Brad-ManQ45

No mere vacuum leak would cause an idle that high. I vote binding somewhere. Disconnect the linkage from the carb. Check to see that the primary throttle plates are almost fully closed. Check to see that the throttle plates move smoothly when operating the throttle mechanism. If all these check ok, note the position of the arm actuating the throttle on the carb, then attach your linkage and see if that arm has moved - you can verify by checking the throttle plates in the primaries too.

And look at the frame rail above it...

Please note that it is not HP per se that gives trannies problems - it's torque. The BW is only good for ~240-270 ft/lbs. An L28ET producing the power you're looking for will more than likely produce the same amount or more of torque...

This could also have something to do with the subframe bushings too. JeffP put in Aluminum bushings, but man that could get rough!

You would also have the problem of getting the return oil into the oil pan (uphill). Minimum a scavenging pump, plus more length for piping adding volume to the pressurized air path from turbo to throttle body.

+1 for .270 - great all 'round caliber...

I will be using 12-1 with the magnets drilled into the back of my crank dampner

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=80933&highlight=clutch

Tokico's made th4e car too low and rode stiffly. Eibachs are close to stock until your swaybars kick in around a corner and noticeably less squat on acceleration. Only drop it ~1".

I have Eibachs on mine and like 'em. I would use a different than stock shock/strut cartridge with them tho'. I am using Illuminas, but HP's or Monroe or KYB could be used. I know someone that has Tokico springs on his and is removing them.

Stock mechanical turbo cam good to ~6.2k. But if you go mechanical you can get a better cam than the stock ones - esp. if you're NA. Couldn't say about the header....

When I was having my house built, I ran Cat5 cable, extra TV outlets and put rockwool in all interior walls between bedrooms and other rooms in the house. You may recognize Rockwool as the brand name of the stuff that is used in Gas Log fireplaces to look like glowing embers. This stuff is a LOT heavier than fiberglass, and VERY fire-resistant. To this day the only sounds coming into the bedrooms are from around/through the doors themselves. I would put a few flourescent fixtures in the garage. My house is on a basement with about 1.5 feet of room between the garage floor and where the main level is, so I was able to run 220 and 120 lines easily to my garage AFTER the house was built. If I were you I would do it BEFORE, but then I don't know what your configuration is.

How high do you want to crank the engine? If over 6.5K then go P90, not the hydraulic. Before anyone lambastes me on this, the stock cam isn't good for close to this, and if you want a cam that IS, then go with the mechanical. Both have the same size combustion chamber, but you will need to get a different exhaust manifold to match the exhaust ports - the manifold from an N42 I believe....

I've always preferred Cibie...

+1... The fvact thaqt you don't have boost on that NA engine means less chance to destroy it while learning to tune!

I was only replying to your misstatement... Yes it is longer and you may need to get a different yoke, but the cost is far less than a new adapter...and you will have a very nice 3.06:1 1st gear to get that SUV rolling...

Dish or no - the pin height will be the same - take a look at the dished pistons - they have a raised edge all the way around. This is actually a rather poor way to dish the piston (cuts down on quench area). You'd be better off getting pistons w/a dish under the combustion chamber rather than the whole top of the piston (minus the rim of course) - take a look at the pics of the combustion chamber and you'll see what I mean.

Big difference living in the industrialized areas of the North versus living in the South... This type of machinery is far less common down here, but a mainstay for manufacturing up North....

The th350 and 700R4 have the same bolt pattern.

I have a fuel rail, injectors, afm and engineroom efi harness - no ecu tho'...

You will spend at least as much on tooling... And I think you are making a wise decision in getting a new one from a quality importer. If you go to one or two yahoo groups for milling and a few other sites, you could probably hook up with people that could evaluate condition, but once again, the pickings are pretty slim, unless you get lucky after someone else wasn't....

You need to get a converter with a stall speed somewhere around 2000 - 2400 rpm at the torque your engine is putting out. Possibly one from a 6 cyl. Chevy. or one with a higher rqated stall speed from a V8 - say 4000 rpm stall. The less torque you have the lower the stall speed. You only have about half the torque of a V8, so you can almost double the needed stall speed for a close approximation. You can check with some of the converter companies for their recommendations.... I personally would think about putting in a 700R4 for the low 1st gear and the overdrive...

There is a Megasquirt forum on this site that should answer all questions....

NickG: Welcome to HybridZ, and thank you for taking the time to post the remedy. If I had been looking I would have suggested the IM as the problem. Anyway thanks again for posting your solution - too few people bother and no-one gets to learn...

I've always read that it is normal for EGT's to be over 1400 degrees F) , and if they aren't that high you're leaving power on the table - running too rich or timing off. 1900_ degrees sounds like a bit much if you're not racing for sure. This is for gasoline - not diesels, which run a lot lower temps. which is why the variable vane turbos don't work very long behind gas engines as they do with diesels.