johnc

I have no idea what this means?

My 15 x 8s with 225/50-15s.

I ran a 15 x 8 with a 225/50-15 and need coil overs and a rolled fender lip to make it fit. The car was lowered 2.5", the wheels had a 4.5" backspace.

Well... that brings up a related issue with "street performance" shocks. Tokico Illuminas are designed for a street car that runs stock or slightly stiffer (50 to 100%) springs. The Illumina is designed to increase compression and rebound damping in a linear rate as you move up from 1 to 5 on the adjusters. The increase in rebound damping is nice. The increase in compression damping is there to compensate for soft springs. Unfortunately, you also get the drawback from higher compression damping (skatey handling) as you get into the 4 and 5 adjustment range. Its a tradeoff and IMHO the drawbacks outweigh the benefits when you get into the upper range of adjustment on the Illuminas. Ideally compression and rebound damping are complete separate adjustments (Koni 8611). The next best is adjustable rebound only (Koni 8610) and the third best is a combined adjuster where the rebound rate goes up as an exponent of the compression rate as the shock is adjusted (Tokico HTS). To answer your question, start at 1 and don't go beyond 3 for the MSA springs.

I don't mind that its basically a spec car series. That's fine and the racing is close. But I can't stand the announcers, any of them. Just STFU and stop talking about something you know very little about and haven't done in 20 years. And don't get me started on Digger... I stopped watching any NASCAR race when Digger showed up a few years ago. I saw Darrell waltrip at Cal Speedway earlier this year and yelled, "Hey Digger!" He wasn't amused.

Jeremy Clarkson said it best: "Racing cars which have been converted for road use never really work. It's like making a hardcore adult film and then editing it so that it can be shown in British hotels. You'd just end up with a sort of half hour close up of some bloke's sweaty face."

Before trying this, you guys should soak the foam in gasoline for a bit to see if it holds up. It is starts melting or disintegrating in any way, don't use it because that stuff will end up in the carbs and your intake track. There's a reason some of the foam air filters cost a much as they do.

The Strut thread is in the FAQ forum. I don't know what's up with the motion ratio thread.

Your shock guy is correct. For best grip you generally run as low a compression damping as possible while keeping the car from falling over on that corner. Compression damping controls sprung weight of the car while allowing the un-sprung weight to work over bumps Suspension compliance is important for grip. Too much compression damping makes the car feel skatey (skittish) and tends to break loose suddenly. The car doesn't lean over on the tires and bite.

Search please. There are a few threads here that discuss this.

Ditto...

If he was building a track only car then the above list would be something to think about. If its a dual purpose street and open track car then the VLSD is fine and will work just as well as it did in the 300ZXT. They even work well on the track if the sessions are 30 minutes or less, which is very typical for HPDEs and open track days. They work real well for drag cars. FYI... if it was my personal street car I would run a VLSD over a CLSD if I had that option in an R180.

And looking at your pics some more I'm thinking you have the Viscous LSD. EDIT: Hoov & Jon beat me to it.

FYI... my post above related to the Nissan Competition CLSDs.

Here are the parts generally needed for Nissan clutch pack LSD. If what you have is a CLSD, it appears you're missing two pressure rings, the friction discs, the friction plates, and the spring discs.

Looks good. Are you done with the engine compartment/underbody paint?

Here are a couple pics from my album.

The spacer is relatively soft metal compared to the inner bearing races. I assume it compresses some tiny amount based on torque which seats the bearing outer races harder into the hub. Too much torque causes a slight amount of distortion in the bearings between the inner and outer races. There is a measurable difference in pre-load between the lower and upper toque spec in the FSM.

Make a Condom out of it.

Still have a set.

Try Sunrise Z in Glendale.

Your best bet is to take the car to a frame shop and have the chassis checked.

I'm addressing the rational aspects of the poster's situation. The emotional aspects are up to him and not for me to comment on.

You need hood pin mounts farther forward on the hood. Make two L brackets and bolt them to the inside headlight bucket mounting points. Hood pins at the core support are too far rearward and allow the front of the hood to flutter. Any fiberglass hood also needs internal reinforcement (an inner frame like the stock one or a high strength core like Nomex) to survive on a S30 at speeds over 120mph. Venting the engine compartment to wheel wells helps but the hood does need reinforcement.