Brad-ManQ45

It ain't optimal...

OR First On Race Day...

The 1970 LT-1 and LT1 engines have about the same horsepower - 1970 used gross figures. Driveability-wise either of the FI motors will be better.

Actually, w/42mm offset, and a 42mm spacer (for a net 0 offset), his backspacing will be 4.25" on 7.5" wide wheels...You have to include 1/2" for the width of the bead seat that is not included in the width measurement... A 7" wheel actually measures ~8" across...

you could also use the p&h boards that let you run low impedance injectors w/o pwm and resistors...

Neat solution! I built my rotisserie so that I could simply jack the car up off the jackstands with platforms for bottle jacks - a two person job with less equipment... http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=2015&cat=500&ppuser=7953

I believe there are a total of 10 of those connectors on ZXT's...

That looks like a 4 valve engine to me. I'm not up on all the manufacturer's methods of activating valves, but the ZR-1 had only one intake/exhaust opening like this at low speeds...

I can guarantee there is room for the A/C compressor - both IC pipes and the intake air pipe are above the compressor.

I'd drop the initial timing back to 20 degrees like the '81 and '82 turbo cars had and see how much effect it has. The problem with that much extra HC's is that they'll burn a cat up, but then how long do you idle? What is your idle speed set at? Have it set as high as possible and still be within testing specs - obviously you are having a problem at idle but at higher rpms you're fine. What VE settings do you have set up in the idle range: You might want to take a look at what Dave (Cygnusx1) and Randy have done with theirs, along with ignition timing in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99689&page=2

Here is some interesting reading about intercoolers and piping: http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/intecoolersMR.htm

No Ford Flathead??? I'm disappointed.

Major. duplicate the number of spot welds if not more.

Absolutely correct. Some people go so far as to use some welding stick under the cut out to provide more support/stiffness when welding the panels together, but I firmly believe that if one were to remove the rails, one should have at least a roll bar installed. Not a big fan of cages on the street...but then I sit tall and I'd be rapping my head on one every time I took a curve or turn a little too fast....

MaTTSun: I'm sure you're speaking of HC's although you weren't specific... Lean A/F ratios are great if you also don't have a problem with NOX levels (higher combustion temperatures = more NOX) A couple of things that may be of importance to know (and people don't have to search to get the info to help you): Nissan set initial timing at 24 on the 83's so I would imagine there isn't a good reason to change that. If you are too advanced you may be misfiring, thereby causing extra HC's... What size injectors and are they PH or saturated? What are your settings in Megatune for open/shut time and what do you have set up for low battery correction? (this CAN affect injector output) Settings for simultaneous or alternating and number of injections per cycle. On a side note, I always get my car tested with regular gas (only 1/4 tank) and I put a bottle or two of ethanol in it. This serves several purposes: Regular gas burns faster and potentially more completely Ethanol burns cooler than gas so reduces NOX Ethanol burns cleaner Ethanol has its' own oxygen so reduces HC counts by providing more oxygen during the burn process and out the pipe After I pass, I go fill up with ethyl and git on it! Needlelss to say I keep it to low boost with jus thte regular in the tank...

That looks to be a really cheesy intercooler, with the tanks set up that way I doubt you could fit it into the area in front of the radiator. Not only that, the square end tank is a big pressure loss scenario, and the angles of the in/outs is terrible. You would be much better off getting a 20x12/3 with in/outs opposed at the top. As for the air intake, are you using the stock efi or MS or other speed density system? If not stock or 300ZX MAF, then cut a hole in the inner fender and put an air cleaner below the driver's headlight bucket.

I am converting my '83 to an automatic, so I have all parts (bellhousing, Flywheel, bolts, tranny, shifter, master and slave cylinder, hydraulic tubing and plate between engine and tranny)... You will need a clutch tho...

I use brickwall filters on my computer and A/V stuff in addition to UPS's. No MOV's that degrade with each surge... Depending upon the size of your house, I probably wouldn't go much below 8.5KW, and probably higher - if you want a TV or have an extra freezer for instance. Kohler has some software on their site to help you pick it out.

Jon: I'll keep ya'll in mind and look forward to seeing both of you at the March Datsun/Nissan/Infiniti event!

http://www.graytechsoftware.com/garage/tbs_linkage.asp

I can believe that the HF TIG would be much better than their MIG - after all, YOU are still the one controlling the heat, and dipping the rod. It's the feeding mechanism and controls on the MIG that make cheap MIGS something to avoid.... I just may have to get one 'a them there HF TIGS!

I've refurbished and painted some Western Cyclone II wheels (even more turbine-like) and have some Corvette spinners on 'em. I guess I have no taste....

With the 245's, you will have to roll the lips in the rear wheelwells... Thomas @ Z Service Unlimited in the Marietta/Smyrna area of GA had them on his 600 HP ZXT and actually cut the lips away...

'90 - '96 Q45's have viscous R200's - not sure you save much weight over an R230 though.... I think there are a few threads that can answer all your questions about using the V200 setup...

Actually, small turbos benefit from longer core lengths and bigger turbos shorter for the same air flow capacity - more time for heat transfer in the longer tubes for the small turbo - the bigger turbo doesn't heat the air as much for the same flow.