NewZed

Go to Autozone or similar and look at their pre-fitted, straight, coated steel fuel line repair tubing. With the right fittings it might give you what you want. You mentioned "caps" but barbs are era-correct. Same vein - what are you trying to change? Why not use the stock shape?

It's a stock factory piece installed on all 280Z's from the factory. They just made it ugly. It's shown in the Rear Axle chapter, twice, but the illustrations are poor. "Damper plate".

I don't know what means. But, good luck with it. I have a GM HEI system, module and coil, on my L6, using the 280Z VR signal. My tach doesn't work without a condenser on the negative terminal wire.

There's a tach output terminal on the typical HEI distributor from what I see on the old interweb. It's probably just a branch from the coil negative post. Easy to check.

With the key On you should see battery voltage at the tach end of the wire if it's connected to the coil negative terminal as it should be. The 280Z tach just counts the voltage pulses on the negative post of the coil as the coil charges and discharges.

Do you know what the signal is? Did you measure voltage at the tach end of the blue wire? Have you looked at the wiring diagram? Really, the basics are pretty easy with a meter. Get everything connected correctly, then you can focus on why the needle doesn't move. With a meter you don't have to worry about what the terminals look like. Who recalibrated your tach, and is it the stock 1975 280Z tach? Are you using the stock 280Z harness connection at the tach? Aftermarket tachs can have different wiring schemes.

You really want just a one piece L6 dust plate for a manual transmission. The E and the T don't really matter. "ET" might throw some people off. And Nissan calls it an end plate or rear plate, for any internet searching.

Is this going to be streetable or just something to rip around the corn fields in? 1979 280ZX's have several possible differentials, from a 3.36 R180 to a 3.7 R200. An R180 might not last long.

No hug? You need to add some detail. There are some considerations and some simple tests you can do. It's not even clear what you mean by nothing. Could mean no blue wire, could mean blue wire doesn't work. Could be the resistor fell out.

Thanks. With the technical detail you've added a person might be able to get one of these to work. $8.50! For those on a budget. Probably need some added protection from the elements though, I'd guess. Not an expert, just like to solve puzzles. Messing around. Hopefully, somebody will come back and confirm a swap, although the HEI module swap is already well-proven and cheap. https://www.diyautotune.com/product/bosch-bip373-coil-driver-mod-kit/ https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/bosch-bip373-ignition/ https://www.diyautotune.com/downloads/products/bip373/bip373_datasheet.pdf

Brown, green and red would be the VR sensor wires that run to the ignition module in the cabin. The blue wire from the coil negative terminal (through the ballast) is the tach trigger.

When I look at the diagram I don't see that. I see L (coil negative), ground, and Y/W (trigger Pin 5) as the three power transistor connections. B/W also supplies the EFI relay. Oh well. Good luck future experimenters. Page EFEC-98 1983 FSM.

I don't know that the swap will work as I showed, but the ignitor is after the coil negative, with no positive feed, according to the 1983 wiring diagram. So, not sure if you're mis-remembering the above. I just compared diagrams, the 1983 diag. is Post #14 above. The HEI is a "smart" module, which does current-limiting, aka dwell control. Maybe the 12V feed is involved there. Or the zero-crossing trigger circuitry, for use a VR sensor. It has much more functionality than is used when it's wired up as a power "switch". Overkill and just lucky, really, that it works.

Your basic problem is that you're ready to argue intake manifold and engine theory with CPC but you are far from being an expert. You're bringing a load of internet "knowledge" and turbulence in to his shop and, obviously from this thread, will be ready to blast his work on the internet if the internet theory doesn't pan out. Considering all, he seems like a smart businessman. He's thinking long-term, not quick easy money. Your displeasure would have more weight if you had tried other shops and CPC was the only one that refused. Shop your proposal around and see who bites.

The halfshafts should be Spicer 51505X, I think. Can't find a propeller shaft number. You should call them. Ask for James, he seems to know what's going on. You can get the halfshaft Spicer u-joints at most parts stores, if you're in a hurry. They're fairly common.

Could be you got 240Z propeller (aka drive) shaft u-joints instead of driveshaft (halfshaft) u-joints. I think that they're different sizes. You should give the part numbers of what you're working with. Might offer a clue.

No, I mean in terms of what you said you were trying to do. As far as the thread shows you still have your 1975 alternator with external regulator. The run-on problem is not a big deal, the least of your worries. Down at the bottom of the atlanticz page the diode solution is described. It's actually described all over the internet, on various Z car forums. The atlanticz page is dead now anyway.

A diode isn't going to change output.

It will be the same nightmare for you regardless of transmission. It's just a plain old turbo engine swap with all of those agonies. Just remember to remove the spacer from the end of the crankshaft and install a pilot bearing. Read the EFEC chapter and check the wiring diagrams if you want to be 100% positive. They mark auto versus manual functions on the diagrams.

Depending on who the builder is and how extensive the rebuild was you could have a very good deal. But if the engine builder is the seller's neighbor, and the shop is his backyard shed, and rebuild means only new gaskets, maybe not so much.

Nice find, nice work, and odd that it's a direct fit. How did you figure that out? Maybe we should start a list of CAS mount dimensions.

Here's the 1983 scheme, for comparison.

You haven't really said how it runs now, if it's low on power everywhere or just on the high end. Who knows, you could have a clogged air filter, a rich EFI system, or a tiny 1 1/2" exhaust pipe. There are a few lists out there of the things that give the biggest bang for buck. You might do a bit more reading and measuring to see if there's any easy-pickin's. Try the FAQ's.

Here's a scheme that should work to use the PRW-2 in place of the ignitor. Copied from the 1995 PF FSM, page EF&EC-8, and Rockauto.com. The PRW-2 is about $60-100 on Rockauto, but only $25 plus at PicknPull. About the cost of an HEI module. No guarantees, I just followed the lines of the wiring diagram. L = coil negative W/B = ECU trigger B = ground

Even the stock 280Z L28 engine is known to run out of breath between 5000 and 5500 RPM. Probably never feel like a Honda without work.. You can do a bunch of small things but each one will probably only have a small effect. Really, you should have done the research before you did the gasket refresh, you might would have made different choices. Good luck, most of the guys on here will say go big on the cam, and the head work. I was just reading one of jmortensen's old posts on big cams. Search around.