johnc

Your pros and cons are wrong. Very wrong. Inverted shocks are nothing new (at least 50 year old tech) and provide no adavantage to a production based car who's unsprung weight is close to 100 lbs per corner. In the formula car world (where inverted shocks were developed in the late 1960s) the reduction of unsprung weight by 5 lbs is significant. Now "inverted shocks" is a marketing term used to convince Internet Engineers to buy another shock with shit valuing and junk quality control.

Think of the LCA and the TC Rod as two sides of a right triangle with the 90 angle between the LCA and the TC Rod mount. If you move the TC Rod mount in or out you affect caster and the camber curve.

I suggest you start over. Put cylinder #1 exactly at TDC and go from there.

One of the following is the cause: 1. Installed incorrectly. 2. Broken distributor shaft 3. Shaft gear spun on the shaft 4. Shaft gear stripped 5. Drive gear on crank stripped 6. Broken crank 7. Tang on shaft snapped off 8. Rotor broken or stripped

You're lucky they are not charging you $5,000. There is no market for this part so they can charge what they want. Tooling itself is at least 50% that price. Be grateful you found someone that would do it.

We don't really care it we have classifieds or not. That's not why the site exists. There are far better resources to buy and sell Datsun parts then us. We put the donation requirement in place to keep out scammers. It's been pretty effective. So, go scrap your part, there are plenty more out there.

Good luck with your build. There are a number of contradictions in your plan but there always are any of these projects. Compromise is the name of the game. Focus on the ultimate goal when making the small decisions.

Yes, that's the place. I think I have the drawings/specs in a box in storage. I know it cost me about $1,200.

I had a custom Visteon radiator build. Double pass cross flow with a Niagra. Heat exchanger for oil cooling.

For those interested, the will be a US built TC24B 3.4L in the OS Giken booth at SEMA this year. Lots of power and lots of rpm on 91 octane fuel.

I see a Ford 8.8 conversion in your future.

Oil gets thrown to the passenger side of the pan. What you did won't hurt anything. Just add the 3 holes on the passenger side.

V8 swaps into 240Zs began almost as soon as the car was available in 1970. Scarabs were available starting in 1974 IIRC.

Ok. I was concerned that the flywheel wasn't toques down and was the cause on some bad harmonics.

The flywheel bolts are interesting, especially the damage to the first coupe threads. Did they bottom out in the crank?

There is a prop valve above the diff on cars sold in the US starting in 1972. On a street car I would put an adjustable prop valve next to the master cylinder in the engine compartment. That's where it was on my race car but I also ran a balance bar and that adjuster was on the dash.

Everything from the head out is open IIRC. ITBs or a custom plenum intake.

I've replaced those before and they are a bit unique. I 've found the on McMaster-Carrs web site. You will need to tack weld it in place.

A lot depends on how hot you run the engine, any special engine build specs, etc. On my race engine I had 90 psi at 7,000 rpm with the oil at 280F. On my street cars engine oil temp never got above 220 and 60 psi at 6,000 rpm was fine.

+ 1 for Ritter.

I thought the black lines from the seat belts were gaps in the sheet metal. Sorry.

The wheel well is a mess.

The valves are probably too big. If they are also too long then sell them on eBay.

Your car is a '73 as I just now noticed. You're about 120 lbs. heavier in the basic chassis them my early 1970. Mostly for DOT required safety reinforcements. If you can get the car down to 2200 you're about a good as you can get. Factory radiator is a two row so use that weight. You can also go with a fuel cell and with a clever installation (bolt-in aluminum framing, removing the filler hose, etc.) you can save a few pounds and run much less fuel.

There are a lot of ounces that can be removed from the car. You should be able to run your fuel tank at 1/8 (2.5 gallons) and be fine for 3 runs. The early 30 amp alternators save 5 lbs. No radio or speakers or related wiring. Two row radiator, one horn, no choke cables, etc.