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Everything posted by cgsheen

  1. I need to add a note here: JavelinZ used our 9" long threaded adapters for the rear of his 280Z. Albatross has 6" long threaded adapters all around. (We were getting inconsistent results from our machinist, so we discontinued having our own threaded adapters made - we now only use the 6" long adapters from Stance USA) With 9" rear tubes, Jav welded them straight to the rear hub. Using 6" tubes, he would have to come up 3 inches on the stock 280Z rear strut tube to get the same result.
  2. Not really necessary if you're welding to the hub. The strut tube mostly serves as a centering device in that scenario.
  3. +1 The only thing I would add is: the gap at the front of the door and fender may also require repositioning the fender itself. Get the gap at the back of the door set correctly to the rear quarter and get it aligned to the body line and latching correctly. Then, move the fender to correct the gap at the front of the door if necessary.
  4. L28ET crank position sensor

    Sorry I haven't been back to this. Nissan describes the optical module as creating a sine wave that is cleaned up by the electronics into a square wave. And ya, it's definitely a 5 volt to 0 volt wave. I have MS3 (base) running my L28ET now using the diyautotune L28ET optical wheel for crank and cam input. (I did COP using Nissan coilpacks and ignitor. And installed the electronics for logic level spark outputs for full sequential.) The crank and cam inputs are Wired up as per their instructions - I put the pull-up on the MS board. I've been really impressed at how stable the signal is - never had a sync error...
  5. L28ET crank position sensor

    The CAS produces a 0v to 5v square wave as the slits pass. If you were to pull the distributor and turn it by hand (with the CAS powered (ignition on)) you should measure 5v when the slit passes (open hole for the light to pass through) and 0v otherwise (when the disc is blocking the light). And that should happen on both White and Green wires. But Tuner Studio should show your crank and cam signals if it's getting them. Easy to test the CAS by hand though... If you're not getting a 5v spike, the module is bad. Any Nissan or Infiniti with a VG30E should have the optical module you need. But, I've gotten most of mine from M30's or Maxima's. Might not hurt to check if the 4 cylinder cars of the era used that optical module.
  6. MS2 No Spark

    Wait... If you're using an ignitor (transistor ignition, electronic ignition module), are you using a logic level spark output to the ignitor? I'm a bit of a noob with MS, but I see the BIP installed and isn't it a high-current spark output to drive the coil directly? (without the need for a transistor ignition module) Sorry if I'm off base, but your comment about using a Z31 coil and prw-2 stuck out to me...
  7. Luke - everything looks pretty much correct in your pics. The springs should come with no pre-load. All the struts should be the same length. And the strut I have here is the same length (well, it's closer to 10 1/2 " "top of threaded portion to bottom"). 7" spring, 1/2" spacer under the pillow ball, and the pillow ball bolted to the aluminum camber plate which is bolted right up to the bottom of the strut tower - right? What's the measurement between the ground and your frame rails under the floor / seat area? Your first pic doesn't look quite right (front tire fitment in the fender) and our experience has been as stated above - plenty of travel. Most of the installs we've done here we can get the frame pretty close to the ground if we wanted to. Our installs usually end up being close to stock height at the upper range of adjustment with about 3" of downward adjustment. That's figuring the strut being screwed in a minimum of 2" at the upper range. We also cut the stock strut tube down to a nub - 1/4" or less - but that doesn't really impact our installs. We don't go down into that last inch anyway as a general rule. (Adapter tube is 6", minus 2" for minimum thread, 3" adjustment range, 1" at the bottom unused (the adjustment knob is there)) Your picture that shows the front lower control arm is skewed so I can't really see the geometry. Can you take a "flat and level" pic of it from the front? Do you have a roll center adjuster (bump stop spacer) installed? I'd also like to see a frame-to-ground pic. First pic is our shop install on Patrick's 260Z front. Second pic is Patrick's 260Z outside after the install (he's lowered it a bit more than we did since that pic) Third pic is an early - SoCal car with our coilover set - Jorge did an awesome job, right?
  8. Sakura Garage Stance USA Coilover Kit

    Sorry, I haven't checked this in a while! I've PM'd you Albatross. Also, our website is actually broken. It was built with WordPress years ago and we're not smart enough to keep it updated properly. Their last update made the website unresponsive. We were a little slow finding that out. Right now we're looking at the option of either repairing the old site or building a new one. In the meantime, email us at [email protected]
  9. Sakura Garage is pleased to announce the availability of the Stance USA fully adjustable coilover set for the 240Z, 260Z, 280Z. See our website: http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension for order information. - We use Stance USA Super Sport inverted struts. (No hood clearance issues) - Your choice of spring rates. - Swift Springs are also available as an option - Weld-on adapters included - with proper size and length for 240Z or 280Z strut configuration. Our kit allows a wide ride-height adjustment range** - from stock ride height to - well - dirt-nasty-low... We've also developed a bolt-on Camber Plate* for use with the Stance USA coilovers. Our camber plates allow the maximum possible adjustment range in an S30 strut tower! Included templates for drilling and cutting strut towers Drilling template uses stock top hat holes for proper alignment every time Cutting template assures you remove only what's needed to install camber plate Our stainless steel top plate (vanity plate) gives every installation a professional look Please note - this coilover kit requires: - cutting your stock strut tubes - welding the threaded adapters to your stock suspension - the bolt-on camber plates require cutting some material from your strut tower $1595 + shipping with camber plates $1295 + shipping without camber plates (modification must be done to stock top hat) * The camber plate is bolt-on but still requires some cutting of the strut towers to allow for installation of the camber plate and movement of the pillow ball for camber adjustment. ** Our primary focus is to give you a high-quality upgrade with full adjustability to give you maximum suspension performance for your dollar. But if your primary focus is low - you got it...
  10. Rear Bumper Patch?

    Well, I do straighten those occasionally... Gotta remove the fuel tank though. Then, it's a lot of spoon, hammer, and dolly work from both sides.
  11. Part of rear quarter needed for 260z

    +1 Patricks 260Z was hit by a Silverado. There's a bit of room behind the rear quarter. I was able to hammer it out and get it close enough all it took was a skim of glaze to get this corner back.
  12. That's weak... Die grinder?? This isn't something new - early Z's have a large front hub. You can fit anything on the rears but the fronts can be a problem for modern spacers and wheels. Super disappointed that Zcardepot would screw you over like that... Sakura Garage - Tempe, AZ
  13. Oil Filter Pressure Relief Valve Plugged?

    Ding, ding, ding. On the L28ET the bypass is in the sandwich plate for the oil cooler and the block is plugged.
  14. L28ET Out / L24 In

    The L28ET ECCS harness (engine harness) is pretty much self-contained. You won't need any of it for an L24 setup. You won't be using the turbo coil and ignitor - there may be some wiring there to be removed also. There will be some relays that they would have to add and wiring connections into the 240Z harness(es) that you will no longer need. Anything that ties to the ECCS harness can be disconnected and removed. Getting the stock harnesses back to normal will entirely depend on how they did the turbo swap and if they eliminated any of the stock wiring when they did it. If you're not familiar with stock 240Z wiring, that may be difficult to know what - if anything - they changed or removed. Good thing is: 240Z engine wiring is pretty simple. Alternator may be something to look at. If they switched over to the internally regulated alternator that would be stock on the L28ET, you may want to just stick with that rather than going back to a stock 240Z alternator... BTW, I'll take your turbo engine ...
  15. Weird hose

    Refer to the 1972 240Z Factory Service Manual. Emissions Control section - page 2. l24emissions.xps
  16. This picture is of a "late" clutch pedal - used in a 260Z and 280Z. The 240Z clutch pedal was different - made of thinner steel and curved along it's length to add strength. At some point (1973ish...) the brake booster was changed and a larger booster was used. The clutch master was moved farther away from the brake master due to the larger diameter of the new booster. The pedal box and clutch pedal changed also. Looks like you need an actual 240Z clutch pedal.
  17. 260z tach resistor

    Is your engine missing as well? (as badly as the Tach is jumping around?) The blue wire from the electronic ignition module is the "signal to fire" to the coil. If the electronic ignition module was faulty in that way, I'd expect the spark from the coil to be erratic as well. If the Tach is known to be good and the engine runs smoothly, I'd suspect the wiring / connections between the electronic ignition and the tach. It wouldn't be that difficult to run entirely new wiring from the electronic ignition module to both the coil and the Tach - it's a simple circuit.
  18. WTB: 240z windshield

    ?? A glass shop should be able to get you a new windshield. Any glass guy here in Phoenix can get one next day ("from the warehouse"). Same should be true in the Bay Area. Sometimes the sticking point is the gasket - and the young guys at the shop don't know anything except how to glue a windshield in. But, even if you don't want them to install the windshield, they still should be able to get the glass...
  19. Sakura Garage Stance USA Coilover Kit

    Oh my... I haven't bumped this in over a year. Yes Dorothy, Sakura Garage still sells Stance USA coilovers for the S30!
  20. Eventually it will be important that those sensors are working properly. You'll be able to buy a new CHTS and replace if necessary. The intake air temp sensor in the AFM might be a different story... It's sounding more like timing.
  21. If you're getting spark, the ECU is getting RPM information from the CAS. DON'T touch the AFM internals (although in reality, it would be unusual if someone hasn't already...) Do make sure the AFM electrical connections are clean and have continuity back to the ECU. However, I'd say if you have spark and fuel - better check timing... The 310's are going to make that engine run rich. Make sure your spark plugs are clean (new preferably). Start from the beginning and check the mechanical timing. You can't make any assumptions with these old engines - you don't know whose hands have been on them. Having said that, 90% of the problems with these early EFI (ECCS) engines are ELECTRICAL in nature. Make sure your sensors and associated wiring are working properly, have CLEAN and deoxidized connections, and that their wiring has continuity back to the ECU. Be sure you have the Factory Service Manual for 1981 with the Turbo Supplement (not a mistake, the L28ET with crank mounted CAS came in the 1981 280ZX Turbo model) and follow the trouble-shooting steps. There's a section that shows how to do all that without the "Analyzer". You just need a multimeter.
  22. Tachometer and ms2

    Stock, the Tach is receiving it's signal from the electronic ignition module - under the glove box area. The electronic ignition runs a blue wire to the "-" post of the coil (to fire the coil) AND to the Tach through a resistor. The blue wire tees off under the dash. You'll find the resistor (a small rectangular plastic thing) coming out of the dash harness near the glove box. The stock electronic ignition module should be removed if you're not using it - at a minimum, the blue wire should be disconnected from it if you're using the blue to drive the Tach.
  23. What is needed to run 83 L28ET ECU

    Well, you probably know by now my suggestion: Don't waste any more time or money on the stock ECCS... Having said that: you can plug an '83 ECU in to test and it'll work. If you're going to run it long-term, remove the dropping resistors and jumper them out. They're arranged 4 resistors in one pack, 2 in the other. Each pack has a +12V "in" wire and then "outs" to the injectors. All the injectors are powered from the same source - all that matters is that you get all the 6 "out to injector" wires tied back to the voltage source wire(s). Whatever problem you're having, is likely NOT the ECU. It's likely wiring/connectors/harness/someonescrewedwiththeafmwhentheyshouldn'thave/and etc... There is also no "advantage" to using an '82-'83 ECU on that engine that would justify the change - or cost. Put your time and money into a new harness and a better engine management system - at very least a new harness (with a better engine management system). That L28ET deserves it...
  24. Nice camber plates. Dang, mines not going to be the only gold Z in the SW... If you ever have that thing in Phoenix, be sure to stop by.