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Showing results for tags '280Z'.
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Hey, This build topic will be constantly changing as I learn and take input from you guys and other sources. So please feel free to let me know if you have found a better way or part for where I am heading. The goal of this build will be to take my Z from it's stock daily driver status and take it to a completely rebuilt machine and return as my daily and occasional autoxer. I am planning on starting the rebuild in the beginning of the new year as I am currently in the middle of moving across country. So for now, it's planning... Engine/Intake/Exhaust LS based - I would like to start with a 6.0l, either iron or aluminum. I am waiting to see what I can find in the local scrap yards. EFI - I want the fuel economy and space savings that come with it. Heads/Cam/Rotating Assembly - The LS6 components look like they will be enough for me for now. Still need to choose headers, exhaust will be based on what is best for the engine/performance Drive Train/Suspension/Brakes/Wheels T-56 6 Speed No clutch setup chosen yet Considering full T3 suspension/coilovers/disk brakes/rear end conversion/5 lug conversion - Looking at the Q45 for the diff and other parts - whatever ends up being the strongest is what I will go for. T3 Front and Rear Sway bars Polyurethane in applicable areas I have several rims that I like, but I will go with the largest tires in the rear I can find...I have a lot of reading to do on that topic... Electrics/Gauges/Interior Glowshift Tinted 7 color gauges - Speedo, Tach, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp Full rewire kit - American Autowire Highway 22 circuit kit NRG Steering Wheel NRG or Sparco Seats Power window and locks - Spal kits Dash repaired using the how to on the forums Body/Exterior Body completely taken down to metal, cleaned and repaired. Lizard Skin 2 coat system and Dynamat then new carpet 20 gal fuel cell All new weather stripping HID headlight conversion Fender flares Skinny front bumper and air dam 240 style rear bumper I will paint it myself...not sure what color just yet This is what I have so far...So like I said, please feel free to throw in your two cents...Also, I have two 1977 280Zs...My daily is a 4 speed and I bought the other as a parts car (it's a 5 speed). So, when this is all said and done, I will have a lot of the stock parts I won't be needing like the engines and drivetrain/suspension components...So when the time comes I will be looking to get those out to those that need or want them...Thanks and I am looking forward to getting started and hearing back from you all... Volition
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I am looking for a good set of coilovers that will drop the car about 1 inch. They do not need to be top of the line, I will only be doing street driving but looking for a decent upgrade from my stock ones of 1978. Also a front sway bar. Thanks,
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Recently started my 280z Project with Boba my beautiful 76' 280z 2+2. I bought her from a guy that was planning on fully restoring her but never got around to finishing it. When i got her the guy had already pulled the engine and disassembled almost all the parts including the exhaust. He also had pulled out Boba's seats because they were in pretty bad condition but the back seats are fine. Due to his not getting around to her, it sat in his drive way for a couple of years. It has a few minor rust spots but nothing major from what i can tell. Most of the rust spots being in the engine bay, around the mount. It also a small crack on the tail light, passenger side mirror is missing, the clip for the rear seats to pull them done seems to be broken and won't pull done. The carpet is also a complete disaster so i plan to pull it and see if there is any rust underneath then replace it with aftermarket seats that are on the way. I plan on during making some modifications to the engine and exhaust to put some more power into it. Some plans that I have for it are too: Install some new MSA Header New Aluminzed Performance Exhaust Cold air induction system New Four Piston brake calipers Performance kit that comes with new retainers and springs, rockers arms, lash pads Maybe New pistons depending on what kind of shape they are in Those are the major changes I plan on then after that probably fix up the suspension with new struts and springs and a Roll Bar for the back. All the parts i listed i found on the Zstore online. Its going to be a long on going project but it will be worth it in the end. I'll continue to post pictures as it goes along, i should finish pulling the carpet tomorrow and the seats should be coming in the next few days.
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hey guys! I was just wondering, is it possible to use a non-EGR intake manifold with the stock 280zx turbo ECU? also,if i upgrade the injectors to 320cc,can the stock computer run with this? im turning my n/a into a turbo and dont have the cash to go aftermarket engine managment yet,so i would like to use the following.. (looking for 250-300 hp). stock turbo ECU Turbo dizzy N42 intake manifold (Non-EGR) Stock turbo and turbo manifold FMIC Pipping for turbo/IC Manual boost controler. 320cc injectors. custom fuel rail. imsight? Randall
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Hey Zers! Well its come time to turn my stroker 280zx into a stroker turbo..right now i have 10:1 CR. I plan to install forged J.E Dished pistons and a 2.5mm HG. this should bring my comp down to a low enough leval to turbo charge.my biggest concern is going with an aftermarket EFI..im running tripple 44 mikunis right now.im thinking of using the N42 non-EGR intake manifold and a 70mm TB.greedy boost controller.Megasquirt 2,MSD 6-2.t3/t4 turbo,720cc injectors.blow off valve/waste gate etc..im wondering what sensors are needed to use megasquirt for my fuel control only.am i able to use MS for fuel only and use MSD 6 for my spark control? if this works,can someone please give me a short write up as to how to go about setting this up.im pretty new to EFI as i grew up with carbs (and im 21). Please,any insight on this would be great. P.S- I plan to run 17-20lb boost MAX! thanks~ Randall
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Okay so i guess i start off with its a 1978 280z non turbo 5speed. New injectors, injector connections,mAf,temp sensor,thermo switch,radiator,fan clutch works,water pump works,what i beleive is an aftermarket 280z fuel pump hard wired to the battery on a switch, oil change and checked for vacuum leaks(none). So the car heats up past operating temp fast even in the cold mornings within 5 minutes and stays there doesnt change with speed or sitting still. After like 15-20 minutes the car will buck but only from a dead stop and under 1500-2k in first if i rev it past that and then release the clutch it doesnt happen.the bucking isnt bad. It idles perfectly at 750 and revs dont bounce or jump. Starts up fine and revs smooth in natural all the way up to 6k the speedo jumps under 20 but stops after that. Any ideas on whats.causing the constaint temps in 50° or 97° temps it just stays at the "m" on temp in the gauge once it warms up (within 5-8 minutes) and the bucking at low revs from a stop? I can move the dizzy rotor but only rotational and not alot but i feel like it ahouldt do that? And ideas would be nice i love my Z and want to drive her stress free
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Hi, I recently picked up some Chastain Shadow louvers for my 280z but they don't have the lower mounting plates that the captive screws go onto and tighten down on. These louvers are the kind that go underneath the weatherstripping and lift up. Thanks in advance, Brandon
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I've had my 280z for about 7 months now and it was running strong until one day I was changing the spark plugs and I stripped the port so long story short I just brairly fixed the thread on the spark plug port and got the spark plug in and hooked up the battery and the gauge only read 12 volts so I hooked up the jumper cables to see if it will move but nothing and now the car just doesn't want to start any help btw 1976 280z stock l28
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From the album: The 5.3 Project
$984.85 shipped to my door. Wheels of Time -
From the album: 75' 280z
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Hey guys, I just picked up a 1978 280z about a week ago. My goal is to make it a reliable daily driver/head turner. I was surprised that I was already turning heads despite its current condition. The car is in much better shape mechanically than it is cosmetically. The engine has been rebuilt by a previous, previous owner. The PO gave me a folder of a bunch of receipts that the guy before him had. Despite all the work that's been done, she still runs a bit rough. But ran well enough for the 2 hours drive home! A bit of information about myself: I'm pretty much your typical broke college student. I despise driving my lame corolla around town, and although I do have a motorcycle, my girlfriend hates riding it, plus it rains all the time here. So... I bought a Z! I thought since it's summer and I'm bringing in a bit of money from my summer job, it'd be a perfect time to start on this project. I'm starting this thread to document the process and to make sure I stay motivated to finish. I don't know too much about this car or mechanics in general but I'm usually pretty good at figuring things out. I only have basic tools and as stated before, my budget is very limited. I hope you guys can help me along the way! Here are some pics... These are pics provided by the PO He bought an air dam that he hasn't installed yet, I think I want a different one later on Aftermarket rear fender, I think I'm going to take that off and go for the shaved look Came with chrome wheels, these will do for now The PPO had a minor front end collision, the PO replaced the hood, also gave me a spare hatch My IG photo when I finally got her home. I don't have access to a garage atm so she's parked in the backyard. Hope it doesn't rain too much! But then again... I do live in Seattle... you can already see some rust forming on the hood
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I found a 1976 280Z with a completed 350 conversion for sale. The work looks excellent and the overall condition is great! He's only asking $3,000. However nothing electrical works. It runs and drives but the gauges, lights and wiper do not work. I was wondering if anyone had an idea what the problem could be? I'd like to buy it but not if I have to spend all my free time tracing down gremlins. Thanks!
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- Electrical
- 1976
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Hello, I'm totally confused on how I should get my RPM working through my MS3 main board in my 77' 280z. I'm using the Hall sensor off the negative side of the coil. However, I did the rookie mistake of installing both the section without points and the negative coil trigger at the same time. Even if I try the VR circuit only, I still don't get a tach signal. So I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I burned something out or destroyed the board, because no matter what I try it never produces a signal for the megasquirt main board. Thanks!
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- Megasquirt 3
- Rpm
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- 280z
- sr20det swap
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Hello all, My name is Allen, I am in need of a transmission for my 78 280z, and I am located in NC.I would like to find a '80 280zx 5 speed, but anything (other than a 4 speed) that will fit in the car and maybe have a bit better gearing would be lovely. Any help would be appreciated! Allen G.
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- transmission
- 280z
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I'm looking for a dash for a 1977 280z coupe. Doesn't need to come with electrical, just need the dash itself. PM me with price shipped to 53220
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So I just finished up swapping an 81 l28et into my 76 280z. Runs and drives but far from a smooth running car due to only having a downpipe haha. Using the n42 intake seemed like a good idea at first but I really didnt study up enough on it. Problem number one: the turbo blocks where the crankcase vent goes into the manifold. My solution to this problem was to just run it back into the J pipe, figured this was pretty much the same thing as before just without the little check valve and now it is behind the throttle. Problem number two: What to do with the other line I had running from the T connector, that was connected to the vent on the valve cover and airflow regulator, back to the j pipe. I ended up capping it off and didnt really see any change in performance. I guess my question here is how important is the airflow through everything? Does the air regulator actually need to be connected before and after the throttle? I think this will be much easier to diagnose after I get an exhaust on the car, but for now its just running poorly.
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So, my question is does the front strut housing off of a 240 bolt directly into a 280z? The only reason why I ask this is because coilovers, and sectioning the struts is easier and cheaper on the 240 struts and instead of cutting and welding the strut housing onto my Z I wanted to see if I could just bolt in the whole front assembly and save myself some headache.
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So I figured I better get this thread started or it will never get done.. so HERE IT GOES! Last October I got deployed and the whole time while I was playing in the sandbox, I was pondering of what I was going to spend my money on. At first I thought I might just do an engine swap in my Subaru Forester and make it a quick little Forester STI but after searching all of craigslist for donor cars and ideas, I laid eyes on what has always been one of my dream cars... a Datsun Roadster. Unfortunately, the owner of said vehicle never responded to my calls or emails but I was determined that my next project was going to be a Datsun and so I set out to find my diamond in the rough... This is what I found!!! A 1977 280z on Craigslist which I managed to pick up for a steal at only $4850! The previous owner bought it and had the intention of dropping a RB25det in it and restoring her, but being that he was military, he got orders over to Germany and decided to sell it instead of finishing what he started (great for me). Included in with the deal was a great deal of parts including: 1st gen RB25det engine RB25 transmission converted oil pan converted oil pickup radiator Mckinney engine and trans mounts NEW Wiring Specialties conversion wiring harness RB25det ECU intercooler and piping 2 ton engine hoist spare intercooler stock wiring harness miscellaneous stock parts full unknown fiberglass body kit 2 sets of bumpers original NISSAN 77' service manual original NISSAN fuel injection manual full original interior First thing I want to do is get the car cleaned up and ready for the new power-plant. luckily, the previous owner had the same idea and he had already cleaned up most of the engine bay. Unfortunately, he also laid down some undercoating in the engine bay which I want to remove and spray with some rust preventative and smooth it out some more. As for the engine, I have already started to remove and label most of the external components so I can clean, inspect, and upgrade. I currently have a Greddy style intake, and lighter exhaust manifold on the way. both of which will be powder coated. OH! and look what I found in the glove box! a mint condition original shift knob, anyone need one?
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Hope this isn't a dumb question, but I've been looking around and can't identify this switch or what it does? Trying to look through wiring diagrams and no leads either, it looks like it was made to mount on the the metal housing for the stereo behind the center console. Messing around with it didn't lead to any obvious results.
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- switches
- blue wires
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