MONGO510

Hmm. I thought the net went over the window. Whats up? Mongo

Check for play between the shock and the strut tube. The nut holding the shock in could be loose or the shock toast! Mongo

It should be a fun ride! What trany you going to run? Mongo ]

It's Alive!!!! We started the engine and it sounds like it is going to be a runner!! Specs are: 400 block forged 327 crank H-beam rods Forged SRP pistons Alum. big valve heads Howards solid roller cam and lifters 1.6 Roller rockers stud girdle Gear drive EDIS Ignition/ Megajolt controller I am Stoked!!! see it here..

IMO they are useless without a complete redesign of the mounts. Also, I think you will find that the bar itself is not stiff enough to be effective. FWIW Mongo

Its been a while since I did an update, so here are some pics of what's been happening. 1. EDIS ignition is up and ready to go. 2. Radiator, Fan, Shroud, and Expansion tank are installed. 3. Fuel tank is installed. 4. rear floor sheetmetal is installed. 5. Wiring is almost done. 6. Install inspection plates on transmission tunnel. 7. Install battery box in pass. side storage compartment. 8. Reposition original fuel pump mount with new pump installed. 9. Fabricate exhaust crossover section. Mongo

Whoa! You had to grind the lock nuts to adjust the valves? You have other, possibly very serious problems with that head. Post a pic of your valve train so we can take a look at it, or get it to a mechanic you trust to look at. Mongo .

You said this was a U20 engine. The U20 engine was installed in the Datsun 2000 Roadster and had a 5Spd trans behind it. The Roadster 5 Spd was notorious for getting jammed in to 2 gears at once when it was speed shifted. Once it was locked up the only way to free it was to take the trany apart and replace the spring lock pins in the shift rails. Don't ask how I know! LOL This may be your problem. See if the engine will spin with the clutch pushed in. If it will you found your problem! Mongo

I was talking nto a fellow this weekend that knows the owner of the "White Zombie", It now has an experiental battery pack on loan from the Military which is even lighter and is giving him close to 900HP!! Huge , instantaneous Torque. This car is going to stun the drag racing world!! Mongo

Probably not! how long does it run? Does it restart? How long before it will run again? What do you do to make it restart? Sounds like it is going very lean. Check electrical connections. Sounds like something has high resistance, is getting hot, and losing its connection. Check main harness connections under dash, fuel pump connections. Mongo

1. The canister is a vacuum reservoir for the heater/AC controls 2. There was a nipple/vent on your Dashpot. May work fine without it. 3. The bullet connector goes to your BCDD(Boost Control Deceleration Device), it is disconnected, may be bad. 4. Can't remember. Mongo

Looks good but........ There is very little surface area, guaranteed to be restrictive! The restriction may cause extreme richness at high throttle positions, be careful you don't wash down the cylinders with raw fuel. Is there a flame arrester/ or screen on the inside? A back fire or cough may cause ingestion of a piece of foam, Not good. FWIW Mongo

If I recall correctly, it should work just fine. Mongo

Thanks for the input fella's it is appreciated! Mongo(John)

Thanks for replies. I am aware of what the M-bar does, I was wondering if there is a benefit to the Axle joints if the bar stiffness was doubled. I recall seeing a twisted up M-bar on this site somewhere. I thought that under load there would be some distortion of the bar, possibly causing some axle joint phasing errors and vibrations. Doubling would pretty much eliminate these potentials. Doubling can be accomplished without any welding by just stacking the 2 bars. The second bar would have the eyes cut off and be attached with clamps at the ends like a leaf spring is held together. I also saw some pics of cracked and bent verticle supports that I would like to strengthen. If I recall the cracks werte at the root of the bend in the support. I thought doubling may be a easy way to help reinforce the plates. I have got the plates and a spare M-bar to use if I did this. I also have it torn down for the install of a RT Diff. mount at this time. Thoughts? Mongo

Anyone? Beuller? Mongo

Hey fellows, I was installing an RT Diff. mount and got to wondering about any advantages to doubling the mustache bar and the rear control arm support plates. Doubling the M-bar would possibly aid in U-joint life by reducing twist under extreme load and doubling the plates would help to stiffin the rear suspension under extreme side loading. So what do you all think?

Thanks for the input. Parts from Digikey are on the way!! John

If you find that one of the valves is very tight, then check the retainer for wear. When the retainer is failing it will be noisy and the clearance will be tight at the same time. The method for checking a bad retainer is to remove the lash pad and inspect the bottom of it. The only surface that should be shiny from wear is the center depressed section. If the outer ring section is shiny then you have a bad retainer and it and the keepers should be replaced. Mongo

Check to see if you have excessive slack in the linkage. You may have to change the lever arm lengths at the carb or at the linkage to increase the travel of the cable. Mongo

Just looking at the TTT part I would have to say that I would not trust it. It looks a little flimsy to me. I do tend to overbuild parts I fabricate, but they never fail me. It is probably my personal paranoia. FWIW Mongo

Looks like Big Phil to me! Big Phil for prez.!!! mongo

Cool,I will check into it! Mongo

I have figured out all the previous questions but have another. Will the late 260 tach work with megajolt? What do I need to do to make it work? Thanks for any info. Mongo

Interesting thread.