JMortensen Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Wilwood brake master (singular)? Pictures? Does it use a booster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1972 240z Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 (edited) I havent done much searching yet because im waiting on a reply from Ross but is there someone that offers the same Typical 4x4 Z Vented Front Brake Package and the Z Rear Disk Brake Package that Ross offers at Modern Motorsports? Thanks, Nevermind i got his response Edited October 7, 2010 by 1972 240z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplyedmind Posted November 6, 2010 Share Posted November 6, 2010 check the link below:) http://silverminemotors.com/product.sc?categoryId=14&productId=6 Just got those spacers for my z silverminemotors rocks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarolinaTZ Posted November 19, 2010 Share Posted November 19, 2010 I'm beginning the process of the brake upgrade. I understand the benefits of vented rotors but I'm not sure I want to go that route. Can anyone who has kept their non-vented rotors while doing the 4 pot upgrade, tell me if and how easily you reached the limits of the non-vented rotors. I spent extra money on forged wheels and don't want to turn around and add back unneccesary weight to the suspension. It's more expensive and more complicated to go with vented rotors so I don't want to use them if I don't need them. Has anyone auto-crossed or done track days with non-vented rotors without issues...at what point, if any, did you realize you should have gone with vented? Thanks in advance for the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Mine Motors Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 The non vented kit will have brake fade at the same limit as your stock brakes, since you are using your stock rotors. The difference in price is only $130 between our non-vented and vented kit (assuming you have a 280z) and only a $90 difference if you have a 240z. Installing both kits is exactly the same. You just put the spacer between the rotor and your hub. In my opinion there is no question; buy the vented kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Mine Motors Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 The non vented kit will have brake fade at the same limit as your stock brakes, since you are using your stock rotors. The difference in price is only $130 between our non-vented and vented kit (assuming you have a 280z) and only a $90 difference if you have a 240z. Installing both kits is exactly the same. You just put the spacer between the rotor and your hub. In my opinion there is no question; buy the vented kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Mine Motors Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 The non vented kit will have brake fade at the same limit as your stock brakes, since you are using your stock rotors. The difference in price is only $130 between our non-vented and vented kit (assuming you have a 280z) and only a $90 difference if you have a 240z. Installing both kits is exactly the same. You just put the spacer between the rotor and your hub. In my opinion there is no question; buy the vented kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OniZ Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Has anyone used the z32 calipers on a s30? I was wondering if you could just use the same spacer as the 4runner vented upgrade in front or if something else needed to be made. I was looking at the rears and the MM bracket looks like it will work with the addition of a spacer also. Any feed back would be appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean111 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Ok, I searched and searched, but didn't find anything..... but I may just be partially retarded. Anybody try a brake swap out of a C5 vette, or similar? The cobra upgrade looks good, but I work at a GM dealer In Canuckistan.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williamb82 Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 ok, i have searched within this thread and havent found the info im looking for. A friend of mine has s110 200sx(80-81 i beleive) struts on the front of his 72 datsun 510. he wants to keep these struts as they have already been shortened and modded for coilovers etc... What i need to know is if the 70-78 z brakes will bolt up to these struts? we know the caliper bolt spacing is the same, but we are not sure if the rotor offset is the same. or if we want to use a brake upgrade that works for the 70-78z(like the azc kit for example), would we use the 200sx hub? or the 70-78z hub? etc... or will it not work at all? if anyone knows the answer to this question i would greatly appreciate it. William Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 (edited) GTR front 4 pot and GTR 12" rotors in the works May be selling kits to adapt these and z32/gts calipers to s30's Here it is compared to a willwood 11" civic kit The gtr brakees are heavier obviously but they shoudl have the stopping power I need for 500hp Edited March 6, 2011 by 240zdan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsxtcy Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 GTR front 4 pot and GTR 12" rotors in the works May be selling kits to adapt these and z32/gts calipers to s30's 240Zdan, any new info on this kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsalni Posted March 23, 2011 Share Posted March 23, 2011 i'd be down for a 300zx front conversion as well! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali Alfadhli Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 i have 240z 1973 car and need to convert to 5 lug and the rear brake also from drums to disc so what is the best option ? Note : need to change the engine to V8 . could anyone advise please . thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 (edited) i still havent installed my gtr brakes but plan to in the near future so i will keep you guys updated. cant wait to feel the stopping power! Edited April 16, 2011 by 240zdan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedge Posted May 26, 2011 Share Posted May 26, 2011 Id love to have GTR or Z32 brakes on the front that would be nice keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistah mofro Posted June 7, 2011 Share Posted June 7, 2011 can you use a 7/8's master cylinder rather than the 15/16? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfloyd Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I just finished installing the AZ-Car front Wilwood brake kit and the Silvermine Motors rear conversion on my 72 240. I also bought the 280Z 15/16 master cylinder from Edan at Silvermine. I have to say, Edan is a pro and when i had some install questions, he was very helpful. Silvermine's kit is absolutely top-notch. It uses the calipers and rear rotors (re-drilled) from the 2011 Ford GT500 Mustang. The 12" rear rotors are drilled and vented. You have to switch the calipers left to right due to the position of the E-brake assembly but the stock e-brake cables fit right up. You do have to adjust the cables to their max extended adjustment, but then they hook up no problem and work awesome. Because the calipers are switched, it puts the bleeder valve on the bottom, so you have to bleed them off the mounts. You HAVE to put a block or the rotor itself in the caliper when bleeding or the pads will close down to far and you won't be able to get it on the rotor. I made this mistake and the pistons extended and i couldn't figure out how to get them to retract. The trick to retracting these late model Ford calipers is the pistons have to be rotated clockwise while you are applying pressure. It is the only way. AZ-Cars front Wilwood kit is also superb and i went with the 12" vented and the 4 piston calipers. Bolts right on. I opted to forgo a brake proportioning valve for the time being and so far this sucker stops like my sportbike. I have not experienced any rear brake lock-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I have to say, Edan is a pro and when i had some install questions, he was very helpful. I bought the Silvermine rear kit as well, and I'd also have to say that Edan was easy to deal with. He responded quickly to e-mail and was very patient with me while I went through various shipping options with him. First class customer service. Silvermine's kit is absolutely top-notch. It uses the calipers and rear rotors (re-drilled) from the 2011 Ford GT500 Mustang. The 12" rear rotors are drilled and vented. You have to switch the calipers left to right due to the position of the E-brake assembly but the stock e-brake cables fit right up. You do have to adjust the cables to their max extended adjustment, but then they hook up no problem and work awesome. Because the calipers are switched, it puts the bleeder valve on the bottom, so you have to bleed them off the mounts. You HAVE to put a block or the rotor itself in the caliper when bleeding or the pads will close down to far and you won't be able to get it on the rotor. I have to admit, I was not quite so impressed with the kit as you. Firstly, I found the e-brake setup left a few things to be desired. Sure the cable connects to the caliper e-brake arm ok, but there was no provision for actually attaching the cable sleeve to the bracket, and the instructions didn't elaborate on this. I was able to rig something up with a couple of washers and a bit of grinding and welding, but that's not exactly bolt-on. The other thing I wasn't thrilled about is that the routing of the e-brake cables has them rubbing against the bottom of the frame rail, and they are forced to bend quite a bit when the suspension is compressed. Once the cables were hooked up, I found that even with all of the slack out of the cable, I could still pull the e-brake handle so that it was pointing straight up. But there may have been some other adjustment I missed, and the brakes still locked up ok. I also found that having to remove the calipers every time you bleed the brakes is a pain. And I discovered that the brake pads run right out past the chamfer on the edge of the rotors, so you get this little lip forming on the brake pad as they wear. One other issue to be aware of, but this is in no way a fault of the kit and I knew this could be an issue going in, is that the e-brake assembly on the caliper will likely not clear CV axle flanges. They wouldn't clear my Z31 CV axle flanges, and they wouldn't clear onetuffz's R230 CV axle flanges. In the end, I made a few small modifications (but took a long time to work out) to the calipers so that the e-brake assembly on the caliper would clear the CV flange, I could mount the calipers on the correct side of the car, and angle the e-brake assembly so that the cable wouldn't be pointing straight up at the frame rail. I also made up my own custom length cables so that I could route them such that they wouldn't rub on anything, and they engage with the e-brake arm like a Ford cable would. Once all that was complete, I was very happy with the results. The brakes performed very well on the track (I wouldn't even consider the smaller 240SX or Maxima calipers if you want rear disks for more than just looks), and the e-brake holds like a 20 ton anchor! Ideally, I think the caliper mounting brackets could be revised so that the calipers could be mounted on the correct side of the car and provide better cable routing, without having to modify the caliper. The CV axle clearance would still be an issue, but there are some simple parts that could be fabricated to deal with that too to make this a truly "bolt-on" kit. Nigel '73 240ZT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfloyd Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 I used the factory cable stops. I just unbolted them and cut the part i needed off. The tension of the cable holds everything in place nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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