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NewZed

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Everything posted by NewZed

  1. I didn't watch any of the videos. Too much time, I like words. Did it vibrate when you held the clutch pedal down? Disengaging the transmission from the engine and flywheel? Did you install a pilot bushing in the main/drive/"crank" shaft? If the nose of the transmission shaft is not supported and centered it will orbit around a center point. Off-axis. When you disengage the transmission, using the clutch, the main shaft of the transmission stops spinning.
  2. Actually, fuel wouldn't matter. Should have called it pseudo or alternative dyno. The car is the dyno.
  3. Thanks. Sorry to be so blunt. It actually looks like something almost brilliant, after thinking about it, especially considering that it looks like one guy put most of it together. All of the data is there to do a decent calculation, with the AFR determining how much fuel was burned and the rate of RPM increase, along with other variables, being used to determine acceleration. Ideally, of course, you'd be on the Bonneville salt flats with zero wind. But, a flat road on a calm day is pretty close. Thanks for posting. I learned something new.
  4. Define load. Load is inertia. Inertia is rate of change of speed. Edit - indirectly. Again, no offense, always nice to try out new stuff. But just because somebody wrote a nice software package doesn't mean it's right. Today's world is full of apps and software and devices and promises that we're all just trusting blindly. The fact that people say it tends to match direct measurements is nice. Just need some verification. And"it's all there in my first post" is a stretch. See image. It's only true if you already know about "Virtual Dyno".
  5. You should have noted all of that in your first post, and you should have gotten correct weight, I think. Especially the weight, since the software depends on it. You showed 200 HP and a curve with a description that sounded like a mechanical dyno. It all makes sense, but just like differentiating between the dyno machines, you should do the same with a software "dyno". The basic premise is not really like a mechanical dyno, it depends on many more variables. Each variable can introduce error. Even something simple like the wrong speedo gear, I assume. The software must use speed to calculate acceleration. Have you had your speedo calibrated?
  6. No offense intended Gollum. It does make one nervous though.
  7. A guy wrote some software and, apparently, many people are downloading it. But, not understanding how it works. Could be ransomware. Weird! https://barnhill.bitbucket.io/ http://www.bradbarnhill.com/ This is the explanation for "What is Virtual Dyno?". No explanation.
  8. First I've heard of it. A Google turns up a web site that clicks through to a different address. Can't find a straight answer about how it works. So, how does it work? https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=wOh5XPCiO4bV-gSH1J6ABA&q=virtual+dyno&btnK=Google+Search&oq=virtual+dyno&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0l10.1519.4254..4643...0.0..0.57.545.12......0....1..gws-wiz.....0..0i131j0i10.yDoexiGlHOM
  9. Are you using one of those accelerometer iphone apps? They're neat but not sure that they really count for much. No offense. Lots of potential error. Probably good for maximizing a tune but the power numbers will be suspect.
  10. You might look at the other end of the wire to see what it does. Always a good idea when working with wiring.
  11. All of the plugs are white. There's a bunch. Might be one of these. Nissan draws the correct plug shape in their diagrams. The full size diagram has wire colors.
  12. The RT mount should already be right. The early 240Z forward-mounted diff is "wrong". I'll quit now...
  13. You can tell if the diff is right because the half-shafts will be perpendicular with the wheels. You can shim the GM mount downward to get the right angle. With the KA transmission (71C) the short propeller shaft will be correct. You moved the diff back, so the shaft needs to be lengthened, not shortened, to use the stock transmission. So an RT mount with GM mount, shimmed downward, and the short propeller shaft with a 71C swap should get everything right.
  14. Not used. "Control unit checking terminal". They just hang there and confuse all of us that run across them.
  15. Might be easier for you to just get the GM transmission mount and hang the diff from your Technoversion R/T mount. Even with the snubber you can still get some thumping as the diff nose moves up and down. But you might have a new problem, in that your propeller shaft is not as engaged as it was. It's pulled out of the transmission by that /12 inch you mentioned. Better check spline engagement.
  16. Put the old one back on and see if you still have the problem. Compare the old one to the new one. Check the body chapter for dimensions.
  17. Sounds like your injectors aren't opening. No fuel. Apparently you have spark since it runs with starting fluid. That might be the blue wire to Pin 1 at the ECU, or it could be a bad ECU. But the AFM is not part of the process. Could also be that you've lost power to the EFI system and/or injectors. Use a meter to check for voltage at the injectors and at the ECU. If you've lost power check your fusible links. The shop might have knocked the EFI link loose if they disconnected the battery, it's connected directly tho the positive post. They might also have switched the fusible link connector with the EFI ground connector. They look the same at the battery. That would be bad.
  18. Do you mean the turbo distributor/CAS? With the disc with the holes? The NA distributor is really no different than a 280Z distributor. You could even use a Pertronix-converted 240Z distributor.
  19. You could do the power-to-weight ratio calculation. Might help. Here's some interesting comments from a bunch of the race guys, all in one thread. TimZ made a whole bunch of power.
  20. Separate power from RPM. Some of the parts you're looking at are for high RPM purposes. If you keep the RPM down you can make power for cheap with a turbo, without destroying things. Some people recommend building a throwaway engine, tuning it to the power level you want, then mimicking it with more durable parts. You might find that 250 HP is more than enough and you don't need the expensive parts. Your 300 HP goal is really just picked from air, isn't it?
  21. There's some good stuff in this thread - https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50208-the-ultimate-l28et-guidewhat-you-need-for-350whp/
  22. That seems odd. In 1972 they were at 29 degrees centrifugal by 2000 RPM. Even higher depending on which spec you look at. Up to 33 (17 + 16) or higher, 17 + 20, maybe. (Nissan has conflicting info in their FSM's).
  23. This thread might help. Similar topic. And the FSM has wiring diagrams. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129664-troubleshooting-issues-280zxt-fsm/?tab=comments#comment-1210880
  24. One way that people test the CAS is to pull the distributor (the CAS is inside, the disc with the holes), turn the key on, and spin the distributor by hand. If the CAS is working and the ECCS computer is getting a good CAS signal the injectors will open and click as it spins. If you don't get injector opening then there's a CAS and/or computer problem. If you get injector opening but no spark, you probably have an ignitor, coil, or distributor problem. Also, if you decide to probe the CAS with a meter, you have to do it from the back of the plug while it's connected. With a good meter sometimes you can see the CAS signal. I think that cg has posted on that also. Here's a Google search with some good reading: https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=UAJeXKWcFNrA0PEPjPyTyA0&q=site%3Ahybridz.org+cgsheen+cas&btnK=Google+Search&oq=site%3Ahybridz.org+cgsheen+cas&gs_l=psy-ab.3...1162.8970..10635...0.0..0.62.1027.28......0....1..gws-wiz.....0..0j0i131j0i10.QSMwtW6q4j4
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