madkaw

Might consider Megasquirt for a programmable ECU . You would get lot's of support here and most seem happy with support from DIY Tune.

Thanks for posting your numbers-sorry if my "where's the beef" comment seemed more than what it was. I was thinking of those old Wendy commercials-I think - where the old lady says that classic line-"where's the beef" Proper tune and proper engine management and you will surely increase those numbers. From what I have read over the years the stock ECU will not handle this engine. The timing numbers don't make sense to me either. Not sure how long you have been around this sight, but you will hear over and over that it's all about tuning. I went to a car show last year where this guy had a 'stroker' also. My L24 was just a few ponies short of his on the dyno-he was pissed. Good luck with your machine and enjoy the wealth of expertise here

Where's the beef?

17x8.5 rotas +4 offset. The fronts are way to close to spring perch- but clear. Rear wheels are fine but tire size should be no more than 225 to be safe. I run 245's all around and rears rub slightly

Tune - tune - tune

you remove the gear... You just want to drive the pump, nothing else.

Your prices seem unrealistic at best. The kind of machining your are talking about-boring over .120 has to be done right. I will be watching to see how this turns out. Aren't you the guy that was having problems getting your SU's to run right?

I am suprised this thread has gone as far as it has. We have seen many threads wanting the big HP# with the magic bullet. To the OP, you need to research for more hours than you can stand and then you will find many have proposed the same quest-with many failures. Has it been done-yes-but by the very few that have invested many hours and many $$$$ Even my goal of 200HP seems daunting. I have earned a great respect for the real TUNERS on this site that have achieved the bigger numbers. This is not a bolt on deal. Drive 150+ HP at the rear wheels and see how much fun that is and you might not be searching for so much more.

Good to see someone else sticking with the little l24. Gollum has some great info. With my mild modifications-stage 2 cam and unshrouding and l28 valves I mustered 155 at the rear with SU's. That's enough for some good fun. Now whether the stock FI will deal with that, I don't know. I would sure love to have MS FI with my motor now.

I wasn't using a Nissan shaft, honestly I don't know where the shaft came from, but it worked perfect.

...or, you use a pump drive shaft without a drive gear and prime the motor with a drill. I was just trying to prove to myself about the cam oil reduntancy, the side effect was my engine was fully primed before I ever started it. It was always a worry for me to start a fresh engine and be able to satisfy the cam manufactuer with the 20 minute/2000 rule. Lets face it, a brand new motor with all kinds of parts that have never worked together before and now i expect to turn the key and MAGIC happens on the first revolution. I don't think so. Then there's the Schneider Cam issue-or at least the one that has been alluded too many times on this site. It doesn't have the proper metallurgy because it's not a nissan core and they will fail. And any failure reported by someone on this site has been because of poor metallurgy of these cams(schneider) I have 10k miles atleast on my cam now(Schneider) and the lobes look perfectly poilshed. What I know I have done right is primed the motor, have proper valve lash, and used ZDDP. The one thing I DIDN'T do right was the 20/2000 rule. I had issues and the motor probably ran 5 minutes the first time before I had to shut it down-can't remember why. But I do remember thinking that I fu@ked up and I have ruined the cam.

To answer Clarkspeed; to the best of my knowledge -YES. When I took my engine to the builder, I also handed him the "how to Modify' book , which i believe mentioned that little trick of enlarging the orifice. I will also add that i bought the so called "turbo oil pump' when i did that experiment. Everything I tried( pump springs), failed to get oil to reach the lash pads from the spray bar.

I don't know if this has anything to do with this situation or not, but I did an extensive experiment with the "dual" lubrication method for the cam. I was driving my oil pump with a heavy duty drill and actually watched the results of the internally oiled cam and the spray bar combo. The oil from the spray bar didn't even reach the cam followers, and this was with a heavy duty pump with heavier pump spring. There was still decent pressure coming out of the cam holes, I believe enough to lubricate the cam, but the spray bar was doing no good. To me, it was just more things to go wrong and i eliminated the spray bar. I think the internally oiled cam is WAY more than enough lubrication for the cam-especiallly if you see how it sprays out those holes. There is a thread on Classic Z somewhere that i started, but I'm to lazy to look it up. Hope you find your issue, I have enjoyed watching your build

Flow issues??

Throwing this out there knowing my chance are slim. I have 8.5 X17 +4 offset Hyper Black Rotas. I'd like to go staggered, so I'm hoping someone else wants the same and we can trade out a set of 8.5's for 9.5's. Or will buy a set of 17x9.5 Rota's e-mail me s_finnerty1018@comcast.net

You might try Classic Z also. I think there is members there from your area. I work in ST.Louis sometimes and could help you out, but it will be a few weeks before I am in that area. I usually stay in Collinsville when I am there.

It seems that a hard pull in 5th would be asking a lot from your Mikuni's with a big cam. You are pretty low in the rpm band at 65 in 5th. Adding size to the pumps would make it worse I believe. If anything , maybe a change in the position of the acc. rod to bring things in sooner to get rid of the dead spot, but not sure if it will help you with the 5th gear issue. It seems that your build is to bring in power way above 3000rpm and you are dumping a lot of fuel for the engine to handle below that threshhold. I have read of other builds similiar to yours and 47 pumps seem big for most. I see the same action with the AFRs when hard tip-in at lower rpm. The AFRs dip quite low waiting for the engine to get in the range to burn off all that fuel. I do have more tuning to do, so I might be talking out my a$$, but this is what I have experienced. I wouldn't get hung up trying to tune out a hard tip-in issue in 5th-will you really need that?I would be more concerned with wide open AFR's through the power band.

Juan, When I get back from spring break I will see what my friend has. He has to 78's sitting in the back yard that he can cut up. That will a hard part to fabricate.

The view is outstanding- especially the drivers side. The rectanglular shape makes for a wide angle on stuff behind you. They stick out almost 2" further than the Californias.

Appreciate the opinion. I know they aren't as 'graceful' as the california's. I might still try a pair of the baby turbos. For now, i'm going to let them grow on me.

Sorry, I meant to add a link and I can't edit my own post. I can put larger pics over there http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/48901-new-look-flares-mirrors.html

Installed some Vitalonies today-see what you think. The mirrors are bigger and more "in your face" attitude, but I like them. They are very useful as mirrors, not like my californias I had they before. Better quality then anything I have had before. lot's of adjustement, and I believe they will stay in adjustment all the time. Mirrors are taller , so line of sight is eye level with the driver.

It's hard to picture what you are saying-wish i could see how it fits together. I might still want the aluminum ring, but unpolished-but I will wait to see your offerings!!

A couple of questions; will we beable to purchase the rings(bucks) unfinished- for those of use that would want to paint them? I have never seen a real set in person but always wondered if there was any sealing aspect to the covers. Another words is there a way the covers seal to the headlight bucket to keep moisture out?

I'll add that the pipe ( mild steel) should be degreased before welding. It took me a while to figure out that the small amount of oil residue on the inside of the pipe was messing with my welds