Brad-ManQ45

Quite a few of us have 280ZX's, I have an '83ZXT and a '75 that is in the beginnings of full resto+TT V8 conversion. Ross corrigan had a ZX w/V8 until stolen, so he could be a wealth of knowledge. Do some searches, then ask away. Plenty of people here that like to help and even more that like to learn and discuss. This is the one forum that I get withdrawal symptoms from!

Look up Traction Master Corp. They have springs and bars for Z's. I have them on my '75 - they were much less expensive than MSA or ST pricing - I think I got two bars for ~$179. Springs were ~$150. They are known for Mustang stuff, but carry stuff for Z's and 510's too.

slownrusty: Why don't you tell us how you really feel?

Looking at that, I'm glad I built my rotisserie. If you can avoid vertical welding, life is so much easier. With the rotisserie, I can horizontal weld to my jeart's copntent, all I have to do is set up platforms to be sure I can reach everything. Besides, with the rotisserie on wheels, I can move the car around for sandblasting and welding wherever I want. Forget the hours spent driling and welding, but the ~ $240 in metal was worth it. (Pre-2004 price). I have pics and a thread or two about the rotisserie on this site, if anyone cares...

Don't get me wrong about powder coating - for the caliper, which are unlikely to get beat by road debris, I asay go for it, but for general suspension stuff, I'd rather just paint something that can be touched up if chipped. As for Zero rust being flat, you can always top coat it with their clear...

Let's see, they're both high maintenance, but you can always shut off the Ferrari - I choose the Ferrari. Ferrari wins the ear candy factor. Eye candy-wise, tough choice - but I'm sure parts of her were fake. Overall, Ferrari wins. If I had the money to buy, own and maintain that Ferrari, I could buy all the eye candy I wanted. Remember the 3-F rule. If it Flys, Floats or F*%ks - RENT IT! That said, I've been married for 15 years (2nd time) and forgot the 3-F rule in a moment of weakness, which I haven't regretted.

I guess I'll post Warrens' story for him: He made arrangements to purchase a 280ZXT in the Pacific Northwest. It had checked out as a creampuff, so he flew in to pick it up from Atlanta, GA and the idiot totalled it right in front of him at the airport coming to deliver it! Now I'm not sure about the totalled part, but he definitely couldn't drive it back to GA, and the whole front end was smashed - the idiot was showing off and couldn't stop fast enough and rear-ended the car in front of him. Then the idiot asks if he still wants the car at a discount price! He had to staqy the night and get another one-way ticket back the next day at full price.

My Garage Not much, have to let the better half use one side for the Q (mine but I let her drive it) at night.

Rather than powder coating or POR-15, try using Zero Rust. The thing I don't like about powder coating is that if it chips, it looks bad and rusts. POR-15 has had it's share of detractors, and our own RacerX (professional painter) has stopped using it except where the customer is adamant. He has switched to Zero Rust and loves it. It is single part, but tough. No Iso's like POR-15.

Actually, I have heard that the vette's get a fifth plate or planetary assembly...something like that.

Don't drill holes! the less holes in your car the better. Take the time to beat it back into shape. If you have a welder it would be ok to drill, but I always like the least invasive way of fixing something, even though it may take longer. When there is a right way and a wrong way of doing something, usually the right way takes longer. Words to live by.

THere are already a few threads here and on zcar.com in the tech forums about this, but basically you have to fab your own brackets. MSA sells fiberglass bumpers at a pretty good price.

I know the feeling - like the night before I went to purchase my first motorcycle (Yamaha RD 350 in '75). Every other big purchase after that was no big thing, with the possible exception of the two houses... The reason I went ahead and bought a MIG welder was so I could do the exhaust without having to tow it anywhere, as well as put in floorboards, subframe connectors and body panels.

I haven't seen a definitive drop-in in this range except for the bosch 0 280 150 041 for MB 6.91 - which no-one seems to know anything about getting. Are there any other injectors in this range that require at most an oriing replacement where they fit in the head? Low impedance,of course...

Very nice job! You can and should be proud of it. Apart from roll cage and color, I will be doing the same to my '75.

They are either lazy or stupid or both.

I am very fond of my 3" ultraflow oval muffler - straight thru.

Establish a relationship with a few local junkyards.

Fear is the great tamer of sheeple. I disagree with the statement that a chemical attack would be beyond the capabilities of the terrorists. A very effective gas is simply made by combining ammonia and chlorine. Pretty much like mustard gas.

I lioke the TMC springs on my '75...

Hydraulic cams generally have a gentler ramp starting off the base circle. 110 lobe centers does not for a good turbo cam make - I'd want at least 112 and preferably 114 degree centers. 110 is just too much overlap if you have any lift at all with a hydraulic....

You have an R200.

I use acetone. On mild stell, before the acetone I wipe it with OSPHO.

I may be wrong here (have been before and will be again), but: It seems to me that if you were at 10:1 at full throttle, that you need to adjust your settings 10% LEANER, rather than richer. I started reading all the MS threads because I'm about to get a V3 MS board and MSns_Extra setup and harness from Rodney, and I'll admit that it is as bit overwhelming to start with. If I am wrong, please show me the error of my ways so that I can adjust my thinking and go back and reread the pertinant basics again.