madkaw

John, is your statement based on too much cam and compression to make even a low boost turbo set-up-just curious?

Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I might have a local connection, but I will let you know shortly. Again-thanks

It will be hard to build an engine with No Regrets. All of us are tinkerers, and are wanting to try something different. I sold off a low mileage turbo motor and now wish i kept it. I did build a strong platform to build on, so I can tweak to my hearts desire. No matter what block you use, it will take a lot of time and tune to see it's potential. Though my 2.4 is mild compared to a lot of these engines on this site- the visceral experience of sound and fun driving of this car keeps me engaged. Start mild then go wild with upgrades. I'm starting with SUs then moving on to Mikunis then maybe a bigger cam or turbo with mild boost and megasquirt.

I need a valve cover to cut up! So condition isn't much of an issue- I want to get away cheap here, so something close to Indiana for cheap shipping.

If anyone wonders why I picked the exhaust forum, it's because I had posted before about my dual exhausts on my L24, but never had really posted a good video of the sound. I had comments that the exhaust would not sound right on an inline motor, but I must disagree. I think it's a great compromise between the beefy sound of a v8 motor and the smoothness of the inline6. Does it do anything for my performance-don't know honestly, but I believe the SU's are somewhat of a restriction for this good breathing exhaust. The Mikunis are waiting for the airbox to be finished and they go on. I truly believe the Mikunis will wake this motor up combined with this exhaust. Please ignore the 3rd gear grind! Also ignore the geek driving this cool car!

Life is good-- a day -off and a cruise in the Z Turn it up!

watching this thread in hopes of answers for my vibration at 100+mph. don,t mean to highjack here, but would a failing tranny mount cause this also? I can under the car and push up on the mount and get it to move upward a good half inch with effort. Hope this question ties in with this thread?

There was a thread which i posed the same question-except it involved a Mikuni manifold. The general consensus was to leave it alone because there is a reason for the step-as you have stated. Unless your are building a race motor, I would leave the step there---IMHO

The ACC valve is right on top of the intake. In the picture below it is the tallest diaphram in the pic with the vacuum plug on it. You need to have that and a good working VCM( sits under the mass air sensor)

Are you getting any closer to another run of axles? About ready to throw my hat in the ring!

The 280zxt starts a new life with a new owner--The Z Bar So I have posted here that I bought my daughter a 1981 280zxt a couple of years ago. It turned out to be a fun car for here for a couple of years at college-even amongst all the fixes it endured. Her traveling became too far and often for the car to be her daily driver so we decided to part with it. She didn't mind too much since her replacement is a 2007 WRX, but it didn't compare to the fun of the T-top Z. I put the car on craigslist and had to endure the various low ballers and no shows. Then some guy says he wants to buy it and wanted to drive up from Louisville(about 2 hours) to come get it. He had been looking for that specific year,color. He told me he owned a bar in Louisville(ZANZABAR) and he would bring me a shirt---sure, I'll believe you when i see you. Anyway, he showed and loved the car, and brought me a shirt and drove off to Louisville. I'm still not buying the bar owner bit---but his cash spent just like money! He invited the family down for lunch if we were in the area. Just so happens my son was swimming in at a swim meet at Lakeside in Louisville, so we stopped in. Well the picture tells it all and the Z bar is definetly worth checking out if your in the area--very cool.

Damn,don't know how you do anything in that kind of pain. Glad to see you got KTM's stuff, I imagine it's nice, but I thought that block was going to be for a turbo? I have been following the thread because I still mess with the L24 block. Not many folks still trying to tweek power out of them, they just move on to bigger and better things---but this is HybridZ!! It's funny you mention the ticking, because I am dealing with the same thing. It almost sounds like an exhaust leak and my clearances are also to spec. For now i just drive it!

any updates on the L24 build?

Got it! I was trying to over complicate things by thinking hard lines from the log to the manifold. Thanks for the input guys.

Thanks for the tip Rossman, but not sure how to connect that to each individual runner. I just read your build thread and I know this is log is a simple project for you, but I'm not quite as savvy when it comes to this machine stuff. By the way, love your build and would like to go your same route some day, but for now -baby steps! Also love the avatar. I was showing my 14 year old son you tube videos of Ultraman the other day and he was cracking up.

that would be great-thanks

Here is a few more pics showing all the work-- which kind of tells the story. Welded and reinforced the diff brackets. Welded a stud on to the control arm pivot bolts. Slotted the holes on the diff brackets to allow for side to side movement. Attached control arms with adjustable rod ends.

Getting ready to mount my Mikuni triples with the shorty manifold. My manifold is tapped on each runner and I want to take advantage of that and create a log for a vacuum signal. I would like to make something that would double as a booster signal and an MAP signal. I have read that it needs to be removable in order to properly sync triple carbs. I'm not even sure where to start on this project and I am not having much luck searching this. Anyone done this and can I steal some ideas.

I would try and pick-up an earlier e-88 head if you can find one cheap and redo it. The later e-88 chamber design is not that great and takes a lot of work to perform.

I will add that a member on CZCC (steve911tt) is dealing with issues with detonation using the later e-88 head. He is limited to 30 degrees total advance. I know it's not what you want to hear , but information is always good. Of course everyones set-up is a bit different, but I think the chamber for the late 88's need the most work.

It was not the option I wanted to attempt, but I was looking for a quick cheap option to reduce tire rub on the rear tires inside the wheel well. Running 245's on a 8.5x17 with +4 offset put me on the raggged edge of clearing. In hard cornering and bottoming out the tires rubbed pretty badly---after almost eliminating the fender lip. When i realized it was no longer the fender lip, but rather the inside of the wheel well I knoew I had to tilt the top of the tire in. I couldn't find much info on this searching as far as what camber change i could expect from doing this. So I needed a alignmemnt anyway so why not slot the strut holes a bit and see what the numbers look like. I only slotted about a 1/4" to 3/8" out of the holes and it actually made a significant change in the rubbing. When had it checked out at the alignment shop I found out that I was only running 3/4 degree of negative camber That leaves pleanty of room for some more tweeking and hopefully eliminating the RUB and improving handling at the same time!!! I also found out that my adjustable rear control arm/diff brace worked great too. When I saw the tech back the car into the alignmemnt spot I was expecting him to come out and ask me about my set-up---if there was changes to be made. Instead he pulled the car around and said your all done! I asked how the rear alignmemnt was and he told me the driver's rear toe was out 3/4 of a degree, but he adjusted it to 0. He then said that my adjustable bar worked out great. Thanks Jon Morteson for the idea!

I don't have any ideas for you, but I thought it would be an oppurtune time to throw in a picture of my EARLY E-88 compared to your late E-88. It's just a good chance to show the difference in design between the e-88s with similiar work done,i.e biggger valves and such, 'As you can see the shelf is not there at 12 oclock. This head was only shaved .010 My chambers are around 39cc, but compression reduced with valve reliefs on the bores. So far no detonation problems with an estimated 10 to 1 and a stage 2

Bo, good luck with your new venture. You do nice work and are very thorough and it should turn out nice. Someday I might fall to the dark side, but still learning and playing with the L6. Wish i had money when your nice parts came up for sale.

Your wipe pattern doesn't look too bad to me, but I'm not a cam expert by a long shot. Here is a snipet from a great article by Racer Brown cams regarding this contact area. One highly important item may contribute some conflict of interest at this point: The actual area, and location of the area, of the rocker arm pad contacted by the cam lobe, hereafter referred to as "rocker pad contact patch." Some cam lobe profiles do not allow much if any latitude here. With these engines it is AB-SO-LUTE-LY ESSENTIAL that the cam lobe does NOT extend beyond either end of the rocker pad. For the most part, this occurs on strictly race engines, but if the cam lobe profile is sufficiently desirable, the rocker arm position must be adjusted at the pivot end so that the cam lobe does not override either end of the rocker pad. If, by mischance, miscalculation, or simply the wrong cam lobe profile, an override condition exists at either or both ends of the rocker pad, it spells instant death to the cam lobes and the rocker pads. If the cam lobe is a tight squeeze on the rocker pad, then the first order of business is to make certain that the rocker pad contact patch is as correct as it can be, and rocker arm geometry must be forced to a secondary position. Ideally, the rocker pad contact patch should be centred on the rocker pad. Assume that the opening flank of the cam lobe comes within 1/32-inch of one end of the pad and that the closing flank of the cam lobe comes within 3/32-inch of the other end of the pad. This is wrong. The rocker arm position must be raised at the pivot end of the rocker so that the contact patch is equalised at 1/16-inch from each end of the rocker pad. There is a good visual method of checking and measuring the rocker arm contact patch, and there is also a way to "cheat" a bit to gain a higher effective rocker arm ratio in some cases…but that comes later.

I thought 4psi was almost too much pressure for Mikunis? Are you running vacuum advance, if not, I would think you could tweak that timing up a bit. There is something a miss to get that bad of MPG-IMHO