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mario_82_ZXT

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Everything posted by mario_82_ZXT

  1. I've seen people cut the stock seat mounts off and make their own. I believe they are crucial part of the unibody's strength, so you probably have to strengthen it elsewhere to make up for it. Mario
  2. Your pics are set to private! Anyways, I hope they fix your car! Thats cool that your cars were put in the movie but it's kinda dishearting to hear about all the bad ish. Mario
  3. ^ har har har Anyone know if he's up for making more of these adapters? This would go nicely in a Honda N600 I have... Mario
  4. Can you check the clearance with the bump on the driver's side tranny tunnel? I don't know if all 280z's had it, but I know for sure the later ones did. Because of that I had to raise my Recaro up to clear it. Mario
  5. I love how this shot came out! Also, corpcrim, I like the shot and the car, but it would be 100 million times better if it wasn't surrounded by similarly colored Zs in my opinion... Mario
  6. There's an RSX Type S with a supercharged KA in town. It's good for consistent 13s. I think he broke into 12s on slicks. Mario
  7. Same can be said about the ignition switch. Thats why I'd do the keypad with another momentary kill switch. The keypad "arms" the fuel pump, and the momentary allows the starter or fuel pump to actually turn on, or even the ECU. Mario
  8. I know people on here ship engines or have engines shipped to them all the time. I was wondering what companies do people use or have used in the past and their experiences. I'm looking to ship an entire L series engine and trans (drained of course). I was going to tie it and chain it to a wood pallet then plastic wrap it. I have access to a dock or a business with a forklift to load it, but the other end might not. So far my quotes have been around $500. A lot of engine distributors seem to be able to accomplish the same thing for about $200. Any tips? Anyone know anyone in the business they'd like to recommend? Thanks, Mario
  9. I don't remember if they have a vacuum controlled petcock for the heater core. If so, it might be switching to heat under boost. Like stated above, try a check valve in the A/C control vacuum line(s). Mario
  10. Looks German. I'm guessing VW, BMW, or Audi. I swear I've seen them somewhere.... Mario
  11. 215 is what I saw with a bad radiator and normal coolant. With an MSA 4 row and water wetter, I see about 195 with a 180 deg thermostat. Friends with aluminum radiators see much closer to their thermostat value. On the heat soak, what I normally do is after hard driving, making cracking the hood but at the very least, leaving the electric fan on. Where is the IAT located? Mario Mario
  12. By the way, a numbered keypad "kill switch" kit is about $30 when I last priced them out. It's basically a programmable keypad that triggers a relay. I guess I'm not that imaginative, as this is exactly what I was going to do in my car, except instead of an ACC switch, I was going to have a battery kill switch with a removable switch. Mario Mario
  13. Sorry to bring this up from the dead, but I'm in a position to have a custom wing designed just for us Z guys. From what I've gathered so far, that is probably a good height, due the the vortex generators moving the clean air further downward. And if I recall correctly, wasn't the wing most balanced at providing downforce and less drag when it was completely flat right? What about the actual shape of the wing? For simplicity's sake, I'm planning on using a rectangular sheet of aluminum, but I can design almost any bend on it, as in I can make a flat blade like this / or have it curve at the end ). Another thing that has me worried is the hatch's strength. Do they deform when the downforce is supplied? I'm thinking of adding some flat stock inside the hatch where the wing bolts up to distribute the force. Oh yea, the angle of attack will be adjustable with rod ends and such. Thanks, Mario
  14. Mazda guy's love the prosport gauges. An old roommate of mine has some and they look pretty nice. Mario
  15. Nope. I believe a few people have used the SAFC on z31's. So if you do the z31 ECU swap, then you can go with the SAFC to control that. Mario
  16. Oops, I thought the link he posted was $300 a seat. Mario
  17. It's just a chassis harness. AKA lights, horn, wipers, etc. All the engine and engine management stuff must be run separately (and usually through a keyed circuit in the chassis harness). Mario
  18. Has anyone used the sand rail/hot rod ez2wire harness? It's 8 circuit for $75. I can't get ahold of anyone and my emails were never responded on to what exactly is included. It seems way too cheap, like if it's only the fuse box with no runs of cable or something... Mario
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