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TimZ

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TimZ last won the day on December 29 2017

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About TimZ

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    OG Member
  • Birthday 10/26/1961

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    Dearborn, MI

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  1. With 40+ year-old wiring you really can't separate the two. LEDs give off more light with less current, less current means less voltage drop to the LED, so brighter still. Agree with previous posts that adding load resistors is defeating the purpose, and the worst possible way to implement this.
  2. I used this company when I had my 300ZXTT CVs re-done, and was happy with them... http://www.axlesunlimitedinc.com/index.htm
  3. A recurring problem with exhaust manifolds for this head is that as they heat up they grow longitudinally. Since they're held captive on the head, this eventually results in warpage and/or cracked primaries. As HuD 91gt pointed out, this is why the Euro manifolds have them (expected extended high speeds on the Autobahn). For the manifold in this thread, a slip/expansion joint on each of the two runners running longitudinally after the 3-1 collectors and before the wastegate/turbo would help alleviate that. I post about this pretty much every time one of these designs comes up and nobody ever listens 😜
  4. *Cough* Expansion joints *Cough*
  5. TimZ

    L28et powerband issue

    Wait - what? Am I reading correctly that you have a crank pulley with no keyway? Where are you getting your ignition timing from?
  6. TimZ

    Bigger Air Filter = Better?

    same output pressure with less air at the inlet = more work/less efficiency. I'm only making the argument that the issue isn't different for turbo engines.
  7. TimZ

    Bigger Air Filter = Better?

    Ever noticed the difference on a turbo engine's response on a 70 degree day vs a 90 degree day? It's the same effect. Low density air at the compressor inlet causes heat and lag. This is the same argument that people use to justify spending money an a "cold air" intake that draws hot air from under the hood - it's a poor argument there too.
  8. TimZ

    Bigger Air Filter = Better?

    The turbo has the same issue, though. The lower the inlet pressure is for the turbo, the harder it has to work to supply a given amount of air, and the less efficient it will be, so more heat will be created.
  9. LOL! I was wondering what happened to you!
  10. TimZ

    TimZ Dyno Results

    Soylent Green is TONY!!!!1!!1!!!!
  11. Th OP specifically asked about using a BHJ damper with expect use above 7000 rpm and what to use to secure it. I have very specific experience with this and offered my recommendation, based on several conversations with BHJ after having a damper fail at the keyway. He's got a BHJ damper ordered, so he's already in the realm of "over-doing it", and what to do if you're revving past 7000 is not going to be covered in the FSM. Nobody but you said anything about "slathering on" a bunch of red loctite into a bunch of oily threads. I ASSumed that the OP would be smart enough to chase the threads and clean it first, and it was already mentioned that you don't need to use a lot. I guess I'm mostly offended my the insinuation that I'm an internet bullshitter with no experience. Seriously? Completely uncalled for.
  12. I missed this the first time round, but the part you Highlighted here is the preferred solution that BHJ suggested, which I do intend to do next time I have the crank out. I guess they don't have any experience either and probably just rely in internet rumors on how to install their own dampers though. I left that out before just because it is a bit more extreme than most will be willing to do - that and I honestly don't know that it's possible until I get a good look at the location of the oiling passages. In absence of this solution I'll stand by what I said in my original response. If you don't want to use loctite I don't really care - the original stuff works great if you're never going to rev past 6400.
  13. I'm confused - did you think that CM and I weren't talking about real-world experience? WTF Also I was relaying much of what BHJ TOLD ME TO DO when I had one of their dampers fail. You should know by now that I don't just make this shit up.
  14. Thanks CM - you saved me a bunch of typing! Interesting note on the Green (medium strength) Loctite - it is formulated to work similarly to a penetrating oil - it's intended to be usable on already assembled joints. It's now my favorite as it's much more versatile. Also on the Red Loctite - IME it's fine on "graded" (grade 5 or 8.8 or higher) bolts 8mm (5/16") or larger. I agree I wouldn't use it on bolts smaller than that.
  15. As far as I know there is no difference between model years. Thread size and pitch are definitely the same, but I won't swear as to the depth of the hole. I would highly recommend one of the stronger bolt/washer combos, both for the higher torque capacity (at least in the case of the Kameari bolt), and the added thickness of the washer will hold that higher torque. Not sure why rebello would say it wasn't required. As far a worries about the stepped washer, yeah you need to measure things to make sure the washer doesn't ground out to the crank snout. Flipping the washer does alleviate the interference issue, but also gives a bit less thread penetration for the bolt. You can also machine the step down a bit to gain clearance. You also need to measure and make sure that the bolt doesn't bottom out in the hole, btw. Also - ditch the oil slinger. It will only cause problems for you. The stamped steel will deform under use and cause you to lose clamping force. People get way too freaked out by red loctite. It will still come loose - you'll have to block the crank rotation well (have to do this anyway) and it'll fight you a bit but it will come out, especially with a bolt this size. You'll find that it helps to reverse the bolt rotation a half turn every three or four turns on the way out. You don't need to heat it to 550F. At all.
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