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Showing results for tags 'lt1'.
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Hello everyone. I'm not entirely new to this forum. I had a account here back in the day but due to many years passing, me moving, and my project changing directions I have decided to just go ahead and create a new one. I bought my Datsun the original 2.8 and then I swapped in a L28ET. After discovering the head was shot, it was taken back out. Then between moving for a new job and my Datsun sitting in a storage unit for a few years, the L28ET never got put back together. Anyways, way back in high school I had this really beat up 94 Z28. It had a LT1 and a T56 that were both rebuilt. I loved this car and owned it for many years but it seemed like I had got whatever life was left out of it. It was very rusty, the bumper was patched together, the fender had a piece missing out of it, the hood had been replaced, the doors were shot, it leaked water into the cab, and much more. So anyhow my plan had always been to pull the LT1/T56 for a third gen camaro project. It was always in the back of my mind to put that drivetrain in the Datsun though. As time went by and I realized that I didn't want to do another project car or buy another car for that matter, I decided to put the drivetrain in the Datsun. I also realize that a Datsun is way more unique than a third gen camaro. So anyhow I started the project a little over a year ago. I figured that I should create a thread on here so that others can chime in with advice or their opinions! I also have been running in to some questions so I thought it would be beneficial to have a account here. Anyhow I added some pictures. From the storage unit to the machine shed at our farm. Progress has been slow between working two jobs, being in a relationship, house projects, money, other hobbies, and projects! I am trying to get it finished though since I sold all of my other cars. My main obstacles at the moment are the LT1 belt routing, wiring, and fuel. With the belt routing I would like to figure out a way to run the alternator lower to eliminate some of the other pulley without interfering with my JTR mounts/setback plates. As for wiring, the previous owner for some reason hacked up the original body harness. This really suck because I hate wiring (I'm color blind) and don't know where to start. I've been thinking really hard about getting a universal wiring kit from Painless to replace the hacked body harness. That way all the wires would be labeled too and I can get rid of non-essential stuff. I'm going to run aftermarket electric gauges also. I also plan to get a Painless harness for the LT1. As far as fuel goes, I haven't really researched it that much yet. I know the fuel lines will have to be moved to hook up to the LT1. I'm not sure if I'll have to increase the size or not and what to do with the vent line. I'd like to run braided AN lines if I have to change lines. Anyhow, this is my project so far since it changed directions!! I'd like to have a fast and reliable car that handles well some day! A car that I can take to cruise nights, car shows, track days, and hopefully the Sandhill's Open Road Challenge someday!! If you have any questions, advice, or would just like to follow along please do so! I appreciate any input! I will try to be decent about updating the post but it'll all depend on how much time I can find to work on it! Thanks everyone! 🙂
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I was hoping someone could help me find an adjustable clutch fork pivot ball..I have a 1973 240z where I have installed an LT1 from a 1995 camaro and a Borg Warner World Class T5 from a 1992 camaro. The threads on the stock pivot ball in the picture is 22mm x2.5 as is the threaded bell housing. My local speed shop had nothing to help me. I purchased a 22mm x 2.5 die and had a friend attempt to thread a piece of mild steel round bar to fabricate one....but alas the die failed after just about a 1/2 inch of thread being cut. After searching online before and after this attempt I could only find one adjustable pivot ball that identified the threads for the bell housing.......it was 13/16-16...no help. I did purchase a threaded pivot ball stud that that is 1/2-13 which I will attempt to find and drill a m22-2.5 fully threaded bolt. There seems to be a lot more info on the Mustang T5's out there but I have been unable to piece all the info together. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
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Just bough this BEAUTIFUL 1971 240Z from Texas without even seeing the car in person. I'm amazed How clean this car is. Frame is straight and rust is extremely minimal. All the regular rust areas are clean! I have a rebuilt LT1 and 4l60e with zero miles, planning on selling the 4l60e and getting a T56. Anyway Here is the car, I started stripping it for paint. Will pull drive train tomorrow after I get my cherry picker back from my friend. He borrowed it 2 years ago
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I just picked up this badboy about 2 weeks ago. Runs strong and shifts smooth. Has a Corvette LT1 engine with matching 4-speed auto, engine has intake, larger throttle body, competition cams, headers, power steering. Suspension is okay, seems to have been refreshed at somepoint but I'm thinking of going the coilover route and some aftermarket control arms to push back the rear wheel a little. Also looking to change out the wheels at some point but one of the biggest disappointments is the stock R180 with Open diff. Whats the cheapest way to get an LSD in here, i think its a 3.54 and seems to work pretty well for all around driving running about 2500 RPM at 80 mph but i'm not opposed to a 3.7. I'm considering welding the 180 to keep it intact while i figure out a r200 LSD swap. Any advice is appreciated.
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like the title says im looking to buy a flywheel for a 2 piece rear main pre 86 SBC with a lt1 t56 transmission I've done my research and i know it takes a custom one like the fidanza /centerforce etc just wondering if anyone had one that they didn't need maybe from a project that took a different route if so let me know.. paypal is ready
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