cgsheen

By bet would be "3"...

They are disconnected (wiring connectors pulled OFF) but leaking?? Normally they would be stuck closed. An injector has a "pin" that is normally forced closed by a spring and fuel pressure (when there is fuel pressure). It has an electromagnet that opens it very quickly and briefly but should be always closed tightly otherwise. They also normally have a filter to keep debris large enough to cause problems OUT of the pintle area. I would have to think long and hard before I left those injectors in my car... (You can work them as stated above - even a 9V battery will make them open. Make them "click" several times and see if they will then seal 100%. You'll need a spare Bosch Injector connector to do that easily - bare wires would be dicey - maybe a couple of small insulated spades crimped onto wire leads)

I would disconnect that fuse panel from the console (trans tunnel) and lift it away from the sheet metal. Check to see if there's anything underneath that would be contacting the body. Nothing about that fuse panel should contact a ground source. No wires coming off it should be tied to ground. I'm wondering if the dash harness connectors that would go to the stock fuse panel are still intact. If so, an MSA replacement fuse panel could be used to simplify matters somewhat.

Back to the beginning. If you look at the wiring diagram, the reverse light circuit is tied to the Accessory bus in the fuse panel. The circuit also feeds the wiper motor. Out of the 20 amp fuse (stock) there's a Blue/Red (LR) that runs through the dash harness -> engine bay harness -> wiper motor. There is a Red (R) spliced into the LR at some point that also (stock) runs through the dash harness to the engine bay harness. Stock, the wiring to the reverse switch on the transmission comes out of the loom about the same spot the wiring to the wiper comes out and runs under the trans tunnel on the right side to the switch on the transmission. A Red/Black (RB) comes out the other side of the switch and back along the same path that the Red went out. Once it's back inside the cabin, the RB connects to the body harness and goes back as power (+12v) to the reverse lights. The lights get their ground from back under the hatch (tied to the sheet metal somewhere IIRC) In your case the red should be connected to that 20 amp fuse output that also powers the wiper motor. The black is NOT a ground (if it's coming from the other side of the reverse switch) - it should connect to the Red/Black that's going back to the reverse lights. (I would not do it that way - as it's confusing to anyone else working on the car. Black in a Datsun should always be a ground. If you can't run it RB, use R - then people will at least know it's probably power) (A switch is merely a break in a wire - it is NOT "one side hot, one side ground". So, in this case the Red/Black is just a continuation of the Red wire. The reverse switch is there so the light only comes on when the transmission is in reverse. The reverse switch breaks the wire apart when not in reverse, and "puts the wire back together" when it is in reverse.) This is a very simple part of the process. I just learned most of the above looking at the wiring diagram and remembering how the wires hook up to my transmission. (OK, I have a little stronger background in Z wiring, I admit...) But, If this is too much, you'll need to get someone else OR - like they stated above - spend a good deal of time in learning. IMO an EZWire kit will not make this process simpler but at least it will be new wire - which is always a plus... You'll still need to understand how all these components are wired - and why. The dash harness (there are actually two separate harnesses strapped together as one assembly) is mildly complex - gauges, lighting, multi-function switches, ignition, fuse panel, flashers, stop lamp, hazard switch (OK, now I'm just being an a-Hole...). How do you eat an Elephant? One bite at a time. This can be done - one step at a time.

Yes. And you don't necessarily need to run wasted spark. Three IC's will give you 6 channels of logical spark (or go MS3X). Fairly easy to wire up in the proto area. Here's another weird thing: you can use a Nissan 6-channel ignitor and Ford 4.6 coils. I paid about $30 for 8 Ford curved boot coils - The Nissan Ignitor runs them well.

The Stop circuit has power on both sides (with the fuse removed) when the ignition is ON? I can't see how that should be correct. It's path is to one side of the hazard flasher and to the hazard switch. With the hazard switch OFF, it should just pass power to the brake (stop) switch (where power should stop until the switch is made). The only "feedback" source should be the hazard switch or the hazard flasher (which also goes back to the hazard switch).

When you installed the new fuse box, did you have to twist the connector on the left side 180 degrees to get it connected? (Did you make sure the green wires lined up with green on the dash harness, blue with blue...) You can also verify the circuits with your multimeter. The Stop and Horn have the same feed through the Ammeter circuit (White) : The Stop comes out on a Green/Yellow, The Horn on a Green/Red. There are five circuits fed directly from that battery (two WR tied to that bus) : - 20 amp Common - Blue/White - 10 amp R Headlight - Red - 10 amp L Headlight - Red/Yellow - 10 amp Dome / Instrument - Red/Blue - 20 amp Park / Tail - Green/Blue Two circuits on the Accessory bus (Blue/Red) : - 20 amp A/C - Blue - 20 amp Wiper - Blue/Red One circuit on the Ignition bus (Black/White) - Flashers - Green

Enjoy the build! Plenty of info - especially here - best of luck!

Ya, my mistake - my old brain had ton = 1200 lbs stuck in it, rather than the CORRECT ton = 2000 lbs. Good thing I'm not selling things by the pound... Nothing to see here... Never-the-less, decent weight for a complete Z car.

Just under 2 tons! Cool...

We've found that most stock L28's dyno about 110 or less depending on condition. 150 RWHP in a Z makes a fun driver. Get it out on the road and enjoy it!

+1 I've been running my daily driver with this configuration for 7+ years.

'74, '75, '76 are all the same door panel. Changed slightly in '77 with the change of the door.

Poly bushings on the compression rod? You'll need to replace the poly bushing on the back side with a rubber bushing - otherwise you'll probably break the compression rod. Ask me how I know... There are a fair number of thread posts regarding the issue.

On the 260's there's also an alternate horn mount location on the front of the lower radiator core support. Upside down it puts them a little low...

Jeff, it's just a switch... The easy way to test the fuel pump is just to "jumper" the oil pressure switch temporarily. Pull the wires off the switch and connect them together. That'll give the fuel pump relay the impression that the engine has oil pressure (the switch is "made"). I winched a little when you first mentioned "2 green wires" to the fuel pump - I knew only one of those was power to the electric fuel pump... Ground (Earth) wiring in Datsun's is always Black. (and Black/White is battery voltage).

Those Tabco dog leg panels are much thicker metal than stock. It's not that bad of a repair and you definitely need to get behind there and treat the rust...

Yup, that's where the horns are on my 260...

2-wire plug? If so, it's a NO CONNECTION. It'll show that in the wiring diagram - so download the Factory Service Manual.

You may be able to get the spindle new from Nissan still. That won't help you with the distributor body, but it may be another resource.

I'm totally impressed that you got the windshield in by yourself!

Jeff, check out http://www.vintageconnections.com for replacement wiring connectors for your harnesses.

Phil Robles swears by Carbotech. He had the same comment about dust, but he loves the friction material. His little Civic is amazing and he's quite a driver as well. I'm currently on Porterfield friction and like it - once it's hot...

A few years ago I started using a bleeding pattern that is different than most. I bleed the master cylinder (in the car) first with tubes from the bleed ports back into the reservoirs. Then I actually start with the closest brake hardware (not the furthest as conventional wisdom states) and follow to next closest until I'm finished. (I do not use a vacuum bleeder but whatever works for you...) Doing it manually (and by myself) it usually only requires 3-4 pumps of the pedal at each wheel to fully bleed the system. I've had much better and more consistent results doing it that way.