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TimZ last won the day on December 29 2017

TimZ had the most liked content!

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About TimZ

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  • Birthday 10/26/61

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    Dearborn, MI

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  1. Too many redirects:
  2. Of course this method is easier - it doesn't tell you anything useful. If you don't know where the crank is with any accuracy then the position of the cam timing mark is meaningless. FFS you have the engine apart - go buy a $40 magnetic base dial indicator and a timing wheel and learn do degree the cam and do it right. It isn't that hard,to learn how to do and when you're done you will understand the answers to all the questions you are asking.
  3. Actually Tamo3 has the voltage meter configured the way Datsun did it - hot at all times. It certainly wouldn't hurt anything to rewire it as seattlejester suggests, but it doesn't draw very much current. Tamo3 - great job! Glad you stuck with it and got to the bottom of the issue.
  4. Yes - the warning light should go off once you start the engine, and you should observe something like 13.8V (or whatever your regulator is set to) at the battery.
  5. Yep - sorry I missed where you pointed out the possible burned out lamp. Also, in tamo3's video above it clearly shows a voltage gauge with a warning lamp, _not_ an ammeter. So, I would suggest wiring the lamp as it shows in NewZed's wiring diagram - ditch the diode and the inline resistor and just use the lamp (after you make sure it isn't burned out). Wherever you connect the "S" terminal will become the point in the harness where the voltage is regulated to the regulator's setpoint. As NewZed mentions usually you pick the positive battery terminal for this to keep the battery voltage constant regardless of load. You want to run a separate wire for this, so that it isn't affected by the current draw through the main battery cable.
  6. Come to think of it, you should also check to make sure that the warning lamp isn't burned out. A voltmeter should measure close to 0 ohms across it if it's good. I would also advocate for using the "S" input - this is the regulator's "sense" circuit, and it represents the point that the regulator regulates its voltage to. If you leave it as is the alt will work but it will just regulate its voltage directly at the alt output. If you run a wire to the "S" input, the alternator will adjust its output voltage to achieve the proper voltage at whatever point the wire is connected to, which compensates for any voltage drops you might (will) encounter in the harness.
  7. When you say "remove the diode", did you just remove it or did you short across it's terminals? Just removing it will not work. Also try reversing its terminals to see if it was just backwards.
  8. ...Or "skimp" Scrimps are delicious, though.
  9. That's a good point - you should probably ditch the resistor, too. Try shorting across it as a test.
  10. Does the charge warning lamp come on? If not, are you sure the diode isn't backwards? I'm pretty sure you need a voltage at the "L" terminal to excite the field before the alt will start charging - if the diode is backwards then you will get no voltage at that terminal. Maybe check your voltage at "L" to confirm.
  11. Those are going to look great! That's a really tight fit - does that tire really clear the flare on full bump? Also, it sounds like you are already on it, but you're probably not going to want that much camber back there. Make sure that the arms that you get will have enough inboard adjustment to allow you to pull the tire inward to get closer to zero camber - don't know about the two that you are looking at, but they are often more focused on increasing track width than reducing camber (most setups have more room to spare in the wheelwell than you are going to ). You're likely going to want to do the adjustment at the a-arm rather than via a camber plate, since adjusting it at the top of the strut will push the tire even farther outboard.

    FWIW, here's my sub-optimal N42 combustion chamber and one of my pistons: https://photos.app.goo.gl/EvpWubniTt2smYJy2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/MRZ79Ao3knWvuioi2 CR of 7.5:1, and I can run 26psi on 93 octane. What can you see here? Also, a high efficiency modern compressor design will do wonders for keeping your intake air temps down - they are more expensive than the garden variety T3/T4, but worth the money.
  13. Sounds like the head is coming off anyway, but before you do that, do a leakdown test on #2 to narrow down where the compression loss is coming from.
  14. Have you checked to see that you are actually getting vacuum inside the car anywhere? The vacuum solenoids can go bad, or the solenoid might not be getting power.