Josh280z

I've owned my 280zx since 2010. I made it driveable and it worked for a time. However, the engine has lost compression and right now it is completely kaput! It's time for a refresh. Here's a photo of my air-ride suspension for your entertainment.

Dapper Lighting makes a great light; they look classic, provide modern lighting and unfortunately the price reflects. I'd buy them again for my 280zx any day.

Looks like it would run into the steering or is the steering shaft what you modeled?

What mounts did you use to put the sr20 in your zx?

Asking for the OP, which guy? There is no contact info.

I would be a dick, but not worth it. Sorry, I don't have one.

Here read this! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/66997-felpro-head-gasket-question/?p=629313&hl=head%20cooling%20felpro&fromsearch=1&do=findComment&comment=629313

Run 'em

Here's an interesting article I remember reading. It may help you. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/72851-small-port-heads/

I was hesitant to post that because I thought maybe it was you. Sorry. Wish I could be of more help.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55619-hitachi-cst-2000zd-schematic-unobtanium I see this guy has an 8 track player as well...maybe contact him?

Stock system uses batch fire.

Can you weld the bungs on the runners and cut around? I would think that wouldn't be too hard.... Or you could always use the stock flange with injector bungs already in place. Up to you, you are the one fabricating, it's your money.

My thought on the subject(maybe wrong) if you are using the stock efi it won't matter too much because the stock efi runs the injectors in batch. However, if you are using a standalone you may have to get them to open on earlier as kid has mentioned. As far the plate goes I believe the stock flange is something like 10mm. So, it wouldn't be that much further away than if you were to leave it stock, however the 1/2in is still bigger than the stock flange. Why not places the holes on the flange and eliminate some headache or heartache. Also you have to make the intake flange thickness match the exhaust flange thickness otherwise you will get leaks(vacuum, exhaust or both). Hope this helps. I've maybe not ripped apart as many as some people here, though I've read enough and done enough stupid things to not listen to people who have been there before me.

What information were you looking for?

That's a pretty good area if I'm remembering correctly. I used to run my 280zx everywhere in Tulsa. No AC and the windows down, the heat from the exhaust rising up. Man, good times. Anyways, I hope you find a good Z to own. If you could always try heading out to cali to get a nice one. My 280zx needs major surgery(ie rust replacement) before it will be good again.

Not that I have a car for sale. Where in Tulsa are you located? I used to live there.

Would love to seem some of the original drawings/notes made. Will you be uploading those?

You forgot exhaust, spare money for odds and ends, differential(for when your current one blows, tires, etc... the list goes on and on....

I worked with acrylic a lot this past year... every time I had to clean it, I used rubbing alcohol. No buffing required.

Get a multimeter, continuity tester, the FSM and some time.

This is a cool project. I want one! Please keep us updated, i look forward to more of this build. What are your plans for the car? Are you going to do any type of autocross?

Oh snap, now the fun begins!!! Go megasquirt! Where did you purchase this project from?

I broke my egr tube, was wondering if anyone had one lying around from an s130. And if so how much? I have cash in hand!

I like firefox personally! It's less resource hungry.