mario_82_ZXT

Have you recalibrated your WBO2 sensor? On mine and a buddies car, we ran about 15:1 on cruise with no issues. My idle was almost stoic as well by cracking the TB open to lean out the mixture enough, then lowering the idle speed with timing. Mario

I'd look into heat soak again. My friend's car has this problem as well and it's because the IAT sensor (which the stock setup doesn't have) gets severely heat soaked. Mario

What was the problem? I'm having a similar issue in my FWD SR20DET in my sentra. On those forums, they say the stock FPR is crappy with higher flow pumps. You might want to check this out: http://www.frsport.com/SARD-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Adapter-FPR_p_1361.html Or you can gut the stock FPR to run an aftermarket one. Mario

It's been a while since I've done it, but if I remember correctly, there should be a fill plug near the backup light switch. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/mtl/index.html Mario

1978 280z (undoctored shot by my roommate's Holga) 1993 Sentra SE-R (Avenir Turbo swap) Mario Montes Tucson, AZ (click on the small pictures to make big)

^^ I agree, he's letting it go cheap! I liked it better in silver... Mario

Get a heatsink. Or make one. Basically, do it pin by pin. Most soldering heat sinks are just alligator clips with a small "mouth" to fit in between pins. Use the same wattage as assembly, (probably no more then 15watts). Use desoldering braid or a little vacuum bulb. I haven't seen the v3 stim, but be careful of lifting the little round holes on the PCB where you solder too (this can happen if you use too much heat). To use the braid, put a nice piece of it on the solder joint and heat it with the iron. The solder should flow into it. Mario

They post mounting directions on their website. You need to put them at the right distances and angles so that it works like they are supposed to. Search for "harness bar" and you'll see what some people use to mount harnesses. Mario

Look at the megasquirt install sticky. It covers which one is ground, power, and the 6 slit signal, which would then leave the other one as the 360deg one. Mario

Have you checked the basics? A fuse runs the voltmeter. Also, I believe the dash lights are on the same fuse as the parking lights. Check to see if you have parking lights, if not, there's a good chance that one of the bulbs in the parking lights, turnsignals, tails, could be so corroded it's blowing the fuse. Mario

I do believe the JWT setup is plug and play for the original setup. Did you buy it for the 280zx or 300zx? If I had to guess, you need the 300zx version since you have done the wiring mods to run that ECCS. But you should just contact JWT and see what they say, Mario

Heck yea! http://FantasticContraption.com/?designId=862065 Mario

For the 4 balls, I had 2 windmills and slopes that would launch the balls up and into the pit. On the bridge one, I made to little cars, one that would get stuck and become a bridge, and one that drove over it. I'm stuck at Tube. Down Under was cake.

When you use the KA trans, you use the Z bellhousing, if I had to guess, they don't bolt up. Mario

^^ Can't you run the LED outputs to drive them? Also, it's a little late now, but there's a bunch of aftermarket motorcycle coils that have 1 input and 2 spark outputs. Has anyone used something like that? Mario

I don't know if it's just the picture angle or something, but shouldn't the turbo be clocked so that the center section is completely vertical? Also, are you running the IC piping under the engine? What's that old turbo out of? What's the specs on the new one? Mario

We had a ford edis-6 car at the shop once. It was an auto car, and it had a "safety" on it so that it wouldn't rev over 4500 rpms in park or neutral. I'm not sure if it's controlled by the coil pack or the ECU though, but it sounds so much like this problem. Mario

^^ I would kill for the speedo one if it was inverted (9k tach with a small speedo at the bottom).

Clubna-t also has a XS Power deal going on their forums. (Dammit and they just went up close to $400 from when I first checked them out) Their fully braced Chinese made manifold has good reviews from clubna-t. Mario

Nice! Are you using the supra or the soarer 1JZ? Mario

The shop I used to work at used a very similar tool on a 2JZ-GTTE engine. The shop owner got it from the local supra specialist. We stuffed the cylinder with nylon rope to use as a valve stopper. The technician said that it was one of the easiest valve stem seal replacement he had ever done. Dunno if it will work on the Z though... Mario

I'm not sure what is causing it, but they ALL need oil. It helps the heat transfer out of the strut. It also prevents the insert from rusting in place, which is worth it in itself. Mario

Are they CVKs or is the slide actually controlled by the throttle cable? I can't stand the CVKs on my bike. Actually, I've learned I don't like carbs very much, I was this >< close to Megasquirting my old Ninja. I bet it sounds amazing... Mario

Don't you need the JDM center console because of handbrake location? I'm not at all sure on that, it's just something I remember seeing in the posts about this swap. Mario

Weird! My friend's car is doing the exact same thing after we accidentally touched the + post on the alternator with a wrench when we were tightening it down. Hope you find out what it is. Mario