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cgsheen

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Everything posted by cgsheen

  1. cgsheen

    brake cooling backing plate

    Hmmm... I'm running Porterfields and when they heat up, they perform better. Although my Z likes the uphill better, there's this downhill run I take up above Tortilla Flat in the Superstition Mountains. By the bottom of the hill my friction is working it's best - and I've never noticed fade. I'm running vented rotors in front.
  2. cgsheen

    Dyno'd my stock L28ET today - coolant everywhere!

    I had an MTX-L and it's gauge was never reading the same as the data sent to MS and Tuner Studio. I researched it and found voluminous info on the internet about the issue and how Innovate builds (wires) their controllers. The 14point7 Spartan 2 has an interesting feature to assure that it's output to the ECU is calibrated properly. (the way you wire your install can have an affect on your sensors...) (I also have to say that my L28ET has never run this smoothly since adding MS3X and implementing full sequential COP and full sequential fuel... I thought it was overkill for this old tech engine but I'm loving the way it's running now)
  3. cgsheen

    Dyno'd my stock L28ET today - coolant everywhere!

    Get a 14point7 Spartan 2 wideband to go with your megasquirt.
  4. cgsheen

    Newbie MS2 ingnorance

    Move this post to the "Engine Components/EMS/Megasquirt" Forum and look for "Chickenman" and/or "softopz". Chickenman does remote setups and tuning for a modest fee.
  5. cgsheen

    trying to identify what year this grill is.

    I don't know... I've only seen a couple of 73's and never one with pistons. The 73's we have had in the shop all had bumper mounts like what I installed on my 260. These mounts are substantial, nothing like the earlier 240Z mounts. (I just happened to find a '73 at a pick-n-pull several years ago with fairly good chrome bumpers - whereas my 260 had none at that point...) A person could certainly use that grill on a '73 240Z though.
  6. cgsheen

    trying to identify what year this grill is.

    That's the grill that my early 260Z has... It may be specific to that model because the earlies had pistons in the front requiring the lower 2 slats to be narrower. The early still used the 240Z style turn signals and valence pieces. (I have a 1973 front bumper and bumper mounts on the front and the narrow slats aren't really needed for that configuration...)
  7. cgsheen

    re-mapping and live tuning L28ET 1982 ECCS

    I'm very interested in that timing map as well. Looking forward to what you do with this.
  8. cgsheen

    re-mapping and live tuning L28ET 1982 ECCS

    Wow... I'm surprised someone didn't do this years ago. (maybe some did, just weren't interested in sharing) Pretty cool, I think. Thanks for sharing!
  9. cgsheen

    Where this tube belongs?

    That's almost correct... Your center vent section is backwards (and upside down I think) - that small rectangular vent showing should be facing the front of the dash. It's easier to put that in place after the dash is installed.
  10. cgsheen

    Where this tube belongs?

    Here's an example of the other vent I was referring to: https://www.ebay.com/itm/70-78-DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-UNDER-DASH-FRESH-AIR-VENT-WITH-PUSH-PULL-OPEN-CLOSE/221205489995?hash=item3380dfe94b:g:kFAAAOxyQj9RTxSD:sc:USPSFirstClass!85281!US!-1 It mounts under the steering column (and apparently there is one under the glove compartment as well...). There are very good diagrams in the A/C FSM section that "jhm" linked above. They show the ductwork and all of the vents available for models with factory A/C installed near the end of the section. I've seen those caps on the small tubing outlet before and I'm wondering if that's how the non-A/C models were equipped.
  11. cgsheen

    Where this tube belongs?

    That's out of a 260Z/280Z dash. It's a "Tee" fitting that delivers vent and/or A/C air to a vent mounted under the steering column. Mine is still up there under the dash but I doubt I can get a picture of it in place... The duct work should be pictured or described in the Factory Service Manual for the 260Z and the US 280Z (at least the '75 and '76 280Z models here in the States). I can't remember if that is a "drivers side only" thing or if there are similar vents on driver and passenger sides - it's been along time since I've seen complete stock ductwork and vent pieces - I haven't ever fully reassembled mine even though I think I still have all the pieces...
  12. No, the Stance USA threaded adapter is not pre-cut for an S30 front hub. If you are welding to the hub, you'd need to notch the adapter as required.
  13. cgsheen

    Blower Motor Upgrade (Kia Sportage)

    The stock plug on the '74-'76 fits the Kia blower without modification. (I'm assuming the '77-'78 are the same but I don't know for certain) . It has the same "T" configuration 2-pin plug and polarity is correct. Also, there is no way the Kia blower we're talking about will fit right in the stock '74-'76 blower housing. The squirrel cage is slightly larger than the stock opening. The opening needs to be trimmed to get the squirrel cage in.
  14. cgsheen

    Turn Signals - Key Off?

    Flashers do, turn signals do not.
  15. That's what I do. Kinda tough to do alone - get some help. Lube helps too.
  16. You have the wrong collar for your clutch package. If it were correct, the fork position would be pushing the slave cylinder push rod all the way back in (like you're showing you can do with your fingers in the video) - or nearly so. You need a longer collar for your throw out bearing. NewZed hit the nail on the head - the collar needs to be correct for the clutch package (pressure plate height (or thickness))
  17. That spindle pin tool is probably NOT going to help in this situation. I'm with Jester, use a "sawzall" (recriprocating saw - $20 at Harbor Freight if you don't have one) and cut the spindle pin in two places between the control arm and the hub. Then you can figure out a way to get what's left of the spindle out of the hub section. Much easier to press, beat, or air hammer out without the control arm in the way. You're going to burn out the bushings in the control arm so there's no reason to push them out of there... The spindle pin is fairly soft steel so it's not difficult to cut through with a good bi-metal blade.
  18. cgsheen

    240z reproduction dash

    We've known the guys from Vintage Spirit Garage for years. They are solid dudes, been around for a long time, have turned out some awesome projects, and are deeply involved in the Nissan/Datsun community in California. We've had nothing but good experiences. I was actually a bit annoyed by much of the thread on ClassicZcars... BJSZED - Have you installed your gauges yet? How do they fit?
  19. cgsheen

    Wanted, late 260z manual transmission pedal box

    The pedals and peddle box are the same for all 1974, 1975, and 1976 Z cars. IDK what changed with the '77-'78 280Z's, but '74-'76 are interchangable.
  20. cgsheen

    78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    Be sure to get this document from the DIYAutotune site: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/nissan-trigger-disc/
  21. cgsheen

    L28et swap not starting/staying on

    Oh... You have a REAL '81 CAS? Doesn't matter - input to the ECU is the same as with the '82-'83 optical CAS. You can use an Auto ECU with a manual transmission and vice-versa. The difference between the ECU's has little to do with the EFI and more to do with the transmission lock-out (safety feature on the 280ZX). And yes, I've used an '82-'83 ECU on an '81 harness for testing purposes and it works. If you leave the '82-'83 ECU on the '81 harness, you need to jumper out the dropping resistors. If you're getting power to each injector, the dropping resistors are good. There is one resistor for each injector.
  22. cgsheen

    Building MS2 V3 Board

    Yes. Refer to page 76 of the MS2/V3.0 Hardware Manual. "Connect a 330R 1/4W Resistor between IGBTin and the top of R26." Be sure to follow all the steps in the section 5.3.1.1 on page 76. For the "pull up" resistor (1K) needed when using the Nissan CAS, use the proto area on the version 3.0 board. It's very easy to fit IC's and discrete components in the holes. Fit your resistor in there and then use wires from S12 to one side of the resistor (that's your 12 volt source) and from the other side to TachSelect like the "Using DIYAutoTune.com's Nissan Optical Trigger Discs" .PDF says. Be sure to follow the other instructions in that document - there are other hardware mods to be made on an MS2/V3.0 board. Note that there are GROUND and +5V "holes" (connections) in the proto area - stay away from those for this connection. I find it easy to insert the resistor and bend the leads over towards an adjoining hole. Cut the lead so it just barely goes to the adjoining hole. insert the stripped wire end in the adjoining hole (insulated wire is on the same side as the resistor, bare wire goes through the hole to meet up with the resistor lead on the opposite side of the board...). Lap the bare wire over the resistor lead and solder them together.
  23. cgsheen

    L28et swap not starting/staying on

    The ECU light is normal. It lights at IGN ON and goes off as soon as the ECU gets a CAS signal. That's normally during cranking or engine start. The buzzing, I've never seen before... Is that buzz really coming from the injectors? Check the injector wiring again. (stock)They should have power through a fusable link and the ground is controlled by the ECU. If there are no problems on the +12v side AND the wiring from the ECU is good with no continuity problems (shorts) than you likely have a problem with the ECU. The 1981 ECU needs dropping resistors in the harness. You've already been through the harness and connectors and cleaned the hell out of everything electrical connector related, right?
  24. Good to know they have pads for the Toyota 4-piston. Phil Robles swears by Carbotech on his race Civic.
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