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Post your upgraded brake setup here


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I run the Arizina Z car Wilwood setup front and rear with the larger ZX master cylinder. Hawk blue pads. AP fluid. Not for the street.

 

I've thrown this out in Hybrid Forums before. Big brakes don't always make you stop faster. I upgraded my set-up because I can get replacement parts cheap, and they last much longer longer on the track. Seemed like a long term cost savings.

 

A front toyota caliper/rear drum set up with fresh hi-po quality pads and shoes, hi-temp fluid, and set up correctly will pull your eyeballs out when riding on sticky tires. Friction between tire and road is limiting factor. Bigger brakes are easier to modulate and disapate heat better. Kind of like increasing your gas octane on a low compression motor. Don't do it unless you need it.

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Very interesting, never heard of anyone doing this yet, are these FC 4pots or FD 4pots? Did you make the brakets custom? Let me know

 

Fronts are FC, circa '88. I made brackets from 1" x 2" billets to span the different bolt spacings - Mazda about 6", Datsun 3 1/2" - a lot like Juan's Wilwood brackets.

 

I found them to be more plentiful in the junkyard than Toyota calipers. Mine were $7 and $23 for rebuild kit.

 

 

Here's the inspiration: All credit to Graeme Suckling, he put them on a 510.

 

Graeme_Suckling_03.jpg

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Hi Doug, nice meeting you in VA.

Car is keeping me busy. I had to rebuild the clutch, and I'm installing a new fuel cell. After some baseline testing, I plan to upgrade the brakes along with a few other goodies and reshoot the white paint. Saw the pictures of yours, very nice.

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Very interesting, never heard of anyone doing this yet, are these FC 4pots or FD 4pots? Did you make the brakets custom? Let me know

 

Fronts are FC, circa '88. I made brackets from 1" x 2" billets to span the different bolt spacings - Mazda about 6", Datsun 3 1/2" - a lot like Juan's Wilwood brackets.

 

I found them to be more plentiful in the junkyard than Toyota calipers. Mine were $7 and $23 for rebuild kit.

 

 

Here's the inspiration: All credit to Graeme Suckling, he put them on a 510.

 

Graeme_Suckling_03.jpg

 

Awesome, how do the brakes feel? SS Lines? What MC you running?

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  • 1 month later...

I went the route of the Terry Oxendale "Street" Upgrade....see his write-up and they're all Nissan parts. A realisticly priced up grade and more than enough for a street car. Maybe someday I'll go with the likes of....Brembo, AP, Wilwood, or something in that performance arena. By the way, I love the way my brakes perform with the Metal Master (Axxis) pads.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I just ordered the AZCar Racing brake kit all the way around with proportioning valve and line lock for short term parking brake. It includes 12.2" vented f/r rotors and aluminum 4-piston Wilwoods all around. I am now shopping for a 15/16" Master Cylinder to finish it off. I will let you know how it works. I plan on time trialing the car at Limerock again but this year I DO NOT want to boil the fluid. I know people say that the stock Z brakes can be made to work with 300HP+ motors but I really would feel better having that extra margin of error in the brake system.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just spent the last 2 hours reading through the many posts (hundreds) about brake upgrades I found in the search for "Brake Upgrades"

 

There has got to be a better way to consolidate all this info for the new guy that wants to figure out which setup will be best for them.

 

I am trying to decide on a brake setup for my car and I am more confused now then before.

 

It seems that there are 3 major vendors selling brake upgrade kits or components as well as others making certain parts to combine with OEM stuff.

 

Ross at Modern Motorsports, Juan at JSK and Arizona Z Cars are the 3 majors ones I have read about.

 

Modern Motorsports offer many different upgrades from their Toyota 4X4 front brake upgrade and 240SX rear upgrade to the extreme13" front and rear upgrade and also the 13" Cobra Upgrade. They seem to offer parts or complete packages.

 

JSK seems to make components to work with the Wilwood calipers, etc.

 

Arizona Z cars offers complete Racing Brake packages based on the Wilwood Calipers.

 

(forgive me if I left out anything anyone provides, it was not intentional. I am just on overload of brake info right now)

 

All vary in price greatly.

 

In my case, price is not the biggest concern. It is more important to me do it right the 1st time and to get a brake upgrade that will work for my intended uses of my car and provide years of reliable service. I want enough brakes to use the car as a weekend cruiser but be able to stop me without fading if I do a few track days per year and a few autocrosses too. I don't want to over spend for my brakes but I understand that too much brakes will only hurt me in the wallet.

 

I was trying to get real world opinions on the different setups. It seems that some of you are running the Toyota 4X4 fronts with stock rears, some have the Toyota 4X4 Vented calipers with the 300Zx rotors and spacers, Some are running the vented 4x4 with the 240Sx rear discs., some the Arizona Z car wilwood setup, some the MM extreme setup in front with the 240SX rear, etc.

 

I am sure some of the combos that are being used will work for my intended uses as well as other on the list and future list members as well.

 

It would be helpful if list members with completed brake upgrades in running cars would post their setups and opinions and feedback as to how well they work so we can have all this info in one area that will be easliy accessable for all to find.

 

If you are willing to help out and post your brake setup, please let us know the following:

 

Year of Car

Front brake mods (rotors, calipers, spacers,etc.)

Rear Brake mods (rotors, calipers, spacers,etc.)

Type of pads front

Type of pads or shoes rear

 

A short opinion of how they stop compared to stock.

 

Please only post if you have completed the brake upgrades and you car is on the road and has had at least 1000 miles of use or at least one track day since completed.

 

I know there are many more variables to deal with but I feel that the basic info should be enough for most people to make a more infomed decision.

 

 

 

Please don't hyjack this thread.

 

Thanks in advance for the help.

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This other thread has exactly the same theme: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96117

JSK hasn't answered any of my previous 10 or so emails and I've seen several complaints from others saying the same. I think he's out of biz.

 

 

See what I mean. I seriously spent 2 hours going through post and didn't even find that one. It really doesn't answer my questions though. To amny people go,in different directions in the thread.

 

 

Please post your stuff here.

 

Thanks.

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jmort & quick240, i know juan [jsk], he lives in albany, ny [other end of the state from me] and i can get a number to reach him if you, or others need. pm me if you need and i'll give u my work number. i know he also cnc's the fuel rails as well for 280's and zx's. you know my thougths on the brakes, best advice is to do some research, listen to those who know what they're talking about-like pete paraska, john coffey, mike kelly and so forth. then...take the plunge. i believe phantom is also looking or is currently upgrading his brakes.

 

david

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my brakes-toy 4x4 with modern motorsports spacers and 84 300zx rotors drilled with porterfieild r4 pads.rear-84 300 zx rear rotors with design products billet brackits and willwood 2 piston calipers.porterfield r4s pads.no park brake.have a willwood proportion valve mounted next to shifter.master ylinder is stock 7/8.i run ford brake fluid.car has been on laguna seca,sears point,thunderhill with no problems.i dont baby the car either.i dont run the porterfiled r4 pads on the street though-i change to a regular type of replacement pad for better cold braking and longer life.the r4 front pads last about 3 days (6 hours) of track time.the brake line are all earl's.the rear kit was cool-cut backing plate off with a torch(i was going to pull the stub axles out) and bolt the kit on.

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