NewZed

You have a 260Z 2+2 with stock springs? That's a good question. The FSM shows that they all have the same spring constant but the left side front spring is shorter than the other three. I don't know why that would be, since the driver is on the left in America. Maybe they are Japan specs. I would look through the FSM and see what you can figure out. Certainly possible to get the short spring in the wrong spot.

It's worth some bucks. Not a lot, but worth keeping. Looks like a 75 or 76, with the non-webbed intake manifold that people like (even though they probably cause more heat soak problems). Somebody would probably drive out there and give you $100 for it. I saw a Tony D post over on zcar.com a short while ago. He hoards, but it's not clear where he actually resides these days. @Tony D

It's only a problem if you use them on the back side. It puts a side force on the rod tip as the suspension moves and fatigues it until it breaks. You can use them on the front and it will reduce toe out when you brake hard, and make the steering firmer. The rubber on the back really only gets used hard when you brake in reverse. Most people use rubber on the back and polyurethane in the front if they want to tighten up the steering, inexpensively

I think that he would need a new companion flange also. The companion flange is where his 3x2 bolt pattern is for the CV axles. He needs a stock companion flange. So, he'll have to remove the wheel side axles and replace the companion flange, with all that that entails. A lot of work for a sway bar.

No real idea on the parts, just the writing and logic. Maybe confirm that the old setup won't work before getting carried away? Unless you really really just want to use the ST bar and T3 parts.

If it happens consistently, after driving, it might be that the shocks are damaged. Are they "old stock"? Also, as I mentioned, some shock instructions ask you to run them through their full travel before installing, to get the air and the oil in the proper places, inside the shock. I can't find anything on the internet but I just installed some KYB's on a truck and that's what they said to do, on the paper instructions that came with them. Maybe your Gabriels have some air pockets. Drive over some speed bumps, maybe, get the oil flowing inside them. My KYB's are firm from the start, even after sitting in the garage for months, so what you're describing does sound wrong. Especially if it's on just on side.

And, this "test" is meaningless. I have KYB's on my car and the car doesn't move if I push on a fender or even stand on the bumper. But it rides just fine. The cars are designed to have firm suspension. You might have had some air in the wrong place in the shocks that needs to be worked out and that's why it moved a few times before firming up. Working the shocks before installing is actually in the instructions of most aftermarket shocks, because they tend to sit sideways during shipping. You should just drive it and see how you like it.

The drawing in the Brake chapter allows you to see the line of force for the mechanical parts, all the way to the MC. You need to get all of the play out of these parts before you start worrying about the hydraulics. You're wasting brake fluid otherwise. You're jumping around from booster to caliper to bleeder to NP valve. Just follow the path from your foot to the MC piston.

What do you mean by "add oil"? With the aftermarket shocks the oil serves no purpose besides hindering rust. The aftermarket shock shaft and shock internals don't even "know" that there is any oil in the strut tube, if that's the oil that you're talking about. Seems like you might be assuming the wrong cause of your problem.

Start at the pedal and figure out how each piece works. You're talking about the booster but nobody uses the booster when they bleed the brakes, it doesn't matter. Nobody has the engine running. You haven't confirmed that your pedal play is correct, as described in the FSM. At this point, by your description, it sounds like the brakes work fine but the pedal throw is too long. That sounds like a simple clevis adjustment at the pedal. Study how the pedal presses on the rod that presses "through" the booster to the MC. Make sure that all of the mechanical play is set correctly. " (the pedal get firm at the bottom and does not go to the floor). The problem is still that I get a lot of travel before much happen. "

Hmm. Seems like nobody got hurt and a poorly run business might be defunct. Anybody who works with FRP's and paints knows about flammability of the materials involved. Mixed feelings. Thanks for the link.

Do you have the leaky bleeders (eeewww...) on the car now? How are you using your pressure bleeder, since the speed bleeders have a check valve inside? Might be a good idea to get primitive. Reinstall the stock bleed screws, get a foot long piece of hose and a jar, and do it the old-fashioned way.

I bleed mine using the stick between the pedal and seat. Crack the bleeder, push the pedal and jam it down with the stick, close the bleed screw, let the pedal up. Works surprisingly well. Put a tube in a jar and you can see what came out. I have speed bleeders on the back also. Still drums.

It's a late 260Z right? Here's a 1975 NP valve drawing. What would be odd though is that, if it is gutted and all systems are on the same hydraulic line, if one wheel gets pressure they all should get pressure. You might be working on the wrong problem. Maybe it's mechanical. The beauty of the old school bleeding method is that you actually see the response at each wheel as you bleed it. Fluid squirts out, showing that some pressure is being transferred.

Maybe try old school bleeding methods before the pressure bleeder. As Miles suggests there might be air in the MC. An air bubble might not get pushed out of the MC by a pressure bleeder if the MC is "nose up". Be the air bubble...where would you hide?

If the rear cylinders were leaking there would be fluid. Did you see any? Sounds more like a bad MC. The front and rear systems are stacked, in series. If one seal fails the pedal will drop that distance until the second one catches. Your new MC might fix it. Here's a drawing, they're all the same. The right seal contains the fluid, the other two create pressure. You can see how you can lose one but keep pressure on the other end.

Hey datnut, there's only one vague reference to a fire in this Hybridz thread. Not clear what fire you're talking about. Is there a link to some info?

Here's the Rule I was remembering. It only matters though f the guy is still in business, or cares about being on Hybridz.

Thanks. I missed it, it's in an odd spot the threads down.

Some of the new/reman ones come with the clevis. You might try your local auto parts store. I think that I just threw one in the recycle bin a couple months ago. I might have one in a parts box. What part of PNW? Close to Portland? https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1976,280z,2.8l+l6,1209226,transmission-manual,clutch+master+cylinder,1996 The Tilton does not come with a clevis?

The leg of the T should be white with a black stripe by the diagram. The other should be yellow. The WB wire is the one that should control your charge light. Not sure what's happening when you jump it like that, it shouldn't really do anything. It might be that you're running full current through a short in the alternator. The charge light is actually a resistor that controls current flow through that circuit. Kind of sounds like you have two problems - a bad connection to the BAT terminal, and a bad alternator. Parts store alternators have been known to be bad out of the box. I'd get it tested.

I think that shows a high resistance in the line from the BAT terminal to the battery. That cable runs to the starter lug, then the positive cable runs up to the battery. Could just be a loose connection at the starter terminal or bad positive connection at the battery. It's a good test though, you have a problem somewhere along the way. Forgot about the black fusible link also. It could be bad or have a bad connection. It's on the way to the battery from the BAT terminal.

You can report them to the Better Business Bureau if they are a licensed business. Hybridz used to have some things about Vendors and how they would deal with the bad ones. But the Rules and Guidelines aren't available anymore.

I think that Motorsport Auto used to sell their own brand of lowering springs that were blue. Nissan/Datsun springs are black with a colored paint splotch on them. The springs aren't really difficult to change. The 240Z's have enough room to swing the strut out and take the top off, without disconnecting the control arm. Once you get started though you usually find a bunch of other stuff that needs doing.

Hey @RETRO-SPEC