mario_82_ZXT

I thought the timing guides were an easy fix (like remove old, replace with better part).

Cap the lines at the block. Connecting them together creates a short in the cooling system which could result in long warmup times and hot spots in the head. If the coil says to use an external resistor you need to use one. Coils that don't require it run 12v, the ones with ballast resistors are around 6-8v I believe.

Measure the resistance. If you want to use low-z injectors with a high-z ECU, you need injector resistors, that you can either make or use from a number of Nissans.

Does he have a consult port? I had a similar issue in an SR20DET. It was the MAF maxing out and dumping a bunch of fuel at torque peak.

Including parts cars I've just bought #7 this weekend. This one is close enough to running that I'm going to DD it.

How much boost are you building while sitting?

I think x64v is using magnets on the flywheel to do it.

Are these the ones with the old Bosch style connectors like the originals? If so you can slip a hose over the o-ring side and run them...

Oh I meant the stock Z A pillar plastic. Zs do have one right? (I haven't had mine running in 3 yrs so I don't remember ='( )

Why not scan a stock pillar with your 3D setup and add pods to that?

How is your PCV system plumbed?

Just one thing, your top radiator hose seems like an air bubble waiting to happen. You might want to add a radiator cap so you can fill/bleed it from there since it's the highest part of the cooling system. Other then that good luck!

What makes you think it needs a rebuild? Any competent shop can do a rebuild. Any person with a will to learn can do it with a book for guidance.

1st off you're much too lean to be pushing it hard. It's best to start rich and pull fuel. Second, how big is the fuse? Are you using both injector drivers on the megasquirt? How are they wired? One fuse for each?

Use the same thing but get a 12v pump and a cooler filled with ice and water to pump through the core and walla! A/C! I'm totally going to try this in my Chevy LUV. There was also a website a while back that showed either a 510 or Fairlady roadster where the owner bought 2 ceramic electric heaters, put them in some abs pipe (for ducting) and used a computer fan. He said they defogged the windows quite well. Also, about the ZX. A stock ZX DOES run the a/c compressor in defrost mode to clear the windows stupid fast!

I thought you didn't have a Z anymore! Have you tried contacting him through his dyno vid on youtube?

If you don't run relay's and just use switches, should you put a cap between the poles so that high amp drawing things don't damage the switch's contacts (like the fans)? Also, I wouldn't run anything smaller then 0 gauge for the battery negative. I'd even run 0/0 instead. And I'd run it all the way to the engine block. This is probably more important for an EFI motor, but a starter motor uses a LOT of current. On the gauge response, most of the time the gauges are dampened. In the miata world the stock oil pressure gauge sucks. What a lot of people do is put in a real sender (instead of a switch) then clean off as much of the grease on the gauge itself (which dampens the movement) to get the fast response. I wouldn't be surprised if the same thing could be done to aftermarket gauges.

If you're that worried about corrosion maybe you should get an anode.

That looks like it was done for someone with big space constrictions. I don't like the way the wastegate exhaust is merged into the main downpipe. Part of the reason for making a divorced wastegate and downpipe is to get rid of some of the turbulence caused by the wastegate gases entering the exhaust stream. That design seems counter-intuitive. Edit: Just saw your edit. Go to http://www.turbobygarrett.com and read the turbo tech sections.

What are you looking to spend?

210 or 215 is when the electric fans kick on in a FWD SR20 so I think you're probably OK. Unless you're getting detonation from the heat issues...

It will read lower the higher in elevation you are because the air is less dense. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor At your altitude you'll be able to run slightly more boost before maxing out the sensor.

There's one in Tucson. He's asking $2700 and it looks to be fairly original. 5 speed 82 or 83 ZXT.

Sorry to bump this from the dead but the speed shop I'm working at now makes a R154 and FC Turbo2 5 speed trans adapters for the 1UZ. If anyone's interested in a set PM me. The shop is currently building a 1UZ AE86, and possibly my Z as well (though we have a 2JZ available too).

I think I was running about 12-14deg at idle, and it would jump to at least 20+deg right off idle. Stock is about 20deg at idle, yet people would often move it to 24deg to get a little bit more performance. 27deg sounds like an awful lot. Other then the smell, is there any other downsides to it? For some reason I think it would affect idle water temp. Mario