NewZed

You could have had it running and blown up by now, and been on to another head. You know it's going to self-destruct anyway. Just run it.

Good point on the daul cone, I forgot about that. Otherwise, though, I think that the single baulk ring synchros are exactly the same. On the clutch, don't forget that after the swap the trans has an L6 bellhousing. The only clutch part bolted to the trans is the slave cylinder and it's still bolted to the same L6 bell. So there's no need to change any of the clutch parts.

You might be able to find it here - http://nissan4u.com/parts/info/43244A0800/ And order it here - http://www.courtesyparts.com/screw-p-359474.html I picked a "screw" but don't know if it's what you're looking for.

This might help. There are parts inside the rear drums that typically need cleaning and adjustment also. If the parts work right, the rear brakes adjust automatically.

Didn't mean to kill your thread. Here's one, re the 16 mm shift rod hole - I used a 16 mm drill bit and a drill press to very carefully enlarge the shift rod hole to 16 mm. It was too small and the shift rod bound up during test-fitting. So I used an aluminum rod, some scrothbrite and zip ties, and a hand drill to hone it out until it worked. I don't think it needs to be super accurate, the shift fork itself is pretty loose on the coupling sleeve.

You might have damaged the seal in the master cylinder. Apparently, the rubber seal can get damaged when it travels over areas that haven't seen a seal in a while. Look in the reservoir while someone presses the pedal and see if the fluid is going anywhere. Careful when it comes back it might squirt out of the reservoir if the cap is off.

When you push the pistons back in the calipers to get room for the new pads it can take a few pumps to get them pushed back out again, to get the pads to contact the rotor. Maybe you just need to pump the pedal a few more times.

Turn the idle speed control screw in. It's on the throttle body, with a Phillips-style head and a spring underneath. Pictures in the manual. You can turn it by hand.

What is your brake check light doing? Probably doesn't work anymore (I think it doesn't come on now since that's where the drain was attached), but may not be a big deal to you since you can tell problems through brake performance anyway. That's the difference between the two writeups. Battery drain or non-working brake check light.

I asked because some of the people who put the effort in to sharing that information are members here. Like Nigel, who created this writeup - http://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041 - and Blue, who played a part in the atlanticz link. If you don't show your references you'll get answers from the same people who already gave you the information that you're wondering about. There are a few threads on this site that cover some of the questions, like the one about driveshaft length. I think that the 1-4 synchros (baulk rings) are the same part, from 1971 to well in to the 1990's 240SX transmissions. And the 240SX transmissions have 71H as the designator. Nissan used the 71_ transmssions in a lot of different cars and trucks and changed the last letter and some parts and dimensions along the way.

Post the links that you've already looked at so people know where you're coming from. There are three that get referenced quite often.

Do you live near a radio tower? I had a CD player that wouldn't work until I surrounded it with a Farady cage built from copper mesh. I took it back to the store twice and it played perfectly, intalled it at home and it wouldn't do anything. My apartment was about 100 feet from the antenna. Just another noise anecdote. Maybe your serial cable from the MS ECU to the computer needs shielding.

I looked in to using the Pathfinder axles to make a hybrid axle and found that the CV replacement axle manufacturers (CARDONE for example) are now making their own axles, with their own spline count and joint style. In other words, if you buy a "new" Pathfinder or any other axle from a parts store, it will most likely not be like a new or used factory axle, and will have a different spline count on the axle. It's described on the various manufacturer web sites. Wouldn't be surprising either if they all come from the same place. I also looked at a rebuilt axle in OReilly auto to take some measurements and found, like others have noted, that it seemed like a pretty poor job of rebuilding. The plunging joint was binding up as I tried to move it and it felt generally gritty. So anyone looking to do this will be somewhat limited in choices and should take care that they get what they think they're getting.

Doesn't it look like the second set of injector bungs is cast as part of the manifold? It doesn't look like a modified stock manifold with welded-on bungs, it looks like a factory casting. Seems like runner size would have been considered to take advantage of the extra fuel. What are the numbers/letters on the top of the manifold that you can almost see in the first picture?

If it's been sitting 20 years there could be rust on the gears, and/or the flywheel. The brass synchro rings ride on steel cones. You didn't mention reverse, which doesn't have a synchro. Try putting it in first gear, then start it with the clutch pedal pushed down. If it's still up in the air, engage the parking brake so the wheels don't spin. After it starts you'll be able to tell where the engagement point is with the clutch pedal. That will tell you if the clutch is fully disengaging or not. Working the clutch will wear any rust off of the flywheel also.

It's not a Z but there's probably more than a few here who can appreciate the shock value... http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=20f_1354282769

My 76 did the same thing after I got it road-worthy. The PO had installed the calipers on the wrong sides, with the bleed valves low instead of high. Poor brakes in general, the brake light would go on when the brakes were used due to the pressure imbalance from the big air bubble in the fronts, and the rears would lock if you pressed hard enough.

In Post #5 you said that you had left the S wire disconnected on the advice of the shop owner. Are you sure she didn't mean the L wire? With no (S)ense wire the alternator will put out maximum voltage. That might be what fried your battery.

I just got blocked again right after I posted the above, but now (obviously) I'm back in. I'll get a screen shot next time. Blocked in both Chrome and Firefox. In one browser a "Log in" link shows but clicking it just gets you back to the "You're not allowed to enter this community" message. Won't even go to the Log In screen.

I had it this morning about 2 hours ago. Got the message several times. Firefox 16.0.2, Windows XP with all of the Service Packs. Didn't try the other browsers.

Macpherson struts are 20% off at PicknPull until December 2. If you said what you'd pay you might give someone incenitve to go out and earn a few dollars.

http://forums.hybrid...__hl__spray bar Copy, from the location bar at the top of the browser, and paste seems to work for me. Here's the link.

Posted a new thread in Area 51 showing one way to get pictures in to a thread. There may be other ways but this seems to work. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/110184-addimg-images-to-a-thread-by-uploading-them-to-the-gallery/#entry1030029

This link should help you out - http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

Did the shop owner swap the pulleys? The internet says that the Premier/Monaco alternator is a six rib pulley, not v-belt. And, are you just using the S and L pins on the back of the alternator, connected to S and L at the car's T plug? Looks interesting. Thanks for posting an extra option. How is it under low idle speed brown-out conditions - wipers, headlights, and heater on? Here's a useful link for any future modifiers. Napaonline.com shows the pinout for the alt plug along with their product descriptions - http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=RAL134551F_0209469829