Brad-ManQ45

Pop N Wood: You are indeed correct, the Black and Red wires are the two wires to connect for power, the ground would go to green, as the white wire is the neutral, which is the "return" for the 110/120/125 volt circuit in newer dryers. This also follows the standard for any 110/120/125 volt circuit of one hot wire and a neutral wire. The only difference here of course is the extra hot to provide 220/240/250 volts.

If all you are looking for is 350HP, why limit your off boost response with only 8:1 compression ratio? Assuming you are going to run an intercooler and a decent turbo, you should have no problems with the flat tops and regular head gasket.... Many people are putting turbos on NA engines with large injectors and getting that kind of power and good off boost performance as well. A little more info on your plans may help us help you....

I wwasn't able to get the video to play in either Firefox or IE...

Hemi Cuda wasn't until '70...

Thanks Clifton. This will be a daily driven car, so response is a biggie for me. I haven't done the math, so I don't know what the temperature will be after the intercooler, but the main point was that no more heat would be added while the turbo freewheels, so heat ain't the issue.

What ON3GO said...Although I couldn't take it over 70, handling was great. Too bad engine and transmission were in one case. The Pantera took the term "awkward pedal placement" to new heights -even for an Italian car. I got to drive a Dino a lot more, and loved it! very tossable and the ride was great. A bit underpowered compared to the V8's and 12 bangers tho. I always wanted one....Just like I always wanted a Miura.

Ditto

Thanks 240hoke!

I've driven one, and believe me, your right knee won't last....The gas pedal location is AWFUL. Usedo work at AutoMod Atlanta back in the 70's, and have driven Panteras, Porsches - turbos too, a Lamborghini Muira, Maserati Ghibli's, and a couple Ferarris - Dayton and Dino.

Professional Whats? - - ewwww - never mind...

The air coming out of the intercooler is much cooler than 200 degrees, the pressurized air is being KEPT in the intake system and isn't getting any hotter because the turbo isn't compressing it any more, and I've already stated that once boost hits, the bypass valve would not leak, so you effectively bypass the turbo and get more air at tip-in. This is why Mistubishi and other manufacturers used this type of bypass valve, for off idle throttle response. If you wish to contest either of these points, please do so after doing a search here in this forum for BOV and bypass, reading the threads that pertain specifically to these subjects - there were only 5 or 6 informative ones, so it shouldn't be too much of a burden.

Actually, Chrysler used the VATN turbos on some of their cars in the 80's...the Charger was one.

I believe it's 2 3/8ths...

Old discussion - introducing pressurized air (after the intercooler) back before the turbo will keep it spinning faster than venting to atmosphere. A bypass that leaks a little at idle will allow more air into the engine at "tip-in", and closes up when boost hits. The added air makes for more exhaust flow and quicker spool.

I am going to MS and intercool my '83ZXT and even tho MS is MAP based, I intend to recirulate because of faster spooling/recovery after drop throttle. I want one that will "leak" at idle for quickder acceleration on the street. I know that the DSM BOV does this, but are there any aftermarket units available that do the same thing and capable of holding 20+ lbs of boost? I have looked and can't find any that specifically state this...., TIA, Brad

Definitely nice. One year, I was backed into 3 times by 3 different women twice in my '83ZXT and once in my Q45. I think there is something about reverse gear that disengages their brains....

THe first time I went to that page it had black letters, the next white. Of interest was the information concerning tuble length vs compressor size - small turbos putting out high boost need longer tubes, big turbos need shorter turbes. For an all-out drag car with a huge turbo, the vertifcal orientation and short tubes makes a lot of sense, for those who have street cars with smaller turbos, the longer tube designs with smaller turbos makes sense. Tradeoffs, tradeoffs. I agree that keeping the volume down in the piping is critical for good response. If you only have a 60mm TB, I see no reason to have 3" piping. If the outlet on the turbo is only 2.5", then no need for 3" either. The one area I found a bit lacking on that page did concern the plumbing issue of pipe sizing - both before and after the IC.....

I think that is a good decision, as you have probably already gathered from my response to another of your posts. I don't see why they wouldn't work...

Here's a link to read, I posted this and tried to get some gurus to evaluate the info buyt didn't have any luck... http://www.are.com.au/feat/techtalk/intecoolersMR.php Basically, the first 25% of the intercooler gets the flow due to siphoning action. The fact that the air has to make two 90 degree bends also increases pressure drop.

Excellent new indeed Mike! My opinion of Real Estate agents is that they are interested in turning something over quickly rather than having to work for their commission. That was the clean version of my opinion ... I sold my condo myself, getting more than 1/10th over the previous 5 sold. Everyone listened to their agent moaning and reduced their price. Everyone I knew in the place (almost everyone of the 205 units) bought me a drink - I was soaked for a week!

If indeed the blocks have not been bored, you done GOOD! The large journal should be fine for the 383. The small journal, I would hang onto - they are gonna get pricier and pricier, and for the small amount of money you have in both, I wouldn't consider selling it - think of it as an investment that can only grow. Restoration projects for the cars that came with those NEED that block and they can only get scarcer.....

Pete, sorry the first time wasn't the charm and hope the next time will be. I've lived with my pain for 20 years now and wouldn't wish it on anyone.

Xander, they look nice! Do they have any kind of lumbar support adjustment? If so what kind air bladder or metal plate? Since I was rear-ended in my Conquest, I won't have anything to do with the metal plate type of lumbar supports, which is why I have FloFits w air bladders in my '83ZXT, but I have a '75 project car that will need seats, so i'm investigating all options.

It is my understanding that for EDIS to work you have to have a 36-1 wheel on the crank or flywheel, or a 72-2 on the cam or in the distributor. This is a limitation of the EDIS module itself, looking for x number of signals per revolution. I can't remember the thread, but I am sure it was on the MSEFI forum under MSNS_EDIS... I seem to recall someone stating that the 72-2 wasn't the best way to go in the dizzy, but I don't think there was anything to back that up...but I would imagine it's the same as with any distributor involved - slop in the gears gives less timing accuracy. Of course, by putting the wheel on the cam gear that goes away. The wheel decoder in MSNS_E is for other ignition options, such as wasted spark with two or more VB921's (depending upon # of cylinders) or even true COP. I myself am planning on using 6 VB921's to drive 6 Suzuki GSXR600 coils on my '83ZXT. I've already bought 8 of them for a total of $40 including shipping in two buys off of EBay. Magnets cost ~$16 - the magnets themselves are cheap, the handling charge gets you. VB921's are about $6 a pop. So for ~$100 you have wasted spark COP, and the nice feature of limiting RPM by spark control that you don't have with EDIS. By utilizing the Suzuki coils (those engines spin to 14k rpm), I should have no problem at a lowly 6k max even with wasted spark. This will avoid the issue of spark being a bit weak because of some small bit of energy going to the waste cylinder from the coil pack. Since I am not going to tear into the engine anytime soon (I hope), I am simply going to use a hall sensor and put 12 magnets on the back side of the dampener, one being reversed for a 12-1 wheel and use the wheel decoder in MSNS_Extra. August will be the last time my car needs to be emissions tested here in the Atlanta area, so shortly after that I will be starting on the MS project. I am hoping that the MSNS_E code will be ported to MSII by then, but there seems to be a daughtercard in beta testing now that will allow us to run both MSI and MSII processors and code concurrently - MSI & MSNS_E for spark and MSII for fuel, giving us the higher resolution for fueling that some big injectors need. I am also waiting for the GPIO board so that I can put a 4L60E behind the L28, not wanting to fool with the 700R4/R200/4 and linkage. I won't delay ripping the stock stuff out for this, but with Atlanta traffic the T5 is no longer fun and I want to use this car as a daily driver for gas mileage reasons (currently I am dring a Town Car and the wife a '94 Q45A - she'll start using the TC because it gets better mileage and regular gas to boot). I've been reading and planning for 2 years for this fall's project, and yes, it'll be a bit more expensive, but the benefits will be commensurate, and it will look cool too! Sorry if I've rambled, but there are options other than EDIS, but if you want to use it 36-1 or 72-2 is the only way you can...

I have an '83 ZXT with 3" echaust from the stocfk downpipe back and a T3/T4 - S3 trim .70 AR on tghe cold side and a clipped turbine in the stock housing on the hot. I get full boost in 1st - as a matter of fact, the boost comes on so hard and fast that the engine shuts down unless I leave a little bit of throttle pedal left to feather in as the rpms go up - no pedal to the metal with this setup (this is a 1st and 2nd gear only phenomenon, and the main reason I will be going to MegaSquirt in the near future - Aug. is the last time this car needs emissions testing here in the Atlanta, GA area). I can't wait to get bigger injectors, crank fired ignition and an intercooler on this puppy....