nissan-Datsun-240Z/Transmission-Mount/_/N-iplx9Z6o23q?filterByKeyWord=mount&fromString=search Got one for a 76, it seemed of good quality. Wouldn't buy a used one, the 40 year old rubber will be sagged and soft (no offense to anyone 40 or over).

At 2:36, it sounds like the diff's locking function wasn't even being used. Sounded like neutral power to the diff on the audio, no decceleration, no acceleration. The sliding looks like my car right after I got it running and drove around on wet streets with 10 year old tires.

What did you mean by "cut the bearing race off"? You need two surfaces for the outer (larger diameter) races, and a means to clamp the inner races together with a spacer in-between. The strut holds the outer races and the hub rides on the inners. Loads transferred by the bearings. Ball bearings in the rear, not rollers, for the 240Z's and 280Z's, maybe in general for the rear bearings. As I understand things, no expert.

Sounds like you're already trying this and partway there. You said in #7 you were looking for a 33mm inner, but then reported looking for a 32mm in #8. Good luck, looks interesting.

The benefit would be a five lug hub? How do you plan to hold the hub to the strut. Are you asking about fitting bearings or machining things to fit or both? The small details are usually the killers.

Sorry, you caught me goofing around. I searched "cast pistons" and found a lot of reading, it's a fairly popular topic. Here's a good thread - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108206-broken-ring-land-lame/page__pid__1015399__st__20#entry1015399. The extra power you'll get from more RPM would depend on the other components. The pistons just let you take advantage without breaking. Piston decision should probably come after you know what the engine design is capable of.

Higher RPM.

I don't know if this thread's results fit your board, but might give you some ideas - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108839-looking-for-help-fixing-ms1-problem/page__p__1017712__hl__cramer__fromsearch__1#entry1017712

Didn't change the cylinder pressure or didn't change the no-start after driving? More details will help you out. You said the car won't start after you drive it around but obviously it will after a certain amount of time. How much time? Coolant temperature? Checking cylinder pressure after the engine ran well is not really one of the first things to be done to diagnose a no-start. Working on cylinder pressure results is probably a wild goose chase.

Painting everything they make with the broad "it all sucks" brush doesn't teach anyone anything. And, "it's a spray painted junk yard part" is obviously wrong. It's a rebuilt junk yard part, I don't think that they even paint them. Back to the OP's question though, about injectors and distributors, I can't even find that Cardone makes injectors for a gas engine, I only see diesel. So that question might be irrelevant. The 1978 280Z Cardone distributor is sold by O'Reilly and Autozone, and it looks like Napa rebrands the same part as a Napa rebuild, aan dit's the only option for all three. Cardone might be the only supplier of rebuilt distributors so the question is moot, unless you go to zspecialties (datsunstore) or one of the Z-focused shops. Much more expensive. http://www.datsunstore.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=distributor&x=0&y=0

Are you testing at the T plug or at the point you cut the old wire? Your results on the white/black wire are what you would expect for the L wire. No power with the key off, and power with the key on. The charge light should go on when it's grounded, assuming it's the right wire that comes through the lamp. If you have a test light, you could ground through the T plug through the light (to avoid a dead short if it's the wrong wire) and the charge lamp should glow with the key on. It's also possible but a little unlikely that the alternator does not have a good ground, or that it's bad. Check the ground through the alternator case. Power should come through the lamp, down the wire to the T plug and in to the windings then ground.

Peel the rubber boot off of the slave cylinder and see if there's fluid inside. It might be on the edge of going bad. It looks pretty old.

The stuff that matters is usually on the inside, not the outside.

The picture says torque converters are very heavy...

What model and year car?

Your clutch slave looks normal. The threaded rod with the nut on it should move when the pedal is pressed. But there's no reason for the engine to "stall" when you press the clutch pedal. Maybe you're pressing the brake pedal at the same time, and you actually have a brake booster vacuum leak. Start the engine and press the brake pedal without touching the gear shift lever or the clutch pedal. The fact that you didn't mention grinding is odd also, if the engine is running and the slave was bad, normally you would just get grinding and engine RPM would not even be affected.

You're trying to use the 78 EFI harness? There are changes from 77. The biggest might be the fuel pump relay wiring from the AFM. 77 used the AFM, 78 used the oil pressure and alternator to control the relay. You won't have the AFM wires in the 78 harness. Might be better to use the 77 harness if it's available. There are several changes to the body wiring also, like no ballast and an internally regulated alternator in 78. Other stuff - you'll have two pins on the 78 oil pressure switch but will only use one.