NewZed

The 78 system has a lot more parts and connections to get screwed up. You're starting in the right spot, the fusible links. Classiczcars.com has wiring diagrams and factory service manuals. They'll help a lot for troubleshooting, with a meter.

Did you actually check voltage at the pump? Or just assume that it had no power because it's not working? Om the 78's you can disconnect the oil pressure sender and the pump should get power when the key is on. Easier than trying to measure it while cranking. That will at least tell you if the pump circuit is complete.

You confirmed that the S terminal wire shows battery voltage? It's connected to the battery? If it doesn't the new 90 amp will do the same thing.

zhoob asks a good question, but your other thread says Z32 transmission. Are you using one of these, for the 6 speed Z33 trans? https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/collins-adapters-ls-engine-to-350z-370z-vq-6-speed-trans-adapter-plate-with-11-clutch-disc.html One possibility is that when you pull the lever down from 5th, nothing actually happens internally. It stays in 5th. So, does the speed change or RPM drop when you shift in to the mystery gear? Or do the RPM stay the same? And, of course, is there another slot, where R should be?

No offense. I broke your ad up in to its most basic elements just to get a feel for it. Break it up and put a price on each item and see if they all add up to $7000. Might be informative. The body and the parts to make a 280Z might go pretty quick if priced right, and they'll free up the most space.

Nissan has several adjustment procedures in the FSM that can conflict, then they don't have specific "readjust" instructions. The rear bearings are pretty simple, you're just clamping a spacer, the "distance piece", between two bearing inner races. Unless the distance piece is thought of as crushable, there is no adjustment possible. The parts are all supposed to be measured and fitted before installation, then torqued, and that's about all you can do. Are people confirming that their distance pieces are parallel on the ends, and the bearings are seating properly? A little tilt would put a lot of leverage on the shaft end. There are five surfaces that need to be parallel. Just some things to consider. Edit - one more thought. If it was mine I'd assemble the stack of two bearings, the distance piece, and the nut together outside of the hub as a quick check of specs. If it's close to right there won't be any gaps. If it's not you'll probably see something. Could be the threaded ends are cut off-axis, which would put the nut off.

Both of you should just post your contact information to see if it's the same. It is a business, not a private residence. And how long have you been waiting for a response. One month is not the same as one day. And post the actual torque value used, not "correct", and any details like if never-seize was used. Plus any other details, like maybe peening the lock nut crimp in with a sledge hammer. No reason not to speculate. That's what the forums are about. Joe doesn't need protection. The design elements shown are not very good, as far as stress risers are concerned. Kind of surprising. Does that hardness test take in to account the curvature of the shaft?

Probably the "reaction disc" in the booster. A common enough problem that it has an FAQ entry. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/69706-reaction-disk-pictures-and-walkthrough/

I'm not a real MOD. But thanks for the better writing. It looks so much better. This guy might know how to reach him. They live in the same area. Check the second post of this thread. There's a website link in his profile. http://forums.hybridz.org/profile/4498-zachary-ard/ https://store.acadianasportscars.com/ @Zachary Ard

There are other people selling fuel rails. If Pallnet is unreachable. Use Google. Doesn't seem like you're putting work in to it besides poorly written posts from your phone. Google...soooo much effort.... @pallnet

Changing the master cylinder changes the amount of force required at the pedal to achieve stopping power, and the distance the pedal travels. It's really about pedal feel, not performance, so it's more personal preference than "required". blu didn't really give enough info to answer his question. Post a link to the brakes. Not even sure who "z car garage" is.

There was a recent thread about damper bolts and red loctite that has some good facts in it. There's no lock washer. The keyway got worn because the damper was loose, not vice-versa. The key isn't meant to hold the damper. It's for locating it's rotational position. The fact that your first damper was loose is a sign that something's wrong, either damaged crank snout or the wrong parts So when you replaced one damper with another you just kept the same damage and/or the same wrong parts. Just with a different damper. It's a simple looking part with a lot of complex engineering behind it. You need to find the directions and follow them exactly. Good luck.

Just circling back. Lots of wrong here. "noticed balancer was loose so put a spare on". It's like you got super-lucky but didn't heed the warnings. You said the balancer "broke off". Is there a piece left? Or did it fall off and you were actually running with no belts? Should have at least since the charge light come on, besides the overheating. Not clear how bad this really was. Guessing that a piece broke off, allowing oil to leak past the seal, but the damper and pulley were intact, and the bolt was still in place. A sign that the bolt was not putting force on the damper hub. Probably did a bunch of damage. You might not even be able to get another damper on. They're typically set as light interference fits. Try to fit the old damper and see. If it won't fit, a new one probably won't either. Good luck.

You need to do more study on the dampers, bolts and washers. It's not just Loctite and torque. The length of the bolt has to fit the thickness of the damper and the washer underneath and the washer's seat has to be right for the damper. Sounds like you have a mismatched set. theistuation is more comlicated than u ar realizing.

Now that your relays are right, be aware that 1976 uses a fuel pump relay contact switch in the AFM, and a separate Start power circuit. Starting then dying quickly is a common sign of the AFM switch not staying closed, due to low air flow. The engine's intake system, including the crankcase (the PCV system is connected to the intake system), needs to be sealed so that all air entering the engine passes through the AFM. Any leak, like a missing oil fill cap, will cause the AFM vane to stay closed and the switch to open, killing pump power. It's a safety feature.

There is an open channel between the windshield and the seal. Water can leak in from one place on the outside and a different place on the inside. Take it for a drive and see if water appears from nowhere and beads up on the inside of the lower corner of the seal when going around a corner. It can also leak through the door by the window and out between the door panel and the door. Run your fingers along the bottom of the door panel and check for wetness.

The drive shafts (Nissan calls them propeller shafts) are not the same lengths.

Just a thought, that might actually end up looking good. Cut the back off of a power steering pump and use the front as an idler. If the bearing and pulley are designed to take the load in the front it might even be sound, engineering-wise. Who knows, the back of the pump might even unbolt. Worst case, it provides the measurements for a fabbed-up idler pulley.

The other things connected to the power source can cause a voltage drop, but they won't cause zero voltage, like you reported the first time at the relay. That has to be a broken circuit. Not sure that the floor temp lamp or sensor would be involved in a zero reading. Your ignition switch tests don't say if you wiggled the wires or the connector, or the key. You said the problem was sporadic, sometimes there, sometimes not. Those are are the worst kinds of problems because you have to reproduce whatever causes the randomness. So you tested once but can't confirm much from that single test. I'm not sure how you're doing your measurements but you might start measuring with the connectors connected. Through the back of the plug. Then if you get a zero at the relay you can go back to the switch and see if it's zero, or the other side of the relay. And don't overlook the connectors themselves. I had a T plug at an alternator that looked fine but was not making electrical contact. I've also had my starter solenoid wire do that (almost bought a new starter but wiggled some wires first). When you get an odd result wiggle connectors while your meter is still connected. Tap the relay to see if the solenoid is stuck. Good luck, I've spent some time figuring things like this out and you have to think outside the box when you're getting weird results.

That sounds more like a bad ignition switch. It's not uncommon. Pin 71 gets its power directly from the switch. The pins in the electrical switch can get loose and have sporadic and weak contact. I had one, it was the Start pin, and it took me quite a while to figure out. You might remove the switch and check it, along with its wiring. The hardest part is removing one of the little screws that has a one-way head on it. Theft protection. Here is a link to a very nice color diagram. By a member there called Saridout. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/ Here's a picture of the part, and its source link. It's behind the key. I had to restake the copper on the back to fix mine. https://zcardepot.com/all-products/electrical/ignition-switch

Your continuity tests might be confusing you. Better to measure resistance. And study the wiring diagram. If you look at the diagram I posted before you can see that Pin 34 is the ground circuit for the air regulator. And it's on the same circuit as the power supply for the pump. So if you measure continuity you are measuring back through the air regulator to ground. The pump ground wire is also connected to ground. So they are connected, circuit-wise, but only via a common ground and common power supply. The pump and air regulator are branches on the same circuit. If you measured resistance instead of continuity you'd probably get about 60 ohms,that's about what the air regulator heating element is. If you don't get 60 ohms then you might have a wire that has shorted directly to ground. It might also have destroyed your relay, or blown the fusible link. I would take a few more measurements, check your fusible links, and look for a wire with broken insulation.

Just went and pushed the rod back. I have lots of room, like you do. It's not at the end of the stroke though, and I have put many miles on it. Apparently, the factory stroke is 35 mm. 1.38".

Seems like that should work fine. A few mm there will probably be less than one mm at the TBO due to the ratio of the fork. It's not clear what problem that you're having. I watched your video and see that the piston is far down its stroke. But I don't know what the total stroke length is. Are you saying that when you press the pedal the fork doesn't move? If you were at the the end of the stroke the piston should pop out of the bore. My picture was taken with the pedal up. It was just me, a steel rule, and a camera. I'm going to go out and see if I can push the rod and piston back as far as you do in your video.

That will stop the pump from running once the engine starts. The engine will start then die, over and over, because there is no air keeping the AFM vane open. But the AFM switch is bypassed during Start, as shown in the wiring diagram. You need that hose to keep the engine running. But, since the hose is off it will be easy to stick a screwdriver in to keep the vane open. This should keep the pump running and allow the engine to stay running if you get it started. But it will only idle and maybe rise a few RPM before it leans out and starts backfiring or dies if you open the throttle. Unless you manipulate the AFM vane by hand at the same time to pretend it's measuring air flow.

Since yours is a 1976 model you can also prop open the AFM vane with the key on. Use something inside the AFM or take the black cover off of the side and move the damper weight. That will send power to the pump also.