mario_82_ZXT

The point is it has miles and still looks beautiful!

:rockon::rockon:

Price per seat I'd get these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-CARBON-FIBER-BUCKET-RACING-SEATS-JAPAN-JDM-RED_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33701QQihZ001QQitemZ110244754862QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW They seem like they are the OEM supplier for F1Spec (just by looks, I don't really know). Mario

MMmmmm beautiful cars!!! That Miura looks brand new and it's got 30k miles on it!!! Mario

Limited budget??? The 6 speeds from the supras run like $2.5k+ last I checked... Mario

In reality you want the IC as close as possible to the radiator. When air exits the IC it because very turbulent shortly after, making it very difficult to pass through your rad. You might have cooling issues now because of it. Looks nice though, Mario

Did you do the other side? You can probably port match it with your head or the gasket itself. Looks good! Mario

Raise the idle with an IAC, or by cracking the throttle open. Lean it out, then pull timing to drop the revs. Mario

When I was looking at S/C everyone told me to stay away from v-belts. Some people on here said they had slip issues on 4 ribbed (if I remember correctly) belts if they weren't tight enough. I think this is probably a good way to run a new alternator though. Mario

Yep, it's normal to not need a compressor to install them (which I think is a huge plus). The only bad thing is you have to make sure they seat right after jacking the car up and down. Some people zip tie the to the hats/base to not have to worry about this. Mario

I would contact your brake pad manufactures for bed in procedure. Though these are pretty generic, some brake pads require very specific procedures to burn in correctly. Mario

I want to know! What was it? Mario

I have the same problem on my Z, so I never lock it. What I think it is is at the end of the 90deg bend, there should be a bushing. With the bushing in place is moves just far enough to unlock. Mario

Mess with the over run settings after you have a fairly good initial tune. Leave them turned off for now. Are you using a wideband to monitor the AFRs? If not, it's kinda just a guessing game. If you do, you might be able to slowly rough out a table using MegaLog viewer and wideband AFR target tables. Mario

We might think of it as "dangerously lean" but some people have seen how much fuel you can pull out of the engine after torque peak. Tony D has posted on this a lot I believe. Also, in my experience the stock recirc (found on the #4 intake runner) was good for 10psi until I added the intercooler and piping. I started getting what sounded like surge, I think it couldn't vent all the extra volume of air in the piping. Mario

Yep. Or on a ZX 5 Speed, redrill the pivot holes and use a cut down Datsun truck shifter. Mario

MS works opposite of the stock ECU for FP control. It grounds it instead of sending power to it. What I did on my ZX was I added a small solid state relay activated by the MS box that would then relay power to the correct pin in the harness. Just like stock, the MS box just primes the FP for a few seconds then shuts it off until it detects the engine is running. All the tables and setting should be looked as starting points. Recheck the ignition timing and then slow wittle at the AFRs and drivability. Congrats on getting it started. Mario

Including shipping, this is probably about as cheap as making it yourself: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NXS-MANUAL-BOOST-CONTROLLER-300ZX-GSX-GST-STI-RX7-MBC_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ016QQitemZ260228635515QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Also, for the pop off, just shim it. Drill the center rivet out, disassemble it and and some washers to shim it and make it harder for it to open. Mine's currently set at 12psi as I used to run 10 unintercooled. Mario

There's a reason your old thread (over here) was put in the tool shed. All this has been covered waaayyyy too many times. By the way, the difference in pistons is the ringlands. The NA ones aren't as strong and take a lot less detonation to destroy. Old turbo kits on NA cars used the cold start injector activated by a pressure switch at a certain boost level. It works but the driveability is crap compared to a more modern EFI system. Also, I believe the pin outs for the AFM are different between turbo and NA models. Mario

What I did was I cut the metal ring off carefully. After that, it exposes the barbs. Be careful not to gash them as they might leak otherwise. Also, use a fuel injection clamp, they kind of look like miniature T-bolts clamps. Your local parts stores should carry them. Mario

You can't. It's an analog computer that has nothing stored but the burned values from the factory.

Bad oil control rings won't show up in a compression test (most of the time). If you were pinging practically at all on this setup, more then likely you have busted ring lands or oil control rings. This will show up in a leakdown test. Mario

My guess is your crank pulley/damper has come apart. If I were you I wouldn't drive it at all until you fix that. Mario

It was a FWD VQ drivetrain as I remember it. It was flat black and shown at the MSA show last year. Mario

WOW!!! I didn't think they were EVER gonna remake it. Mario