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Showing results for tags '280Z'.
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Hello HybridZ, I am in search of a Datsun 240z/260z/1975 280z in the Orange County, CA area. I prefer a rolling chassis, but a car with a motor is okay. I will be swapping in a Weber powered L28 race motor, so I would rather not spend money on a motor I will not use. I will be upgrading to an R200 differential so i wont need a diff or half shafts either. Rust is okay to a certain extent... Nothing too major. Missing interior is okay, as long as the dashboard with gauges are there. Id prefer not to spend more than $2000 for a roller, but I may be willing to spend more for a roller with zero rust and/or upgraded suspension components. I AM willing to purchase an out of state car, provided there are plenty of photos showing its condition and it isnt too far to drive and pick it up. Ill consider shipping a car here to SoCal. Thank you all for your time -Never2BeFinished I can also be reached by cell phone, (949) 322-72zero3. Texting preferred due to sporadic schedule, but I can always return calls later. -
I have a 75 280z with a sbc swap and I have been searching for info on where you v8 z guys are hiding the vacuum bottle and solenoids for the ac system. I really would like to clean up the look of my engine bay and the big bottle is a looks killer any help would be a big help thanks. Will S. p.s. check out my build thread rolling with the punches.
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Hello friends, from all over the world, my name is Zamar and I am an aspiring Datsun enthusiast. A little background of myself.... I'm twenty one years old, married with my first child, a service member in the U.S. Marines and on a very tight budget due to my other pricey hobbies. Majority of my time is at work and working out, close to all of my time off is spent with my wife and daughter. I do all of my research and learning up on this site and I hope to meet very knowledgable Datsun and/or car enthusiasts. A little background on my 280z, Penny. My goals with Penny is to rebuild her factory L28e and get a reliably smooth and sound motor. - upgrade her whole suspension and lower her 2-3 inches - repaint her Copper brown - replace her factory wheels and tires with a more modern rim and low profile tires. - remove front and rear bumpers, add front grille and air dam - install aftermarket radio I really hope to get a lot of help and I apologize in advance for my new guy questions. I understand to search and search before posting a thread about something that has been covered probably a dozen times before.
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Hey, I havn't hardly posted on here, cause I really couldnt find reason too. Everything I was looking for was already on here asked by 300 other people lol. I seen the last few days yall been having trouble with the website, I'm glad its back up cause seriously this is my #1 source for info on my 280Z. Since I bought it a few years back I've finally got the efi to work and get the car up to where I can enjoy it. The motor is coming out near the end of the season and gonna put some flat tops and megasquirt. I seriously cannot wait to do all this. I just wanted to let everyone here on this forum that posts their fixes, problems, and issues THANK YOU! You've helped me tons and on a limited budget! Not to mention great reading about some of your guys and gals cars in here. Tommorrow the cars gonna get flogged on some north ga mountain roads near my house all thanks to you guys.
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Soooooooooo I have always wondered what a 1970 dodge daytona wing would look like on my 280z. Obviously if I were to do it I would have to "shrink" it down. Anyone else think I should waste my money on trying this? If I do ill attach photos at a later date.
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Hi everyone, I've been trying to get my car working properly again and it keeps giving me trouble. I think the source of this is the fuel line i'm using from the tank outlet to the fuel pump inlet. It's carburetor hose since it's on the non-pressurized side of the system, but it's very soft/malliable and kinks very easily. I think this is what's causing my car to not get enough fuel while driving. I can't find the OEM Nissan hose anywhere, and I can't find 7/16 fuel injection rated hose anywhere either. Does anyone know where I can get either of those? I'd like to get my car running again ASAP. Thanks, - Brandon
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I came into possession of an actual NOS Nissan OEM 280Z hood. It had sat in a storage shed in Pueblo, Colorado since 1986 and is still in the battleship gray primer with the Nissan part code and sticker on the underside. It does not appear to have ever been placed on a car. I'm considering putting it on my orange 240Z. I would paint the vents a satin black to match the front and rear spoiler on the car. My car is undergoing a turbo motor swap. With respect to this 280Z hood, I'm not sure if the vents are actually functional as I've never owned a 280Z. My other option is to try and fix my 240Z hood which just isn't working out. It's a bit rusty, has been worked on, and I think even with 20 hours of metal work will not be 1/2 the hood this OEM one is. I'm concerned about originality, but since I already swapped the motor, transmission, and differential - I kinda think that ship has sailed. Does any one have a picture of a 240Z (orange) with the 280Z hood for comparison? Any opinions: looks, functionality, etc.?
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Hey everyone, I've got a 1976 S30. It's effectively stock as far as the EFI system goes, all I've done is change the plug wire connectors for the injectors and I've replaced the fuel send lines with new hose. Of course I also put a new filter on it after I got it as well. During the summer, it started having an issue where it would randomly lose engine power entirely for brief moments- a number of seconds, really. Then it would pick back up and drive normally. I thought it was just crud working its way through the lines from the gas tank and I wasn't too concerned about it. Shifting up a gear would usually make it stop. Then it started to bog down on the rare occasion. It would run rough, misfire, had no power, and wouldn't rev over 1500 rpm (or if it did, it went kicking and screaming). I would drive it for a minute and then it would start running normally. On my way to my first day at a new job last month, it died in my neighborhood and wouldn't start again. My dad and I were trying to push it back that night but it was tough since it was on a slight slope. He went to get the truck to pull it back and I decided to try starting it again to see what it would do. It caught a couple times and then finally coughed back to life. I changed the fuel pump thinking it was the old one going bad. I used an Airtex pump from O'Reilly (I know, you're probably rolling your eyes now) and installed a Fram G3 between the tank and the pump to keep tank crud from messing up the pump. It worked fine for a couple days and then the issue came back with a vengeance. As it sits now, the car idles fine. Driving it, it starts to stumble around 2500 rpm and the power cuts completely at ~3000 rpm. It's almost undriveable unless I'm really careful with how high I rev. Even then, it can be fussy. The general manager of the auto shop I work for knows the car really well so he helped me diagnose it on Saturday. He checked and adjusted the TPS and AFM. We tried a new computer since we had one laying around and there was no change. He checked for leaks on the intake and found none. He removed the vacuum from the FPR on the fuel rail and fuel pressure rose accordingly which, if I've read correctly, means that the FPR is functioning properly. The last thing we did was check fuel pressure (probably should have done that first but hindsight is always 20/20). It was running at 32 psi @ idle and under load (revving the car) it would dip to ~30 psi. If I'm correct about the FPR working properly, I've narrowed it down to 3 suspects: - The G3 filter I installed between the tank and the pump - The new pump - Fuel damper near the pump I read about people installing the G3 so I thought it was a good idea. The pump is new, but it is a random O'reilly brand. Since I was having issues before and after replacing the pump, that leads me to believe that the issue does not lie in the pump setup I installed. My old OEM pump was probably still working alright for its age. As I type this, the most plausible cause in my eyes would be the fuel damper. I'm not sure what the symptoms of a bad fuel damper are, however. Anyone have any suggestions? I'm going to try running it without the filter when I get the chance, but I've been obscenely busy the last few days. Thanks. Pac_Man
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Hello, I have searched the database and could not find any threads that answer my question. I apologize in advance if this has been covered. Is this l28e rebuild kit as far pistons any different than the Factory L28e I have in my 280z? Keeping in mind it states l28e 280zx rebuild kit. I only ask because I'm rebuilding my motor and this kit is in my price range. Also if anyone has any remarks to Clegg engines or any other reasonably priced rebuild kits on the market. I would greatly appreciate your input, good or bad. http://www.cleggengine.com/nissan-2-8l-l28e-280zx-sohc-12v-81-83-complete-engine-kit.html
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I'm looking for a fuel injected L28, preferably out of a 1978. Needs to be a running motor without any serious issues. I know someone has to have one sitting around that was swapped out for a SBC or RB. I am on a serious budget, so being able to drive and pick it up would be wonderful! I'm in Clallam County. I don't want to low-ball anyone, so just let me know what you are thinking as far as price. 500-800 is around my ideal price range. Thanks!
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Hey all I'm at odds with what to decide on doing and need some suggestions (some advice wouldn't be bad either.) Well here's my dilemma; I have a bmw M50B25 out of a 1992 325is complete with everything except the flywheel and clutch in my garage and I wanna know what you guys think of swapping it into a Z would be like or should i just stick to swapping init the L26 with the round top SU's I got with the car? If i were to swap in the M50b25 i would want to run boost on it because stock they can handle a conservative setup of 8-12psi, but the real dilemma is that I'm kinda unsure of the swap because It's never been done before and I don't really want to open up a pandora's box of problems. People have told me that the engine is relatively simple but that's not always the case. Anyways I'd gladly appreciate any input you guys have as to this swap. Oh and the engine itself is a stand alone system so wiring shouldn't be too much of a hassle.
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I'm doing this swap because no one else has, or so it seems. So if you don't have helpful information don't add to my post. That being said, any ideas on retained equipment to be left in my z?
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So, as many of you can already assume, I'm Greg and I've owned a 1978 280z for a little over a month. Although my time with the car has been short, many plans are in place to replace and restore many parts. Currently, the plan is to do the notorious LS1 engine swap, lowered on Stance Coilovers, STR 514 wheels (17x9 square with a 3.5 inch machined lip), ZG Wide Flares, etc. but first, body work is the first priority on my list. From the day I first bought the car, little changes have been made to the car... -
Hi Guys, I'm still pretty new to the forum but I wanted to start contributing right away! I just bought a 1975 280z that had been sitting for over 10 years and was the victim of seized fuel injectors. There are a couple of options on how to handle the situation, one would be to replace the old injectors with new ones. Thats a solid choice but oem injectors will set you back $350+. Another option would be to buy refurbished injectors. Again, that's a fine option, but since fuel injectors are sealed units that cannot be opened, all you are really buying are old injectors that have been cleaned. Your next choice is to send the injectors off to a fuel injector cleaning service that specializes in cleaning electronic fuel injectors. If you choose that route I'd suggest www.witchhunter.com as they are a well known and good company. A full service cleaning is going to set you back about $180 but has the added benefit of having the injectors flow tested. Lastly, you have the option to clean them yourself. The process I came up with worked great for me and only cost about $20 and as such I will be discussing my method for the remainder of this article. Before we start, a disclaimer: *** The procedure Outlined below was developed by myself to clean my bosch L-jetronic fuel injectors. I am not a professional, nor do I claim to be. By performing any of the actions described in this article you risk damage to your fuel injectors that could render them inoperable. This process may be used on any injector however take special note of the correct voltage used to drive your specific fuel injectors.***** The Injector: How & Why Let's take a brief look at how the injector works and why it may end up seized shut. First things first, take a look at this cutaway view of an injector: (photo credit Gordon from witchhunter.com) The points we are most concerned with from this photo are numbered 4, 5, and 6. Number 4 is the coil. It is a coil of wire that wraps around the inside of the injector body. When current is sent through this coil, it creates and electromagnetic field, basically, it's an electromagnet. Number 5 is the pintle. Think of it as the rubber stopper that plugs the drain in your bathtub. It is a tiny piece of metal that for al intensive purposes "stops up" the fuel injector and keeps fuel from flowing through it. Numer 6 is the pintle seat. Think of this as the drain in your tub. It is the piece of metal with a hole in it that the pintle stops up. When the coil is energized, it becomes magnetized. This magnetic force pulls the pintle up away from the pintle seat allowing fuel to pass through the injector. When a car sits for a long time, the fuel in the injector degrades and separates releasing gums and varnish. As time passes and the fuel evaporates and degrades, whats's left is the gummy mess that clogs up the injector. When dry, it effectively "glues" the pintle the the pintle seat. Cleaning: Now that we know the basics of how an injector works and why they get clogged or seized, lets look at what we need to do to clean them. The basic strategy is the same whether clogged or seized but the approach is going to be a little bit different. The first thing we have to do is devise a way to pulse the injector out of the car. The next thing we will need to do will be to get the injector operable meaning we need to make sure the pintle is moving up off of its seat. This step won't be necessary if the injector is just clogged. Then we will want to do the actual cleaning, and finally we will replace the feed hoses and O-rings before reassembling the unit. Supplies Here is what you are going to need. 2 bottles of 91% isopropyl alcohol 1 small eye dropper 3 tupperware containers - 2 must be able to hold all 6 injectors and the cold start valve fully submersed in alcohol. The third needs to be slightly longer so that you can have good access to the injector while submerged. 2 lead wires with alligator clips electrical tape 6 to 8 D batteries Paper Towel (preferably shop towels) or a cloth Piece of cardboard or other suitable work surface Procedure: ​Now that you have all of your supplies it's time to get to work. Obviously the first thing you will need to do is remove the injectors from the motor. if you do not know how to do this I highly recommend you get yourself a factory service manual. There are also numerous how-to's online. Once you have everything together, find a comfortable place to work, I laid a piece of cardboard over the kitchen table and worked there but anywhere reasonable clean will do. Place all 7 injectors in one of the containers and fully submerse them in alcohol. Let them soak for about an hour, longer being better. Now take your other container and fill it with enough alcohol to submerse all 7 injectors (Don't forget your cold start valve!) and the other longer container with about 2 inches of alcohol. Place these to the side. the long one will be our working bath and the other one will be our clean bath for the injectors to continue to soak after we've worked on them. In order to clean the injectors, we must cycle them open and closed. To do this we will need to come up with a way to run a current through the injector. In our cars, the 12 volt current from the battery is routed through a dropping resistor that drops the voltage from 12v to 3.5v before it is passed through the fuel injector. So, ideally what we want is a 3.5v current that we can turn on and off to pass through the injectors. You could come with a whole bunch of different ways to do this depending on how fancy you wanted to get but my method is simple and easy and ver effective. If you did not know, a standard D battery output is 1.5v (actually AA, AAA, C, and D batteries all output 1.5v). By combining 2 D batteries in series ( + to -), the output voltage is bumped to 3v. This 3v current is very close to the 3.5v used in the vehicle so it will be perfect for replicating the pulse the injectors get in the car. So, what you will want to do is take two of your D batteries and tape them together so that the + side of one battery is touching the - side of the other. Now, grab your wires with the alligator clips and tape on end of one of the wires to the + one of your battery pack you just made. At this point you are ready to grab one of your injectors out of the alcohol bath and start disassembling and cleaning the exterior. Remove the bottom O-ring as well as the aluminum spacer on the main body. once the spacer is off you can remove the thin metal piece that sits right on top of it. Now you can work the thicker rubber O-ring off the main body of the injector and go to town cleaning. I used a toothbrush and some paper towel to get the outside decently clean. This isn't crucial but it will help to keep your cleaning bath free of contaminates. After you are happy with the cleanliness of the injector go ahead and attach the other end of the wire to one of the pins coming out of the injector plug. It doesn't matter which one since the magnetic field will be the same regardless of which direction the current is flowing. Go ahead and wrap the exposed metal of the alligator clip (if there is any) with some electrical tape to minimize the chances of the negative clip contacting it when she attach it. Speaking of the negative clip, go ahead and grab your other wire and attach one one to the other pin coming from the injector plug. What you should have now is as follows, -[ ]+-[ ]+ ----------Injector--------- in case mtg diagram doesn't make sense, you will have your two batteries taped together with one end of a wire taped to the positive side and the other end of that wire attached to one of the pins on the injector. From the other pin on the injector you should have another wire which is not currently attached to anything. Now if your car has been sitting for years, it is not uncommon for the injectors to be seized shut. If this is the case they will not open and will not spray any fuel. After all, that is the reason for this article. It is important that you remember that the injector is an electromagnet pulling the pintle off the seat with magnetic force. If the injector is seized then what that means, is that the magnetic force pulling up on the pintle is not great enough to overcome the force of the gunk holding the pintle down. So how can we free it up? First we need to see if that long soak in alcohol was enough to free it up. So go ahead and touch the free end of the cable coming off the injector to the negative end of your battery pack. It is good practice not to keep the current flowing throughout the injector for too long. If you hold it too long you can actually burn up the coil inside the injector and then you will have to replace it. Since we are only using 3V that isn't likely but better safe than sorry. If you are lucky, you will hear a click come from the injector meaning that the injector did actually open up. However, if you are like me, the injector will still be stuck. So what to do? Well, if you have ever taken physics then you may know what to do, but for those who haven't or are a bit rusty, heres a little physics lesson. Voltage is the potential difference across two points. Current is the rate at which the electric current flows. Resistance is the resistance to the flow of electricity. Voltage, current, and resistance are all directly related by the formula V = IR. V is voltage measured in volts, I is current measured in amps, and R is resistance measured in ohms. How does this apply to an injector? Well, the resistance of your injector is constant and does not change (unless you have a faulty injector that should be replaced) the variable that we can control here is the voltage that we send through the injector. By increasing the voltage, we are also increasing the current that the injector draws. That same formula above can be rewritten as I = V/R which mean that the current is equal to the voltage divided by the resistance. The resistance of an injector varies based on the application but lets assume here that our injectors resistance is 10 ohms. We just attempted to actuate the injector with a 3v pulse so let's calculate how much current that was. 3 volts divided by 10 ohms comes to 0.3 amps of current. Now, we know that 0.3 amps of current is not enough to break our injector free so how do we increase that? well, as we've learned we need to increase the voltage. to do this you need to simply tape one more battery in line with the other two making sure to put the + end of the battery to the - end of the other. this will increase the voltage by 1.5v for a total of 4.5v. This will bump our current to 0.45 amps. now try tapping the negative lead to the negative end of the battery and listen for a click. Tap it 5 or 10 times and if you still don't hear a click add another battery to the line and try again. Keep adding batteries one at the time until you get the injector to unstick. You can add up to 8 batteries in a row without risk of damaging the injector. The faster but less optimal way to do this would be to use a 12v car battery right from the get go to unstick the injector. this would be fine as long as you use short pulses of energy and do not hold leads on the battery for too long. At this point you should have gotten the injector to unstick and are ready to start cleaning it. If not, you will have to seek out another option for fixing your stuck injectors. The actual process of cleaning the injector is easier if you have a buddy to pulse the injector for you while you do the cleaning. So, assuming you do, have them start pulsing the injector while you force alcohol throughout he top with the eye dropper. do this for a few minutes and then do the same thing but this time forcing the alcohol though the nozzle end of the injector. During the process you should see dirty gunky fluid come out of the injector. repeat this until the fluid that comes out is clean and clear. Do note that it will only drip out and won't be any sort of stream of flowing. After you are done cleaning, place the injector in the clean alcohol bath until you are done with the remaining injectors. Repeat the above process for all 6 injectors including the cold start valve. The cold start valve was designed to run off of 7 to 12 volts so it may take a few batteries taped together before it will click open. Congratulations! You have successfully cleaned your injectors! Now we need to get the old hoses off and replace them as well as the O-rings. If your injectors are like mine, then you have hoses held on by small metal cups. I tried cutting the hose with a blade and pulling it off, but I could not for the life of me get the hoses off so I decided I would have to cut the metal cups. For this you'll ned a dremel and a razor blade along with a pair of pliers. This is the bit we will be grinding off. Before trying this, be sure to try and just pull off the hoses after you make a slit down the side with a blade. It may work for you and will save a big hassle! Hold the injector with the pliers and carefully start grinding away the metal cup. when you think you've ground off enough try and peel it away as best you can to expose the hose underneath. Now cut down the side of the hose to the base with the razor blade. Get your pliers and start pulling the hose off the injector. It will be really difficult but just keep twisting and pulling until you get it off. Once the hose is off, the cup will just slide right off. Replace the hoses with new fuel injection hose and clamps. Please be sure to use fuel injection hose and not normal fuel line. Now we can replace the O- rings and slide the thin metal piece and aluminum spacer back on. It helps to lube up the o-rings with a dab of motor oil! Now you are ready to reassemble everything and fire it up! If the motor has been sitting it would probably be a good idea to replace all the rubber fuel hose and clamps as well as the fuel filter and spark plugs! Thank you for checking out my writeup! I hope it helps you out!! -Blake
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Hi everyone, Just had my car quit on me. I looked underneath when it died and there was a wet spot under the fuel pump and I could smell the gas. It was giving me intermittent problems before but it seems it's finally bit the bullet. I've been doing a lot of searching to find a replacement pump but I'm having a hard time finding something saying "___ is a swap-in replacement." O'reilly and Autozone sell a couple models but one of the O'reilly pumps listed is a tank-mounted pump so naturally I'm a bit wary of trusting their system. I've also heard of people using the Walboro 255, but after looking at their website and checking around a bit, it seems that it might be too high of a pressure? I don't have a pressure gauge so I'm also wary of buying this, not to mention I've heard it takes some fab work to get it in. Any help is appreciated as always. - Pac Man
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ok so ive had my z for a couple months now and i though id post some foward progress. i got it pretty much stock. not a whole lot done besides asthetics. i will slowly be going through it cleaning her up and making it run for autoX races eventually. well without further ado here it is.
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Hey Guys! I am new here and I have a 1978 280Z. It has a blown head gasket which I am in the middle of replacing, that and the timing chain. After doing that I am thinking about swapping in a KA24DE. I can get an engine, harness, and ECU for about $300 at a local pick and pull. What I am wondering is weather I can put the KA24DE in the Datsun with the stock 4 speed manual transmission. I have read on this forum that the KA can fit in the 5 speed but is tilted the wrong way. I am guessing that the KA will also bolt right up to the 4 speed? I am pretty good at fab work and have my schools shop to work in. I can also get a 5 speed from a 280zx or from a 240sx on craigslist, although the 240sx trans would require a custom shortened driveshaft and I am trying to do this on the cheap (or maybe could I just move the engine and trans forward 2 inches?). My preferred method is sticking with the stock trans and bolting up the KA, could I do this and make a custom oil pan to accomadate for the odd angle? Or would I have to tilt the stock trans? Thanks, Cooper. Ps. The reason that I am doing this is because I would like the MPG and reliability of the KA. -
So I figured I'd start a build thread for my Z. I am most definitely a newbie, so any and all tips, comments, and criticisms are very welcome. Here's a list of the cars I've owned. 89 240sx 91 240sx 90 240sx 90 300zx TT 97 A4 2.8 quattro 68 mustang fastback 74 MG midget So as far as my car history, I've had quite a few of running projects (minus the fastback). That being said... None have scared me quite as much as the 280z. The reason is I'd like to do the LS1/T56 combo in it. I'm in Texas and there is a shop in Fort Worth ( Larry's Speed and Custom) that will put the engine and tranny in and set up the AC and power steering for $5K. I will have to source and purchase the engine myself. It starts to hit the wallet pretty hard, all at once. I was also thinking of a 302, then finding someone to do the welding/fab work for me. I don't have the equipment and I would be afraid of ruining this car. Anyway... Here are some photos. Gotta love the two sided Paint. It's really rust free and fun to drive as it sits. Now I just need to figure out which engine I'm gonna do. soon I will have some webisodes on youtube of the build/ownership of the Z. If nothing else, I should have fun. Cheers.
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It came off a 78 280z 5-speed. I believe its a Hitachi direct drive type but there aren't any markings and the label has faded. The solenoid is trashed and new ones cost more than a complete reman starter. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Starter-Remfd-Premium/_/R-REL444639_0226137554 I'm also inclined to purchase a gear reduction type, but I'd like to know if this is a good idea. All I've read is that the torque is higher and battery load less on the gear redux. Any other pros and cons for gear reduction vs direct drive? I appreciate you time!
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Looking for 280z seat rails/brackets so I can bolt in my new seats!!! Let me know if you have any!! Thanks!!!
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I'm looking for some door panels for 280z Coupe 77-78. Currently have perfect condition door panels but don't fit the 77-78. Willing to trade or buy some. Let me know. Thanks
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Put the trans and motor together before I clean them up a little
BubbaDog127 posted a gallery image in Members Albums
From the album: Cobra 5.0 280z
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From the album: Cobra 5.0 280z
Brian Laine aka motormatch cradle kit for a small block ford -
From the album: Cobra 5.0 280z
Brian Laine aka motormatch cradle kit for a small block ford -
Side by side comparison of the Z tank (bottom) and the mustang tank (top)
BubbaDog127 posted a gallery image in Members Albums
From the album: Cobra 5.0 280z
1977 Z tank 1995 mustang cobra tank
