Wilwood emergency/parking brake brackets

[mainboyd]

On 9/27/2021 at 8:48 AM, DuffyMahoney said:

Does that fit a smaller wheel?  Nicely done! 

The wilwood will fit the smaller wheels. I’m not sure about the rear Brembo’s. I guess it all depends on the diameter of your rotors. My rotors are 13 inch front and rear. 
 

The front Brembo calipers barely won’t clear the smaller wheels. Maybe if I had smaller rotors and design the brackets a little shorter they might. 
 

Pictures of my custom front and rear setup are on this thread. 

 

[mainboyd]

16 hours ago, AydinZ71 said:

I think I’m going to install a ball valve in the trans tunnel to lock my rear brakes. It will lock whatever pressure I have in the rear brake line and act as a super simple “parking brake”. I have front/rear MC’s, so it will just be my rear calipers. 
 

adding an additional caliper is ideal, but this is for a race car and I seldom need a parking brake. 

I was actually going to go with an idea similar to yours. I think they call it a hydro brake. Super simple set up and a lot cheaper than buying two parking brake calipers. But I decided to go the mechanical rout because I feel safer that it is independent of the main brake lines. Makes me “feel” a little safer on the road. 
 

Also, in wonderful California, not sure about everywhere else, requires that you have a mechanical (cable) parking brake. Maybe controlled (on/off) electronically but still using a cable. Don’t quote me on this because I only did a single search to find this out. 

[AydinZ71]

@88dangerdan yep! Just like that

 

@mainboyd yeah I think the purpose of the cable hand brake requirement makes a bit of sense. Hydraulic systems can fail. Leaks, a cut line, an accident, etc.  having a back-up means of braking in an emergency that does not rely on the same materials (reservoir, etc) has some merit. Now we all know the cables stretch, and they are a pain in the ass to maintain though. The OEM drum brakes are actually an elegant design when observing in hindsight. 
 

Unless you have some reason for your car to be inspected, I’m not sure anyone would know of an alternate solution you employ. My cable brake did not work for 20 years, and I just left it in first gear when I parked. 
 

 

Edited September 29, 2021 by AydinZ71

[mutantZ]

I know this an old thread but I finally am getting around to installing everything 😁 What torque spec did you guys use for the bolts for your bracket? I was trying to find the torque for the drum backing plate but it didn't look like it was listed in the FSM.

[rossman]

I don't recall, were the stock screws supposed to be reused or were they provided?  If you can figure out the class of bolt then I would use a torque chart from a reputable source like this one: https://www.fastenal.com/content/merch_rules/images/fcom/content-library/Torque-Tension Reference Guide.pdf

 

If screws were not provided then I probably replaced the screws with new high strength class 10.9 or 12.9 and torqued them per the linked chart.

[AydinZ71]

I agree. Some fasteners need a specific torque spec for performance (like the control arms or head bolts), but for most applications the standard torque spec for the diameter and grade of bolt is fine. 

[mutantZ]

Thanks guys, they were a class 8.8. Now the big question is if my crowsfoot will hang on to make torque spec!

[rossman]

1 hour ago, mutantZ said:

Thanks guys, they were a class 8.8. Now the big question is if my crowsfoot will hang on to make torque spec!

Good luck and remember to adjust the applied torque to account for the crowsfoot length, unless you put it at 90 deg.

[mutantZ]

Thanks rossman, I usually never use crow's foot wrenches so that was a big help!